Hesitation
 

I've been reading this thread and am getting more than a bit nervous. When driving my car (2008 MS3, stock) for a couple of hours yesterday at 30 - 60mph, I noticed that sometimes, when I got on it just a little (and really, just a little, like to accelerate 5mph slowly) at about 2200rpm in 5th or 6th, it would hesitate for a second. I figured maybe I needed new sparkplugs, but this thread is making me think I need to do something much more drastic - I just bought this car because my S6's motor blew up, and bought this car thinking that it would be more reliable. If this car's engine dies too, I will... well, whatever, I'd like to prevent that. Should my first step be to call the dealer and ask them if the TSB has been performed on my car, or should I just go right ahead and get some sort of tune for it to correct this issue? I kindof bought this car because I just wanted to drive it and not worry about it... is there any way to correct this issue quickly and easily? If not, anybody wanna buy it? I'm so done with cars that aren't reliable.

Check the plugs and the gap. It's probably fine. Remember, these are the ones that blow; it's still an extremely small minority, especially when kept stock. My car has eaten 2 engines now, but I am pretty sure I can point to most of the contributing factors in each failure; the biggest failure was me. One thing I will say: if you suspect you filled up with bad gas, drive carefully or drain the tank. By bad gas I mean if it takes 5 minutes to pump just over a gallon or something crazy like that. Overall these are excellent cars.

gfs car got it 2 months ago from a dealer (08 speed3), still has warrenty, she heard a bang and some knocking on the freeway and oil spewing from under the car, had to get it towed 4hrs to the nearest dealer and rent a car to drive another 3.5hrs to get home...30,000km on the 2nd engine, i read some stuff on the pcv on these cars causing this? i dont feel like reading 30 pages for a answer..is there a way to stop them from blowing up with such low kms? once the car gets a new engine and there is no definite way to stop this from happening again ill be selling the car, dont want to its a fun car to drive but i cant have it break down in the middle of no where with no cell service and a big bill once warrenty is up.

http://www.b15u.com/general-automoti...e-blow-up.html

Does it hesitate and also release a puff of exhaust smoke? If so that's knock and it's detrimental to the motor. It's an issue with the stock tune.

hey everyone. im new here. just purchased a 2012 speed3. i was reading through many pages of this thread and wanted some advice. i no know the zoom zoom boom is more frequent in the gen 1 cars. i would like to know what changes were made to the gen 2 to help resolve this issue. And is there anything i should be doing now while the car is new?? no mods at all and dont plan too.

its not a car for beginners, and someone who my slide on maintenance......

you need to know what kr sounds like! if you don't do not buy....

and like lex said, best way to blow it up, is to run around on a stock tune

If it's not modded you should be fine.

i had over 6deg of kr on stock tune, at wot, not fine from 4000 up, also ran out of fuel... fixed fuel first but still had kr...

you couldn't hear it, but you could feel it,

it would hesitate kinda like missing but worse..

get a ap and you can monitor all that stuff and make it safe, best investment by far..

other wise you would of been reading about my car in this thread ...

but ive went totally off the deep end with mods, so i may goo boom after all lol,

2 years bt, just under 400 hp 440 tq about 20,000 miles so far, stock internals..

I agree, but I didn't think the genpu generally had the same problems with knock as the genone. Still, it's a good idea to monitor.

doesn't mazda turn the knock sensor off after 5700 anyway, or is that just the ots cobb maps?

in stock form your done at that rpm anyway

okay i am a beginner with this car. i do not cheap out on maintenance. i have always taken very good care of all my cars.

With the gen 2 the engine failures are not as frequent. I will get an AP as soon as possible. is there any driving habits i should know of that will contribute to the problem??

Yes, don't floor it at low RPM's. Like below 3k I think. Also if you're getting an AP, I would get a tune; even stock you'll gain power and fuel economy, and also increase reliability. The tuners on this site have so much knowledge and experience it's almost scary.

I have been considering purchasing a 2007 Speed3, but upon research have stumbled upon the blown engine thread and it seemed to have frightened me in the process of getting ready to purchase the vehicle. Now, to be honest, I haven't thoroughly looked through the thread as it is 181 pages long and that's a lot of reading, but I noticed on the last couple of pages that your the right guy to ask directly. Lex had mentioned that when ran stock, they are at the most risk to blow. Does that mean when having a custom tune that drastically lowers the chance of the engine blowing due to the high compression rate?

I know of a friend that had bought a Speed6 and months after his purchase one of his rods went through his block. Is this also a factor to take into consideration for the same issue? The Speed3's have really grown on to me and I honestly just want a vehicle that I won't need to worry about when I drive it. Due to the fact that I have stumbled upon this I have considered getting into an 8thgen SI, because coming from another Honda, I know that they are reliable and need fairly little maintenance.

Would anyone please be able to help me in making my decision on a new fun vehicle to drive without any paranoia?

In what world are Hondas "fun?" Torque=fun...these cars are reliable when modified correctly. A little bit of common sense goes a long way. Yes, a custom tune will increase reliability and power. For what it's worth, I'm keeping this car until shit literally starts falling off. I don't care how many motors I blow (but hopefully there won't be any more LOL). My biggest problem is I like to push things as far as I can, but I'm not gonna do that this time.


Probably.

TLDR:

Fixed.

A rod wont bend for any reason...

Its when you beat the shit out of it at low rpm and when you knock at high rpm over the course of time. I guess one major event can cause it but so will neutral drops on an automatic.

in my opinion, 9 times out of 10 it is driver error and more likely than not the driver has a tendency to race every fart can honda it sees.

I think the stock tune isn't helping matters but its a combination of high RPM knock, bad shifting and low RPM boost.

Yes there are exceptions.


edit:

i read that link up top. very interesting!

hi guys, just signed up, i have a 2007 speed3 and i have a cold air intake, turbo xs dp, hks cat back, ap, and tuned, i think it runs so much better and smoother with the tune and makes some nice power, after reading and hearing the horror story's, i just dont know what to think, i have 44,000 miles and it runs great, i do plan on fmic, fuel pump, bov, and internals, i think it really does come down to the tune, bc stock tune really sucks on these cars

You should bump fuel pump internals up to the front of that list if you're scurred of zzb.

Lol@bov.
You needed internals before anything else in your list, that is already ON your car.

i do plan on internals, and a fuel pump, im not to big on the fuel pump internals bc i hear they fail, so i will go with cp-e one, and my tuning was done very carfully bc of the fuel issues, it run 1600+ at wot and great a/f ratios and im only pushing 15 psi, so car is still on the safe side. i just wanted the tune bc i wanted it to just run safer with the current mods, my goal is maybe to have around 380 whp:unitedstates:

What turbo do you plan on using to get to 380?

inb4stocktubo

This is the blown engine resource thread, not the tuning guide thread.
Search and read more before posting, 380whp is a wet dream with your current approach and way of thinking. Only 1600psi at WOT near red line where you will supposedly get 380whp may not be enough.

We have dedicated threads with pretty complete lists of parts you need to get you past 350bhp or near the 400bhp mark, ask your questions there if you will still have any.

well i understand my setup currently wont get me to 380 i said that was my goal., and i know how to get to it so i know it will take much more modification's to get there but thanks for the info.

Running a catless downpipe with no internals... He's just subbing so he knows where to post after he blows his engine.

Probably sent from a toilet

If the DP is addressed properly in his current tune he will never blow with the stock internals. But that's a pretty tricky and big "IF".

When I was a dumbass (well even more of a dumbass than I am now) I ran catless with stock fuel pump with no issues for around 6 months, and then increased boost via Standback and ran for another 2 months before my shit blew.

Yeah, pretty dumb.

Never, you say?

With the proper tune it can be avoided.

Agreed! But if your already spending $1000's on mods, why not spend 400$ on some internals just in case?

I have shit for mods and I still know better!

I love the blown motor thread. Dont go wot in 6th gear going 60 up a hill, downpipe w/o hpfp internals is a no no, no cai for chance of hydrolock and get a tune when modding .:chairshot::

guys really? its not that serious i have my car tuned by one of the best on the east coast i think he knows what he is doing. yes he did say to get the fuel pump and i will i am deployed right know so i cant do it this sec but he tuned it to run with in that stock fuel pump range! the logs look perfect as far as fuel pressure the tune was to just get every thing to work together. thank you for the concerns i will get it done when i get back!

so i have been reading the 1 page of the list of differnent motors blowing, my question is all these cars seem to blow with really low mileage, and some with upgraded turbo's and none gave any warning b4 failure... that really sucks, so question is has anyone blow there motor after doing upgraded rods and pistons?

I know of at least one engine failure after upgraded rods and pistons.

I just blew......FUCK

68,000 miles, smoking turbo I think oil got past the turbo seals and pushed back into the #3 cyl. which caused detonation and now I have 50 psi in that cyl. and a blown turbo. But not I can go forged and BT so it sucks and it will cost a bit but in the end worth it

Details...?

Fixt.

If the stage 0 maps are actually the latest Mazda Rom with no edits, mazda calls it quits @ 5750...

They set the rev limiter to 6700.

I've said this already, but FUCK THIS THREAD.

Its completely irrelevant and has been for years. Personally I think it should be closed.