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 Old 11-09-2011, 06:19 AM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by SPEED6 KILLAH View Post
I could of lead you one of my timming tools.. As for puting lock tight on the bolt I wouldn't do that .see the problem I be seen a lot of you guy are going by my Mazda
torque spec it's cool but you have to over torque a little the spec trust me I do the shit everyday replace vvt..
That extra 90o that they tell you to turn that bolt is VERY IMPORTANT!!
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 Old 11-09-2011, 10:10 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
That extra 90o that they tell you to turn that bolt is VERY IMPORTANT!!
I will go little bit more then that extra 90o because people are do that and there still back off.

Last edited by SPEED6 KILLAH; 11-09-2011 at 11:43 AM.
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 Old 11-09-2011, 10:12 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by SPEED6 KILLAH View Post
I will go little bit more then that extra 90o because people and do that and there still back off.
This scares me lol.
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 Old 11-09-2011, 10:37 AM   #44
 
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OffTopic Noob Question:

Never done head work on an engine like this. It looks like the cams sit right on top of the valves kinda like a motorcycle engine. Everyone (SOHC) I've worked on has roller followers that pivot to push the valves down.

So question is do you have to (should you) keep track of what valve bucket goes with each cam lobe like a old flat tappet cam? Roller cams/lifters are usually lenient about what roller goes to which cam lobe, but flat tappets wear funny if they aren't matched back to their original lobe.
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 Old 11-09-2011, 11:03 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by sheldonross View Post
So question is do you have to (should you) keep track of what valve bucket goes with each cam lobe like a old flat tappet cam? Roller cams/lifters are usually lenient about what roller goes to which cam lobe, but flat tappets wear funny if they aren't matched back to their original lobe.
100% YES.


It's critical to keep each bucket in it's place and not lose track.
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 Old 11-09-2011, 11:13 AM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by SPEED6 KILLAH View Post
I will go little bit more then that extra 90o because people and do that and there still back off.
What i am worried about going too much further than that is having the bolt stretch or breaking something....I would just locktite it and then go about 100-110o
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 Old 11-09-2011, 11:27 AM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
What i am worried about going too much further than that is having the bolt stretch or breaking something....I would just locktite it and then go about 100-110o
exactly 100o to 110o nothing to crazy.. But I have also try to break a crank bolt with a f* up crank in over tq it with a 600 ft lbs air gun and I could say the threads on the crank went out and the bolt did stretch...
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 Old 11-09-2011, 11:30 AM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by SPEED6 KILLAH View Post
exactly 100o to 110o nothing to crazy.. But I have also try to break a crank bolt with a f* up crank in over tq it with a 600 ft lbs air gun and I could say the threads on the crank went out and the bolt did stretch...
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 Old 11-09-2011, 02:29 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
This scares me lol.
Yea man scary shit. Wish they had a Freaken key way lol... Idk how I'm gonna put my crank bolt in with out having any worries in my mind lol
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 Old 11-09-2011, 02:52 PM   #50
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wow what a nighmare thread....glad to see some excellent advice in here and GL with getting it going again.

imma save this in my "tech" subscriptions.
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 Old 11-09-2011, 03:02 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by LiEast View Post
Yea man scary shit. Wish they had a Freaken key way lol... Idk how I'm gonna put my crank bolt in with out having any worries in my mind lol
Once you put the lock bolt in the rear for the TDC then you can torque it all you want.. It should not move... i would not use the PIN that is normally used for doing the TDC i would use a bolt. there reason why is because i have heard they can break easily.. not sure if that is totally true or not though...


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 Old 11-09-2011, 03:10 PM   #52
 
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i got all the tools and parts ready and i should get it finished saturday... just scary... and i really hope/cant have this happen again lol
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 Old 11-09-2011, 03:44 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by LiEast View Post
i got all the tools and parts ready and i should get it finished saturday... just scary... and i really hope/cant have this happen again lol
I'll take a ride out there to make sure it alright
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 Old 11-10-2011, 08:28 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
Once you put the lock bolt in the rear for the TDC then you can torque it all you want.. It should not move... i would not use the PIN that is normally used for doing the TDC i would use a bolt. there reason why is because i have heard they can break easily.. not sure if that is totally true or not though...

Yup, i wouldn't chance it. Only use the SST for finding TDC:




Then swap it out with a normal bolt that won't bend:






Scariest part is that extra 90* to stretch the bolt:






It takes a ridiculous amount of force. Get a long bar so you don't have to work as hard, and that'll help keep things smooth and controlled. If your doing it on an engine stand, it may be helpful to have a second person help "steady" things.
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 Old 11-10-2011, 10:46 AM   #55
 
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^^^beauitful pictures with the TDC bolt... Thanks !
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 Old 11-11-2011, 10:00 PM   #56
 
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valves arent done till next week.... and family stuff this weekend... so car is getting pushed back to the week after the 18th and 19th...
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 Old 11-12-2011, 06:20 AM   #57
 
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Evan, thanks for the update bro.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 05:20 AM   #58
 
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The reason people spin these engines when replacing the crank bolt is because they forget to replace the friction washers. This is the most important part of the setup without replacing these the engine will spin once a decent bit of load is put on it even if you did the 90o turn. Locktite is not going to save you here only new friction washers and a new crank bolt. If you want to go over to 100-110o get the ARP crank bolt please. That and this bolt is reuseable.

Also Those aluminum SST are garbage they break almost every time when doing the final 90o turn. I suggest either a bolt like this guy is doing or get the steal SST. Also break the 90o turn up into 2 45o turns with a break of 5-10min in between this will give the bolt time to cool down. This was recommended to me by one of the guys over at Formula Atlantic.

If you want a keyway done there is options The sprockets on these cross reference over to the exact same part # that the mz3 duratec 2.3L have meaning the cosworth keyed sprocket will work for these engines. I have done this on a few cranks so far about to do the first onto a speed crank in a few weeks. Ultimate peace of mind is knowing you won't spin timing.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 08:42 AM   #59
 
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I can't believe that it isn't keyed from the get go.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 12:16 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by pinkcheese View Post
If you want a keyway done there is options The sprockets on these cross reference over to the exact same part # that the mz3 duratec 2.3L have meaning the cosworth keyed sprocket will work for these engines. I have done this on a few cranks so far about to do the first onto a speed crank in a few weeks. Ultimate peace of mind is knowing you won't spin timing.
Link for those interested:

Crankshaft Sprocket - Engine Components - Cosworth USA






I think i'll try this on the motor i'm assembling soon as well. Thanks pink for the idea!
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 Old 11-14-2011, 12:31 PM   #61
 
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Heads up that sprocket is the first piece you want to get ahold of before making any atempts at keying this crank there is a ton of lead time from cosworth I have been waiting on one for about a month and a half now. The first block I did it only took me about 2 weeks but as the demand has risen the availability has shrunken.

Here is a picture of my MZR crankshaft with the keyway and a sprocket. Something that is miss leading to some machinest and clarify this with them is that the orientation of the sprocket doesn't matter due to the cams not being keyed only thing that matters is the keway in regards to the crank pulley these need to be aligned for TDC. The one pictured is about 1.5degrees off which I have compensated for.

About to do 2 more of these one for a ms3 block I will be building soon and another MS3 crank for my own use.

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 Old 11-14-2011, 12:34 PM   #62
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I want one now, hahahaha.

Maybe next spring i'll build up my spare motor, and actually do some head work this time.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 12:42 PM   #63
 
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This is nice as well, my birthday is coming up soon so feel free to pick one up for me.PM me for mailing address.

Duratec crankshaft - Cosworth USA
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 Old 11-14-2011, 12:45 PM   #64
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I think that crank has the wrong rod journals. Not 100% sure though...

Because i needed oversized rod bearings initially, i ordered a set of duratech 2.3L bearings for giggles, to see if they would fit. They were significantly smaller than the mazda ones
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 Old 11-14-2011, 12:52 PM   #65
 
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Oh well, they do make some sweet stuff. What about their cams would they work for our motor?
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 Old 11-14-2011, 01:10 PM   #66
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Lol, i guess the exhaust cam would probably work. But that's it.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 07:01 PM   #67
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
when i took my chain off i just put a bolt in the upper plug hole and then i loosened the cam sprocket and took the chain off and once the chain was off then i took the cams out. Once the cams were out the valves were all closed so can rotate the crank all i want since none of the valve can hit. So
so when you put the bolt on the upper plug hole does the bolt actually press the chain guide (rib) or the chain?
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 Old 11-15-2011, 09:00 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by 11cruzito11 View Post
so when you put the bolt on the upper plug hole does the bolt actually press the chain guide (rib) or the chain?
The guide ribs.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:16 AM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The guide ribs.
I think I'm going to try this beforing pulling the timing cover off.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:17 AM   #70
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Do it man. Should be much much easier. That's the whole reason the blind plugs are there.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:35 AM   #71
 
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I was talking to my friend . He said there is a kit out there that u can key a crank with.
I dont know the whole info, but you time the engine and then drill a hole through the pully into the crank and place a pin in it .or some shit like that.
sounds kinda ghetto though.
ill try to find more info about it.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:44 AM   #72
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That wouldn't help with keying the sprockets though... just the pulley. The slot key shown above keys it all.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 11:14 AM   #73
 
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True ..
Lol
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 Old 11-15-2011, 08:16 PM   #74
 
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Ordered the valves on thurday and they won't be here till this Thursday and streetunit sent them to my billin address not the shippin adress... So I have to get them to the shop (2hours away) hopefully on Friday and they can finish the head before they are closed for the weekend.. I just get fucked every way possible with this one huh?
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:56 PM   #75
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Maybe it's fate intentionally buying you time so you can key your crank, haha.

Or just shitty luck... Probably shitty luck... sigh.
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 Old 11-18-2011, 10:49 PM   #76
 
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Got the head back this morning all nicey nice... Spend the day putting it all back together (takes alot longer then taking it out lol)... Spent some time on the timing making sure Everything was good.

Couple of pointers I wante to say but to tried to remember I got it all set started to crank it over and battery was dead, and it started pissing out fuel from the big nut under the pump.... Gave up and tomorrow is another day .... I'll have to pull the pump make sure it's seated right...
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 Old 11-19-2011, 03:39 AM   #77
 
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Originally Posted by LiEast View Post
Got the head back this morning all nicey nice... Spend the day putting it all back together (takes alot longer then taking it out lol)... Spent some time on the timing making sure Everything was good.

Couple of pointers I wante to say but to tried to remember I got it all set started to crank it over and battery was dead, and it started pissing out fuel from the big nut under the pump.... Gave up and tomorrow is another day .... I'll have to pull the pump make sure it's seated right...
Double check your work ...
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 Old 11-19-2011, 06:16 AM   #78
 
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DID YOU HAND TURN THE MOTOR 2 ROTATIONS BEFORE YOU TRY TO START IT??????????


This is done just to make sure that your timing is good and your valves wont collide!!!
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 Old 11-19-2011, 08:08 AM   #79
 
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Double check?!? I'm tripple checkin! I did rotated it with my hands 3 rotations
an no "dinks" noises, spun freely.
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 Old 11-20-2011, 07:48 AM   #80
 
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so far its running all good... i got a bad tap in one of the valve caps soo annonying! we see maybe it will fade away
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