Yes I was lucky and it didn't vent the block. I felt the vibes in the clutch pedal and babied it home where I pulled the oil pan and found the bent rod.

Thanks! I've have bought a long block for my build w/ 3 year unlimited mile warranty on it. Any advice on the HPFP internals? I want to ensure I buy quality parts.

I'm running PTP/HPFPUpgrade/DamnFastDD internals, they've been in my car for over 120k miles without issue. Most people here have a problem with him, but again, they've worked for me. Autotech makes good internals, and Corksport as well. If you want a complete pump CP-E has them.

2010 Gen II here.

My Engine hasn't "Blown" but has excessive blow by that is causing it to spew oil out the crank case breather and into the air intake. At first this smoke was diagnosed as a smokey turbo, until the turbo was replaced and things got worse. Leakdown test identified that all cylinders are leaking into the crank case.

Compression/Leakdown Results were:
Cyl 1: 165PSI/5% leakdown
Cyl 2: 150PSI/35% leakdown
Cyl 3: 140PSI/50% leakdown
Cyl 4: 150PSI/40% leakdown

Car still drives ok but power is way down and it occasionally burps, blowing a lot of smoke.

This car has done 65000km (40500 Miles) and has done dozens and dozens of track days, so it's had an extremely hard life.

Rebuild strategy at the moment is to buy a new long block from Mazda and drop a set of forged internals + injector seals in before doing an engine swap.

I was running a DP and Intake and ECUTEK tune at 17PSI, so quite modest power levels (had that done before AP was available). Did NOT have a HPFP for much of this time so am wondering if this might have contributed to the engine wear or if this was purely thanks to all the track miles that the car has done. It might not have exploded but if the fuelling was anything less than perfect then it could have conceivably caused some detonation, especially at the racetrack. It didn't explode, but she sure didn't last long!

My engine blown 2 days ago car was on cold start up when a loud pop them like a ticking sound hole infront of 4 and spark plug 4 is smashed in, my mods ares only hpfp intake custom catback 77k miles

Why would you run non-synthetic? Rotella T6 is what most people on here run, and it's what I've been running for the last 5 years myself.

As for mod plans (with respect to this post and your previous post), keep the balance shaft, if it's a DD, you'll want it. The OCC is a nice addition, but it's not necessary (I've run without one since I bought my car, and haven't really seen the need myself.)

I would definitely post a WTB thread and ask if anyone is selling an AP V2, and get a proper e-tune as well. As the others have said, you'd do well to pick up a set of Autotechs too.

I hope you're kidding....

As to which part?

The oil recommendation. Dino oil for break in.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Oh, yeah. Sorry for the confusion.

I was thinking damn, I know you know better; probably just a momentary lapse in reason.....

I need to pick your brain on fuel economy; I've been following the hypermiling threads and using the information to the best of my ability and I'm not seeing more than 31mpg on the interstate.

What sorts of speeds do you average on the highway?

Oh about 80 I think....when I slow down I do get a little better, obviously. But I commute 120 miles to work, and I'm usually in a little bit of a hurry.

Well, that's probably the answer. If you're averaging 80mph and still getting around 30mpg, you're doing exceedingly well. I have to drive closer to 70mph in order to get anything above 30mpg. You know, wind resistance increasing as a square of the speed tends to have that impact.

Yeah, I just thought we were driving at similar speeds. Thanks.

I also forgot that I'm using 33% e85....

Well, I did a 160 mile trip at 75mph and it came out to 20mpg.....

Then something is definitely wrong, unless you're using something other than pump gas, or the entire trip was uphill.

No one buys a mazdaspeed for hypermiling.
Smarten up.

No, but isn't it nice to be able to have both?

You can have your cake and eat it too... Last night I got a text from the local full corn test mule of "32 mpg," but I'm still waiting for confirmation that was on the Speed.

Edit: NVM, he sent that text to the wrong person; I should have known better since I know he doesn't have the self control to get higher than 20 in the Mazda.

LOL! Truth! I say I "can" get that good mileage, but I usually see around 26. But it's nice to know that when I'm broke I can make the sacrifice if necessary.

It can be done though. Just remember that after 60 MPH, you're losing to aero.

This was my car on 50/50 (~e45):

I'm almost never not trying to beat my best time, anytime I go somewhere.
That's having my cake and eating it too.
Mileage has never entered into the equation.

LOL at this, the soot on my CWP agrees; that said mine is a daily driver and I have averaged over 26 mpg for almost 40k at an average speed of 45mph.. For what they are, what they do and what they cost our cars are nice.


But it isn't respectable. It's mildly terrifying. And that actually makes it quite appealing. - Mazda 3 MPS review, Matthew Jones, Top Gear.

I am doing well to get 20mpg on e40...

It is alright, as I get about 5 smiles per mile while boosting...

No, even road, 93.

Even road, 93/94 pump gas, highway speed (139kmph GPS speed), average fuel consumption is around 26-27mpg. If the speed is lower, around 110-120kmph and held constant (no crazy overtakes, and so on) I get 8-8.5l/100 (33-35mpg).
On a 6MPS the fuel economy should be worse with 0.5-0.7l/100 in average (3-5 less mpg) than on a 3MPS because it is heavier and the transfer case takes away some of that moving energy.

So there's definitely something off there. Maybe you should try to advance more in the closed loop sections, the factory timing should be fine. I'm not sure how that works with the 10.6:1 compression ratio but theoretically in closed loop a 2.3 liter engine with a 10.6:1 ratio should be significantly more efficient than another 2.3 liter engine with 9.5:1.

Yes, if all other factors were equal, I'd agree. Unfortunately since the base compression ratio is significantly higher, the car won't be able to run as much ignition advance as our stock 9.5:1 motors. The result would likely be that fuel economy either isn't much different than what we see on stock motors (but achieved with lower ignition advance), or it might be slightly worse if the car can't achieve the same/similar dynamic compression ratio numbers.

I believe this came up in one of the high-compression build threads a while back. It migh'tve been @phate;, because I think I might've even asked about fuel economy.

Hm, now to think about it - I do get a lot of random KR coming up at cruise. So the ECU could be reducing advance to try and fix that (even though I doubt its real KR as my engine is reaaaaally producing a lot of KR) and in turn gets bad mileage?

The question is: if I increase the load limit for KR - how will that impact ECU's efforts to increase timing till it detects knock? What will happen if it keeps increasing it and it starts knocking but it will not be registered because load is below my set limit?

If you're getting real KR, then the car should be doing at least 2 things:

1. Pulling a bunch of ignition timing
2. Dumping a bunch of fuel into the mixture to try and cool the combustion chamber

The result:

Bad fuel economy.

Under normal low-load, closed-loop, operating conditions, the DISI motor does tend to generate a fair amount of KR. It's possible to tune around this, and many people have (including me). I used to see knock counts of 5-8 just driving around town, and on the highway. The fact that you're running a higher-than-stock compression engine could be leading to more hotter combustion temperatures, and more knock, more easily.

Do you still have your EGR plugged in?

No, no EGR.

That can contribute to knock as well. EGR has a cylinder-cooling effect that can reduce knock by filling the cylinder partially with non-combustible, inert gasses.

Good idea, I should try to reconnect it.

edit: update: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post2726614

120mi commute = beater 99-03 TDI or some other old econobox and save the wear and tear on your mazda. Especially if you're running hi-po tires. Yeesh.

Plus, after driving that slow shitbox, your MS3 will feel like a goddamn rocket. Every time.

are you the original owner?

Hey first time posting, read on hear and fix a ton on this car due to this site but never posted. Found this thread after I threw a rod and blew a hole through the back of the block last night doing about 35-40mph. Only mod is an intake with 120k miles. Whats the next step? Any suggestions. I'm honestly growing tired of fixing this car every month, but yet I love it to death. Do I buy a used block somewhere? Any suggestions?

Gen done or Pu?

It is a Gen 1 2008 MS3. I'm assuming that's what you're asking. I swear I need a dictionary to understand the jargon on here.

I've been down this road a few times now, and the best advice I can give you is to find a block somewhere (there's one in the For Sale section for $300; it needs sleeves but in my opinion it's a good investment to sleeve it anyway) and use your cylinder head. Take them to a machine shop, get some forged pistons/rods, and have them build you a motor. Save yourself some money and take the engine out/reinstall it yourself with some help from local Nator chapter.

Ok, So thats one option I was thinking the other aspect of this is do I sell the car as is? This is probably a poor place to ask where to sell a MS3 on a Mazdaspeed forum but what sort of place to I look to sell this? I've never had to deal with this so I have no idea where to look to sell it? I guess you can't sell/buy without 150 posts so that isn't an option in this site. My next question was actually going to be if I plan on staying stock if I decide to keep the car. Forged internals, are they worth it on a fairly stock car?