I hope English is not your native language.

a friend of mine's engine damaged 1 month ago.
2006 Mazda 6 MPS (mazdaspeed 6 eu) 80k miles in it, have been never tuned..
3rd piston broke, possibly the 3rd cylinder ran lean. 6th gear, at 4500 rpm, medium load.
Injectors checked, all were good. Rail pressure sensor seemed wrong, it caused burns in the ecu.

Did you have a bsd?

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I have a 2007 mazdaspeed 6 with 80k miles. I was doing 155 mph in 6th approx. 6000 rpm when my engine light started flashing. I pulled over and there was oil leaking from what looks like where the oil pan and transmission meet. My accessport says cylinder 3 misfire and another code "PCM" with no description available. I have a cobb intake, filter, turbo inlet hose and bypass valve and running the stage1+SF+TIH 93 and had 7-11 93 octane gas can someone help me figure out what I need to do

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Compression/leakdown test first. You may need new rear main seal, and possibly a new clutch.

Sent from Stockish Pu

I forgot to mention that the motor died as I was pulling over. I got it started after I stopped but it died shortly after and had to have it towed.

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doesnt sound like you did the vent case mod if you were able to start it

Whats a vent case mod?

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zoom zoom boom, aka bent rod busting through the block 'venting the crank case' windowing the block... did your motor have oil in it after pulling over?

if it was leaking a bit and not a puddle (think diarrhea) rear main seal might be a good place to look, I would be really worried about running the motor with the main seal blown though, hard to keep oil pressure with a blown seal. Find the leak before doing anything else, not certain about a compression check but certainly would not start it.

I'm pretty sure it would be a more violent shutdown than just "the engine died."

It wasnt a violent break down at all and the oil on the dipstick was 3/4 to the max line. After the engine light started flashing there was a very noticable loss in power and I drove about a mile to the nearest exit and shut the motor off myself and rolled into a gas station then turned it back on and it ran in neutral for about a minute while I inspected it then it bogged down and died on its own

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This and this while following instructions from here.

Doesn't sound like clutch issue. Maybe popped the hose from the IM to BPV. What was the oil level before "ZZB?"

Full

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I started the replace clutch and rear main seal project and right away I found this little pea sized hole in the bell housing where it meets the crank case. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/12/y9yte7e8.jpg and then while pulling the turbo inlet hose from the turbo oil dumped out of both

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Will replacing the bell housing, crank case and head gasket fix these problems?

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This is not ZZB, probably the car was hit at some point.

Sorry im a noob but what is "ZZB"

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Its what we affectionately call Zoom zoom boom.;)

Sent from Stockish Pu

Lol

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So you're saying an accident is the reason this happened mituc?

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ZZB #2
 

Well...now im Pissed!....first ZZB @ 95K..Replaced with factory new long block. 75K later...6th gear, 45mph....rod #1 thrown through the rear of the block.

Now I have a beautiful black 07 with brand new wheels and a ton of mods including eibach springs, konis on all four corners, CAI, HIDs, Cobb Short shoft, NAV, and bunch of other goodies...love this car but cant afford to put new motors in every 75k!!!

This engine got Mobile One for every oil change and was pampered..didnt seem to matter.

Well Mobil 1 sure didn't help any, but I doubt that's why your engine grenade. Did you have upgraded HPFP? And did you say 45mph in 6th? What rpm is that? That doesn't sound safe.

I cruise in highest gear possible whenever I can. If I'm trying to be sneaky sneaky, I'll let my high idle do all the work and I can wind up in 4th gear without having touched the gas once; great for sneaking through neighborhoods at the speed limit without waking everyone up.

The amount of corn in my tank may be a factor in my shit not blowing up though. Need a mod list and log if you have any @cplensdorf; though, if you don't have AP/HPFP internals then I doubt anyone will be surprised. If you don't have either of those, I'd love to take a look at the inside of your HPFP.

It's sub 2000rpm...
In a gen 1, 80kph (50mph) is about 2k rpm

Were you just cruising, or did you give it a little gas?

I'm guilty of it as well, but not at 45mph....I stay around 2500rpm or so. Both of my stock bottom end engines blew under similar conditions, in 6th gear, lower rpm, but I gave it a little gas both times.

At 90Kmph you're at 2k rpm in 6th. So 45mph which is 72kmph is 72/90 * 2000 = 1600rpm. This is like 500rpm away from the minimum recommended for cruising in 6th on even ground.

We don't teach anyone how to drive here, but the highest gear I recommend using 1500-1600rpm for constant low speed on even ground or downhill (bumper to bumper traffic, no uphill) is 3rd. Do not shift into 6th not even for moving at constant speeds unless you're at at least 62-65mph or going downhill and trying to save fuel.

2200-2500rpm for cruising in higher gears (5-6th) is optimal, we still have some decent oil pressure there and also getting decent mileage per gallon/liter/whatever.
Personally on highway I never cruise below 3k rpm. Usually 3200-3700. Saving fuel cruising below 2000 or 1800rpm is like engine braking with the clutch. The clutch + labor is as expensive as replacing 4 sets of brake disks + brake pads. Cruising below 2200 will save you a negligible amount of fuel at the price of carbon build-up and higher stress on the internals compared to cruising in the next lower gear at a right RPM.

Well, I'm not sure I can agree. Engine load on constant speed is pretty minimal at low speeds, so while 1600 might be a tad low, i don't see anything wrong with driving at 1,8-2k

Yes, at constant speed everything is fine at 1.8-2k. But at 1.6k... going slightly uphill or slightly touching the acceleration pedal will make the ECU target significantly higher loads than it would do/need in a lower gear.

This, combined with the low RPM, spool characteristics of the factory turbo and the hysterical stock tune or stock-like tunes that will try to make as much boost as possible that low and achieve fuel economy at the same time (and eventually with dirty injectors) can sometimes trigger a sudden and violent divorce between the rods and block.

Also, it's never driving at low RPM alone. It's a combination of several factors, both long therm (engine state, injectors, maintenance) and short therm (RPM, gas quality, temperatures inside the engine, post turbo, whatever, elevation, load, oil contamination, and so on).

Sorry if this is the wrong thread but I replaced my rear main and clutch on my ms6 got everything back together and started tge engine and it was shaking a little bit more than normal but seemed to be idling fine but when I pushed the gas pedal white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust and from under the hood. Can anyone help? Blown turbo seal maybe?

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And when I run the motor for a while the coolant reservoir gies empty

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Hmm, we need a little more information before any advice can be given. Can you provide more details?

Well it all started when I was going down the highway in 6th gear at about 6k rpm and my engine light started flashing so I killed the engine and pulled over to find oil slowly dripping out of my bell housing and was advised to check the rear main seal so I did and it was trashed along with my clutch. So I replaced the clutch disc, PP, input shaft bearing and clutch fork along with the rear main seal. I put everything back together taking my time and carefully following instruction from this forum and others. I tried starting the car this morning and it wouldnt. My Cobb AP read engine codes p0091 and a couple others that had to do with electrical stuff. When I came home from work this afternoon I looked under the hood to find a couple loose connections so I snapped them back together, hooked the cars battery to my work trucks and it fired right up. I let it idle for a little while while I inspected the engine and noticed it was shaking back and forth more violently thay normal with no white smoke anywhere at this point from what I could tell. I then reved the engine to 3,500 rpms and smoke started rising from behind the exhaust manifold and out of the tail pipes so I read the codes agaon and got the same ones (cant remember exactly which ones) but all had to do with low voltage input to fuel pressure control and tumble control solenoids. (Not at home now but will post exact codes when I get back) I turned it off and turned it back on a little while later and it was pouring even more smoke out of the tailpipes than before but didnt notice any coming directly from the exhaust manifold or turbo still getting same engine codes. I checked the dipstick and the oil was at max level and looked normal (no bubbles or milkyness) i used 6qts castrol full synthetic 5w-30 by the way. And thats all the details I have now until I get back to the car. Ill post the exact codes and some pics in the morning. I talked to our family mechanic and he said it sounds like turbo seal failure to him. Sorry if thats not enough info please let me know what I can provide in order to acquire more advice and big thanks to anyone that took the time to read this and consider possible problems

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Well coolant is disappearing, and white smoke is pouring out the exhaust......

I drained all fluids before tearing everything apart including coolant. I filled the reservoir to the full line before initial start up. After white smoking for a bit the reservoir was empty so I filled it again and repeated once or twice more

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Didn't think my comments would create such a stir...the point was not that the engine was loaded properly or not....or what rpm = what speed...the point was that regardless of anyone's opinion, an engine should not just grenade at such a low rpm after being well cared for...no boost...just cruising along....no symptoms, no sign...and this was the second engine in 170k. The first went during a slight acceleration in 2nd... This was a brand new long block that lasted 75K. The first one, only 95K.

If you had bothered to read the thread you posted in you would realize that your situation is not unusual at all. This is not some economy grocery getter. If you are in a stock tune, especially on a 6 or a gen one, you blew your motor eventually while just cruising. Not sure if you have an ap or not, but if you have a cai with no tune then you should be even less surprised that you blew up.

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Yeah, you really shouldn't be surprised. You've been a member here almost as long as I have.

Car is billowing tons of smoke from exhaust now my neighbors thought my garage was on fire. My AP is reading 5 different codes. 3 under "PCM": P2009 (variable tumble control solenoid valve circuit low input), u0121 (communication error to ABS HU/CM), U0155 Communication error to instrument cluster. And 2 under "IC" u1900 and u2516 with no description available. Coolant reservoir empty and oil level now close to half full.

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You connected something wrong. And/or failed to connect something. I wouldn't start it again until you figure out your mistake.

So a wrong connection can cause all that smoke?

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No but a warped head or fucked turbo seals can. You didn't run it out of water or oil at any point did you?