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 Old 04-05-2016, 12:28 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by sailnaked6842 View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong but SP63 doesn't recommend their 4032 in builds over 450 hp since you can start cracking ring lands, which sounds like that may be a deal breaker for you? On the plus side it doesn't get cold in Las Vegas and from what I've read most people, if they get piston slap (which I think they were running Wiseco's OTS 2618), get it at under 50*F.
Can someone confirm this, or provide a link where this is stated? This is the first I've heard this. The ring lands on my 4032s are pretty frickin beefy.

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 Old 04-05-2016, 12:38 PM   #42
 
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Hmm, just checked their website and it's a lot different than when I ordered mine, which was back in July. Back then they only had 1 option for the pistons which was the SP63 Pro Series Piston they have on their site and I had to ask if they could make it in 4032 which was a custom order and took, no joke, 16 weeks to receive. During the process I remember they specifically said not to use it in a build exceeding 450 hp but that may have changed now. My engine builder assembled the short block so I never saw the ring lands. They may have said it just to cover themselves at the time
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 Old 04-05-2016, 12:44 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by sailnaked6842 View Post
Hmm, just checked their website and it's a lot different than when I ordered mine, which was back in July. Back then they only had 1 option for the pistons which was the SP63 Pro Series Piston they have on their site and I had to ask if they could make it in 4032 which was a custom order and took, no joke, 16 weeks to receive. During the process I remember they specifically said not to use it in a build exceeding 450 hp but that may have changed now. My engine builder assembled the short block so I never saw the ring lands. They may have said it just to cover themselves at the time
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 Old 04-05-2016, 12:45 PM   #44
 
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That's what it looks like. I would think 500whp wouldn't be a problem. At least that was my hope :/

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 Old 04-05-2016, 01:19 PM   #45
 
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Those ring lands are pretty huge but I found a link. Looking back at it, it doesn't directly state the pistons are the limiting factor here, but it seems to imply it and it likely wouldn't be the rods. Built Engines - Mazda MZR-DISI - Short Blocks - SPEED PERF6RMANC3 I sent them an e-mail to confirm but you may want to call them to see what they say about the pistons since their website isn't stating much anymore and this is kind of a backwards way of confirming it

Slightly off topic but are those pistons coated?
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 Old 04-05-2016, 01:30 PM   #46
 
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They are wpc treated. I posted some info in here a little earlier on them.

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I see that the stage one has the 4032 pistons, but it also has oem main studs also. Would the pistons or the studs be the limiting factor?

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 Old 04-05-2016, 02:43 PM   #47
 
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They just responded to the email and looks like you're just gonna squeak by. They're rated at 500hp and 25psi, sorry to scare you earlier lol but it's probably a good thing for us to know

On the other hand that coating looks pretty good. Mine were moly coated which I guess only helps with break in
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 Old 04-05-2016, 03:07 PM   #48
 
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That's good to know. Thanks for getting clarification on it.

I was planning on running maybe just a tad more boost than that. I guess I should factor that in now lol Although, the wpc treatment is supposed to strengthen the pistons too, so maybe I'll stick with the original plan and shoot for 27-28lbs. Maybe daily map on 25psi, and balls-to-the-wall map with a little more umph

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 Old 04-05-2016, 04:07 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by sailnaked6842 View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong but SP63 doesn't recommend their 4032 in builds over 450 hp since you can start cracking ring lands, which sounds like that may be a deal breaker for you? On the plus side it doesn't get cold in Las Vegas and from what I've read most people, if they get piston slap (which I think they were running Wiseco's OTS 2618), get it at under 50*F.
Interesting, I was un-aware of the 450hp max point of damaging rings on those pistons. I may just end up going with the 2816's...
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 Old 04-06-2016, 08:50 AM   #50
 
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I wanted to clarify/elaborate on my earlier 2618 post. If you use a set of OTS 2618s I can almost guarantee you you will experience cold start noise/slap and wear that are common characteristics of this metal regardless of vehicle type. I would never DD a set of ots 2618s. They are finicky about properly warming up the car and just not conducive to daily commutes IMHO. Prior to aforementioned technology/process advances 4032s were the perfect compromise between increase HP capability and streetability, hence why they were/are so popular. 80-90% of the 2618 strength benefits, with 90% of the stocker/cast driving characteristics.

However, I have zero issues running a properly researched/made set of 2618s. In the case of the SP63s, Mahle would have specifically designed & engineered the 2618s for the MZR engine. This includes both the physical measurements/clearances as well as the operating conditions/characteristics of the engines(take for example cylinder temps and expansion). This allows for a much better fit by revisiting things such as skirt length, squirter reliefs, top design, etc.

The second important part of this is to have the pistons installed by a shop that is familiar with the MZR engine or at the very least import turbo setups. This allows them to fine tune the hone and pwc when assembling for the unique environment created by small displacement forced induction engines. The local Chevy/Ford machine shop down the road might not be the best pick. I've built tons of engines street/race and would have been perfectly capable of assembling my own shortblock, but I am of the opinion that having the block prepped and assembled by the guys who helped develop the piston would yield the best results.

Reader's Digest Summary:

OTS 2618s:
*Great Strength
*Annoying for DD - Cold start slap/noise, proper engine warm-up essential for good wear
*Highly recommend treatment or consider them a consumable item on the level of a timing belt cycle.
*Can we say blow-by and oil consumption, not horrible but you'll need to consistently check oil level as they burn oil until they seal fully
*Usually fairly cheap as far as forged goes
*Readily available hence Off The Shelf

4032s:
*Good strength capable of handling 80% of DD builds out there. If you want to go big verify the HP ratings first
*Not the best for full boat track/racing where engine is under high/constant load - They shatter yo. HPDE/Autocross is fine 99% of the time
*Fantastic choice for moderate DD builds as there few if any drawbacks drive characteristic wise and good reliability/power handling upgrade vs. cast. HPDE style tracking is fine
*Generally more pricey than 2618
*Usually good availability

Custom 2618s:
*Great Strength
*Much improved driving characteristics. In most cases little to no piston slap and good(read half way decent) seal from cold start.
*Usually the most expensive of the 3 options
*Usually long wait/order times
*Best results will be when assembled/block prepped by a builder familiar with the piston and/or engine

This is solely regarding the pistons. I am not even getting into treatments, rod combos, etc. Over the next few months I'll be breaking in my own 2618 build so you'll have oil analysis results and my DD feedback to make your own educated decision.
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 Old 04-06-2016, 09:59 AM   #51
 
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I don't get all the stuff I see on the forums here about 4032 pistons cracking ringlands above whatever horsepower level. Are they forged or not?? They shouldn't just crack.
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 Old 04-06-2016, 01:24 PM   #52
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
I don't get all the stuff I see on the forums here about 4032 pistons cracking ringlands above whatever horsepower level. Are they forged or not?? They shouldn't just crack.
Forged simply means that in the manufacturing process it was produced using a forging process instead being cast, and the materials used in either process are still going limited by their material properties. Some materials you can't cast do to poor castability (such as titanium), some materials can't be forged due to low forgeability (such as beryllium) where they get brittle and crack. Generally parts that cannot be forged due to their low forgeability can be cast, and vise versa. But regardless of the process you use to produce the parts they're still limited by their material properties which means that just because a metal is forged does not mean that it's going to be indestructable. Once these material properties become exceeded they inevitably fail <--- there's a lot of science behind this but it's generally easier to accept it as fact. In this case (forged 4032) the ring lands are too thin to handle the force generated by high hp so the force of the combustion on the rings causes the ring lands to crack. This is why they suggest the (forged) 2618 alloy because of it's slightly higher yield strength.

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 Old 04-08-2016, 02:56 PM   #53
 
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This thread is changing my mind every new post basically on the SP63 4032's or 2816's.... I want longevity and DD but handling of higher whp, say around 450-500 ish. I intend to WPC treat my block, pistons, rings etc anyways for some added security/strength, but I'm torn on these damn pistons lol.
I love this thread, it's giving great info on this subject where not much info is readily available, keep it up!
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Current:
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2003 Mazdaspeed protégé (spicy orange); pope E manifold and DP, injen cai, PoS fmic kit, Twisted motion gt2871 turbo, aem fic-6.

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 Old 04-08-2016, 03:10 PM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
I wanted to clarify/elaborate on my earlier 2618 post. If you use a set of OTS 2618s I can almost guarantee you you will experience cold start noise/slap and wear that are common characteristics of this metal regardless of vehicle type. I would never DD a set of ots 2618s. They are finicky about properly warming up the car and just not conducive to daily commutes IMHO. Prior to aforementioned technology/process advances 4032s were the perfect compromise between increase HP capability and streetability, hence why they were/are so popular. 80-90% of the 2618 strength benefits, with 90% of the stocker/cast driving characteristics.

However, I have zero issues running a properly researched/made set of 2618s. In the case of the SP63s, Mahle would have specifically designed & engineered the 2618s for the MZR engine. This includes both the physical measurements/clearances as well as the operating conditions/characteristics of the engines(take for example cylinder temps and expansion). This allows for a much better fit by revisiting things such as skirt length, squirter reliefs, top design, etc.

The second important part of this is to have the pistons installed by a shop that is familiar with the MZR engine or at the very least import turbo setups. This allows them to fine tune the hone and pwc when assembling for the unique environment created by small displacement forced induction engines. The local Chevy/Ford machine shop down the road might not be the best pick. I've built tons of engines street/race and would have been perfectly capable of assembling my own shortblock, but I am of the opinion that having the block prepped and assembled by the guys who helped develop the piston would yield the best results.

Reader's Digest Summary:

OTS 2618s:
*Great Strength
*Annoying for DD - Cold start slap/noise, proper engine warm-up essential for good wear
*Highly recommend treatment or consider them a consumable item on the level of a timing belt cycle.
*Can we say blow-by and oil consumption, not horrible but you'll need to consistently check oil level as they burn oil until they seal fully
*Usually fairly cheap as far as forged goes
*Readily available hence Off The Shelf

4032s:
*Good strength capable of handling 80% of DD builds out there. If you want to go big verify the HP ratings first
*Not the best for full boat track/racing where engine is under high/constant load - They shatter yo. HPDE/Autocross is fine 99% of the time
*Fantastic choice for moderate DD builds as there few if any drawbacks drive characteristic wise and good reliability/power handling upgrade vs. cast. HPDE style tracking is fine
*Generally more pricey than 2618
*Usually good availability

Custom 2618s:
*Great Strength
*Much improved driving characteristics. In most cases little to no piston slap and good(read half way decent) seal from cold start.
*Usually the most expensive of the 3 options
*Usually long wait/order times
*Best results will be when assembled/block prepped by a builder familiar with the piston and/or engine

This is solely regarding the pistons. I am not even getting into treatments, rod combos, etc. Over the next few months I'll be breaking in my own 2618 build so you'll have oil analysis results and my DD feedback to make your own educated decision.
I'll be anxious to see your reviews on these pistons to help aid my decision..
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Current:
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2003 Mazdaspeed protégé (spicy orange); pope E manifold and DP, injen cai, PoS fmic kit, Twisted motion gt2871 turbo, aem fic-6.
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 Old 04-10-2016, 06:20 PM   #55
 
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So FINALLY after ~8 months without my speed6 it's alive. I went with the SP63 4032 pistons and I have nothing negative to say about them...although the shop that built my short block may. First off the pistons are awesome, no noise (as to be expected) and they feel really torquey, although a downpipe is on there that was not on before... But they're performing well and your butt dyno will thank you for going that route. Should also mention that these pistons were moly coated which should aid in the initial break in.

That being said there are some things you should watch out for that had I assembled this motor I would have not have caught, so hopefully this makes you guys aware and on the look out. I was one of the first people to order the 4032 pistons back in July and aside from taking forever there were some issues with the specs. Apparently the ring land width was too narrow on the pistons causing sticky rings. Spec was .048 and supply was .0470. Rings were measured at .047 so to maintain manufacturers suggested clearance they were ground to .0460 and .0458. Luckily the shop/machine shop caught this and fixed it. Had I assembled it I can't say I would have, so if you do assemble this yourself make sure you measure. Secondly if you have trouble getting the spec sheet Wiseco is able to provide it if you ask. Hopefully SP63 fixed these issues, but this was my experience and although I really like the end product I hope it helps you guys to be aware.

@HaXiR; if you don't plan on making anymore than 500 hp then you should be good to go on the 4032 pistons, personally I think they're great and it would be hard to handle knowing every time you start your car you're taking life away from it
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 Old 04-11-2016, 02:55 PM   #56
 
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Originally Posted by sailnaked6842 View Post
So FINALLY after ~8 months without my speed6 it's alive. I went with the SP63 4032 pistons and I have nothing negative to say about them...although the shop that built my short block may. First off the pistons are awesome, no noise (as to be expected) and they feel really torquey, although a downpipe is on there that was not on before... But they're performing well and your butt dyno will thank you for going that route. Should also mention that these pistons were moly coated which should aid in the initial break in.

That being said there are some things you should watch out for that had I assembled this motor I would have not have caught, so hopefully this makes you guys aware and on the look out. I was one of the first people to order the 4032 pistons back in July and aside from taking forever there were some issues with the specs. Apparently the ring land width was too narrow on the pistons causing sticky rings. Spec was .048 and supply was .0470. Rings were measured at .047 so to maintain manufacturers suggested clearance they were ground to .0460 and .0458. Luckily the shop/machine shop caught this and fixed it. Had I assembled it I can't say I would have, so if you do assemble this yourself make sure you measure. Secondly if you have trouble getting the spec sheet Wiseco is able to provide it if you ask. Hopefully SP63 fixed these issues, but this was my experience and although I really like the end product I hope it helps you guys to be aware.

@HaXiR; if you don't plan on making anymore than 500 hp then you should be good to go on the 4032 pistons, personally I think they're great and it would be hard to handle knowing every time you start your car you're taking life away from it
Awesome! Thanks for the insight. Have you talked to SP63 about the piston issue so they could address it? I will have my stuff wpc treated, but it sounds like the 4032's are going to be what I go with
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 Old 04-13-2016, 08:47 AM   #57
 
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Yeah, no problem, I spent a solid 80 hours researching pistons and options trying to make the right decision...and then another 5 months researching more wondering if I made the right decision. At this point I'm pretty confident I did. Just ran it past SP63 the other day and Pablo said they will add it to the quality checks. On the other hand you'll probably want to double check the ring lands and piston rings to be sure the clearance is there.

Also just checked out WPC treatments and that's going to be way better than the moly coating I got that will be gone in a few thousand miles. But just so you're aware the pistons dimensions might change with the WPC so don't give your pistons and block to the machinists until after they're treated.

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 Old 04-29-2016, 07:32 AM   #58
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I have 32k+ miles on my Manley pistons (2618) since September 2015. They do not slap when cold, and I live in Ohio and see sub zero temps in the winter. I do bypass cold start usually, and let the car warm up til coolant temp is 160+ before I drive, though
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 Old 04-29-2016, 09:31 AM   #59
 
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Just to clear the air on some things, you can't rate pistons by boost pressure. Cylinder pressure maybe, but that's not easy to calculate.

IMO 4032 is perfectly fine for 500whp. The material itself is stronger than 2618 at operating temp, but it is much less knock tolerant because its elasticity is a good deal lower. My recommendation would be if you are going to make a lot of power on 4032 pistons then advance power very slowly to avoid knock.
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 Old 05-16-2016, 08:34 PM   #60
 
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well I went with the 4032's, probably be a while before I get them installed, but ill come back with some reviews later
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 Old 05-16-2016, 09:20 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by sho View Post
I have 32k+ miles on my Manley pistons (2618) since September 2015. They do not slap when cold, and I live in Ohio and see sub zero temps in the winter. I do bypass cold start usually, and let the car warm up til coolant temp is 160+ before I drive, though
I'm running wiseco 2618 no slap at all. I have talked to someone at wiseco and in their opinion the pistons should last a long time. I think longevity depends on the ptw clearance. I believe they recommend different ptw for different power levels.
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 Old 05-18-2016, 05:12 AM   #62
 
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Good info here, just subscribing now as I am planning a built.
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 Old 11-28-2016, 01:58 PM   #63
 
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6 months later, how are all those built engines doing?

I'm honestly still torn on which to go with.
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 Old 11-28-2016, 02:37 PM   #64
 
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I'm running wiseco it's 2618. Car gets rarely driven, since I had issues with brakes. However, every time I start no slap at all, even on cold mornings. I called wiseco to ask about using this alloy in a daily and they reassured me it will be just fine.

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 Old 11-28-2016, 03:49 PM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by g00s3y View Post
6 months later, how are all those built engines doing?

I'm honestly still torn on which to go with.
In my case I was using a set of custom SP63 pistons made of 2618 alloy. Looks like these mofos expand a lot longitudinally and they finally came in contact with the oil squirters, even though when we built the engine they were like 3-4mm away from them.

Because I was already at 88mm I had to source a new block and paired it with the 87.5mm 4032 custom pistons from SP63.
I'm going to rebuild the old block as well after I will find a set of good sleeves (looks like I found the LA sleeves) and have a spare engine with the old 88mm pistons, fresh rings, and BS Delete because one of the squirters managed to fuck up the crank gear for the BS as well as the BS gears.

In my case I'm still using the factory intake and exhaust manifolds, so I can't simply exceed about 400-420whp because I'm flow limited by these. Believe me with 400+hp anywhere between like 4200 and 7000rpm there are very few supercars keeping up in straight line (I have a few nice victims around here, all of them have words like "GT-R", "GTS"," Hammann", "AMG", "63", and so on in their fancy names). Also with street tires there's no practical reason to go above 400-430bhp and like 620-650Nm/450-480lb*ft on a FWD chassis.

So yeah, this is where one of the builds went. Probably if we were paying more attention to the squirters clearance and would have known that 3mm is not enough right now the custom SP63 machined out of Wisecos (mine were the first gen of Sp63 custom pistons) would have probably kicked some nice supercar ass from September 'till now as well.
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 Old 12-02-2016, 10:44 AM   #66
 
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I'm on the 4032 pistons from SP63 and they're holding up pretty well as far as I can tell. As to be expected there's no noises or anything on start up however it's getting cold as balls out and kinda feels like it's lacking a little until it warms up. All in all I'm glad I went this route over 2618 because of the cold weather. As far as my build I didn't have any of the issues mituc had but I couldn't tell you how far out of the way the oil squirters were placed since I had a shop assemble the shortblock.

@mituc; you're positive that the piston made contact with the squirter and, I'm assuming, broke the squirter off? For the piston to expand 3~4mm and and seize up in the engine is pretty...remarkable. Maybe the heat from the engine helped the steel squirter to relax and creep back towards it's position?
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 Old 12-02-2016, 01:02 PM   #67
 
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Originally Posted by sailnaked6842 View Post
@mituc; you're positive that the piston made contact with the squirter and, I'm assuming, broke the squirter off? For the piston to expand 3~4mm and and seize up in the engine is pretty...remarkable. Maybe the heat from the engine helped the steel squirter to relax and creep back towards it's position?
Man, to be honest I can't really tell.
However, the custom 2618 pistons I have were machined out from some wisecos. And we know that with the wisecos, OTS or otherwise, we need to bend the squirters away a little bit more which I did not thinking that the clearance was fine (even though the mechanic working on the engine mentioned that they look pretty close).
So these being said I'm inclined to believe that I simply made a mistake during this build because I simply believed that these pistons have the squirters clearance issue resolved by the custom machining.

If your pistons are the Manley 4032 or if they're like mine but you took care of the squirters clearance you'll be probably good for a long time, until mine hit the squirters they had 0 issues, the -20C/-5Fwinter and also driving in -10C/15F weather didn't seem to have upset them in any way (piston slap, cylinder wear or anything). SP63 does an awesome job with these custom pistons.
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 Old 12-02-2016, 06:02 PM   #68
 
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I'm still a happy camper with my sp63 2618s(Mahles). Pretty much zero piston slap and thus far very little blow by. Granted you need to mind your warm ups and cool downs with this material in order to give them time to expand and seal properly. I generally idle for 10min or until I get up too a coolant temp of 100. If you are the get in and go type then 4032 is a better choice, but as long as you aren't in a rush to start up and drive I see no reason not to DD 2618s.


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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
I'm still a happy camper with my sp63 2618s(Mahles). Pretty much zero piston slap and thus far very little blow by. Granted you need to mind your warm ups and cool downs with this material in order to give them time to expand and seal properly. I generally idle for 10min or until I get up too a coolant temp of 100. If you are the get in and go type then 4032 is a better choice, but as long as you aren't in a rush to start up and drive I see no reason not to DD 2618s.


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Absolutely the reason I'd get 4032s. I wake up 3 minutes before I need to be on the road. I generally have to wake up at 1:45 AM and I have an hour drive before I get to my plant. I try and get every minute of sleep possible.


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 Old 12-02-2016, 08:39 PM   #70
 
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I've got about 20K on the Wiseco's and no problems. I'm still running the stock K04, but I run it around 30 psi as far as I can and still no problems.

PS. It's my daily driver
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 Old 12-02-2016, 10:25 PM   #71
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
I've got about 20K on the Wiseco's and no problems. I'm still running the stock K04, but I run it around 30 psi as far as I can and still no problems.

PS. It's my daily driver


I'm in the same boat as you. I daily drive my built motor stock turbo with the 2816 Mahle pistons that SP63 sells or used to sell and I haven't had any issues in the cold weather. Even in temps like -10 there is still no noise.


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 Old 01-05-2017, 09:31 PM   #72
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
I've got about 20K on the Wiseco's and no problems. I'm still running the stock K04, but I run it around 30 psi as far as I can and still no problems.

PS. It's my daily driver
Are those the 2816's?
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 Old 01-05-2017, 09:41 PM   #73
 
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@cheapspeed To answer your question, yes those Wiseco OTS are 2618 alloy pistons. I have 6k on my 2618 SP63 pro series (stock comp, stock bore, and I have stock turbo at 20psi) but not sure if they sell the same ones anymore. Mine had a coating on them (moly coating?) And I still have no noise and perfect comp on all cylinders. Sucks that Mahle stopped making them for sp63.
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 Old 01-06-2017, 06:35 PM   #74
 
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@Cheapspeed; I looked on the Wiseco and Edge websites, but can't find what material they are. Maybe @msfastashell; is right? But they do say that they coat the skirts in ArmorGlide to reduce noise, friction and allow a tighter fit.

Got them from Edge K640M875, the stock bore size - still loving them
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 Old 01-06-2017, 08:28 PM   #75
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
@Cheapspeed; I looked on the Wiseco and Edge websites, but can't find what material they are. Maybe @msfastashell; is right? But they do say that they coat the skirts in ArmorGlide to reduce noise, friction and allow a tighter fit.

Got them from Edge K640M875, the stock bore size - still loving them
What type of rods? I know you're running some crazy torque and I'm trying to get specifics to make it easier to quote.
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 Old 01-07-2017, 12:13 PM   #76
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
[MENTION=30947]I looked on the Wiseco and Edge websites, but can't find what material they are.
All forged pistons you can find on any web stores are from 2618 aluminium alloy. I think the only ones that are from 4032 can be found at SP63.

The KM640M wisecos are 2618 as well.
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 Old 01-07-2017, 06:22 PM   #77
 
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@Cheapspeed; I'm running Manley rods. So far so good. Best I can tell, they are good for more than 500 ft-lbs down low
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 Old 01-07-2017, 06:31 PM   #78
 
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Im running Cp-e stage 2's DD. I let her sit during start up until rpms drop to at least 1k.

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 Old 01-07-2017, 07:45 PM   #79
 
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@mituc;

I am using SP63 custom pistons with 88mm bored... when did you find out about the piston making contact with the oil squirter? During engine break-in? I have put 2000kms on the engine so far, with all the break in oil changes being done to keep the sparkles in the oil at bay.

2618 alloy pistons should come have a piston skirt coating on it to help with wear and piston slap. Not sure how many people cheap out on that option.
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Originally Posted by pwdunmore View Post
@mituc;

I am using SP63 custom pistons with 88mm bored... when did you find out about the piston making contact with the oil squirter? During engine break-in? I have put 2000kms on the engine so far, with all the break in oil changes being done to keep the sparkles in the oil at bay.

2618 alloy pistons should come have a piston skirt coating on it to help with wear and piston slap. Not sure how many people cheap out on that option.
On my engine the squirters broke free after about 36k kms. I rebuilt the engine at exactly 163500kms and then rebuilt it again at 199965kms, 12kms after squirters on cyls #2 and #3 fell off and one of them shaved away 3 teeth from the balance shaft gear and from the crank gear for the BS.

Occasionally I noticed that after warming up or driving hard the engine was a bit louder, but I was blaming the forged internals and "because racecar".

Those are good pistons. I'm going to reuse them in the second engine I'm going to build (with new piston rings, ofc) and we will pay more attention to the oil squirter clearance this time (at the time when we built it we thought about 3mm was tight but enough). The contact between the skirt and the cylinder wall was minimal and within acceptable limits.
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