Yeah, ran the oil for ~3500 miles... Car has ~45k on it...

I usually use the castrol syntec, but I guess I'll have to do an analysis of that oil too, to see how it holds up compared to rotella.

I also only run M1 or B&M (rebadged M1) oil filters - the larger size since I Have the spin-on conversion.

The majority of my miles are highway.

I also run an OCC and 50/50 Meth, so those should help too...

Any opinion on the 10w/40 vs 5w/40?

Thanks for the input!

You're in a warm weather climate and summer is approaching. I'd go with 10w40. Typically the larger the spread on the numbers the more an oil will shear due to having more viscosity index improvers. So since the spread between 10 and 40 is less than the spread between 5 and 40, it will be more shear resistant. I'd go with the 10w40.

I changed out my German Castrol and put in some Rotella T6 5w40. This is for my summer run, should do better in the heat. Hard to deny the impressive UOA's this oil has had.

I wanted to go with the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 as it looks a little better to me, but I would have to order it online and it's a bit more expensive. The Rotella T6 is readily available and extremely well priced!

Remind me - I have an old analysis to post as well as one up-coming with the use of Marvel's Mystery Oil (only one 'brave' enough to try it.)

Here's my first UOA. I've ran PP 5w30 since the second oil change and usually change it every 4500 - 5000 miles. I did this UOA with only 3500 on the oil because that weekend I went to a cruise with hard driving and didn't want put the engine at risk.

Experts, please chime in. Thanks!

Ran the T6 Rotella for 1k miles and just put in some Redline 10w40. Group V polyol ester's baby. There is NO SUBSTITUTE! :P

Turbo spools up like never before, engine is so f'n peppy now!! Wow I'm shocked. Redline ftmfw! This is all I will ever put in my car again. 6% NOACK is godly! That along with the esters should dramatically reduce intake valve deposits known for Direct Injected vehicles. It's expensive but man, I don't think I could ever go back.

Do any autoparts stores carry redline products? Whered you get yours from.

I bought it online through Amazon. Order by the case (12 quarts) for a cheaper price. This oil has a NOACK of only 6% and is ester based. This will dramatically cut down on intake deposits formed by the Direct Injection. It has has an extremely high HTHS rating!! Easily the best oil for our cars.

Can you explain what makes it better than say, M1 or Syntec...? Are other oils not "ester based" and what is that exactly?

HTHS rating?
NOACK?

sorry, oil noob :jester:

Im noob to the oil stuff to but if you look at my m1 synthetic uoa's they are pretty bad compared to those using pp or rotella. Im now using rotella since im a pp hater-discussion for another day-and i will have a new uoa for the rotella to hopefully get me in spec with the wear patterns of others using better quality oils. Best bang for the buck is definately rotella and theres enough uoa's to back it.

I too am interested in what makes the redline so good.

I agree that PP and Rotella UOA's look better than Mobil 1, however, at a 5k mile interval I can't see it making that much of a difference. Sure the UOA's look better, but has the M1 been out of spec? As long as it is doing what is intended at the time you drain it, that is what matters in my book. If you are looking for extended drain periods then yes, I agree PP and Rotella make a better choice.

Am I wrong? I have not changed the oil in my car yet and am trying to learn as well.

to the top, anyone? I am changing my oil for the first time on thursday and trying to decide between M1, Rotella, and PP.

i have been using Rotella for the past 20k miles, love it.

I first used mobile 1 it would reek of gas after 1k miles i switch to PP then it was great untill i started to smoke. So i now use 5w-40 Rotella and havent looked back.

I bought 6 quarts of PP 5w30 yesterday ($30 after coupon), but now I notice that people are talking about the European formula. I feel like I am back to square 1 and have no idea what to run. Is the regular PP good or only the Euro formula? (I plan to go with 5000 mile drain intervals)

if youre running the stock exhaust, 5w-30 is fine.

you will be fine. i've ran pp 5w30 for 40k miles

Changed the oil yesterday at 3202 miles. It was black. I took a sample and will be sending it to Blackstone.

And on that note, those of you that have sent oil in for analysis... Did you tape the lid on the container from blackstone? I don't like the fact that my credit card info is in there.

yes tape the lid

I sent a check instead of putting cc info...

I thought about that as well, but would rather have my CC info stolen than my checking account info. Oh well, I sent it today with the lid taped.

HTHS = High Temperature High Shear rating. It's a measurement to inidicate how well an oil resists shearing in a high temperature stressful application. The higher the number the better. Oil's like Redline, Amsoil and various grades from various brands usually have a high rating. I believe over a 3.2 is to euro specs. Redline 10w40 that I'm running is like 4.6 or somewhere in there. That's VERY high. But basically this can help from your oil shearing out of grade. Our car's call for a 30weight, Pennzoil Platinum has a fairly low HTHS and it pretty much shears out of grade within 1k miles (down to a 20 weight). This is not necessarily as bad as it sounds, as PP UOA's prove out that they continue to provide a very high level of wear protection. So just one thing like HTHS isn't everything. It's just nice to have. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and read those forums and you will have all you will ever want to know. Over there, I'd be considered and infant newb. These guys are oil guru's.

NOACK is much more important for a car like ours where we have an issue of carbon buildup on the intake valves due to having a Direct Injected vehicle. Becase of this, gasoline never touches the intake valves and passes over it like other cars. This is important b/c fuel and their cleaning additives wash over them continually in other cars and keep them fairly clean. However, in our car, in around 15k miles you would simply not believe what the buildup on ours looks like. It can be hideous and this can affect performance. The only solution at that point is basically manually do it, requiring you to to do some serious mechanic work. There are solutions like BG but I've recently seen before and after pics of that process that pretty much proved it does next to nothing, despite their claims. There are preventitive measures however. An Oil Catch Can, can go a long way's in helping to prevent buildup. Another and IMO, the most significant, is getting an oil with a very low NOACK volatility rating. Volatization is what happens to the oil as it is heated to the point it begins to "boil off." You should probably just go google it at this point as it's much better said elsewhere than I could ever say it, but having very low volatility is known to help prevent intake valve deposits in D.I. cars like ours. So to me, when I say Redline (6% on some) or AMSOIL (%5.7 on some) are better oils, it's is mainly with these NOACK numbers in mind for OUR application. In a normal car, thishas a far less significant factor in determining oil than ours. In ours, it makes a big difference in long term care and performance of the car.

The reason I singled our Redline in particular is b/c it is an ester basestock oil. This is a Group V oil, the best known to man. We don't know what percent, but it's pretty well accepted them and Motul probably have the most (though I don't like Motul's NOACK rating). AMSOIL is thought to be a Group IV basestock oil with some Group V additives. To be honest, all of the oil companies mix differing amounts of different groups of oils. And generally, to most cars, the end result is the only thing that matters. Some Group III base oils are better than some that may use some Group IV. Again, it's all about the right mixtures and additive packages. Group III's do some things better than IV or V and vice versa. Solvency for one. But it's the end package. So like I said, the end results is what matters... except in our case it actually does matter a bit more if it's more of an ester (Gr-V) based oil b/c as I said earlier, each groups of oils do some things better than the others. Well, Group V just so happens to be much better at preventing volatizing and ending up sticking and burning onto the valves. Ester's seem to somehow just stay a sort of sticky mixture that can come off of the valves itself eventually. This is something speciallty oils like RLI came into play... trying to attack the D.I. issues using all these known things. I really don't like RLI's product though, expensive and again, it's the overall package. It just so happens Redline incidentally is built in a way that helps with D.I. and is a really great overall built oil too.

You also get cool benefits like esters sticking to engine internals better and longer, this helps on startups. It also is probably the best cleaning of all basestocks. Ester based oils like Redline will keep your internal ridiculously clean.

This is why the guys in the know factor in EVERYTHING. The car, the technology of the car matters, the drivers habits, the amount of idling, city, highway driving. Are you racing, are you towing. All of this all comes into play and if you know enough about all of these and about the available oils and their properties, you can make really wise decisions that will help address specific problems. As in our case.

So forgetting all else but the technology of the car, my recommendations would be...

Run a really great oil that has ester basestocks and a low NOACK. But that's not the best answer for YOU. Everyone's different and everything comes into play. But I would definitely keep the D.I. intake valve deposit issue high on your consideration.

Also, nyghtryder, both Pennzoil and Rotella are made by Shell, so not sure if you realized that since you said you hated Pennzoil... you're not doing them any harm really. ;P Though I will definitely concur with most everyone here, best bang for your buck, Rotella 5w40 and never look back. Price to performance ratio is off the charts.

my 2 copper's


Best regards

well fml then...I refuse to support pensoil

guess ill be switching to redline soon.

Wow! Thanks for the info man!

Don't forget to knock Quaker State of your list, and of course Shell.

But Redline is a wise, indeed VERY wise decision to drop in your DISI 2.3l Turbo. The only downside is cost. It is quite expensive. Online is about the only place you can get decent prices, if you buy a case. But the cost does sting. lol

One of the nice benefits I and others have seen is seeing a quite noticeable improvement in turbo spool. Those ester based oils are some slickery stuff and I noticed immediately more "pep in my step". I ran Rotella T6 before this and that is stout as hell, but Redline will be what I will use for now until something better comes along. That quick turbo spooling was quite impressive. And it really is a fantastic oil.

where you buying redline from?

I think he mentioned earlier, from online...

fuck redline, why waste the money when rotella t-syn runs great and probably half the cost?

Shpankey have you ran any oil samples on the redline?

Not yet. Going to do a few runs first. As for where I bought it... last time was on Amazon mostly b/c I get free 2 day shipping. Though there are some other places online that will give u free shipping on orders over $100.

As for my reasons for Redline over the Rotella T6, which I've ran both, I think I've stated it very clearly already, above.

Holy Shit! Just googled the price of Redline 10w-40

$106.00 !!!!

Wow... this better fix the paint chips in my hood too...

Edit - this is for a case of 12 - basically 2 oil changes w/o the BSD

shpankey, any opinion on Royal Purple vs. Red Line vs. Amsoil? RP seems to be a bit cheaper, I'm just wondering if it's as good as RL and also how Amsoil fits in...

Royal Purple is good oil. Do you have a particular viscosity in mind? Try to find the data sheets of it and post it's specs so we can have a look see.

If you run $8 a quart oil and still change it every 3k miles, you're insane. I bet you can run that Redline oil for 10k miles.

I'm looking at 10w-40.... I ended up getting a case of Amsoil to try out.... We'll see how it does, lol...

Who the heck is running Redline at online 3k mi.? Damn sure not me. lol It's definitely a LDI oil. Oh, and where are you getting Redline for $8? I want in on that!


The AMSOIL 10w40 will serve you well. Almost got it too. Low NOACK, high HTHS. I'd b/c a preferred customer if I were you though. It's what I did, saves a ton. I have a LOT of AMSOIL stuff out in the garage. Definitely will do well for you imo.

lol yeah! i signed up for the 6 month trial, and on oil and a filter, even with the $10 cost of the membership, it ended up saving me over $25! (would have been around $35, but take out the $10 for membership)

I also ordered a rear wiper blade, which no one but the dealer seems to have up till now...

Nice!

If you do a couple runs (don't bother with a UOA on this run, as this oil will be doing a lot of cleaning) I'd love to see a 2nd, or 3rd run UOA on it. But you may want to go to 7.5k and UOA making sure you get a TBN too, to see where that's at, so we can tell how much further to take it out (or take out earlier if issue arises). Honestly, that oil can do that mileage no sweat, so don't bother unless you want to really bad and have cash. But it won't tell us much wear wise (probably elevated actually, due to the Groups 4, 5 doin their thang). But the TBN and TAN could be beneficial. Though I wouldn't waste a UOA there. Get it maybe on the 2nd run, but on the 3rd run for sure. We will have a nice clean UOA to start from. Make sure you get the TBN for sure, and the TAN would be nice too. You have a really great oil and it holds a lot of promise for us in my mind. Can't wait for results after awhile.

I'm going to do a 7.5k of Redline 10w40 pull it and put the same back in and do a 7.5k UOA w/ TBN & TAN and see where the oil's at and how much further I can take it out. The oil itself could mostly likely go past 10k miles easy, but it's always better to be safe, and it doesn't hurt to run one initial short 7.5k mile run to do some cleaning & refill w/ the same stuff and have a good clean %100 of your oil from scratch, coming in from behind itself to UOA with. Seeing it, then we can look how much further we can go out on the oil.

My choices are still wide open. I wanted to run the AMSOIL that hnda, is running (I almost did). I would also like to get (or see) a run of Royal Purple (XPR) [Extreme Performance & Racing] Synthetic Oil really bad. This is another great boutique oil that holds a lot of promise and is really customized nicely for a street rodder like me who will occasionally go tot he drags and loves to run the car hard in spurts.

I might also try Redline's low moly formula's, I have a feeling they will show better wear oddly enough. Just something I seen at BITOG where a guy ran 5w40 Redline (this is low moly) 4 times in a row then switched to a mix of 5w30 and 10w40 (both high in moly) and had startling results. Though we are near positive something else is at play, not the moly in the oil as it is an anti-wear additive, it's downside only being it can hurt cats.

Hope you're in for the long haul hnda. Now if we can just find someone to run Royal Purple XPS 3 or 4 times in a row and get a few UOA's on the last few. It would be great to compare and see how they all do. Also Motul 300v. I would love to see a run of it in our car. The scoobie guys favorite on their forum. Lots and lots of them guys run it with really nice results.

p.s.

If anyone's wondering about warranty. I have 3 other vehicles that all run 5w30. So when I buy their oils, I don't buy them boutiques like the above. I use those receipts and save them along with my filter receipts from Wal-mart (I buy Motorcraft 2017B) filter in bulk and save that receipt. Keep all in my service log. My other cars are all out of warranty so this is perfect. I run any oil I want but have receipts of certified PCMO oil's along with filters for my car for service warranty requirements.

Something that just came to mind is how are magnetic drain bolts affecting uoa's. I have used them in other cars and and wanting to do so in this one, but Im curious as to how much, if any its going to affect the uoa?

IMO, not much of any, if at all. As long as you let the oil drain and catch your sample mid-stream, as you should be doing anyway, any surrounding metals collecting near the drain will have already washed out.

I just installed a magnetic drain bolt before my last oil change - and that's the oil change that I sent in for UOA..

I wasn't expecting to really see much, but there did end up being crap stuck to the magnet, which scares me.... That means that there's some type of iron or steel floating around in the oil, which has to be coming from the motor, right?

Probably just normal break-in wear metals. I wouldn't worry about it. Post the UOA when you get it though! :)

p.s. what was the oil you used again? I guess it's possible it could be from just a poor oil.

Remember, my car had about 45K miles when I sent in the UOA, so I don't think it was wear in materials... I was using Rotella...

hnda,

I've been recently talking with Chris, from AMSOIL, about our cars, and they recommended their 10w40 XL (extended life aka: XLO). I've been reading the specs on it and this is a pretty amazing oil for the price. It looks like it's a Group IV (PAO) basestock; not sure what group on additives though. If you become one of their preferred customers ($10 for 6 months); it has all the right numbers that I'm interested most in too...

AMSOIL 10w40 XL
NOACK: 5.7%
HTHS: 4.3
TBN: 9.0
PRICE: $5.30

I would be interested if anyone could find me another oil with those numbers at all. Other than Redline, which does equal those specs, but it's twice the price. Motul's 300v if I remember has a much higher NOACK, something I dearly wanted to keep low to help with the intake valve deposit issues with D.I. A low NOACK is a must for me! But for the price, I honestly don't think this oil can be touched. Those are some awesome specs. More here...

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlo.aspx

I talked with MJ from Mobil 1 and they recommended M1 0w40. It's another Grp IV basestock (PAO), and I'm pretty sure it's Grp V add pack. But it's their only only oil that says European Formula on it... which is good b/c those are much tougher specs and they usually run longer OCI's over there. Hell of a cool guy btw. He sent me an awesome M1 stickers package. I put some on my car, very tasteful done though, and they are flat out gorgeous! I have pics btw. lol

I'd love to try out the Royal Purple XPR 10w40 but I can't find anything on it at all; and man is it expensive. The most expensive of the lot. But from what I've gathered it's Grp V base w/ Grp V add pack. So it's the real deal. But at $4 more than Redline, I'm finding it hard to justify. Their SAE oil's are great though. I know they're Grp IV base with Grp. V add pack. And the price is in line with Redline. Still, man would I love to see a triple run of 10w40 XPR w/ UOA's!

I looked at the XL, but I ended up going with the "premium" version of their 10w-40 (https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx) hopefully the spec are as good/better than the XL.....

The AMO? Yeah, some are better, some are (very little) worse. I know one thing I like about that one though, the high zinc! That's a really great anti-wear additive. It can hurt cats over a long period but it would take a lot for a long time and I'm not concerned about the cats. Zinc is awesome to prevent wear and will turn up awesome UOA's with really low wear numbers.

NOACK is 6.7% btw. Very low. HTHS is 4.3 I believe.

Oh ya it costs a little bit more for AMO too. Nothing dramatic though.

I'll have my third Penzoil Platinum 5w40 UOA with the TBN in the next week and half or so. Right now I have just over 6,000 miles on this oil.

Just changed my Castrol syntec 5w-40 today... Will be sending it in for UOA and TBN.

Installed an Amsoil oil filter, and used Amsoil's 10w-40... I plan on next oil change in 4500 miles, then another UOA...

Will post Syntec UOA when it gets in...

shpankey, what's TBN?

TBN stands for Total Base Number. Basically it's how much active additive that's left in the oil. Blackstone considers an oil with a TBN of 1.0 or lower to be spent. TBN is weird it can start off high or medium high in an oil, it can go down fast to a certain point and then level out and take awhile after that.

Not many of us here are in any way pushing the TBN of these oils, so don't worry unless you start going over 7.5k miles and then it's a good thing to look at, especially if you are trying to extend out an oil in your car further. Which is really what tests like Blackstone are best at, testing the oil's condition, not your car's wear necessarily, though it can be sometimes helpful in that area.

07 MS6 RLI 5w40 Biosyn, 6K OCI
 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From left to right Factory Fill, MC 5w30 GC 0w30, Shell Rotella T Syn 5w40, Amsoil Euro 5w40, Bruce Blend 5w40, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, and RLI 5w40HDx2

Miles on Sample 1274 1750 4211 1376 4512 2936 3319 4051 4362
Iron 14 10 16 8 13 16 13 9 17 28
Chrom 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 2
Lead 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 2
Copper 187 75 114 40 13 6 4 4 98 109 (part of add pack, usually around 200 in VOA)
Tin 0 5 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0
Alum 5 6 6 0 3 2 4 2 3 4
Nickel 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Silver 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Sil 59 19 10 5 3 3 4 3 3
Boron 6 154 28 5 52 18 47 36 5 1
Sodium 0 0 0 3 5 11 7 13 20 20
Magni 19 13 473 94 20 9 606 577 117 33
Calc 1706 2027 1931 3328 1843 1730 1282 1000 2726 2780
Barium 0 0 0 0 0 85 15 1 0 0
Phos 944 935 1006 1425 753 1428 1008 1013 1390 1399
Zinc 1044 1050 1115 1454 948 875 1102 1043 1600 1587
Moly 100 48 9 2 0 1 2 3 0 0
Titan 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Van 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Potas 0 0 0 0 2 2 1 1 0 0
Antim 0 0 0 0 2 2 0 0 111 162
Fuel% <1 <1 <1 <.5 0 0 <.1 .568 1.81 1.81
Visc @100c cst 9.06 8.59 10.87 12.8 11.73 11.68 11.9 12.8 13.2 12.4
Water% NA NA NA <.1 NA NA <.1 (KF) 724 577 423
Coolant NO NO NO NO NO <.1 0 0 0
Soot N/A N/A N/A <.1 NA NA <.1 0 .02 .03
TBN 4.84 5.14 6.04 9.48 3.25 4.79 3.83 6.1 7.4 4.2

Nitr N/A N/A N/A 15 NA 19 11 12 12
Oxid N/A N/A N/A 11 NA 20 20 138 157(STARTS AT 154, COMMON WITH ESTER BASED OILS)
Flash 380 260 260(WOULD BE ABOUT 310 OPEN CUP, STARTES AT 375 CLOSED CUP, 428 OPEN CUp)
TAN 3.24 NOT DETECTABLE DUE TO COLOR OF OIL AGAIN
VI 166 (starts at 167) 189 178(STARTS AT 189)

Certainly not impressive this round of RLI given its cost. However, I have been running it pretty hard at RPMs averaging 4K for a 6K OCI. Oil filter was a Pure1, which regretably didnt reduce soot from fuels blow by. However, on that one I have been experimenting with mixing for octane improvement and to lean the fuels so that could have contributed. Car sees mostly highway use for extended times and there is still fuel in the oil so heating doesnt get it all out. From the Sil #s cotton filters obviously dont let all that much dirt in with a well designed intake. Car is now at 35K miles, bone stock with no issues.

If the next OCI, which is being reduced to 5K miles doesnt improve significantly I will be moving to Rotella T5, maybe T6.

Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 45,000 mile oil change, with roughly 5,000 miles on oil.

This was the second oil change I used PP, before that I was Mobil 1.

At the 45,000 mile oil change I changed over to Pennzoil Ultra, and will get an analysis done when I hit around 51,000 miles which should be pretty soon.

Here's my latest. I hadn't gotten an analysis done in quite some time. The new Rotella T6 Syn 5w-40. Looks like all is well. I will continue to use the Rotella.

Man, that Rotella just continues to impress.

Heres the latest. Second sample on rotella t6 5w-40. LMK what you guys think.

Not bad. Strange that copper is so high. It's always been high, even from the get go. Time to drive that thing harder!

i wish i could 3rd gear is damn near gone and i need to dedicate a weekend to going back to stock to get it fixed.

Iron is up. Should I be scurrrred?

I did put my FMIC on back in April. I have a suspicion that I might be running lean in the 3-4k rpm range. Should probably get a tune I guess. I also think I should stop running my oil this long. I'm going to change it again at 3500-4000 miles and see whats up.

What kind of oil is that? Are you intercooler pipes steel?

Same oil I've been using, PP 5w-40. IC pipes are aluminum? I think; its the cp-e kit.

Mazdaspeed 3/6 UOA Results
 

Been 3 weeks since I sent in my last Sample to blackstone, and no word... Looks like USPS lost it or something...

At least it wasn't the Amsoil sample...

Mine took a lot longer this time, they must be backed up.
Took over a month for mine.

Mine was about 3 weeks or so sent USPS Priority. Every time I go to the post office with the container Blackstone gives you the person behind the counter gives me a hard time when I tell him/her there's motor oil in it. Then I have to take it out of the container and show them that it's in another container, with absorbent material, in a plastic bag and they're like... oh.. ok, I guess that'll be fine.

Just use the machine at the post office to print out the shipping label and pay and then throw it in the mailbox at the P.O.
Or do like I do and put it in my mailbox at home with stamps on it (the website tells you how much) put the mailbox flag up.......... and like magic it disappears with no hassle and no questions. :wink:

Mazdaspeed 3/6 UOA Results
 

Hmmm... Hopefully that's it then! Guess we'll see...

Mazdaspeed 3/6 UOA Results
 

My first sample I dropped off at the post office, the counter person asked me what it was and I told her used motor oil... She said ok, and that someone else had dropped off a sample for mailing the week before, so no hassles lol

I even had the blackstone info sheet printed out ready to hand over...

The last sample, different post office, no problem there either... Lucky I guess...

Here's my UOA finally...

This is for Castrol Syntec 5w40 @ ~4500 miles. Next one will be Amsoil 10w40 at around 5-5.5k miles (have couple thousand more miles to go)

What the heck... how in the Sam-Arooni is your Copper so low? Stellar report! If it was me, I'd stick with what you're doing.

That first report, that says 3,500 mi on the engine can NOT be correct. lol, those low wear numbers are impossible on this car at 3,500. It's still breaking in!! I'm going to guess that is a mistake and they meant 3,500 miles on the oil, not the engine. lol :P

Yeah, it's supposed to be 3500 on the oil...

the first UOA is on Rotella, second on Castrol Syntec... What about the drops in Molybdenum and Boron from rotella to castrol? Does that mean the rotella was better in those areas? And all the other areas where the numbers are different... ?

That's a nice UOA on the Syntec. I've seen it in Pep Boys and have been tempted during their occasional "deals" where you can buy 5 quarts and a Pure One filter for about $26. Great deal IMO, but I have never tried it. Looks like another good off the shelf option, although I'll most likely stick with Rotella. Your TBN looks great for 4,500 miles. I've never had one that high on Rotella.

Yeah, don't worry about the drop in Moly and Boron. These are the additives, Castrol just goes about it differently, notice how some of their add's are more than Rotella. Your car is a beautifully wearing car man. Either one of those oils are great.

Still, your low Copper amazes me. lol :)

Hrm, I didn't realize there were two UOA threads with similar titles (Mazdaspeed 3/6 UOA Results vs Speed3/Speed6 UOA Links). Reposting here since this seems to have more activity:


Here's my first oil analysis:
I have approx 25k miles on my MS6, I paid the extra for the TBN analysis. 3300 miles on conventional 10/30 Valvoline oil (something like $11 for the 5-qt jug) in the hot Phoenix Az heat (90-110+ all day/night).

I'm going to try 5k miles for the next analysis & see how that comes out. It's nice knowing the expensive synthetics aren't really necessary for daily driving.

SJ, what type of driving? Avg trip distance, MPG, driving style (WOT, etc), fuel brand?

So uh is there a reason I can't see attachments anymore?

Oaky, I'm just waiting on my test kit now. I'll be testing Shell Rotella T 5W-40 to the max. It has seen 3000 miles, one track day at 270F for over an hour, and a run up and down the dragon at 250F for less than an hour.

It's out of the car now, I'm hoping to see how well it holds up to high temps for extended periods of time and fuel dilution.

Haltech took it away from the browns


Gotta donate yo

Oh.
They're not that important. *shrugs* Thanks for the answer though. :)

Sorry, I completely missed this:
85% city driving, one trip of ~500 highway miles in 95+ degree ambient temp doing 75mph+ the whole way.
Average trip distance in-city ~15-20 miles (mostly to/from work)
I'm getting low 20's mpg (21-23 generally)
Decent amount of WOT, testing out my cobb maps. Go WOT at least 2-3x every drive. I make sure to let the car cool (no WOT within 2-3 minutes) before shutting down as conventional cokes turbo passages more easily than synthetic.
Usually Costco (not sure what brand fuel they use) 91 octane (best we get in Az).

Oil or tune are doing very well, thank you for the feed back.

Attached is latest UOA from Blackstone.

The only thing incorrect about the report is that they identify the oil as 5w/40 when it is actually Amsoil 10w/40

Wonder why the magnesium dropped to 62 this time... last test was in 200's (first Amsoil test)

Not sure why fuel % went up either....

Not sure if I want to go all the way out to 8000 miles either..

Thoughts from the knowledgeable?

Anyone using penzoil ultra? Is it more like the euro penzoil?

Just an update to the Gen 1 stock oil filter (cartridge) cross reference part numbers...

AC Delco - PF1703
Auto Extra - 61857203
Baldwin - P7313
Beck/Arnley - 041-0817
Bosch Distance Plus - D3314
Bosch Premium - 3314
Carquest - 84203
Champ - P960
Defense - DL9641
Ford OEM - FL-2017B
Ford - 1S7G-6744-AC
Ford - 3M4G-6714-AA
Ford - 3M4G-6744-AA
Ford - 3M4Z-6714-AA
Ford - 3M4Z-6744-AC
Ford - 3S7Z-6731-A
Fram ExtraGuard - CH9641
Fram ToughGuard - TG9641
Group 7 - V5505
Hastings - LF594
Havoline - T-59
Intercontinental Auto Parts - ALO-8135
K&N - HP-7013
Lube-Finer - P960
Mann & Hummel - HU711/2
Mann & Hummel - ML 1019
Mazda OEM - L321-14-302-9U
Mazda - L321-14-300
Mazda - L321-14-302
Mazda - LF01-14-302
Microgaurd - MGL9641
Mighty - M960
Mileguard - CH9641
Mobil - MO5505
Mobil 1 Extended Performance - M1C-153
Motorcraft - FL-2017B
Motorcraft - FL-2017A
NAPA - 7203
NAPA Gold – FIL 2703
NAPA ProSelect - SFI 27203
Pennzoil - PZ-159
Performax - PQ-159
Performax - PO-159
Power Flo - SL15505
Pro-Tec - 190
Pronto - PO5505
Purolator Classic - L15505
Purolator PureOne - PL15505
Security - CH-9641
Service Pro - M5505
Silverline - 27203
Supertech - ST9641
Wix - 57203

Yep. Just had this done at Lab One in Phoenix...great place, very nice staff and a great price, too! Just $15.00 for UOA, and they'lll provide a sterile container and envelope for mailing them samples.

-2010 Mazdaspeed 3 stock
-changed out dealer/factory oil at 1773 miles
-Using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
-genuine Mazda oil filter

Good to know changing out the oil @ 5000 miles is recommended from Mazda even though this is synthetic. Looking forward to seeing my next report after another 5000 miles of use. I then might go to 7500 mile changes, hopefully.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21.../oilreport.jpg

Here's my UOA with the factory fill. Just wanted to see how much the factory oil sheared.

[html][/html]I've been loving the penzoil ultra man.

i bet the feels comforting

Here is the result from my first run with Rotella T5 10W-30. I used this oil through out the winter in Maryland and took a sample to make sure there weren’t any bad effects from using a thicker start up oil. I will probably go a little longer before I change it out.

Mazdaspeed6
MI/HR on Oil = 1700
MI/HR on Unit = 27088
Oil Change Date = 12/22/2010
Sample Date = 04/06/2011
Make Up Oil Added = 0


ALUMINUM = 2
CHROMIUM = 0
IRON = 4
COPPER = 12
LEAD = 1
TIN = 0
MOLYBDENUM = 1
NICKEL = 0
MANGANESE = 0
SILVER = 0
TITANIUM = 0
POTASSIUM = 3
BORON = 14
SILICON = 5
SODIUM = 53
CALCIUM = 2135
MAGNESIUM = 8
PHOSPHORUS = 901
ZINC = 1032
BARIUM = 0


SUS Viscosity @ 210°F = 57.9 (59-65)
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C = 9.61 (9.9-11.9)
Flashpoint in °F = 385
Fuel % = <0.5
Antifreeze % = 0.0
Water % = 0.0
Insolubles % = 0.4

I had a 3.7 GC % vol Fuel Dilution bufore my OCC. Now I have 2.9%. I use Mobil1 5W30 and change every 3,000 miles. Any idea why its so high? Bad rings? Blow by?

Try switching to the Rotella T6 5w-40. Mobil1 is horrible with fuel dilution. Fuel dilution is probably the most critical aspect of the oil we use.

I've run Mobil 1 5W-30 in my 2007 MS3 since new. I started with a 5,000 mile OCI and now run a 7,500 mile OCI. I have a UOA performed at every oil change and out of 15 UOAs all but two showed a fuel % of <0.5; the remaining two reported only a trace of fuel.

fuck that garbage Mobil 1. get on the good shit, Rotella T6

You will not find a better over the counter oil for this car than Rotella Syn, especially for $21 a gallon. The shit is liquid gold. With the amount of soot and carbon this motor produces in addition to the heat and DI, you need an oil that can handle it. My second choice would be PP, but I'm a big believer in running a 5W-40 and its hard to find.

Tapa-daba-do

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...itend1/UOA.jpg

:sigh:

Thoughts on this, anyone? :dunno:

Related thread here: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-issues-92171/

Shit man, 2.3% fuel after only 700 miles. That's crazy.

Are you running a catch can or EGR block off?

Catch can? Yes. It's been on there since November, and I've taken ~700-800 ml of crap out of it over 4 different drainings since.

EGR Delete/Blockoff? No.

I should really look into this catch can thing... will that void warranty tho?

So here is what my UOA looked like on the same oil after 2000 or so more miles:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Untitled-1.png

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/...lAnalysis1.jpg


The lead level raised my eyebrow (at 33 PPM) - but concerned? Not really.
I have a few guesses as to where it's coming from.
I recently switched to Rotella T6 5-40.
I ran 2 sets through the car, then had the third analyzed - which is what I posted.

1. The last time I had the intercooler off to change the spark plugs I noticed some moisture (a little pool) just before the throttle body - tan/brown in color, probably some oil. Turbo/turbine (K04) oil seal(s) might be tired? Possibly where the lead is coming from also?

2. The filters I've been running (changed 3 times annually) are paper, but the element is "encapsulated" in steel mesh, inside and out. The steel inner mesh is usually rusty when I replace it. Possibly another source?

3. My driving has also recently changed - many more long trips being logged to the cabin (figure just shy of 3k for hours on end, followed by nothing but gravel roads). Apparently, such a change can be responsible for increased lead levels (extended mid/high RPM operation and increased temps leaches lead from the galled surfaces on the crank, galling from intermittent use and consecutive short engine run times).

4. The engine has seen a fair amount of SeaFoam (induced through the master cylinder brake booster hose, and once in the oil). It also sees non-oxygenated (ethanol free) 91 octane Shell fuel about 1/3 of all fillups (Shell 91/92 premium all others), occasional partial race fuel fills (~6 gallons per time, 107-110 octane), way too much on hand for the bikes to digest before it degrades, it's gotta get burned up somehow. Probably nothing responsible for the lead on this one though, maybe.

Reason I'm not very concerned is the car runs fantastic, probably better than it ever has. Plus, iron/steel, aluminum and other pertinent metal levels being pretty much nonexistent.
Time will tell, though, what the eventual source of the lead is.

I'm due for a change in about 1k miles, and I will have the oil analyzed, and will post the results if you don't mind.

Nickel showed up too, not sure where that came from?

Flashpoint is a little low - probably due to the 1.5% fuel dilution.

Just about every other level looks optimal, the Zinc level was nice to see.


I'd be grateful for any thoughts you guys have http://www.tlplanet.com/forums/image...s/bigthumb.gif


- Pete -