i could be great to hear from peoples that replaced it with a solid 1 piece FW.

i used to drive a klze v6 with fidanza 11lbs, i drove the car with the oem 25lbs and also with a lighter 17 and it was wonderfull but after install of the 11lbs, the car rev like a racer bike in neutral but it was hard to start slowly from a standstill point without killing the engine.
So i think the fidanza is a race weigt or for someone that wants to drive like a kid in his first Civic.

This is why i look more for ACT but not sure on streetlite or prolite but i'm afraid of the PP clamp. Some said here that it is heavy on the pedal? i owned few month a DSM with a clutch kit ready to hold 600hp and it was very hard in the traffic. after half an hour of traffic i had my left legs so much tired to stop on the side to take a rest...I don't want that either...

The oem kit was good enought to hold 17-18 psi on my summer tire or to take 25psi on my winter ones sine i put the GT2871 but i want a clutch kit able to hold 350-400 wheel lbs of torc without needing a x-men left leg and being able to take off at the usual normal RPM.

I'm not afrraid of going away with the dual mass since i have seem a lot of cars without this using a similar configuration of tranny, fwd and low end torque

here is my original post with pictures and videos

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...4-gear-168303/

mine was completely wasted at 60k miles.

The more shit I read on here, the more I think half of the parts on my car are a ticking time bomb. Lol.

They are :)

Remember, Mazda loves you....

Lol. It's definitely a love/hate thing. Half the time I love it, the other half I'm pissed about how I need to replace X part instead of having moar fasts.

My original flywheel was severly worn at 75k, while the engine was out it made sense to replace it with a fidanza.

I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to add confirmation. I drive a 2013 MS3 with 60k miles and recently could not get the clutch to disengage when pressed. Figured it was a slave cylinder or something so I bled everything out and checked for leaks, but the lever seemed to be moving fine. So sure enough I took it to the shop and they took it apart and they said they suspect the DMF was the culprit. They showed me how it was all loose between the plates. And somehow the springs from the clutch were grinding into the flywheel as well. Small black pieces of something, probably my clutch, fell out when the pressure plate was removed.

Parts from his "usual suppliers" were going to be $400 for the clutch and $1200 for the DMF. The shop even took pity on me and said they don't like installing customer parts but in this case buying these parts would be robbery. So I got a LUK oem style clutch and the Fidanza solid flywheel for about $500 total and they installed it for me for $800.

Now it feels great. I've been driving it for about a week and I don't notice any chatter or noise. It grabs a little quicker than before, but it is no more difficult to take off from a stop than it was before.

Thank you sir bobotron-san for sharing your experience on this necro 4 year old thread. Your contribution is much appreciated and has now enlightened us with DMF knowledge. Yoda would approve.

once i get the pig running i will report back on how my stock clutch that was rebuilt and resurfaced from Falcon Clutch works out. flywheel and pressure plate were resurfaced, pressure plate rebuilt and disk relined with kevlar.