damn blink, you blew after i sold you the AP?

This thread is making me depressed. I just bought a 2010 Speed3

should have done your homework.

Keep an open perspective. The number of motors that have popped are a small percentage. The car is actually pretty impressive. The support from North American Operations is at best incompetent. Just be aware that Mazda NAO will be looking for any reason available to void a large warranty claim.


Keep it stock, drive it safely and sensibly and good luck. If it fails be prepared to stick by your rights. Stock motors have failed too.

and keep looking here for new updates!

Like the many members have said, this post makes a lot of members worried. I just picked up a 2010 ms3 and I would hate to have to deal with a blown motor (the hassel going to the dealer and hoping the claim doesn't get voided for whatever reason)

I haven't seen any 2010 blown motors (probably too soon to tell) but do you guys think Mazda would have fix the problem with the 2010 models????

Mazda accepts no official responsibility of a design or manufacturing defect for the MS3/MS6/CX7 motors.

Mazda did replace my motor under warranty though.

No.

Blown Engines MS3
 

So mazda isnt covering most of these blown engines under the 5 year 50,000 mile warranty? or is it because people arent returning the cars back to stock before taking them to the dealership???

Usually the dealership makes claim that modification cause the damage. Even vehicles that have been returned to stock have been denied as Mazda claimed they could tell it had been modified.

I showed up to the dealership with Sri, tbe and bpv still installed and they warrantied my engine. It really depends where you take your vehicle.

what do u guys think this is i got oil coming up bad threw dipstick i think the crankcase is cloged what can be the couse

Obviously pressure is building up. Either your rings or head gasket are passing badly or like you said above, your PVC (system) is plugged. I would start by removing the PVC setup and running a straight through hose to see if it stops. If it doesn't, get a compression/leakdown test done.

Just a couple ideas.

I wouldn't try that. You will blow your dipstick out.
The PCV valve should prevent boost from getting to the crank case, if it is damaged it may not. If you remove it you are filling your CC with boost.

Try:
1) replace PCV valve with new one
if that doesnt fix it
2) compression/leakdown test

So All these blown engines are freaking me out a bit, is it happening on the modded out speed's, and whats and EDUCATED response to why these are so "common"

it happens to modded and stock speed3's. Its a design flaw inside the engine. supposably mazda fixed it or made it better in 08.5 and up

I ran without a Pcv for months. My dipstick never blew out. If it was failing to open however, it would prevent pressure from leaving the crank case. Your air intake is always at atmospheric pressure or vacuum. It may see something slighty above atmospheric (guessing less than 1psi) when the bpv opens.

It is more likely blow by from rings not sealing properly causing his dipstick to blow out.

With the Mazdaspeed3??

Yes, with the mazdaspeed3.

What specifically changed on the 8.5?

they tightened up some clearances to prevent crank walk or some shit.

Hmm, I still lean towards Lex's theory of the injectors spraying fuel on the far cylinder wall. It made sense considering the problems I had.

so by 8.5 and up, do u mean cars birth date or by car year, i have an 08, but it was made in 07.. how do i know is mines an 8.5

if it was purchased in 07 then its an early 08. The 08.5 probably started to come out by early to mid year of 2008. I'm sure there's a way to check either by vin or on a tag off the car. I'm not familiar with mazda (this is my first) but my previous bmw you were able to check by the vin - there was this site I would go on "realoem" made just for bmw and if you type in your vin you get all the basic info of your model plus when it was built (month and year).

no theres no need to check your vin, if its an 08.5 you have piano black interior and different seats, also white was only made starting in 08.5

cool, thanks, And Whos had there engine rebuilt, and how much did it cost.... What exactly was done

mines got the metalic gray interior around the radio and on the doors. So its the shity 08?

i wouldnt say its shitty theres plenty of pre 08.5 that made power, the newer ones are just less prone to crank walk

whats the best way to beat that? new injectors. fuel pump, and good tune?

I waited 15 minutes before I started putting the Mods to this car. This car and engine were made to mod. Best base I have ever worked from. Yea I have blown engines before and a few transmissions (other platforms) but WTH this car is crazy fun to drive and have yet to hurt it. Wasted my tires in 10,000 miles. I have had more smiles per mile than any other car. If you are concerned about it leave it stock still fun, but if you have 5K you can turn this car into the terror of the neighborhood. The platform has issues...so what.... so does everthing else.

Some explain what crank walk is?

its when ur rods pack there bags and leave, here is a pic of what it looks like
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...4/23blowup.gif

LoL i know the side effect, im talking about what it really is. I dont understand that. And is it just caused from upgrading the breathing mods on the car? And another quick question, i installed the SRI, and im curious as to if this will cause the car to run lean without a re-tune, or if by unplugging the battery, it will reread the intake amd adapt

After you install any component that will alter engine dynamics, you're going to want to:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Pump brake pedal to completely drain power.

3. Let sit for 30-60 minutes.

4. Reconnect battery cable and drive car modestly for 100 miles.

Your ECU should be fully adjusted to the new parameters after this. Keep in mind that these steps are for simple bolt-ons. Anything more demanding than breather or exhaust mods will most likely require a tune of some sort.

Crank walk is when the crank tends to move across it's bearing surfaces, adding a bending load to the connecting rods.

The "walk" part only applies to when it's running. Engine off, some people call it "end play," or "runout," and few other terms floating around, but basically:

Crankshafts aren't supposed to move very much along their axis of rotation. If they do, man, all sortsa shit can go wrong.

So by purchasing forged rods and such, problem solved?

yes pretty much

the main thing crank walk is caused by is putting a beefy ass clutch in right?

There's also something about thrust washer tolerances and planet alignment.

Blown Motor - Still at the Dealer
 

i hoped to never have to post here, but it looks like i've been hit with the rod problem everyone else seems to be having...

i was day driving to work on the highway - 6th gear at about 70mph when the car felt like it stuttered. check engine light then oil light. i cut the motor off and pulled to the side of the road - oil everywhere. towed it to my buddy's shop and yup - #4 rod snapped sending something straight down through the oil pan. motor is shot.

so - 5 hours later and a ton of work, the car is back to stock and being towed to the dealer. since it was a weekend, of course Mazda's not open for the dealer to start the warranty claim. i spoke to them today and they're in the process of sending pictures / e-mails to Mazda.

the only thing that remains on the car is my gauge cluster - boost gauge and wideband O2 which i removed the bung from. haven't heard back yet but from what the service guys were telling me, i should be getting a remanned longblock from Mazda. Car was remapped back to stock with my AP as well.

Mods - CPE Downpipe, Cobb FMIC, CPE CAI, Denso IVT22 gapped @ .026, Turbosmart 50/50 BPV - Recirc, custom AP tune by P&L Tuning (Chicago, IL).

Guess I have a few questions :

1. I was holding about 20psi with the custom tune putting down about 280hp / 293 lb/ft tourque at the wheels. Need new rods to be safe?

2. I was hopefully going to be modding the car with CDFP internals, turbo manifold and have my turbo reworked. Will it be safer with the new rods?

I'll post again once I hear from the dealer.

Currently Driving - 2010 Mazda 6 v6 - LOADED which is impressive.

^^^^Don't worry man. Mazda doesn't do remanufactured engines for mazdaspeeds. They use brand new longblocks.

... Didn't u here a ticking noise somewhat prior to this? Something slightly outta the ordinary, because usually u will here the crank walk prior to it throwing a rod...

Unfortunately 20 psi with flow mods on the stock pump caused some prior damage to the rods that finally let go.