MS3 Aluminum radiator
 

I've been looking for a aluminum thicker radiator for the MS3. I haven't find anything online. I found a shop in Temple TX that will make it for $800, but that is a rip off. Does anybody know where I can get a better price, or one already made? I thought about getting the AWR radiator for the MS6 and re-route the houses, but I don't know if that would be the greatest thing to do.

AWR makes one, but it's also $800 with fans/shroud.

AWR builds high performance aluminum radiators for race cars, with extreme cooling needs

Are you having issues with over heating? Honestly, I think this car's radiator is pretty good as it is to be spending that kind of cash on a rad.

The AWR radiator is made by ron davis: Aluminum radiators, custom radiators, and radiator accessories

Send them an email.

It did overheat before. I fixed it, but I was looking to my data logs before and after the fmic installation and I noticed that the ECT is 15 degrees hotter. I want to keep the ECT under 200.

PS: Thanks for the links.

It did overheat before. I fixed it, but I was looking to my data logs before and after the fmic installation and I noticed that the ECT is 15 degrees hotter. I want to keep the ECT under 200.

PS: Thanks for the links.

Mine too, i just installed the TurboXs FMIC on my 2009 Mazdaspeed3 GT and water temps are close to 200..... :( i have thought about adding a 2nd Fan or making the step up to the AWR core and fans.

And thats why I dont have a fmic.

i have the cxracing fmic and see 190 at cruising and 210ish at idle. and that's at 100+ degree ambient temps. those temps are well within normal operating temps.

I'm bumping this oldish thread because it never came to a conclusion and haven't seen any other threads talking about bigger radiators. With my smallish cp-e fmic, my temps at the track were pushing 226 according to the dashhawk. This is with normal 50/50 for the coldish winters up here. Last year I was running like 75% water from just replacing the coolant hose when doing the fmic install. Temps were accross the board 10° cooler. 220+ is just too hot for pushing the car 9/10ths for 20min straight.

I am piecing together everything needed for a 3071 install, so that may have priority for the moment. Prob just drain some coolant and add distilled H20 in the mean time.

Phil,

I'm currently working on a replacement radiator solution.

Once I have more info, I will share.

There must be something from BeCool or Fluidyne that could be adapted. The stock radiator from the dealer with install is around $1000...insane.

Some factory radiators are not cheap.

With my front mount setup I definitely noticed increased temps, but never went over 219 at idle in the hottest socal weather. usually cruising is around 190-200 during the day, and 183-195 at night.

i suggested it to corksport and they said the meeting led them to believe there wasnt a demand:(

@Ziggo - fmic, what temps do you see?
@Nliiitend1 - not sure if you run a fmic
@Tomas
anyone else run on the track hard when the air temp is hot?

I run a fmic, my temps are 170°–180° while i drive, if im sitting, or stuck in traffic it reachs 218° then cools off when i start to move.

I just have the OEM top mount...

Have you considered an oil cooler and thermostat?

according to my oil temp gague, oil was only 180ish tops. do we have options for thermostats? I'm not sure that would help though. As soon as I was pulling off the track, temps drop pretty quickly. and turning the AC on while idling, coolant temps drop all the way down to 190°.

yesterday in traffic my ECT reached 225 and never really got below 200, I have a cobb FMIC and have considered getting a dual fan setup, or just getting a new radiator

sent them an email, will post up response

ECT yesterday in traffic hit 215, need to make a VTA on the heater core of the climate control system.

I called AWR a few weeks ago.

They didn't seem to know too much about the radiator, as they haven't sold too many.

They also fail at returning calls.

My car does not get over 190 sitting on a hot day in traffic with a/c on, get rid of that pos oem fan and put in a real fan wire it on a switch and keep your temps where you want them
and not where the ecu would like them to be.
And i have a fmic

if your doing some road racing you prob wanna delete the stock oil cooler and get an aftermarket one for more flow over the radiator. ducting will help as well.

if your just sitting in traffic you need to get a fan controller like myself and some members here to turn your fans on when they reach 200 and off at 180

I have a friend that is planing to work on making a 170° thermostat that fits in the oem housing. Will update you guys if this happens.

Btw what size fan is the oem?

Untill there is another reasonable option, go for this.

Lowered the temp on my bike from 210 at cruising to 180 (same result with 3 different bikes) I was shocked at how much of a difference it makes.

http://images.motorcycle-superstore....Coolant_--.jpg

Where do you get that at?

I get it at cycle gear for the 10% discount, but you can find it online all over.

Amazon.com: Engine Ice High Performance Coolant - 64oz. TYDS008: Automotive

I have actually been subscribed to this thread for forever.

I have had trouble with both track temperatures and road temperatures.

Last year while stuck in traffic for a couple hours on a 110+ degree day my coolant temperatures got up to 238*, the a/c shut off and I got heat stroke. I don't think it had anything to do with the FMIC though since I was not moving. Either a bigger fan or better radiator would fix this.

On the road course @~330whp I have seen coolant temperatures get up to 225* on a 95* day. They did not get any higher than that though because I had to shut it down due to clutch overheating issues. Oil temperatures were also getting excessive, topping out at 260*

Once you start upping the power and running a road course all the little gremlins start coming out. Right now I have 3 temperature related barriers that prevent me from running a hot tune on the track.

1:Oil temperatures
2:Water temperatures
3:Brake temperatures

I have been researching adding a thermostatic oil cooler to address #1

Plan of attack for #2 is water wetter in combination with the oil cooler. If a decent radiator solution arises I would be interested, though my budget is tapped for the time being.

#3 has me very indecisive. One crew guy for a viper cup car was trying to talk me into a water misting system for cooling the brakes. I think I am just going to duct from holes cut in the bumper though. Need to make fiberglass plugs to fit in the bumper, and modify the dust covers to add a pipe piece to secure the hose to. Step #1 to this is ditching my CAI so I am on the list for the JBR intake.

Another guy with alot of experience tracking the MS3 is @rizzant who has also had issues with his power steering fluid boiling and cooking power steering pumps. I told him to stop steering so much, but alas it didn't fix his issue so that might be another looming issue for the track rats.

This has all been a big pita though. I have not been on track since last November because I keep dicking with the car.(and because getting a full weekend away with a newborn around is asking too much) Once the wife goes back to work I'll have a little more discretionary income so I can finish prepping the car and get back out there.


Zigatapatalka

not the answer i was hoping for:

This could be an answer for you guys, the regular 3 and ms3 share so many parts including radiators.

Mazda3 Performance Parts : Mazda3 KOYO Radiator A2696 : 2004-2009 : 2.0L, 2.3L

worth a shot especially for the price.

and I literally have a ported hotside atp 3071 sitting in front of me...maybe track events are just gonna be an option in the fall.

can't imagine how the car is in the texas heat. those are some serious temps.

what tracks do you run and what pads do you use? @Tomas is in FL where it gets damn hot too, and that dude is running an FP3076. I'm running xp-10s, with rbf600 and haven't cooked the brakes yet. But the only track I've been on is NHMS and its only 1.7mi and I'm a noob.

AFAIK Tomas runs a 20psi map on the track, which is what I have been doing as well.

I use carbotech xp10s with RBF600. I have never gotten pad fade with these, but have boiled the fluid a few times.

There are 5 stages of brake temperatures that I went through

1: cool brakes: über noob that doesn't know how much braking is available, and can't get enough drive out of corners to get the straight speeds up high.

2: overheating brakes: semi noob who now can get the speeds up, but still over brakes for corners and understands threshold braking but tends to start braking too early and ease into it.

3: marginal brakes: noob who stops braking too early and has set brake points for every turn on course still fuzzy on brake release technique (which is actually more critical than the start of braking) and corner speeds are hurt as an effect. Inconsistant with lap times and marks giving the brakes unintentional rest.

4: overheating brakes: improved noob who can reliably threshhold brake from start to finish of braking, as well as manage turnin with brake release so that front end grip is increased and thus not having to slow as much. Increased speeds out of corners further beat on brakes, as well as ability to consistently hit marks and maintain aggressive lap times lap after lap

5: marginal brakes: advanced noob. Speeds don't really increase, but ability to hit marks without a ton of concentration allows the advanced noob to manage brake temperatures by feel while turning laps, consciously slowing allowing the brakes to cool before attempting a "hot" lap. Previous experience in steps 2 and 4 also gives the advanced noob the feel for when the brakes are about to boil, rather than finding out when the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor.


Zigatapatalka

always ran this in my dirtbikes with great results

I ran water wetter in my 98 Cobra and saw temps drop by 10-20 degrees in the summer. Some of my buddy's have ran it with good results as well.

You can get it at any parts stores for 9.99. Figured it would be worth a shot

Sent from my 3VO bitches.

I run the water wetter and still get high temps.

On hot days here in SoCal, I can see around 190 cruising on freeway with no A/C. In winter, it's around 180-187 on freeway. Stop and go gives me temps up to 228'ish which usually drops to 215ish when the car is moving.

I keep reading that a 50/50 mix of water/anti-freeze is the best mixture to run, is this the general consensus?

I've been looking at that Koyo rad also, especially since you can find it for less than $90 online... I want to see something that says the Koyo rad is better than the OEM one though...

Edit: I think I'm going to give this stuff a try: http://www.evanscooling.com/

Also, looks like Koyo offers an aluminum racing radiator for the first gen MS3 now: http://www.koyoradracing.com/product...earch+Products

More water is better. If I was in socal, I'd run a 20/80 mix of coolant/distilled h2o all year..

Exactly. Pure DI water plus some water wetter is the way to go unless your car will see freezing temperatures.


Zigatapatalka

I guess I am lucky, there is a rad shop in town that I use to recore radiators, he put a 4 row in my mustang and offered a 6 row. I think he can recore to the thickness of the tanks, anyone know if the tanks are bigger than the core?

For those interested in an oil cooler, there a part list in the link for the na 3: my husband's mazda 3 build - Nissan Versa Forums

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...-45-20_240.jpg


http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...-33-27_159.jpg


http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...-55-51_209.jpg

Subbing to see what comes from this, Never really pay much attention to the temps but here in UT it gets up to 95-105+ during the summer and below freezing in the winter. So i normally stick with the 50/50-60/40 mix

I had the same issue that is why I started the thread. The oil tempeture wasn't a problem until I built my engine. I change to mobil 1 5w40 (for hardworking TBD trucks) that fix that problem. For the brakes I got a big brake kit (BREMBO) and rotora rotors and still lines for the rear brakes. The water temp is not a problem for me since I am in Hawaii now,but I just stop the car for a good 20m every time I experience hi temp on the track. Its not a problem while you are going down the strip or driving around the road course. It becomes a problem once you stop.

I have been contacting people about this issue and my solution is the same one I had for everything else (get a custom made part). I will get a radiator fabricated when I move back to the main land.