Kaboom! options for a new block.. and rotating assembly?
 

So I was unfortunate enough to join the ever growing list of exploding Speed3's. (2008.5)

Mine went out as if it was being sucked into the depths of hell... I havn't taken a really good look yet (gathering my thoughts) but from what i've seen/heard... I was leaving a mazda dealership (how appropriate) and shifting from 1st to 2nd (guessing around 4500RPM in boost), and she tossed a rod out the front of the block (39,900 KM)

Her vital fluids.... spewed forth... as I coasted down the road...

Mods: Cobb SRI + Inlet, Cobb Downpipe, Cobb CBE, Cobb Accessport OTS v103 91 FMIC, Cobb FMIC....

Anyway, warranty is pretty much out of the picture (I don't feel like going through the hassle) So what options are out there for gettting a new block and rotating assembly, I might as well go forged while i'm at it.

fuck man im selling my car...that sucks man. You can contact Street Unit and I think Protege Garage sells engines too...

Leaving the dealer... engine cold? How long has that map been on ie: have the fuel trims settled? 4500rpm 1st to 2nd shift should be out of the area where others have blown.

This would ALMOST be classified as a WOT blow...Let us know more details, but I'm sure we're all betting on cyl 3 or 4 and the BSD being in tact on the car.

subscribed!

wow man...glad I'm stocking out. Fuck this. I'll just drive this fucker stock for a while.

I wouldn't shit myself until we get more details. This could have been anything.

oh absolutely. But personally, I cannot afford to pop the engine and NOT have mazda pick up the tab.

I don't know how the guys that pop are so damn calm. I'd be crying, and I haven't cried since I was 10 years old lol.

I wonder how many people will drop this car once it's out of warranty.

to the OP, after having built and seeing many engines built, if you want to keep this as a DD, I'd suggest going with OEM pistons and aftermarket rods (Carillo comes to mind). Forged pistons end up being noisy when cold (setting off the knock sensor) and often cause more wear to the bores. If it's going to be an all out track car, then opt for the forged pistons.

Funny thing is that once people build a motor - they RARELY put lots of miles on it like they would with a stock motor.

Any strange behavior before the car blew?

EDIT: Did you have an upgraded fuel pump?

Yes please provide more details. What was the purpose of the dealer visit? Oil change? Did they tighten the drain bolt?

just wondering....were u wot when u shifted from 1st to 2nd @around 4.5k rpm? or u were @partial throttle in boost? im from brunswick, how come i never see u around?

did they loosen you rod bolts?

Damn, 2 blown motors while I'm on vacation. Doesn't make me too happy about returning to my car. Subbin for reliable solution. IIRC, PG sells a built motor for about $5k. Then, how many hours for a good shop to replace?

I'm just heading out to the garage now, to start the tear down. The visit to the dealer was nothing... just lookin to get another PCV valve, for my catch can install.

Car was warm, as in, i'd just stopped in to the dealer to check on the PCV price. The map has been on for 2000 km.

Things I noticed before the Boom Boom, it made it's first puff of oil out the tail pipe when I was sitting nose down on a hill waiting for a light. (this is the reason I was getting ready to install the catch can)

CDFP was stock, and the logs I had just run were showing dwindling fuel pressure.... (1700..... down to like 800 under WOT) which alarmed me, and I was just going to order up the KMD V2 internals the night the motor blew.

Sooooo, I'll know more when I start taking it apart. But from the bits I collected off the ramp truck, I think I found a part of a piston , some engine block, and part of a rod.

Ha welcome my brother. I just blew my motor on Sunday morning. I lucked out and got a motor for 2k from a friend though. hit up P3 I believe they got some fresh motors in stock. Start to finish its costing me 3k but you should expect atleast 4-4.5 to get a stock motor back in your car if you buy a used motor from a yard.

Darksun's motor going was a shame since an oil leak took it out after living through so much.

As for other blow-ups, everyone is concentrated on KR and I'm not convinced knock is killing these motors. If detonation was really killing things, we'd see a lot more piston damage.

So we're left with some odd pre-ignition event trying to spin the assembly backwards, something binding in the rotating assembly, or flawed factory parts.

still no motors blown with BSD ! hawhawhaw

sorry dark :(

that's true...we'd see divots and and all sorts of detonation evidence on the top of the pistons. Hell, most blown motors still have tons of carbon on the tops of the pistons!

We can get you a brand new forged shortblock for around 4.5-5k depending on internals. This includes everything needed, just bolt up your head and oil pan. If you use wiseco pistons, you can have a forged piston with no piston slap when cold due to the coated piston skirt.

Feel free to PM/email me for more information

msfprotegegarage@gmail.com

Jeff at PG

hate to break it to you, but i'm pretty sure there was a motor popped with the bsd....:Eyecrazy:

Really? I have been following the blown motor threads in detail and there is always one guys who says this, but then no proof to follow.

They don't slap at idle, but my coated wisecos (not in an MS3) will slap when cold between 2500 and 3500 RPM. It's just the nature of forged pistons.

sorry i just dont have time to keep track of the threads, but i'm sure i read it somewhere, blown motor with bsd done.

I think it was Tizi that had the BSD done, but IIRC he only did it a few weeks before the motor blew (along with the meth). although, he was running fully bolted with a rebuilt k04 and trapping like 117, so take it FWIW. we still don't have a known person with the BSD done early in the car's life that has blown up.

trapping 112.

Easy with the Mazda fables man lol

The only way the BSD can cause the motor to fail is if it locks up. So unless it's in the engine when it blows, there's no way it being there before had any effect.

I agree, but there are still a lot of people on here that think (or want to believe) that the BSD delete saves motors..

I am not one of them.

my bad, youre right. i fail :smashfreakB:

Maybe Mazda's upcoming PCV fix is the cure for all our problems. One can dream.

Wutchu talkin 'bout Willis?

Damn sorry to here this Phil. It lasted forever tho

Yeah that's how my life goes. Irony till the bitter end.

Are you going to build the motor? If so when i come to visit the fam ima have to give you and chris a taste of my 50 trim. BOI LOL Goodluck

Nah I'm washed up and so is chris.

I spent all my spare cash on a spare motor and my navi. Chris stocked out his BMW and is getting engaged.

If the BSD was designed as part of the motor I'd agree. In this case, absolutely not. This BSD is a complete afterthought. It's been discussed in great detail how this BSD could cause issues.

I am one of them. I've been down the road of running over 24 psi for months because the shitty factory MAP isn't accurate at elevation and wondering why I had KR in the 2-5 range for weeks on end that I couldn't tune out or get rid of with octane. I did the BSD real early in the cars life. Around 5,000 miles IIRC. Car now runs better than day one and I don't have strange KR like a lot of people see. Some speculate, but I've lived through it.

And to clarify, his thread stated days. Not weeks or more. It was something in the range of 1-2 days IIRC. That leaves way to much open for speculation including things such as the BSD done wrong.

The fact is still that no one who removed their BSD has popped.

The CP pistons do not slap or make noise when cold....

If you will, please explain in engineering terms, how will a rotating assembly (the BS) no longer attached to the motor cause the motor to fail catastrophically?

If there was any worth to the BSD theory, it was that it caused the motor to bind or lock up. This could clearly only be done with the BS still attached.

Please don't use a single car's success or aversion to blowing up to determine the cause of it not failing. By the same token there are lots of vehicles with the BS assembly still attached that have not "popped" Statistically there are a lot fewer vehicles that have removed the BS and therefore a lot fewer (overall) from this smaller subset will fail.

sucks man :(

114 punk

sorry about the motor but were you wot when you blew?
no fp internals ftllll

His oil line attached to the turbo leaked oil and the low oil spun the bearing.

meant the guy that blew in this thread not phil

Sorry guys I'm going back on shift this morning (12.5 hour days) So I won't have any updates until monday.

BS was in tact.

I may have been near WOT.... it's blurry.... such a painful memory

First, your question makes no sense. I have no idea what you are asking, or why, when you type a question like "how will a rotating assembly (the BS) no longer attached to the motor cause the motor to fail catastophically. Uhhhhhhhhhhh what? Who said that the BS sitting in the floor of your garage would cause the motor to fail? Try restating your question is the correct format for what you want answered.

Secondly, once you get the right question posted, why would I answer it (in laymans or engineering terms)? There is absolutely no point in it at all for you or me. As I said it's all been discussed before and just like any dyno sheet posted or track times posted, everyone picks a side they want to be on and sticks to it. You want to believe the BS causes no harm, I 100% disagree. That's what matters.

Unfortunately for your side, as of right now, there are no motors that have had the BSD done prior to modding the piss out of them that have popped. ZERO! There are plenty of popped motors with the BS still in and there is one and maybe one more, that built up first, ran the piss out of them and then decided to do the BSD and suffered zoom zoom boom. Sorry, but damage was done prior to that. No one, including me, has ever said the BSD saves the engine after the damage is done. That would be an ignorant statement to make.

+1^

If the BS is indeed causing motors to pop, why does Mazda continue to include it in new models since it came out in 07? I haven't heard of it being reworked at all in 07-09 models, or in the upcoming 2010 model.

Most likely, Mazda hasn't found the BS being the cause of failure in their analysis.

The only alternative is that they know it is a problem, but continue to install it anyway because the cost of replacing these motors under warranty is cheaper than issuing a full recall of all speeds for it to be reworked or deleted. This would be Fed up if true. Their cost analysis mandates that they continue to install a possibly catastrophic component on our cars, resulting in financial headaches if it happens out of warranty...or worse...causing a major accident.

Why do you guys blame these engine failures on stupid things like knock, or the balance shaft, or whatever? If it were those things, you would see engines failing in all different places. Melted pistons, spun bearings, etc.

Look at what keeps blowing on these motors. The rods.

Face it, the rods are the weakest link in this engine. Its not the knock, its not the balance shaft. Its the rods.

Has anyone on any of these forums ever thought that a good performance upgrade would be a rod replacement? Not an entire motor build, but just replacing the rods. Anyone?

Its been discussed...

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...placement.html

No you came onto these forums and on your 22nd post schooled us all with your mad abundant knowledge yo!

15:1 a/f and 5-10 psi of boost at part throttle isnt a stupid thing its a problem

Can we call this car THE NEW SCHOOL DSM? lol
Sorry to those who blew tho it sucks i know.

to all BSD fanboyz -
i was wondering if people were running A/C, headlights and wipers at the time that the engine blew. if 100% of people did NOT have their wipers on when the engine blew, we would know that running the wipers would have prevented their misfortunes....

.... hides

I still don't buy the rod issue completely. Why is it that these engine's don't blow at WOT when stresses are greatest? They blow at part throttle, light boost, going up hills in 4th. Sounds like metal fatigue or something...

Hmm... Stock engine seems to run just fine like that. And now that ATR is out, what are you bitching about? Make your own custom map.

What is stupid is that many believe that their 4 cyl. motor should be able to make a reliable 400 whp and run all day on its stock block. You have to be delusional to think that should be the case. How many 4.6L V8's do you see running a reliable 800whp on a stock block?

Even if you do build the motor, 400whp on a 4cyl engine is a hell of a lot of stress. Even with forged parts I wouldn't consider the engine to be a safe and reliable. Hell race teams tear apart motors every season, and sometimes every race, to check for worn parts. What kind of power levels are they running? 400-500 whp?

Too many people have Fast and the Furious syndrome thinking that their 2.0L with a GT35 should make 500 whp, and if it doesn't its weak. Get real people.

I suppose post count equals total cumulative knowledge of automobiles in your mind? Maybe I should just spam all the threads on the forum so my post count can go up and you can take what I say more seriously...

wow what 4cyl engines have you worked with you sound like a typical muscle car clown who thinks he knows it all

So what about all the evos 500whp on stock block and ive seen over 600whp stock block

what about the sti's 400whp stock block and up

what about the srt4's with 400-500whp stock block

new caliber over 500whp stock block

new evos are all easily 350-450whp stock block

our motors are forged btw so i think it can handle the power tuning aspects aside

how about all the k series motors which are stout as hell and were designed as a 200hp n/a motor stock but some push over 400whp stock block

No joining a car forum and creating a user name makes you an automatic automobile master. Uping your post count just makes everyone pay what you say anymind.

:popcorn: Oh snaps this is getting good :bigparty:

VTEC_EATER sounds like a typical V8 older guy!!!!

First of all, jmhinkle, I apologize for not being clear. Let me break it down for you. Tell me HOW the BS assembly breaks the engine. Then tell me how it still breaks the engine after it has been removed? Is that clear for you? You are linking not blowing up with the BSD modification without have any solid proof that they should be linked. Period.

There is some truth to a lot that was said here. The first thing that people must understand is that detonation causes damage to piston tops before rods let go. Our sensors are so sensitive we don't even HEAR the detonation they pick up. Do most people here even know what knock sounds like by ear? You can hear it for extended periods of time before it causes damage to pistons.

Secondly, all these Evos and STIs and SRT4s .... how many are pushing 400-500 whp RELIABLY? For how long? 40k miles? 60k miles? How many of those cars have been built and have blown up before a handful of people make those numbers and for how long? So yes, as you get up there, the stock bottom end will start letting go - I've said this before - 50% above stock power and you're playing with fire. You may be lucky or you may not be.

Lastly, every motor has flaws. The further you push it, the faster they will come out of the woodwork. Some will let go earlier than others. The fact that these motors let go at low loads may indicate there is some flaw with them. Maybe it's an engineering flaw or a manufacturing flaw. It may also indicate the components fatigue or that some rods have imperfections when they are forged. There isn't a single answer for this and it may take time and more blown engines to get more answers.

Be sensible when you mod, know the limitations, and be prepared to pay if you push the envelope. But don't make up bs like "my balance shaft blew my motor after it was removed."

I agree completely with what lex said most don't last that many miles because if your buidling a car like that its most likely not your daily, the bs still isn't clear to me either how it is going to save a motor but I really think most of the blown motors are from the damage from the knock and heat

I'm not actually. Ive owned 4 cyl turbo cars for most my life. I had a 66 Mustang with a 289 that I rebuilt, but that's my experience with V8's. I'm just a realist.

You guys are under some belief that all 4cyl engines should handle 400 whp with ease. Slap on some bolt-ons, up the boost, get a tune, and you will be running 10's. It is not that easy. And it is certainly not a reliable engine. If it were, there would be manufacturers that make 400 whp 4cyl cars for the masses. But they don't.

Just because an EVO or an STI can make 400 whp on a stock block does not mean that all turbo 4 engines can make 400 whp on a stock block. Have any of you disassembled an EVO or STI engine and compared it to the DISI engine? They are built significantly more stout than ours. Maybe that extra $10,000 went into their drivetrain? We certainly know it didn't go into the interiors.

Seriously the weak link in these engines are the rods. How many people have dropped a valve? How many have experienced crankwalk? How many have spun bearings? Anyone blow holes in their pistons yet from detonation? I'm pretty sure we have enough proof to say that 90% of all blown DISI motors threw a rod out of the engine.

There is obviously a pattern here. Why not upgrade your rods (fine, do your pistons at the same time if you want to) instead of getting some lightweight $2000 ballin' JDM rimz, yo! It seems like the smarter solution.

I'll agree w/ the last part. If I were going to build this engine on a budget, I'd do rods and that's it. We're getting detonation all over the place but I don't see any evidence of it on the pistons tops.


As for spun bearings, Darksun280 took care of that condition for us lol.

The bottom line is, we do not have enough data to make a solid hypothesis as to why some people pop their motors under similar low load conditions. Educated guesses are helpful, but I think they mislead a lot of people into performing mods that are unnecessary and unlikely to solve the problem. Its like shooting in the dark...well, more like shooting at night with only the moon's light.

The only party that does have the data is Mazda, who has put in a substantial amount of time, money and knowledge into finding the cause of these motor failures compared to what we have available to us. I wish it were required by law for them to release this information so people wouldn't be taking unnecessary measures to give themselves a (probably false) sense of security. They should at least release which parts they have changed or modified from model year to model year.

I know this isn't helpful, and hopefully the good people looking into this matter find the answers for us quickly. I just feel that as long as your logs look good, I don't really see what else can be done until firm proof of a systematic flaw in our engine is discovered.

all the cars that are blowing are pushing like 50 more hp at most on most of them. technology must have come pretty far for the cost cutters at mazda to have been able to build a rod that only has a tolerance of 240hp and thats it.

What's the point of opening up the engine to put in rods when we canr make enough power as it is, look at all the cars that were right around 350whp or more and I an only think of one that blew up part throttle randy and one that blew at wot but he had a lot of miles on his setup, our motors can take 350 whp we jus need to get it down in the pt tuning part

This is the song i've been singing for a while. Our cars seem happy as a clam at WOT, but it's the part throttle bs that kills em. I find it hard to believe the whole "the motor was already weakened from all the high HP and just decided to let go pulling away from a stop light" If all that high hp wot was weakening the motor, we'd see more motors letting go at high hp wot.

I vote design flaw, hopefully solvable with ATR, but as of right now the ecu seems to be out smarting us, hahaha.

I concur

in summary then the BSD will keep my motor from blowing ?

There is no conclusive evidence that it will.

Yup no hard evidence either way about BSD, so take from the discussion what you want.

I simply removed it cause i liked the idea of an extra quart of oil in the motor, and no siphoning from cylinder 2, plus I just felt cool pulling a 20lb leech off of my motor, hahaha.

Do you think mazda is putting a lot of time/money into this potential issue? I question that simply because they seem to be voiding warranties left and right.

the only real evidence that the bsd will save you is really, the lack of evidence. since no forum going mazdaspeed enthusiast has blown after removing the bs, then people ASSume that it must be the fix.

i could just as easily change out my pcv valve, or put the diode in my o2 sensor, or drive around with my A/C on ALL the time, and feasibly make similar claims.

if this happened in between shifts, then perhaps running a BOV VTA wouldve have saved the OP.

as far as the SRT/EVO/STi comments... i dont care about 400hp reliably. i would rather have what they FOR SURE have. a car that you can put a couple of bolt ons, and be fast and reliable. i'd like to find an SRT4 that blew with intake/tbe and a tune under similar conditions. or better yet, stock ones under similar conditions that speeds have blown stock.

Hell no that isn't clear and it sounds more stupid that the last time you tried to ask it. Seriously this shit right here: "Then tell me how it still breaks the engine after it has been removed?" Like I said last time... ummmmmmmm, what???? You aren't getting it. Truthfully, I'm not sure what you are arguing at this point. You seem or try to impose like you are a closet smart guy. The kind who has read a zillion books on all kinds of engineering stuff and has 3 or 4 ph.d's on the wall and wants to pick an argument on based on some tiny fragment of a sentence. Whatever floats your boat. If you are as smart as you want us to believe, then you know as well as I do what stresses the BS puts on the crank that it was not designed for. There is no reason for me to rehash it over and over again for you. You just want to believe they are minimal and I can live with that. I have no reason to argue for you to pull your BS out if you don't want to. Trust me, I like knowing you have it in. :)

speaking of srt4's mine made 300whp on stock turbo from about 2k miles till about 10k miles

....then about 330-340whp from 10k-20k miles on a modded stock turbo....

....then over 400whp from 20k miles till 89k miles on a gtk series turbo.....sold it /lame


thats right....daily drove 400+ whp for nearly 60k miles.....stock block....did have a few tranny problems but nothing as expensive as blowing a speed 3 motor would be.

not to mention how easy it was to make power from.

You should hear the flack I'm getting on my Srt-4 forum for blowing up.

Not to mention I have a neighbor and a coworker with 500+HP SRT-4's DD's. The only thing they blow is tranny parts. I tossed and axle with maybe 250.

Just to add fuel to the BSD fire, hahahaha.

The only reason i think pulling the BS off of the motor is to help the oiling. I just read a response from cobb bout our engine failures and how the slung rods seem more indicative of oiling issues than knock issues (which, as we all know, usually break pistons not rods). So maybe BS removal DOES help longevity by improving oiling, not just by removing a section from the oil circuit, but also by allowing an extra quart of oil to be put in.

Meh, i think i'm just a late comer and this shits already been hashed out a billion times. What other oiling problems do our cars have? Oh fucked up pcv system? hmmm, that's not good either...

Can any of your smarter people draw any conclusion from this? Could these oil problems be causing our tossed rods? Seriously, i have no feel or experience for this kind of shit.

One has to wonder if the removal of these balance shafts increases or decreases the stress within the engine. I suppose things are inconclusive at the moment with the DISI engines since the BSD kits have only been around for 6 months or so. But we know the purpose of the balance shafts are to decrease engine vibrations due to an improperly balanced engine design. This is just a design flaw of all inline 4 cyl. engines, not DISI specific.

But if the removal of the balance shafts increases engine vibrations, obviously the internal components are vibrating more than before. Will this vibration cause other failures within the engine? Will these vibrations trip the knock sensor to pull more timing when in fact the engine is completely fine? Are we going to get more stories of phantom knock that can't be tuned out?

The balance shafts have NOTHING to do with rotating assembly balance. All they are suppose to do it cancel out vibrations caused by the inline 4 design. Has nothing to do with the internal balance of the engine. It's simply for comfort, to cancel vibrations that the driver would normally feel without the BS. Some inline 4s don't have balance shafts (b-series hondas is a good example, also the 4cyl Ranger).

^ Right.

I was trying to steer the discussion towards oil, not vibes.

I take exception to that remark.:gay:

I have a connecting rod and piston out of a working DISI engine in my hand. They both look stout and piston has carbon buildup but no indication of detonation damage.

One thing jumps out about this:

On the machined surface of the big end of the rod, there are some scoring marks. They usually stop or start right where the cap and main section of the rod come together.

This tells me 2 things:

1. The machined side of the rod makes contact with the crank as it rotates.

2. The machining on the cap and rod is done independently such that there is an "edge" if you will when they are mated.

Most blowups have either been in cruise or more commonly when shifting gears. Low load. The rotating assembly is being forced to stop or snagging or binding causing the rod to break or bend under those high pressure conditions. The question is: where is the snag or binding happening. Some say it's the BS. Perhaps.

I don't like that the rods make contact with the side of the crank.

After a blowup, do the rod bolts stay in place? I want to see more pictures of blown engines and the fracture points on the rods. Anyone have pics or links to these blowup pictures?

Rod bolts sometimes stay in place and sometimes don't ....What cylinder # rod and piston do you have?

I actually don't know - Mark sent it to me from the motor he tore down and he had mixed them up.

Have you seen these same score marks Scott? Where the BS gear is on the crank, there is a step on the crank surface that meets the rod. This can have a higher chance of snagging.

The piston also gets very hot as this engine had oil burn marks from the oil channel exits coming down the piston sides.

When I take my motor apart, I"ll take lots of pictures.

Which rod did you happen to chuck?

But engine vibrations will be made more apparent. As a driver you may or may not notice it, but the knock sensor attached to the engine may notice it. Heck Lex is making a theory that his phantom knock is due to his CP-e motor mount binding during cruise. The mount breaks free, trips the knock sensor, and he can't repeat it until the mount starts binding again while cruising for a while. Total randomness.

The mount observation is very true. I can't repeat the random 8 KR since I have greased it and re-tightened. I am not the first to generate false KR due to noise in the engine bay. This is the reason that once you make one modification you have to be aware of the possible consequences and test test test on a large sample size. This is why aftermarket parts often result in issues.

Can you post some pics labeling the marks?

well i for one know that i just ordered a BSD and windage tray. whats the worst that could happen.....you blow? there's a good possibility you will do that anyway. your damned if you do and your damned if you don't so you might as well do what gives you personal piece of mind. As for me i will feel better when the BS is out and i have a windage tray in there.

BSD DOESN'T SAVE MOTORS
 

I AM HERE TO TELL YOU THAT DOING A BALANCE SHAFT DELETE DOES NOT SAVE A MOTOR I AM LIVING PROOF I JUST BLEW UP YESTERDAY AND HAD BSD&METH NOTHING SAVES THESE PIECE OF S*&T MOTORS I HAD THE BSD FOR ABOUT 9,000MILES NOW AND IT DIDN'T HELP AT ALL I HAVE PIECES OF ALUMINUM ALL OVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So they finally got you too huh? I tell you no ones safes but people don't listen. There either going to tell you

1. The damage was done before you got the BSD
or
2. You didn't stand a chance cause you were modded.

LOL^

Your all the sudden proof? What was done to your car? What were you doing when it blew?

o and fuck your caps lock... SHUT IT OFF

+1

I just need the details of the blow. Don't tell me that BSD and Meth won't save your car while you drive around boosted up in 6th gear at 2000 RPM. Or that you popped off the wastegate line and was running with 30psi. There are always details involved and they do make the difference.

I've got 20000 miles on my BSD that I did before I started modding anything. It sways me strongly to my side of course, but with some reasonable data I'm always open to hear that it doesn't help.

agreed. details please.

Maybe start a new thread so that the details of your blow don't get confused with the OP and so others will know... instead of your post being hidden within a different thread.

Having said that, I am sorry for your loss....can you list the basics...mods, rpm...you probably know the drill...

:scared:

Says he was fully bolted with an sst

*patiently waiting for latest blow thread*

i got blown last night:fing02:

Concur