In that case you can find a used long block and swap it out, then sell your cylinder head. That will cost over $2400 probably. Labor will run about $1k, if you're not doing that yourself.

You could sell the car, but you need to post on here a bit to sell here. You can try the FB groups, but beware of scammers. That's why the rules here are so strict.

Oh, and you blew your engine because it's stock. The stock tune is awful, and our rods are weak.

I'm noticing that the rods are a tad weak (pic). So keeping the car and not really planning on modding a ton but may a year or two down the road whats the best option? I'd assume a new block with upgraded internals. That's going to be roughly as much as a used long block depending on the parts I buy and what I can salvage (if anything) from my current situation. Whats a good place to get a short block? Used somewhere or buying online?

You can buy here, if I'm not mistaken. Just can't sell. Or get one from eBay.

iMoto has a damaged engine for sale as well as a used engine. It might be worth getting more information from them.

Used Race Parts | Team i-MOTO Racing Parts

Thank you I appreciate the help! I do have hopefully only one more question, I did some looking online regarding people who make or at least rebuild MS3 short blocks. CP-E keeps coming up. Is that overkill for most likely the more common bolt on mods maybe a little extra in the future?

Even going forged would be overkill; the stock block is fine. It's the tune you need to change.

Welp, looks like I'll be on the hunt for a new stock block thanks for the help! Hopefully all goes well and I can enjoy the car soonish.

I'm making close to 400 whp on stock block with >60k miles on it. UOA suggests there is very little engine wear happening, and everything is in good health.

Engine life expectancy is tied directly to the tune.

model: BK speed 3 2007, 96,300 miles
mods: injen SRI, JBR TIH, autotech hpfp internals, cobb fmic, cp-e downpipe, HKS SSQV, grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, Toyota injector seals, JBR OCC, custom e-tune, roughly 320hp atf, 19psi, 21 psi peak, stock turbo and manifold, run on shell 98
damage: bent rod on cylinder 1, caused huge vibrations and snapped putting a hole in front and rear of the block, crank okay, sump blew out, oil pump destroyed, crank girdle snapped in two, bottom end of cylinder wall gone, rod still attached to wrist pin and crank, piston spun round bent two intake valves.
situation: cruising on the freeway in 6th at 68mph around 2-2.5k rpm, low throttle, cruise control on.
warranty: no
oil: Penrite HPR5 full synthetic 5w-40

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...C_0063copy.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...C_0058copy.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...C_0057copy.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...C_0061copy.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...C_0055copy.jpg

What was your tune making torque wise?

So the measurements I have from virtual dyno are at the wheels.

290hp @5646rpm
323lb ft @3760rpm

1.01 SM3?

Yep

Well, he didn't blow at WOT, and judging by how that piston looks like (dirty, with a lots of sources for hot spots) it may very well have been LSPI (low speed pre-ignition): http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...glands-180687/ .

Looks like it, wasn't running huge rod fucking torque either. More corn = less blows.

You think that would be enough for rod failure?

Plenty actually. Just that this didn't occur for quite a long time among the members of this forum. Now everybody blows at WOT making either 450+hp on a stock block or on 700+ on crazy setups.

I was enjoying >400whp 3rd gear pulls on E40 today with 99k on motor...ear to ear grins...

I agree that lots of corn can be a nice safety net.

If you've seen the comments from Blackstone on my engine, you'd know that my 61k mile BT totally stock block looks like new (from their perspective). I will never not have corn in my tank.

Freshly Smoked Engine
 

Hey Chaps,

I have a 2008 Ms3 with 68,000k miles. Engine is totally stock. Oil changes at every 4,500 miles. I don't romp the car on a daily basis but I used to get a little heavy on it here and there.

I was driving very close to home the other day when a very loud clacking came with no warning and the clutch pedal began vibrating. I drove the hundred or so feet home and turned the car off. From there it was towed to the dealer and Mazda said it would be around 8 Grand in parts and labor to do a full motor swap.

I filed a claim with Mazda corporate demonstrating proper service and relatively low mileage, but they wont even split the cost with me.

So, Mazda wants 8k, a private shop will do a new motor for about 6k. I'm technically savvy and have done all my own (not so major) repairs, but I don't really have the means to do a full rebuild.

Any reasonable advice out there for a guy in my position? Thanks all.

Thanks for showing me this. Seems like a decent option. Have many people taken this option over having a garage put a new (junkyard) motor in? A motor with 60k miles was quoted at $5500 installed. Hopefully these rebuilds aren't blowing too..lol

Of course they will; you're still stock tune and you baby it.

Well I experienced compression loss in cylinder 2. Compression results were 150,30,150,150. I had a lot of blow by oil in my intake, and fmic piping so I installed a vta catch can. I then experienced blue smoke. Switch to closed can and next day has a cylinder 2 misfire. Will be taking apart to examine issue but engine only has 61k. Frequent oil changes with T6.

Have 06 speed 6 with 150000 pulled out to pass a car running about 40 mph in 5th went to shift to 6th just started shaking so far have found out no compression on # 1 cylinder will post more when I get the head off

Can anyone tell me if the stock pistons are cast or forged in the mazdaspeed 6

As far as I know they are forged but it's also the alloy which matters. And when those pistons heat up it's usually the ringlands which till take you into the no compression on cyl #whatever land.

They are hyperutectic and they are cast.
The rods are sintered.

Finally got the head off my 06 ms6 both exhaust valves have the edge broke the bottom end of the motor seems solid taking head to shop tomorrow to see what the damage will be

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Let's hope your motor rebuilding skills are better than your sentence building skills.

@mzr0818; yours happened in 6th as well, correct?

Well I'm new to the ZZB club...lucky me. I was driving (06' Speed6 GT) to work and on a long sweeping highway merge from another highway. I dont remember exactly, but i was probably cruising around 55 to 60 and in 6th gear (should have been in 5th but hindsight is 20/20).

Anyways, no indication, no rod knock, no oil light...nothing. Car stalled on the banked curve and I immediately guided it to the shoulder. Two tow trucks later at the nearest Mazda dealership they tell me it was low on oil (was about to change the oil in 3 days!) and they tried starting it and sure enough it sounded like rod knock. Got my Grand Chkee and towed it back home. I took the valve cover off and dropped the pan and still havent seen anything major. All rods were intact from what i could see and both cams seemed in good condition. Ill be taking pics and posting them but its really strange. I was expecting to see metal pieces or atleast a bent or broken rod.

Maybe its possible i bent some valves and didnt shred the engine?

More to follow...

PS I'm 100 percent stock

Well there is your problem. That stock tune has blown more ms6s than any internal-less downpipe ever thought about. How many miles? Oil choice? Gonna rebuild? Sorry to hear man.

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[QUOTE=ItsNox;2912702]Well there is your problem. That stock tune has blown more ms6s than any internal-less downpipe ever thought about. How many miles? Oil choice? Gonna rebuild? Sorry to hear man.

103k miles...my second mistake was not using Rotella. I used Mobil 1 instead which isnt shit but after reading extensively on here about the differences I realize I should have been using Rotella all along.

I'm strongly considering a rebuild but the wife isnt too happy about that....you can guess my 3rd mistake

Have to add my self to this list just blew my engine a couple days ago

Details?

dumb way to go out but i was parking after some tough love on the high way some black smoke came came out figured id hold it at 2k to clear it out and boom hole in the block.
the only mod is a intake no knock just let go

I need to be added to this list too.
2008 Mazdaspeed 3 GT at 108k. Mods: intake, tip, hpfp internals, downpipe, test pipe, fmic, e85 protune.
I was leaving a stoplight, a passing Subaru yelled out the window so my ego told me to be a dickbutt and run it through some gears. Banged through 2nd then started to smoke like a god damn concentration camp chimney. Got to the gas station and pulled the oil filler cap and blew smoke out of there as well as my vented secondary OCC. Checked the plugs and cylinder #4 was pretty foulrd and covered in what seems to be oil. I've been having blow by issues, added a 40k mile turbo onto it thinking it was the seals. Currently into the motor now about to pull the head to see what happened but assuming it's a ringland

Have a vdyno curve to show what not to tune for?

think i blew my motor
 

so while getting on the interstate last night while under boost i heard a bang and the car jerked and a bunch of smoke shot out of the exhaust. i immediately pulled over and the car had shut off. all the oil was on the ground. the car is a 13 pu with 29k on it. i have all bolt ons and a custom tune. the car is still under warranty. the shop that put all the parts on can't get my car in until next week sometime so i can stock it out and get it to the dealer. im going to remove most of the mods myself except for the DP and internals. when i explained what happened over the phone, the guy at the shop says it sounds like i may have blown a hole in the motor. i will have to pay to rent a car until it gets to the shop and hopefully the dealer will provide a loaner. im just venting on here and if anyone has any sound advice, im all ears. thanks guys.

Who tuned it?

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