Free Brand new engine from Mazda !!! Best day of my life !!!

NICE! Got lucky there for sure.

Here is my blown motor info
Car; 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 with 49000 miles.
Cylinder; #3
Damage; Tossed Rod. Hole in block rear. Rod #3
RPM; 2200
Mods; CPE Cold Air, CX Racing Front Mount, PG Super K04, Turbo XS Downpipe/racepipe HKS Hi power catback, Rebuild Fuel Pump,
Exhaust Manifold; Tubular
Situation; It blew right after hitting traction control in 1rst, less then 1/4 throttle leaving a stop light. At first it was just a spun rod bearing, Mechanic turned it on to hear it, ran for 15 seconds then rod 3 punched a hole in the back of the block.
Warranty; Powertrain, but i doubt they will honor it
Oil; 500 miles 10w30 Mobil one

Anyone know where to find a shortblock? I am still debating going forged, may detune the car some, either way I have to fix and sell it, I am PCSing overseas, can't take it with me.

shiiiiiiiiiit Negro, that's all you had to say!!


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What tuning solution? Who tuned it? Targets? Driving behavior? How long at that level of modification?

shitty. put another stock motor in there and tune it the right way.

thats gotta be like the 10th time someone has said they turned it on one more time "just to hear it" or "just to move it out of the driveway" then KABOOM.

Stock tune? I doubt it was a rod bearing. It was probably a bent rod.

Nice 1st post. You should have been on here a long time ago and you might have been able to avoid your situation!

got the car at 50k: 57k, hole in cylinder #4, mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 less than 1k on new oil and filter.

Was driving to work at 4:30 with intake temps of about 30 F. I knew the thermostat was going out, threw a coolant temp too low code a couple days before, bought the new stat and everything, was gonna put it in that weekend. did a mild 5th gear pull at about 50% throttle up to about 4.5 k and dropped it back into 6th. about 2 seconds transpire and the thing lurched so hard i almost hit my face on the wheel. it was vibrating pretty bad. ap said cyl 4 was misfiring but the car was running. drove about a mile and pulled off to find no coolant or oil in it. currently awaiting a response from mazda tomorrow.

Mods:

K&N SRI, cobb TIH, SU rear motor mount, AP 91 oct K&N SRI + TIH, cheap cheezy oil catch can, limo tint and a bitchin sound system :biggrin:

Lol@mobil1

lol if you send it to the dealer w/ all the mods in there.

That is what I had.
I dont think it had anything to do with your thermostat being stuck open by the way.

My service writer doesn't know much but she mentioned them doing additional inspection relating to one of the "rods". My first thought was are they taking the whole head off? I guess I'll find out tomorrow. You guys think they're gonna make a big deal about an intake, turbo inlet and oil catch system?

If they ask for oil change receipts, they'll probably give you flack for the mods, but they have to then prove that those mods caused the problem.

They asked for those before they even called corporate but I have them. I'm going to argue that I could emulate that kind of power gain that was achieved with those mods by dropping the temperature to zero degrees. Either way I have an extended service contract. Can I expect them to pay for it if mazda refuses?

or be smart and ask them what the difference between your intake and say, a mazdaspeed CAI which they sell is..

and most contracts for extended service have a footnote that covers there ass if you touch anything under the hood

warranty solutions is coming to inspect it tomorrow. mazda gave me shit for the ecu config. has anyone dealt with this situation??

Many Many people have dealt with this situation....odds are bleak. I got a reimbursement on my Extended service contract when a friedn thats a mechanic told me that the extended contract inspectors are more Nazi's than the OEM people.

What ECU config? Did you have an AP in there or something? If you did, then you're not very bright to expect them to pay for anything.

If you ever visited any car forum before, you would know to try and go as stock as possible to the dealer if it's a specific problem that might be caused by mods. A blown engine and you're talking bringing the car to stock engine-wise to even begin the process. People stock their car out THEN bring it to the dealer.

Now you probably paid for a $3500 warranty that won't give you shit...

What if they insured the car already modified?

They'll have no problems taking your money.
Getting any of it back is where they draw the line.

and i do not see an AP so im assuming you were on stock tune with upgrade stock turbo...not smart. actually, pretty dumb

Figures.

I'm going to contact mazda this morning. This engine blew due to an obvious lack of judgement on the part of mazda's engineering team by recycling manufacturing techniques that may be sufficient for a non-turbo 2.3 liter 4 cylinder but not for a 263 hp turbo platform, a scene mazda is new to and has very little experience in prior to 2007 (at these boost levels). They had a choice to use high quality materials when assembling internals and they failed us. I will hold Mazda accountable and they will put a new engine in this car at no cost to me. I'm going ape shit here. This is not my fault, I don't have to money to fix it, and I could lose my job because of this. Mazda has the resources to repair this and they will if its the last thing I do in this life, so help me god.:zx11pissed:

We have have guys making over 500whp on stock internals.
What's wrong with our internals?
A bad tune is a bad tune. Plane and simple.

Our motors rock, your wanton modding with no planning and research was the tesla son thus motor blew.


Edit: lulz, love auto correct "tesla son thus" bitch!... "was the reason this" motor blew.

These failures are occurring in 6th gear at 60mph out of boost from bone stock to fully modified. 5000 to 90000 miles. They fail indiscriminately across the board. Its a bad engine in comparison to what I could have gotten had I not bought this car. Don't get me wrong I love the speed 3 and would like nothing more than to drive it till the wheels fall off. But Mazda designed a bad engine and those that haven't exploded yet are ticking time bombs. There was a point in time when this came to Mazda's attention where they needed so many of these they were back ordered from Japan for months and the faster option was to have them machined and rebuilt as opposed to going through re-manufacturing. The whole thing is borderline class action at this point.

I disagree wholeheartedly.

You modified without doing proper research and likely ran out of fuel pressure from the hpfp, but had no way of knowing because you HAD NO ENGINE MANAGEMENT.

this would happen on ANY car. take a 2jz, upgrade what you did, add bigger turbo, but use factory tune and you'll blow a 2j.

AP 91 oct K&N SRI + TIH installed an operational at the time of failure.

Edit: disregard following, I got you mixed up with the super ko4 guy who was quoted a few post back... Still, we have good motors.... They just need some proper loving.

• it didn't happen at 2000 rpms at 60mph. It finally ended there. It happened long before that.
• MOST (not every) "stock" incident was not really stock.
• protégée garage super ko4 has failed many people.
• no pump has failed many people.
• catless ko4 without pump and proper tune... No bueno.
• no proper tune. A tune should have been your first mod.
• AND taking te car to Mazda before stockig out... Super bad idea

New stis are ticking time bombs, ms3s are not. We have BTs that have hit over 100000 miles.

You are simply pissed and looking for someone to blame.

Tesla son thus!

I didn't realize there was an uninstall option at the time i took it in. but MAYBE 10% hp was added at best. Factory internals should be resilient against at least 25% gains for any vehicle just to ensure reliability.

ap was the first mod btw

Yeah dude, my bad, I just woke up and have a tendency of having reading fail this early... I though you were the super ko4 modded brownie quoted a few post back.

I don't know what happened. But with the high number of members on this site and the fact that blown motors are far and few between these days (most incidents on this thread are before we had figured the tuning out) it's really been shown that our motors are strong and Idk what happened to yours. But many members are making more power than yu for many many miles with no problems.

Good luck.

It's not the HP. It's the detonation that breaks shit. Bad tune = detonation.

I see you're running a bigger turbo so I'm assuming you're way past the factory AP tunes. Are you implying that the factory AP tunes caused this?

Idk about spilly, but chimmike is running a big turbo and self tunes.

I am running a bigger turbo too and am at 350-360whp and self tune... And I have been over 300whp for 20k

The problem for the most part is a calibration issue/tune issue with these cars. Took a while to figure this out - the newest COBB maps and 2010 plus cars address these problems but prior to this some cars blew and will continue to blow.

If it was stock, then Mazda would have taken care of it. If it's not they wash their hands ... it's on you to know what to do to address the highway detonation issue and others mentioned such as fuel pump etc.

you bought a car with 50,000 miles. to assume that it was 100% when you bought it is flawed logic. it's quite possible there was something wrong with it when you bought it and it would have died regardless of what you did.

that said, you potentially screwed yourself by taking it to mazda with the AP attached.

it sucks, but sometimes shit happens.

Well I guess I can post up mine.

Car - 2007 MS6 34xxx miles
Cylinder - #3, #4
Damage - Cracked 3rd cylinder, thrown rod #3, bent rod #4, piston #3 shattered, no block damage other than cracked sleeve.
RPM - dunno, highish tho. Above 3k for sure.
Mods - 3" SRI, bolt-on iwg GT3071, custom fmic, TS BOV, pnp stock IM, DNP mani, CPE catless single exit TBE, Jon Martin HPFP internals, CPE SB2
Exhaust Manifold - DNP
Situation - Still hadn't tuned after the BT install and was still waiting on my boost controller. Was trying to baby the car until I got tuned (didn't have the time at the time to tinker with the SB2). Got on the throttle a little too much one evening. Spiked at 30+ lbs, tore rod #3 right in half. Threw part of it straight down but my oil pan baffle took all the brunt of impact so I had no oil pan or block damage other than cracking the 3rd cylinder. 2 bent intake valves on cylinder #3 but everything else checks out ok.
Warranty - lol
Oil - Ran RP for years, Changed every 3mo or 3k miles faithfully. Recently switched to Rotella T6.

Yeah mine was pretty much laziness. :shrug:

2006 speed6 early production number.
Cylinder ?
RPM ~3000
miles- 82xxx
mods- cp-e CAI, test pipe, GHL catback
situation- coming out of parking lot and coming up to speed, the BOOOM! No warning whatsoever, no noise just boom

Why would anyone with an extended warranty take it tp the dealer after blowing an engine? Im taking mine to a local tuner shop and they are going to return everything to stock before calling the extended warranty co. i'll see what happens.

no tune or fp with intake & tp??

Another 1st time poster who could have avoided blowing up if they would have spent some time here.

Damn should I take off my tp then? Don't have hpfp or tune just a Sri and tip with a tp I'm getting nervous now

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Have a way to watch your di pressure?

If you have no way of monitoring what's going on with your car, for all you know, squirrels could be nesting inside one of your cylinders and you wouldn't know. Until the engine blows that is, then you will.

This sucks....don't have anything to monitor I'm not going wot anymore till I get my hands on an AP

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Bummer man.

Wait a minute...

Yeah, i didn't know about the CAI and TP needing to be tuned, wont make that mistake again.

I ran this setup with no tune for at least 30-40k miles.

SRI/CAI and TP dont cause detonation lol. Just watch your FP.

I dont get it lol fail...





But I think the gendone is not as sensitive as the genpu which is what I have...right or wrong?:confused:

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The genpu is more robust - the stock tune is more robust that is.

You have an Android phone.

Here's a thread with relevant info:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru.../torque-70662/

Wow that's awesome but from what I see is that they don't have the PIDS for genpu

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Lex, not to negate you, but when the genpu tune see di pressure <1600 psi at wot, it tries dumping even more fuel which taxes the cdfp even more and the downward spiral begins.

I am speaking in general. The Genpu stock tune is a little more robust than gen1 - they dealt with some of the issues and hence a lot fewer blown motors.

Oh, gotcha.

Update on my story: I convinced Mazda to replace it for me but now after talking to the tech I think I could possibly have another problem. The tech mentioned that he drove it into the bay twice on 3 cylinders. Which was fine and dandy I suppose but he said after the partial tear down he never put oil back in it and rolled it back into the spot where it was parked. When the people from warranty solutions came out for the inspection he tried to move it again with NO oil -___- he said he made it about 10 feet before it completely seized. I have 2 concerns. First, the radiator dumped all its coolant and water into the engine which means there's probably coolant in the turbo. Second when he ran it without oil, was that starving my turbo of oil?? I realize he wasn't boosting in the 20 feet to the bay but could that cause a problem? I'm thinking not but I wanted your guy's opinion. I didn't bring it up in front of him, I was planning on bringing it up with the service manager if necessary. I'm more worried about coolant sitting in the turbo for the last 2 weeks. Any input would be appreciated.

I pulled a zoomzoomboom the other night

2006 mazdaspeed6
stock manifold
2.5k rpms
20 mph in second
under no acceleration
mods: sri, hybrid bov (full recirc), tp, 1 step colder plugs
cylinder 1 with holes in the front and back of the block, and cracked oil pan
73k miles
no warranty

How did you monitor your car?

Best thing that could of happend to you. Now dealer really owns the problem.

Who gives a shit about the cheap turbo that guy cooked the main bearings. Dude you now should demand a new engine and while your at it shake the hand of the warranty solutions guy. Maybe even give him a christmas present and consider yourself a lucky bastard. If your not comfortable confronting them since I don't know you get someone who is to go down and confront the dealer and the warranty guy. If you don't you're a chump.

You're*

+!

View image: 383999 283523568349792 154951461207004 739465 10

Didn't... only for a month or two though. I was getting an AP though and then this happened..

Lol.

The MS6s with the higher loads that can be generated by the AWD and the aggressive OEM tune often end up in this situation.

Let me ask you this - after you were cruising on the highway and you got on the throttle, did the car stutter at first and then take off? Was this something that happened the first time you got on the throttle and you couldn't replicate it unless you cruised for another 15+ minutes?

It happened when I initially bought the car, cel came on saying random misfire. Replaced the plugs with step colder plugs and the problem went away. Never hesitated again and the car pulled great. That's why I'm baffled

Often a slightly tweaked rod takes a while for it to finally yield.

It had nothing to do with his random misfire code does it? Cuz I've gotten a random misfire code sporadically (actually all the time now in cold weather) on cold start ever since going eth and ported vct delete intake Mani. I've gotten the code for like 7 months.

A random misfire code can have many sources so that's hard to say. Heavy stuttering, esp at WOT and associated with heavy KR is what I would worry about.

I can confirm that these cars car run great with a bent rod. The computer is REALLY good at masking the problem. I got lucky and found mine before i made a window.

A good tell that there is a problem is a big drop in timing. My car a WOT was running over -10°.

This info is too late to help you so i will just say i am sorry.

I had this problem in cold weather so bad I couldn't go over 5k. Fixed it with a set of itv22's and like a .28 -.30 gap. previous owner had some shitty autozone plugs gapped at like .51 in there. Hope the answer to yours is as simple as mine was.

sry when i said they are replacing "it" i meant the engine. but now do i need a new turbo??

Didn't get my hands on a monitoring device quite quick enough. Another reason it should be the first thing you buy... just a heads up to other people.

2010 Blown!
 

2010 Mazdaspeed 3
18,500 miles at time of blow out.
Cylinder 1 punched a hole through the block and oil pan

Ran less than 15miles or so total before it blew.
See my detailed write up for all the info.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-my-car-99745/

Well....my car is now in the zoom zoom boom category too! Car has been running perfect. Started up and drove about 1.5 miles. Light acceleration and shift from 1-2 probably around 3000 rpm and poof! Smoke and parts under the hood and oil all over the road. Here is what I have:

2007
98000 miles
Amzoil since new
CAI only mod

Now on to find a new engine. Not sure whether to go new short block or used low miler.

Doing research now.

So I started the tear down....looks like a TON of oil in all cylinders. Hole in side of front of block, looks like at cylinder 3. The oil is VERY thick, unlike the oil in the head which looks pretty good (Mobil1). I am having problems understanding how the oil ended up in every cylinder. Oil looks to be isolated to the engine side of the throttle body and it pooled after the engine went. It is only on the bottom of the pipe and hose, so I suspect it was not being sucked in thru the throttle body from the turbo and none is in the intercooler. The oil is consistent in the intake manifold and the EGR tube.

Called around today to get some quotes on engines. Dealer quoted a long block and said it was a complete engine. Price was quite reasonable, all things considered. He was unsure what complete engine meant, but he said that the footnote said "complete assembly, no gaskets required". He was unsure how complete the assembly is. He is going to call Mazda tomorrow and inquire.

Anyone know what "complete assembly" means for a long block 2.3 from Mazda? Is it a typical long block? or will it have fuel rails and valve cover and oil pan, etc? Not sure how it will require no gaskets if it doesnt have manifolds on it?

Will likely have valve cover and oil pan. Probably both manifolds.
Probably won't have a turbo.
How do you direct link to a specific post on this forum?

So in your blowed up post, you said amsoil since new.
Then in your picture post, you said mobil1. ...?

Pretty sure oil choice had little to do with this.

Sorry about the Amsoil confusion. I know the original owner and have receipts for oil changes for the first 55K. It was Amsoil. I have changed with Amsoil until the last oil change about 4K ago. It now has 98K. Just getting damn expensive to pay $85 for oil changes every month. Put about 3k each month on the car. Went with Mobil 1 just this last oil change. Dont think it had anything to do with it, just the oil that is in the manifold looks like trash. I have never seen anything like it. It is like molases. I wonder if is just because it got all mixed with coolant when the engine went it got all nasty. But it is marked different than that in the top of the head.

My hope is that the long block will have the manifold, etc. It will then need to have the fuel rail and all the other crap that I would like to have new. He said he believes it is a accessory change and bolt up....I should know tomorrow afternoon....if it is a complete assembly, I will be picking this up from the dealer...he quoted around $4k (no turbo included) and can get it for me in 2 days. It also comes with a 12k/12 month warranty. The best I have seen on a new short block is about $2100 online from Mazda. New head $1200. Head bolt and gasket set another ~$400....assembly $$$...Seems like a no brainer if I want to go new. I am still entertaining a used engine and am looking for one of those too.

Long blocks are typically just full bottom and top ends with no manifolds and a flywheel; the rest has to be swapped from the existing powerplant.

Full bottom end? That's a short block.

@06Speed6 might have an engine built for less than that.
Unless it's sold.

My post says full bottom *and* top ends. That would be a long block.

My fail.

@cplensdorf
Maybe I missed something, is there anything wrong with your head? Why cant you reuse it?

Got some quotes today and some more info on the dealer replacement.

Dealer long block is similar to what Enki said. It will come with all new OEM parts, block, internals, front cover and timing, oil pump. They cannot provide info on the oil pan and valvel cover. Still looking into that. $3800 . Can get in two days. no shipping/no core. Still need gasket set and move all accessories, manifolds, fuel rail, etc. 12month/12000 mile warranty.

Found a few used with 60K+. These are looking like $3000+ for complete, usually minus turbo and accessories. Many come with warranty of 30 days to 1 year. Still need to move accessories, manifolds, etc. Condition not known until i get it to house. Nearest ones are over 100 miles from house. Most are 200 plus miles away.

Found one rebuilt through Precision Engine out of Texas. They want 2095 for a remanufactured long block plus $500 core (mine is bad), plus $225 to ship. Thats $2820 shipped remanufactured. They include gasket set to finish. They claim to have been around for 70 years and have a great reputation. They offer a 3 year 36000 mile warranty on the engine. He mentioned Topline as the components that they use. Never heard of them.

A few questions:

Anyone herad of Precision Engine? Had experience with them?
Anyone familiar with Topline components?

Still looking and pondering my options.

BTW - the head may or may not be good still. Would definitely need a clean and check though.

Long blocks usually come with internals protected (I.E. with valve covers and oil pans).

Yes long block will come with oil pan and valve cover from the dealer. And that is without manifolds.

Tappin

I guess my concern is whether the motor will come with the old valve cover or the new one? The new one is part of the TSB intake kit but it is only part of it. Not sure if the other parts can be obtained without paying $400 for the kit.

...So steal it off the old motor?

I would steal it off the old one, but I would like to install this with the new one and have the revised PCV system...Some have had better luck with it. Its $400+.

$4K including labor, from an actual dealer with a warranty? That sounds pretty reasonable to me. Sorry about your car, though. I bought my 09 new and the engine is stock. The car will be sold before the powertrain warranty expires, I've already had enough trouble with the clunky suspension. Love the car but I don't have the cash flow or credit line to just plunk a new motor in it. Rather put that towards a new car, and the MS3 still has pretty good resale value.

Anyway, best of luck, and thanks for your story. Hope it turns out well for you.

I wish it was $4k installed....it is $4K pick up and installed by me.

where in texas are they? post up in the nator TX section and see if you get any hits.

There are some calibration issues in the Gen1 cars that lead to the dreaded zoom zoom boom in most cases. On top of this, any 4 cylinder motor making 280 ft lbs of torque will be more prone to "issues" versus one making half that.

Can't have your cake and eat it too but you can get pretty close with the proper care and tune of the vehicle. Widespread fear that the MS3 is a ticking time bomb is largely unfounded.

Yeah Lex...I agree, but when it happens to your own car and you think that you have taken good care of it, it kind of blows the "unfounded" part of it right out the window :)

I agree with you - when it happens personally it sucks. But what's done is done after all, use it as a learning experience and resolve the situation as best you can.

My reply was directed at some of the blown motor hysteria that was rampant over a year ago and that thankfully has calmed down.

Q:

When I bought my car I had it inspected at a Mazda dealer. They told me that my turbo was blown but that it was covered under warranty.

I bought the car (From a non-Mazda dealership) and took it to another dealership closer to home, who told me that my turbo was fine and that they couldn't authorize a replacement.

My turbo isn't smoking - but it smoked the day I had it inspected. Is it possible for OTHER things to cause the exhaust to have produced smoke once and then be fixed? I have driven the car HARD and am unable to get it to smoke - even if I let it idle 10 minutes after driving it over 100 and alternately hard from a stop (Hard stop and go driving for 30 minutes).

Thoughts?

Just ordered my new long block from Mazda...$3500 new. Not horrible. Should have it on thursday. Can't wait.