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Info on Cam timing As a Porsche Master Tech I wanted to shed some light on a debate. That is if you can replace a timing chain without timing the engine. NO, not correctly. In order to properly time the engine you need at least a tdc bolt, of the correct length,(if I remember correctly it is 38.58mm, I will check later) AND either a cam holding tool or at very least a bar to hold the exh. cam. The thing to remember is the crank sprocket is not indexed to the crank but held in place when the crank pulley bolt is torqued to spec. The non OEM holding tool I obtained was not tight on the cams so the cams could be moved with holder in place. Not good for an accurate cam timing. I had to use feeler gauges to shim tool so cams couldn't move with tool in place. Keep this in mind. So in closing, you need at least a bolt machined to correct length and at least a bar on exhaust cam. Anything else and you are risking engine damage, or poor running and power. I just completed mine so if you have any questions just ask. |
The aftermarket timing tools you have are the blue ones? I'm deciding whether or not to buy them. |
tools should be all the same ... i think the only companies that makes timing tools is oem, sure, or corksports. The tdc crank peg is the same used in other ford 2.3L motors. Not sure if corksport sells the timing tools without the lightweight crank pulley. |
i never understood why timing a cam , degreeing it or whatever the fuck u wanna do to it seems like such a fucken ordeal. fucken piston stop....a degree wheel to tell u where the fuck u are at in comparison to tdc and shit man....a lil thing called common fucken sense. people outta spend a few hours watching a motor getting built to demystify some of the shit surrounding cam timing. |
I thought about doing the lightweight pulley. But no the ones I got were locally made. If you are not doing an actuator or cams you can just use a bar on the exh cam and the tdc bolt. |
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