Hi
Have the same issue as you,just want to know if you can give the Mazda dealer info that you the block from. I live in TX and they cot me $5000 for the block . I will be great if I can get for $3500. Thank again

Help!!!! My motor blew. And they want $9300 to fix it!!!!
 

I heard a small pop a few days ago. Engine light came on car seemed fine, turned it off and on light want off thought it was just a backfire. So today going down 95 @77 mph, by Philli accelerated heard the pop again this time louder and lots of smoke. Lost power but the car kept moving, drove to the local dealer where it was pronounced DOA. Blown motor.

CP-E MZR DISI 2.3 HPFpump™
CP-E MazdaSPEED3 3" SS Downpipe
CP-E flashed computer with CP-E Standback
Cold air intake
Lowered a bit
sway bars

Passport 9500ix & Laser SHIFTER ZR4™

After that event and prior to going to your dealer did you feel any vibrations or anything?
I'm not sure if you can drive the car with a blown motor (meaning a hole in the block, or a severely bent rod/crankshaft, blown valves and so on).
What you're saying here sounds more like oil starvation, meaning that you ran out of oil and your engine internals are cooked up (most probably the piston rings, but not limited to that).

Or melted a piston like me.....
I blew mine and limped it 45-50 miles on 3 cylinders.

Should we get a big time Lawyer and start a class action law suit.
 

Mazda has protected themselves with legal verbiage. After reading most of these post it looks like the are hundreds of us with the same problem, modded or not. As a group we can make a difference and have them replace the motors with better components or refund us every penny we have put into our speed3s. I will look into finding a lawyer who specializes in this area we may need to find every person who own one. And get them on board. I'll let ya all know ASAP. I just want my car fixed. No money.

In the last years the community has made great headway in tuning these cars so that they run a lot safer and last at higher power levels. Mazda remedied some things in the 2010+ cars as well and the zoom zoom boom is a lot more rare these days because of it.

Unfortunately you were running an old tuning system that did not address the tuning issues that made these cars pop .... and the car was modified so you can't really claim it did this stock. It's the unfortunate nature of the beast - if you modify the car you take some risk and you have to keep on top of the trends and changes as the platform matures. It's too bad you didn't come here before it blew.

Unfortunately it is my turn to post on here. 2008 Metro Grey speed3 35,XXX miles. Mods were intake+inlet, COBB AP stage 1 BT OTS map. No warning signs leading up to failure, No CEL before or after. Normal cruising in 2nd gear, shifted into 3rd heard a slight knocking noise, got progressively worse in the next 100 feet or so. Towed to dealer, they said bent rod, even though engine was never disassembled. No warranty coverage due to mods. Looking to replace either the short or long block anyone have good connections? Looking for the cheapest/used replacement not a built block or something brand new. Fun while it lasted. :drive:

Damn. You should have towed it home or to a nearby parking lot to stock out (SRI/TIP are easy), reflash the stock map and then towed it to the dealer.

Lex, could you please elaborate on this? "Unfortunately you were running an old tuning system that did not address the tuning issues that made these cars pop"

Basically stock cars are more likely to pop than properly tuned modded ones.

@Lex can you explain more about the highway blow ups and why/what caused it?

Yes, the gen 1 cars seemed to suffer from some severe detonation when first spooling up after prolonged highway cruising. Mine did the same thing when stock. Meth or no meth, it still did it on the stock tune.

I then played with VVT and it has never done it since in 3 years. The dynamic compression ratio was too high for my local gas and was causing this condition.

Lex, Stage 1 OTS map...has it addressed this concern?

How old is the map and what have you been running before it? You also have to remember that this kind of damage happens over time.

Thank you for the reply.

Well I got my AP like a month ago...downloaded the latest stage 1 calibration from Cobb's site for stock air intake/ upgraded fuel pump.

I have full bolt-ons sitting here waiting to be installed but all these mystery engine failures have me nervous to move forward.

just some info..
i emailed onlinemazdaparts.com and i can get a long block shipped to me in florida for $3750.00 aprox.

Anybody that has blown that is looking to just sell as is and cut there losses?

Where were you a few months ago? I love this car when it is working property, but after rebuilding the entire front suspension at 60k, new VVT at 80k, new engine at 92k and now a rebuild of the rear suspension and replacement of a new tire because of the suspension at 102k, I would gladly have offed this car if I knew this.

There's one in the fs section.

Sent from my LG-MS690 using Tapatalk 2

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more sad story, Mazda crossover


Mazda CX-7 Engine Problems - Car Forums - Edmunds

Zoom Zoom Boom?

111k, Piston Ring Failure. MS6. Stock Never Modded.
Could be due to excessive oil usage/faulty turbo; or could have been piston ring failure over time. Disassembly in months to come.

It took me 2 weeks to blow mine after buying it @ 85k. Knowing what I know now, I should have picked up an AP immediately rather than waiting a couple weeks lol.

Oh well... it was incredibly fun while it lasted.

Can I get in on this even if I have a CX-7?

Same Engine, Same DAMN PROBLEMS!!

Sad thing is my car was stock but now it sports a hole through the block. I got pictures of oil causing an environmental hazard from the blown engine and pieces of metal caught at the bottom of the engine cover inside the engine bay.

I am waiting for the "official" report fromo my mechanic before deciding what to do next but it seems this is a typical issue with that engine.

Bet that guy in the Toyota is laughing his fucking bag off now.

2007 mazdaspeed3
76,XXX miles
mods- cold air intake
got to drive it for 4 weeks then this....

just pulled away from paying my toll and about 200feet later it was zoom zoom bang oil went all over and metal went flying. so its and the dealership now and they have not called me back yet but i hope my extended 100,000 bank warranty covers it.

This thread kinda freaked me out. I am running the stock tune but was thinking about getting the Cobb AP. Am I technically at risk by running the stock tune? Does the dealer offer an upgraded tune that will resolve some of these issues so I am less likely to blow something? Or do I just need to get the AP sooner than later if I want to keep my car for a while? I have a 2008 with 30K miles on it, I am the original owner so I know it hasn't been driven hard. I get on it from time to time but nothing too much. My plan was to start doing some upgrades after the 5 year warranty runs out in a few months.

@Lex it seems like you have some knowledge about this, any input would be greatly appreciated.

Err - all I can say on the topic is that a custom tune is not only more powerful but also more reliable - esp for the Gen1 cars.

The condition under which a lot of the early cars have blown is highway heatsoak and then spooling up to pass and this has a lot to do with the stock tune and its very aggressive dynamic compression ratio. Depending on your local fuel quality this may or may not be an issue. If you experience the car hesitating when accelerating on the highway after cruising for over 20 minutes then it is best to tune this condition out.

Bone stock cars have blown as have modified ones - but if you have performance modifications installed on the car, an AP with at least an OTS tune will be better than stock. Custom tuning takes you a step above this.

Also remember that the fuel pump is a weak point in the system so unless it is upgraded I would be watching it very closely if you're seeing over 16-17psi of boost.

Lex is one of the most knowledgeable guys on this platform when it comes to tuning. I would drive my car off of a bridge if he told me to.

That being said, get an AP before you do ANYTHING to that new engine.

To do list while waiting to get your car back. (besides getting an AP)

1.) Read Abilor's tuning guide and truly understand it. Most importantly, how to calibrate your MAF, check HPFP pressure, monitor KR how to take and read logs ect.

2.) Read ALL of the stickies in the tuning section.

This will give you a basic understanding of what to keep an eye out for. I know how it is, I drove mine for 10k and popped a motor with just an intake and stage 1 AP map. I came out of it with a thirst for knowledge and while I'm not an expert, I have a pretty good idea of how to keep myself out of trouble.

PM me if you have any questions about warranties. This is the one thing I did become an expert at after going through this.

Lex and radioflyer, thank you for your replies and information. I will definitely check out the links and make sure I get an AP before adding any other mods to the car. Luckily I don't have to get on the highway very often so hopefully I will be fine just driving the car like I have until I can get the AP with an OTS tune.

Thanks again for the help!

Blown engine - will sell car
 

I blew the engine in my 2006 MS6 GT last weekend, and I'm willing to part with the car as is. The repair is so costly I don't see how I can justify it.

I am a relative noob in this forum, and I wish I had been educated about what it takes to make the car reliable because I loved driving it. I'm just completely dejected at this point.

It sucks feeling that way about a car

Probably sent from a toilet

Unfortunately by the looks of it most stock MS6s will meet this fate sooner or later.

How do you tune this condition out?

From what I just read, you guys are right. Mine just let go too at 45000miles ( 75000km), although I did not go through the block. Seems cylinder one bent its rod from the photos I took. This happened while I was on the highway, about after 15 minutes of driving on a hot day, I accelerated from a ramp, while in 5th 55mph approximately, then the hiccup hesitation again and weird and loud clicking sound. I only have a CAI ( AEM and a BOV. You know the rest same story as the others. I always put synthetic oil in my MS6 2006 since 2006, more frequently then required, never abused the car and babied it. Two months prior to this, after another visit to the dealer for the often reported hesitation/hiccup, they found the injectors to be faulty and were causing the hiccup/hesitation issue. So even without warranty, I may have a case as there is a one year warranty on this 2500$ repair. They did go through the car in details then as they took 5 hours to find what the issue was.
Thanks for this thread, this is fantastic help for me... I ll keep you posted.

Cutting my losses
 

Yep, my engine blew 3 weeks ago. I'm selling the car as-is. Looking for a buyer. Can't post in the forsale section because I can't get an image with a handwrItten sign. See Craigslist St Louis or message me.

Hope they give you a new engine. A new tune/calibration would resolve this issue once you get the car back together.

Looking for an answer to this as well. I've been using a slightly modified 1.05 OTS tune for a long time now. Comparing the VVT values with the newest 2.10 map, looks like its changed a bit. Should I copy the 2.10 VVT values to my current map?

That's what my tuner was using, and I think they're generally safe, but I'm waiting for @Lex to chime in. I still went ZZB, but I may have had some underlying issues.

I am in the market for a used car and one of the local used car lots has a mint 2007 speed 3 with just over 100,000 K on it. After reading this forum my question is, "is it safe!?". I REALLY like the looks of it and would like to buy it, but I don't want to buy a car thats going to explode....

It's probably fine. As long as it's not been beat to shit.