Yes sir

yeah im gonna try that.

ask for the piping only, When I emailed them they said yes that they would sell me the piping. I did more research and your core is pretty good.

He said without the core....

yeah they offered me everything in the kit minus the core and the bov and brackets. for 430. which is a bit expensive imo since PG was only 250. il shoot them that offer see what they say

Yeah 430 is a bit expensive for CX. Just be patient, you might find something here.

yeah i offered them 250 see what they say, il start a WTB thread. thanks.

Again COBB is expensive but has the BEST piping kit out there in terms of

1. Number of pipes in set 3 only, compared to 5+ pieces in other sets.
2. routing of the pipes is best design ive seen.
3. Stainless steel t-bolt clamps
4. 2.5 inch piping for your BT
5. powder coat "+15hp"

the fuck when i asked they were gonna charge me 270 shipped. Mofos raised the price to the roof

Don't shoot me for this question, but you guys have no idea how many times I hear confliction opinions:

In South Florida, what is best to use? An upgraded TMIC or a FMIC?

I hear many saying here it really doesn't matter, that obviously FMIC is cooler overall, but the TMIC gets colder at higher speeds.

It's all conflicting as fuck.

FMIC.... because racecar

x2.

I had a TMIC and it would heat soak a lot.

It depends on your budget. But generally a FMIC will yield lower BATs and hence more power. Especially when you have had the car sitting after going WOT. A FMIC's core won't be affected by heat soak, which isn't the case for even an upgraded TMIC. The only downside is with the K04 a FMIC will lag for about half a second to a second more in comparison to a TMIC due to the larger piping. But like I said, the first thing you have to realize is budget.

Also, if you want a decent sized FMIC core you will have to remove/modify your front crash bar. Vendors like UR and cp-e sell replacement crash bars.

yes they did. ima check my email see if they respond.

looking back through my email, I noticed that I didnt email cx racing directly. I emailed one of their vendors called XS power,email them at sales@ssautochrome.com.Tell them that you bought an XS power intercooler from a friend or something and that now you need the piping for your ms3.They should tell you yes and ask for your adress, just give it a try.


Edit: My bad again the price was 295 shipped

thank you! and well not as bad as 430

Really?

lol
 

no on the 15 lmao was little j/k on here NATOR DECAL +20

that's why @A1ex wants one :)

I sent you a friend request on FB yesturday dood...

i accepted u

what cbe do you have??\

btw I just checked fb and u didnt add me

o.O post me your link, and cbe? sorry im noob..

inb4 :kiss:

so what shall be my next upgrade? got the EBSC what shall i get next?

You have a cracked PMM...so that

well i was thinking that, just talking about performance wise. so i can have the car running good and be able to finally get a good tune. and then do my TMM and PMM

If your motor mount let go, you will not have an engine to tune :) There were few guys who end up with collapsed block b/c of bad mounts....

EBCS + tune, should fix your WG issues. If not, Bucker will tell you what to get next performance wise.

Just some advice. If you want performance, then you need the supporting mods. One thing that amazes me about Felipe and Velocity Factor is their level of fucking stupidity when it comes to "building" a car like this. Put a big turbo with a half-assed welded hot IC pipe, leave the stock boost controller, and leave all the stock mounts minus a cp-e paperweight which has had a high failure rate.

All I'm saying is if you tune your car, you will have to do several data logs. In those logs, you will be placing 450+ lb-ft of torque in your mounts/axles. Even more now that the car will be tuned properly. I would not do it, especially knowing your PMM/RMM have been broken for a long period of time, putting more stress on your TMM. If that goes, well that's it for your built engine.

OP needs to PM @jbarone and get some motor/trans mounts before his engine falls out.

@S3BAZ1091, plus not just your engine, but your GF too will appreciate the JBR mounts :)

very very good points. guess my next purchases shall be my TMM and PMM. thanks guys. didnt realize it. till you put it that way. ive been contacting corksport and cobb to see if i can make a deal with them for the piping. thanks. il keep updated on purcahses and such.

so i was able to install the boost controller have a look!


http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9...9170826.th.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/443...9170835.th.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/931...9181124.th.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4...9181133.th.jpg
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/2...9190445.th.jpg
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4...9190456.th.jpg

Nice! Sorry I couldn't help, week schedule is busy. But you're learning the ways of NATOR and seeing how much more satisfying it is to work on your own car than paying people like Felipe/PJ to do it.

no biggie, i understand. and yeah very accomplishing but frustrating trying to put back that stupid coupler. but question.. now im running low boost only 10. is that normal? Digno guided me through it today, said its because its not calibrated yet. so bucker has to tune me first. or is it that i have a leak?

You're probably on a spring pressure map right now. When I started 3 port mode, I started on spring pressure and gradually worked my way up.

Yeah Bucker will gradually increase boost as you tune.

Oh OK just wanted to make sure I don't have a leak or something. Still waiting on his reply.