HKS BOV VTA
 

Ok so I had my HKS BOV set to vta and well it turns out my spring was too tight so I made it looser but now it is too loose and I am throwing a CIL but I have heard that having it set to vta is not good on the speed3's so can someone please explain to me why this is? or where I can get a better spring for my bov so that I can run it VTA without any problems because corksport (where i purchased it from0 and HKS themselves are not helping me out one bit or getting back to me when I contact them :wtf1:. I would appreciate the help.

Confused why you havent been stalling. Your fuel trims are probably all messed up too. Better off just recirculating like supposed too. If you read the sticky on how BPVs effect LTFTs and STFTs then you will understand. SEARCH and DONATE. In your in for the noise go join m247.

I want cake...

http://www.laaloosh.com/wp-content/u...elvet-cake.jpg

Yea Ive noticed fuck the noise its not worth sacrificing power for noise im just going to go back to recirculated

Now donate

You're not sacrificing any power running it recirculated. Also, I was unaware the HKS has an adjustable spring. Please explain.


Tapawhat?

Maybe hes just confused. Some hks's have the knob on the back for adjusting the pressure threshold.

BPV is loud enough with an SRI... especially the mario coin

Theirs a nob on the back??? lol and I meant by spring because their is a spring inside the bov and depending on how tight/loose it is determines the amount of air bieng released and how it is released you get me now? It is wierd to explain lol

There is no knob. Thing with the SSQV is that it is basically maintenance free. I've tried opening it up, thing is built like a brick shit house.

There are 2 valves within the HKS, one for low loads (primary valve) and one secondary (for higher loads). Where under part throttle (driving normally) the primary valve releases the air. Whereas going like a bat outta hell, the secondary valve opens to release the pressure.

There is no way to adjust it, from what I know. You're running like shit because the computer "thinks" it's getting the air, thus it releases more gas. But since you're VTA, it's just dumping gas, and without the extra air present, it (the air) isn't getting burned up (aka - combusted).

Grab the specified recirculation hose (stock won't work) and hook that shit up. Part # 71002-AZ001

You could also use some of this.

http://www.aqmotorsports.com/images/ssqv3_diagram.jpg

Let me know if I am wrong, but if thats not an adjustment screw on the back then hat is it.
http://www.streetunit.com/v/vspfiles...1-SA001X-2.jpg

knock off? my V1 doesnt have an an adjustment knob

Nor does my V3.


Tapawhat?

To my knowledge the HKS SSQV is self adjusting... never seen an adjustment on any hks valve.

google said:

"A leak in a SSQV or an I/C pipe will limit the amount of boost pressure and should have nothing to do with the engine RPM level. If the valve is leaking, adjust the bolt on the back of the valve (1/8 of a turn at a time) clockwise and check that the o-ring is seated properly and c-clip is has the flat side facing down."

guess this is for v1? :shrug:

HKS BOV link to the page

Ha $449!


Tapawhat?

go figure... i have a non adjustable v1

just sayinn

EDIT: oh snap...the v1 does come in both adjustable and non-adjustable.

back to the matter at hand: no matter how you adjust the spring in VTA, you will always have issues with smoothness and probably fuel trims as well. people who swear that their car runs great on VTA just haven't tried recirc in a while. as soon as the fuel trims relearn, you'll notice that your car gets a lot smoother between shifts with recirc.

Did you cap off to where the recirc tube goes on the inlet? That could be your problem.

VTA is win

OP: Let us clue you in this time and then fucking donate, O.K.? VTA on a MAF sensor conrolled ECU is fail. Think about it. The MAF sensor measures the density, temp, etc of the air coming across it from the intake. It then takes this data and processes it so that it calculates the exact amount of fuel to direct inject into the cylinders under high pressure. When you vent to air from your BOV you are farting ALREADY METERED AIR out of the engine. The fuel has been shot into each cylinder based on the fucking air it thinks it is getting but which you farted away! So it runs rich and the ECU tries to compensate and yo-yo's trying to chase your constant air farting of the air it wants and needs.

Other than that, shit, just fart away and screw up your air to fuel ratios, long term fuel trims and have a poorly running engine.

And donate so this site can stay up and running and you can get access to a lot of useful info and not get dicked by us for being a brownie noob.

the adjustment was removed because people kept fubaring it up. there is a letter from hks about onm the web somewhere.