high ects?

[Enki]

When you let off, are you pressing the clutch too?

I ask because if you are, basically what you're doing is building up a lot of heat then making the water pump slow way down. On my logging above, I don't hit the clutch after letting off for the first run, but do for the second gear run (which seems to match what you're saying).

[Sacrilicious]

are you running pure water in there, philly, because pure water boils over 212F...

that would fuck up your coolant system pretty fast, since it's not made to deal with that much pressure.

[phillyb]

i push the clutch in to change gears, but i don't stay in neutral.

[phillyb]

Originally Posted by Sacrilicious are you running pure water in there, philly, because pure water boils over 212F... that would fuck up your coolant system pretty fast, since it's not made to deal with that much pressure.

yeah, that's a good point. i know you mentioned that earlier in the thread. i'll add some water wetter and see where that takes me.

[Enki]

I meant for slowing down. If you're idling the engine when slowing down after a pull, the amount of water flow is reduced compared to 5,000 RPM.

[Sacrilicious]

Originally Posted by phillyb yeah, that's a good point. i know you mentioned that earlier in the thread. i'll add some water wetter and see where that takes me.

does water wetter actually increase the boiling temp of water? i didn't realize it did. if not, then just toss some coolant in there and see if that makes a difference.

unless something is wrong (leaks or boiling), your 100% water should be working better than our stock 50/50 mix, because water conducts heat way better than coolant...it just happens to have the added side effect of boiling off if it gets too hot...=/

[phillyb]

ming, i don't actually know if it raises the boiling point.

[Sacrilicious]

ouch...ya, just pour in some coolant and call it a day...=d

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by Sacrilicious =d

b=

[skeeter149]

* Unique agent for cooling systems that doubles the wetting ability of water
* Rust and corrosion protection allows for use of straight water in racing or reduced antifreeze levels in warm climates
* Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
* May allow more spark advance for increase power and efficiency
* Use one bottle for most passenger cars and light trucks, treats 3 to 5 gallons or 13.2 to 15.9 liters. Vehicles with larger cooling systems should use two bottles. Small cooling systems should use 1oz (3 to 4 capfuls) per quart
* Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOLTM and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
* Satisfies ASTM D2570 and ASTM D1384 corrosion tests for glycol-based antifreezes

[phillyb]

aight...still have a fucking leak even after replacing the hoses.
so i've been replenishing the system with coolant, and gonna see where that takes me.
this doesn't look fucking promising.

[skeeter149]

fuck philly hope you get this thing settled

A. cheap
B. soon
C. not a lot of headaches

[MOVOVR]

I just started thinking about my coolant as sitting in traffic this past weekend I got up to 217. It drops down to 180-187 cruising, 190 at WOT always. I've never seen it get that high before so I got a little freaked out...

[AndyMS3]

Where is the leak coming from now? Same spot?

[phillyb]

that is normal.
i went out to my car this morning, coolant all over the engine.
coolant under the car.
FML

Originally Posted by AndyMS3 Where is the leak coming from now? Same spot?

yes. even after replacing hoses.

[AndyMS3]

Are you sure the leak isn't coming from somewhere else but just dripping down the hose?

[phillyb]

Originally Posted by AndyMS3 Are you sure the leak isn't coming from somewhere else but just dripping down the hose?

no, and at this point, i'm almost afraid of this.
but i don't see any higher points where there is moisture.

[AndyMS3]

Originally Posted by phillyb no, and at this point, i'm almost afraid of this. but i don't see any higher points where there is moisture.

Balls. Well you may have to get under the car while it's idling (careful not to pull any FreeFlyFails here) and watch for leaks, drips, etc.

A leak down test may help diagnose any issues as well.

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by MOVOVR I just started thinking about my coolant as sitting in traffic this past weekend I got up to 217. It drops down to 180-187 cruising, 190 at WOT always. I've never seen it get that high before so I got a little freaked out...

Welcome to the world of fmic's.

Your fine, and the fans will kick on, but i believe its right around 220. You can also kick on your AC and that'll turn the fans one and bring your temps down quite a bit. Also a good trick at the 1/4 track. I'll always rock the AC while i'm on deck.

[phillyb]

idk wtf is going on.
fuck filling up the car with coolant.
it just leaks it.
reservoir is completely empty. obv still coolant in the system, but it ain't in the reservoir.
temps haven't gone above 190 in the past 2 days.
i run on as little coolant as possible apparently.
my car rejects coolant.
fuck coolant.

[felt]

Take it to a shop and see if they can figure out why your coolant is going bye bye.

I'm sure there are alot of messican shops that can diagnose.

[djuosnteisn]

Mystery coolant loss is not good.

[shorts465]

Originally Posted by Sacrilicious are you running pure water in there, philly, because pure water boils over 212F...

Water should boil at 212F at sea level pressure. Increase the pressure and the temperature where you get air bubbles in the water itself increases. I don't know that much about our cars coolant system, but I bet it pressurizes itself as it warms up it increase the boiling point. My understanding is that the coolant's primary job is to decrease the freezing point and to prevent metal corrosion. Using pure water would increase the freezing point up to 32f (which might not be a problem in a warm climate) and increase the efficiency of the cooling system in general but I bet there is going to be corrosion in the system somewhere if used all the time. This is what I know from working on an older mustang so my ideas might to moot. A 95 mustang doesn't use the same coolant that our cars do.

[ToledoSpeed3]

Cooling system is 21 psi I believe (going from memory of what it says on the coolant overflow cap), so it would take ~230F to boil IF the system is without any leaks. Even in hotter climates, it's best to at least run some coolant to raise the boiling point, provide lubrication, and to prevent corroision. Maybe go with 75/25 or 80/20 water/coolant if you want better cooling properties in a non-freezing climate.

[phillyb]

fuck this shit.
there has to be more pressure building up inside my cooling system.
one of my fucking hoses popped off on saturday. water/coolant all over my engine bay.
put the shit back on, and it's fine now, but still leaking.
what could cause more pressure in the system?
radiator?
blockages?
why are there blockages?
someone please help.

[danesti]

all water=low boiling point.
low boiling point= a lot of pressure.


dont know. insurance fraud ftw.

[phillyb]

yeah, i feel you on the water boiling issue.
i've started replacing the water with coolant, and the shit still popped off. this was with mostly coolant, not water. temps also haven't been rising, but the pressure is still causing a leak.

[danesti]

have you pressure tested the cooling system?
go rent one of those tools from vatozone that screws on the radiator cap.

should be free once you return said tool

[phillyb]

i have not.
thank you dane.

[danesti]

to be honest i have only done that shit once.. it was a lab procedure in my auto class a few years ago. i forgot how to do it. think it was easy though.

[phillyb]

k

[mazdaspeed6tony]

distilled water btw

if you run 100% distilled water it wont ruin anything. regular water has all the shit in it that causes corrosion. and it wont boil if you dont have leaks in the system so once the leak is fixed dont worry about shit boiling. it pressurizes itself as it gets warmer and pressure and the boiling point of a liquid go together. HVAC certification FTW!

[phillyb]

yes, it was distilled water.

[Doc]

Philly.. take your car to a shop..

while your waiting... get a dog up ya.

[ToledoSpeed3]

Originally Posted by mazdaspeed6tony distilled water btw if you run 100% distilled water it wont ruin anything. regular water has all the shit in it that causes corrosion. and it wont boil if you dont have leaks in the system so once the leak is fixed dont worry about shit boiling. it pressurizes itself as it gets warmer and pressure and the boiling point of a liquid go together. HVAC certification FTW!

Agreed, distilled water won't cause corrosion like tap water, but there is still the surface tension of a coolant to consider. If you run just distilled, I would definitely use water wetter with it since it will reduce the surface tension and also provide a little lubricant for the water pump seals. To explain further, there are areas in the water passages in the engine that are hotter than others, like around the exhaust valves. When water flows through these hot spots, it can be quickly heated to the boiling point and water vapor is formed (bubbles). Reducing surface tension is important as we need water to flow back into this hot spot minimizing the vapor area. The higher surface tension of the coolant, the more resistance there is until the bubble is large enough and gains enough energy to break away from the surface. Reducing surface tension in coolant is imporant. Gycols and water wetter can do this for you.

Obviously if there is a leak, you have bigger problems...

[phillyb]

head gasket getting replaced. hahahah
fml

[phillyb]

pics. thanks skt.

[djuosnteisn]

That head has so much room for improvement IMO. If i get the wrench bug again (or when, more likely), i'm knife edging the fuck out of those dividers, and opening up the IM side like silverdemon.

[danesti]

philly whos doing your head gasket?

[phillyb]

family automotive in canoga park