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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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07-14-2011, 02:48 PM
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(Thread Starter) |   Not Ranked : 0 score  How Would You Fix This FAIL? Need help with DP install Short Version I have a leaky DP due to the fact I broke a bolt off in my turbo.... with an impact gun BTW. It is the most accessable stud/bolt on the turbo, but it is REALLY in there, and I'm gonna have to tap the hole and find a stud to fit. Apparently taking the turbo on/off is a huge PITA. I researched each part of the shop manual pertaining to turbo/ex mani removal. I really wish I had 3 grand right now so I could just say fuck it and grab a new manifold/3071!! LOL I'm exploring my options... a) take whole mainifold off w/turbo b) removing turbo w/o mani c) trying to get at it where it is (really don't see that happening) d) ANYTHING BETTER THAT SOMEONE CAN RECOMMEND! So... like the title says... What would you do to fix it if you were in this situation? Here are crappy cell pics of said fuck-up....   |
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07-14-2011, 02:50 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Is that the end of the bolt we are looking @? |
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07-14-2011, 02:51 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score That is where the bolt snapped off! |
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07-14-2011, 02:52 PM
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07-14-2011, 02:54 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score yeah i would agree try an extractor. although if its stubborn like my stock TMIC was you wont get anywhere... one of the cover bolts for the plastic cover snapped off in my TMIC, god knows how, but we broke an extractor trying to get it out.
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07-14-2011, 02:55 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I hate to say it, but in order to get at the broken bolt with out generating more fail, the turbo will have to be removed to drill it out on a drill press. The studs are a high grade steel that is not easily drilled, and trying to do it with it on the car will only end up in breaking bits, or worse, breaking a bit off in the stud.
__________________ I am my own After Market Company. A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely idiot proof is to underestimate the ingenuity of a complete idiot. - Douglas Adams Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt. - Mark Twain Cops carry guns to protect themselves, not to protect you. READ THIS---- 2nd Amendment A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed. I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake. |
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07-14-2011, 02:56 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score well, I definately think its gonna be stubborn, but it may be worth a try...? |
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07-14-2011, 02:56 PM
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| 6 mods and some Kool-Aid   Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jax, FL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did something similar, elsewhere. A mechanic with tools can get that will prolly just need dp off. |
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07-14-2011, 02:58 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Get a bottle of map gas and a turbo torch tip. Drill the center first , heat the the ear it broke off in and then when the ear is cherry red use the extractor to remove the bolt. |
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07-14-2011, 03:01 PM
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@SilverDemon I know you know your shit, so I would realy like your opinion..... its not a stud, it is a crappy bolt that CNT sent with their DP. When I was getting the stud out to install the DP (only 1 that the stud came with the nut), the stud spun a SHITLOAD inside the turbo, and got stripped obviously.... so I tried just using one of the bolts that were supplied.  Does this change your opinion? and what about the below option?
Are you suggesting torching it while still in the car? would that be safe? I could see that working... Last edited by Fatguy729; 07-14-2011 at 03:10 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
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07-14-2011, 03:03 PM
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Good luck..sucks..just got my CNT DP+CBe...Hope I don't run into anything remotely similar.
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07-14-2011, 03:14 PM
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07-14-2011, 03:22 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Damn, there are more people reading my fail thread than this 1 LOL |
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07-14-2011, 03:28 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 1. In the future, never use those cheap-ass bolts; use an OE or similar quality stud. 2. Do what kmac said; drill it out, then heat it up with MAPP gas and use PB blaster a couple times, then use an extractor. It will come out without pulling the turbo. I would pull the DP out first, though. I would also use a thread chaser on the turbo exhaust housing threads before putting a new stud in. Do NOT use a thread tap - they are for cutting new threads, not for cleaning out existing threads. I bought a full thread chaser set from Sears for ~$60 if I remember correctly.
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07-14-2011, 03:33 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If u have a right angle drill , remove your down pipe and you're not retarded you can do it in the car. If you're afraid take it out. |
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07-14-2011, 04:04 PM
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__________________ I am my own After Market Company. A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely idiot proof is to underestimate the ingenuity of a complete idiot. - Douglas Adams Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt. - Mark Twain Cops carry guns to protect themselves, not to protect you. READ THIS---- 2nd Amendment A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed. I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake. | |
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07-14-2011, 04:16 PM
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__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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07-14-2011, 04:22 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you end up deciding to pull the turbo it may be worth trying to find a good k04 (are there any) I have seen some on here for cheap, and just swapping it out. It would keep you from trying to rush drilling the bolt out and screwing it up more. You could always fix your turbo and sell it later. |
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07-14-2011, 07:10 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score LOL the only k04 that I've seen recently that wasn't just good for a core charge, had the exact same hole fucked up and needed retapped. I think I will try to do it with turbo in car. If that doesn't work I may just have to drive my car like a grandma for awhile to save money for a 3071. I can't see going through 2 days of bullshit to stick the k04 back on! Only problems I'm seeing right now (not at WOT) are afr's around 14.1-14.4, at least its not lean! And every attempt to do a MAF Cal has resulted in fail as well... But I'm seeing between -5 and +3, so..... As of now, its not a deadly fail. I will update when I get it done |
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07-14-2011, 07:13 PM
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07-14-2011, 07:18 PM
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07-14-2011, 07:26 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You might be able to simply remove the turbo and bring it to a shop... You will know right away by looking at the machinists face when you show him what you need done if he is able to do it or not.. Trust the face... not the WORDS... or. Buy a new half snail and toss the other away..
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07-14-2011, 07:29 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i broke that same bolt, only mine sticks out of the turbo more, but i've never been able to get it out. it's been broke for almost 2 years now and i've never had a leak there at all. |
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07-14-2011, 07:31 PM
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fixed  Keemo577 likes this.
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07-14-2011, 07:37 PM
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07-14-2011, 07:54 PM
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07-14-2011, 08:03 PM
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I would like to suggest that you think about fixing it even though it "Seems Fine" Having only three bolts holding three corners of a 4 corner flange, will cause stress every time the part is heat cycled... that could be every time you drive it, or every time you accelerate. Eventually it will fail, or fail sooner than it should..
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07-14-2011, 08:09 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was working on a forklift last week and had the same problem. 1st get have access to a MIG welder 2nd weld a "tit" on the bolt so you can get a set of vice grips on it like so,  3rd heat the area with an Oxy-acetylene torch till cherry red then remove.
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07-14-2011, 08:39 PM
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07-15-2011, 01:41 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Good time to get a bigger turbo...
__________________ 08 MS3: ATP GTX3071 at 26PSI  , AEM Dryflow 21-2147DK, CP-E 3.25'' MAF, CP-E Nviscid TIP, PG FMIC piping with Treadstone TR11 core, Cobb BPV, Ported IM, PG v1 manifold, CP-E catted DP, CNT CBE, KMD v2, Grimspeed EBCS, Alkycontrol Meth injection (M10 with 100% meth), E40 fuel, Cobb AP (ATR= WIN), ACT ZX4-HDSS, 3-Bar MAP, JBR RSB, and CP-E 60 Duro Engine Mount Set. (297.3WHP/366.9WTQ - on K04, 469.2WHP/420.7WTQ - on GTX3071)  |
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07-26-2011, 10:45 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry I haven't updated... I have been collecting tools/gasket sealers/ new dp gasket.... etc. The new DP gasket gets here tomorrow, but I may not need to deal with it. I might be getting into a 08 CWP MS3 LOL. THe stealership has already said that if I put everything back to stock, they will do the trade, already looked the car over and gave me an appraisal...... So it might just end up being their problem.... IF i do the trade! Its an 08 sport, I LOVE CWP, 43k miles, clean carfax, NO SIGNS OF MODDING! Mine is an 07 GT, silver, 44k miles, fully bolted... 2 accidents on carfax... The dealership has to make money, but they are offering me a lower intrest rate, and my payment will only go up $19 a month. I keep my mods obviously, and an added bonus is I won't have to deal with my fail, even though the new turbo->DP gasket comes in tomorrow  |
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07-26-2011, 03:35 PM
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07-29-2011, 11:21 PM
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That is unless you fuck up the DP install again... 
__________________ 09 MGM Sport AP (MIA  ) / Internals / TMIC / CAI / TIH / Downpipe / CBE / Short shifter / RMM / RSB | |
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07-29-2011, 11:55 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just as kmac said, best way to get studs out, Acetylene Torch man. I had problems getting studs that snapped off in the head of another project car long ago. I heated the hell out of the area with an Acetylene Torch , drilled into the stud with a smaller bit, and twisted it out. Your best bet imo, is to pull that turbo off, and get up front and close with that nasty problem. |
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07-31-2011, 08:13 AM
| #35 | |
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__________________ 07 MS3 The original Genpoo Hater PTE 5862cea ball bearing, plus some built stuff. Turismo Vids - Store your car vids and pics here! Blog your builds too! Click here for great deals at The RPM Store! PM me for pricing! I hear that honkey at Protégé Garage is pretty decent too. |
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07-31-2011, 08:26 AM
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__________________ 330whp/381ft/lb No Nitrous Meh 403whp/451ft/lb Dry Shot | |
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07-31-2011, 08:33 AM
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"Don't tell me how much it costs...tell me how much it costs a month."  Hopefully, it actually isn't a bad deal...
__________________ 08 MS3: ATP GTX3071 at 26PSI , AEM Dryflow 21-2147DK, CP-E 3.25'' MAF, CP-E Nviscid TIP, PG FMIC piping with Treadstone TR11 core, Cobb BPV, Ported IM, PG v1 manifold, CP-E catted DP, CNT CBE, KMD v2, Grimspeed EBCS, Alkycontrol Meth injection (M10 with 100% meth), E40 fuel, Cobb AP (ATR= WIN), ACT ZX4-HDSS, 3-Bar MAP, JBR RSB, and CP-E 60 Duro Engine Mount Set. (297.3WHP/366.9WTQ - on K04, 469.2WHP/420.7WTQ - on GTX3071) | |
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07-31-2011, 09:47 AM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it's $19 extra a month, and same amount of payments, thats not a bad deal... If he is refinancing for another 5-6 years.... OP is raping himself hard
__________________ 09 MGM Sport AP (MIA ) / Internals / TMIC / CAI / TIH / Downpipe / CBE / Short shifter / RMM / RSB |
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07-31-2011, 09:59 AM
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if you do it will mess up the threads and stretch bolt and after extreme heat on turbo bolts will break on removal may also consider buying grade 8 bolts instead of the grade 5 they may of used and i agree with everyone else on removing turbo, i had a bolt break off in my exhaust manifold i took it to the guy who fabricated it and he drilled it out and retapped hole and it works fine. XRJoe likes this. | |
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08-09-2011, 03:42 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Update... I'm going to attempt to fix this tomorrow. If I can't get it out w/o taking the turbo off, I'm gonna say fuck it and get a bigger turbo (gt/gtx3071). I can't see myself taking the time to do all that shit, just to stick the K04 back on! I have PB blaster, a new DP gasket, RTV high heat (incase I can't fix it, hopefully it will create a temporary seal), stud extractor.... Going now to buy the torch and thread chaser (honestly don't know what that is). So with the thread chaser, will I still need to re tap it? and will I be able to fit the stock M10x1.50 studs in there? rfinkle2 likes this. |
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