Damn should I take off my tp then? Don't have hpfp or tune just a Sri and tip with a tp I'm getting nervous now

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk

Have a way to watch your di pressure?

If you have no way of monitoring what's going on with your car, for all you know, squirrels could be nesting inside one of your cylinders and you wouldn't know. Until the engine blows that is, then you will.

This sucks....don't have anything to monitor I'm not going wot anymore till I get my hands on an AP

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk

Bummer man.

Wait a minute...

Yeah, i didn't know about the CAI and TP needing to be tuned, wont make that mistake again.

I ran this setup with no tune for at least 30-40k miles.

SRI/CAI and TP dont cause detonation lol. Just watch your FP.

I dont get it lol fail...





But I think the gendone is not as sensitive as the genpu which is what I have...right or wrong?:confused:

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk

The genpu is more robust - the stock tune is more robust that is.

You have an Android phone.

Here's a thread with relevant info:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru.../torque-70662/

Wow that's awesome but from what I see is that they don't have the PIDS for genpu

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk

Lex, not to negate you, but when the genpu tune see di pressure <1600 psi at wot, it tries dumping even more fuel which taxes the cdfp even more and the downward spiral begins.

I am speaking in general. The Genpu stock tune is a little more robust than gen1 - they dealt with some of the issues and hence a lot fewer blown motors.

Oh, gotcha.

Update on my story: I convinced Mazda to replace it for me but now after talking to the tech I think I could possibly have another problem. The tech mentioned that he drove it into the bay twice on 3 cylinders. Which was fine and dandy I suppose but he said after the partial tear down he never put oil back in it and rolled it back into the spot where it was parked. When the people from warranty solutions came out for the inspection he tried to move it again with NO oil -___- he said he made it about 10 feet before it completely seized. I have 2 concerns. First, the radiator dumped all its coolant and water into the engine which means there's probably coolant in the turbo. Second when he ran it without oil, was that starving my turbo of oil?? I realize he wasn't boosting in the 20 feet to the bay but could that cause a problem? I'm thinking not but I wanted your guy's opinion. I didn't bring it up in front of him, I was planning on bringing it up with the service manager if necessary. I'm more worried about coolant sitting in the turbo for the last 2 weeks. Any input would be appreciated.

I pulled a zoomzoomboom the other night

2006 mazdaspeed6
stock manifold
2.5k rpms
20 mph in second
under no acceleration
mods: sri, hybrid bov (full recirc), tp, 1 step colder plugs
cylinder 1 with holes in the front and back of the block, and cracked oil pan
73k miles
no warranty

How did you monitor your car?

Best thing that could of happend to you. Now dealer really owns the problem.

Who gives a shit about the cheap turbo that guy cooked the main bearings. Dude you now should demand a new engine and while your at it shake the hand of the warranty solutions guy. Maybe even give him a christmas present and consider yourself a lucky bastard. If your not comfortable confronting them since I don't know you get someone who is to go down and confront the dealer and the warranty guy. If you don't you're a chump.

You're*

+!

View image: 383999 283523568349792 154951461207004 739465 10

Didn't... only for a month or two though. I was getting an AP though and then this happened..

Lol.

The MS6s with the higher loads that can be generated by the AWD and the aggressive OEM tune often end up in this situation.

Let me ask you this - after you were cruising on the highway and you got on the throttle, did the car stutter at first and then take off? Was this something that happened the first time you got on the throttle and you couldn't replicate it unless you cruised for another 15+ minutes?

It happened when I initially bought the car, cel came on saying random misfire. Replaced the plugs with step colder plugs and the problem went away. Never hesitated again and the car pulled great. That's why I'm baffled

Often a slightly tweaked rod takes a while for it to finally yield.

It had nothing to do with his random misfire code does it? Cuz I've gotten a random misfire code sporadically (actually all the time now in cold weather) on cold start ever since going eth and ported vct delete intake Mani. I've gotten the code for like 7 months.

A random misfire code can have many sources so that's hard to say. Heavy stuttering, esp at WOT and associated with heavy KR is what I would worry about.

I can confirm that these cars car run great with a bent rod. The computer is REALLY good at masking the problem. I got lucky and found mine before i made a window.

A good tell that there is a problem is a big drop in timing. My car a WOT was running over -10°.

This info is too late to help you so i will just say i am sorry.

I had this problem in cold weather so bad I couldn't go over 5k. Fixed it with a set of itv22's and like a .28 -.30 gap. previous owner had some shitty autozone plugs gapped at like .51 in there. Hope the answer to yours is as simple as mine was.

sry when i said they are replacing "it" i meant the engine. but now do i need a new turbo??

Didn't get my hands on a monitoring device quite quick enough. Another reason it should be the first thing you buy... just a heads up to other people.

2010 Blown!
 

2010 Mazdaspeed 3
18,500 miles at time of blow out.
Cylinder 1 punched a hole through the block and oil pan

Ran less than 15miles or so total before it blew.
See my detailed write up for all the info.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-my-car-99745/

Well....my car is now in the zoom zoom boom category too! Car has been running perfect. Started up and drove about 1.5 miles. Light acceleration and shift from 1-2 probably around 3000 rpm and poof! Smoke and parts under the hood and oil all over the road. Here is what I have:

2007
98000 miles
Amzoil since new
CAI only mod

Now on to find a new engine. Not sure whether to go new short block or used low miler.

Doing research now.

So I started the tear down....looks like a TON of oil in all cylinders. Hole in side of front of block, looks like at cylinder 3. The oil is VERY thick, unlike the oil in the head which looks pretty good (Mobil1). I am having problems understanding how the oil ended up in every cylinder. Oil looks to be isolated to the engine side of the throttle body and it pooled after the engine went. It is only on the bottom of the pipe and hose, so I suspect it was not being sucked in thru the throttle body from the turbo and none is in the intercooler. The oil is consistent in the intake manifold and the EGR tube.

Called around today to get some quotes on engines. Dealer quoted a long block and said it was a complete engine. Price was quite reasonable, all things considered. He was unsure what complete engine meant, but he said that the footnote said "complete assembly, no gaskets required". He was unsure how complete the assembly is. He is going to call Mazda tomorrow and inquire.

Anyone know what "complete assembly" means for a long block 2.3 from Mazda? Is it a typical long block? or will it have fuel rails and valve cover and oil pan, etc? Not sure how it will require no gaskets if it doesnt have manifolds on it?

Will likely have valve cover and oil pan. Probably both manifolds.
Probably won't have a turbo.
How do you direct link to a specific post on this forum?

So in your blowed up post, you said amsoil since new.
Then in your picture post, you said mobil1. ...?

Pretty sure oil choice had little to do with this.

Sorry about the Amsoil confusion. I know the original owner and have receipts for oil changes for the first 55K. It was Amsoil. I have changed with Amsoil until the last oil change about 4K ago. It now has 98K. Just getting damn expensive to pay $85 for oil changes every month. Put about 3k each month on the car. Went with Mobil 1 just this last oil change. Dont think it had anything to do with it, just the oil that is in the manifold looks like trash. I have never seen anything like it. It is like molases. I wonder if is just because it got all mixed with coolant when the engine went it got all nasty. But it is marked different than that in the top of the head.