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 Old 02-03-2012, 09:17 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by WhoIsJeremy View Post
That's what I'm saying. But we used to factory flywheel bolts. I'm guessing they just weren't torqued enough. I guess I'll get brand new bolts and use maybe red loctite? i don't want them bitches stuck in there forever though
This is what i'm going to do on the next one... and i feel you on the red loctite... I figure if i have to ever pull it again down the road, i'll just heat the fuck out of the bolt heads with some MAPP gas or something, and loctite shouldn't be too difficult to break loose.
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 Old 02-03-2012, 09:19 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
This is what i'm going to do on the next one... and i feel you on the red loctite... I figure if i have to ever pull it again down the road, i'll just heat the fuck out of the bolt heads with some MAPP gas or something, and loctite shouldn't be too difficult to break loose.
Fuck it. I'll just use the red ish. I bought a mini torch because I couldnt get a bolt out of my diff to put the mount on and didn't wanna get heat anywhere else. i might as well set myself up to use it! Should I go to a Mazda parts dept for the bolts?
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 Old 02-03-2012, 09:59 AM   #43
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Yup. They're like $6 a piece, or something like that. I always just call my local parts department, and usually they can get them in within a day or two.
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 Old 02-03-2012, 10:07 AM   #44
 
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But I need them meow! Hopefully they can have em tomorrow
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 Old 02-03-2012, 11:42 AM   #45
 
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I read the FIRST POST about dustin and his flywheel bolts being HAND TIGHT... But DJ do you feel like the flywheel bolts being loose caused the NOISE? I thought you were saying that due to the clutch being made wrong and out of spec that the pressure plate bolts were hitting the bell housing that was causing the noise.. Now with the flywheel being loose that MIGHT have contributed to the noise but if that flywheel was that loose that it will cause that loud of noise with that much torque from driving it alone would possible rip the threads out the crank..

Jeremy about the fork...what i am saying is when you pulled the fork outward to put the TOB on there is a wire that is attached to a ball that is welded to the tranny housing and it is not that hard to pull that wire off that ball or have the wire come off the fork itself during installation. This is the reason i ask you to check the forks tension. Because there is nothing to bring the fork away from the pressure plate other than that wire attached to the fork... Sorry i dont know the name of that part....
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 Old 02-03-2012, 11:46 AM   #46
 
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I'm praying it's either a) the flywheel is loose and just needs to be tightened and isn't damaged or b) throw out bearing is fucked and maybeeee act will cover costs of a new one considering it's been in my car for 510 babied miles?

She's going in the air tomorrow and hopefully I will have her running by tomorrow night.
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 Old 02-03-2012, 12:00 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by WhoIsJeremy View Post
I'm praying it's either a) the flywheel is loose and just needs to be tightened and isn't damaged or b) throw out bearing is fucked and maybeeee act will cover costs of a new one considering it's been in my car for 510 babied miles?

She's going in the air tomorrow and hopefully I will have her running by tomorrow night.
Good luck....
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 Old 02-03-2012, 12:04 PM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
Good luck....
Thanks, I need it. lol depending on how fucked up it is, I might just let it sit, take off what i can, wait for it to snow and total it lol I'd get a check for 5k over what i payed plus mods! haha
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 Old 02-03-2012, 12:08 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by WhoIsJeremy View Post
Thanks, I need it. lol depending on how fucked up it is, I might just let it sit, take off what i can, wait for it to snow and total it lol I'd get a check for 5k over what i payed plus mods! haha
if you need help let me know and i will see what can do to down there to help you..
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 Old 02-03-2012, 03:56 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
I read the FIRST POST about dustin and his flywheel bolts being HAND TIGHT... But DJ do you feel like the flywheel bolts being loose caused the NOISE? I thought you were saying that due to the clutch being made wrong and out of spec that the pressure plate bolts were hitting the bell housing that was causing the noise.. Now with the flywheel being loose that MIGHT have contributed to the noise but if that flywheel was that loose that it will cause that loud of noise with that much torque from driving it alone would possible rip the threads out the crank..
My conclusion is that when the PP / FW contacted the bell housing, it set the stage for what followed. I torqued my FW to 118 ft/lbs, with brand new fw bolts (which come with loctite on them, but probably no where near as good as red loctite).

There were 2 noises essentially. The initial noise, from contact with the bell housing, and 4500 miles later... of the loose FW.
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 Old 02-03-2012, 06:12 PM   #51
 
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Buying lots of red loctite tonight

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 Old 02-05-2012, 06:50 PM   #52
 
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i don't buy fw loose, the cromeolley makes a hell of a high pitch tinging sound, my money is on botched tob install

or did you pull the bell housing together with bolts, as this would bend the clutch disk and make hella noise

just installed one of these this weekend worked flawless

also used red locktight cause the bolts go trough the crank, and oil could come down the threads, so i also added locktight to seal it up good
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 Old 02-05-2012, 08:55 PM   #53
 
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Flywheel was loose. Every bolt I took out with my hand. Put em back in with red loctite and its perfect. I do here some chatter but only when my hood is popped. I'm going to assume that's just the 6 puck chatter. Flywheel looks like I broke it in perfect though



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 Old 02-05-2012, 09:07 PM   #54
 
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i love happy endings...
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 Old 02-05-2012, 09:25 PM   #55
 
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well ill be go to hell !

my speakers suck, so must not come trough good on my end

glad you got it handled, the noise you're hearing is gear lash / chatter, that is what that 2 piece fw is for, to cover that up

i hope you breakcleaned the crap out of the holes, to clean the oil out to get a good cure on the red locktight

and i also think they have you replace them every time, is for the sealant to actually reseal the crank properly not that the bolts are bad
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

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at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

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 Old 02-06-2012, 07:24 AM   #56
 
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wow congrats glad you got it fixed!!!
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365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade
track weight 3220
street weight 3370
fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport
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