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Old 06-29-2012, 04:42 AM   #41
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stock oil cooler sucks since it cools itself with coolant. that being said i had similiar "hot" issues until i switched to a external oil cooler. your oil and coolant temps will thank you
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:43 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Daddy Chinkus View Post
stock oil cooler sucks since it cools itself with coolant. that being said i had similiar "hot" issues until i switched to a external oil cooler. your oil and coolant temps will thank you
Was this in the car the caught fire, or the one you fucked with a pole?
Wait...
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:08 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
Exactly. Pure DI water plus some water wetter is the way to go unless your car will see freezing temperatures.


Zigatapatalka
although its true water is MUCH better at removing heat then anti freeze, the point of anti freeze isent just to stay un-frozen in the winter. the glycol helps to lubricate the entire system so that deposits dont form and shit starts to seize up.

i wouldent run less then an 80/20mix of water/AF and only if you live somewhere where temps never break freezing
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:48 PM   #44
 
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Isn't mazda's brand coolant a 70/30 w/af mix?
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:51 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by pinkcheese View Post
This could be an answer for you guys, the regular 3 and ms3 share so many parts including radiators.

Mazda3 Performance Parts : Mazda3 KOYO Radiator A2696 : 2004-2009 : 2.0L, 2.3L

worth a shot especially for the price.
That Koyo is pretty cheap. But it does not say anything about a higher holding capacity. It just says better quality than OEM.

Originally Posted by 802MS3 View Post
and I literally have a ported hotside atp 3071 sitting in front of me...maybe track events are just gonna be an option in the fall.

can't imagine how the car is in the texas heat. those are some serious temps.

what tracks do you run and what pads do you use? @Tomas is in FL where it gets damn hot too, and that dude is running an FP3076. I'm running xp-10s, with rbf600 and haven't cooked the brakes yet. But the only track I've been on is NHMS and its only 1.7mi and I'm a noob.
Kinda late to arrive here. Sorry.

I haven't had any problems with overheating but that's because I had so many overheating and blown head gasket problems with my previous MR2 that I do everything I can to prevent it on the MS3.

I am running a ETS TMIC and a D04 70/30 MW mix for track work. I took the Mazda emblem off in the front and inserted some wire mesh. Might not make a huge difference but I tell myself it all adds up in keeping temps low. For oil cooling I just run a heat sink that slides over a huge K&N filter. The thing is huge and touches the tub but big oil filters also help dissipate the heat. For boost it's 22 psi boost to red line and I mostly shift at 6.2 to 6.5K with the occasional third gear pull out of a corner going to 7.2K.

One thing I haven't seen anyone mention here is timing. I am not a fan of high timing so I keep it at red line at 12* even with meth and race gas AND about 2 1/2 gs of Ethanol. I know I can probably run way more than that but as long as the clutch isnt holding up to the task I won't push it higher.

During 30 min session coolant temps stay at 192 to 196*. Once into the cool down laps they increase to about 212 to 220. In the pits they can climb to 232 after shut off unless I ran about 5-10 mins of cruising at low load. What I do then is just turn the car on for about 30 seconds to let the coolant flow a little.

For glycol / water mix you can run up to 80% water before scaling occurs I read. I run 70% distilled water.

One more thing I just read on Speedkillah's build is that his oil temps decreased 10-15 deg by switching to Rotella T6 oil. Not sure how that temp drop is possible just by switching oil. I am also running T6 though so may be there is something to it. These are older pics but you get the idea.



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Old 07-02-2012, 10:39 PM   #46
 
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In the cool down laps turn your AC on but with the temp at 90° so it's blowing hot air out and the fan is on cooling the radiator. Also if you turn the car off, turn it to the on position (without the engine running) have the heater on to help get some more heat out.

I know you might know this @Tomas but if anyone else doesn't, now they do.
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:43 PM   #47
 
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@Daddy Chinkus, what kind of external oil cooler were you running?
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #48
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cxracing core, im selling my old one if interested. got one on the fs thread
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:28 AM   #49
 
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On Sunday I took my car out and I was hitting 235 and it would not go down at all. I let it sit for about 10 min with the AC on no hotter no colder then I took it out and tried just driving regular. No change then took it up to 100 MPH still no change. What do you guys think the problem is. I have a synapse fmic its.about.3 to 3.5 thick
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:55 AM   #50
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might want to check your radiator fan. turning the AC on will make it worse, heater core will help but also idle wont help cool temps either.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:59 AM   #51
 
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We tried going fast to force air in but nothing happened.I will check my fan though thanks.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:07 AM   #52
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Try going moar fast.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:12 AM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by Carl View Post
On Sunday I took my car out and I was hitting 235 and it would not go down at all. I let it sit for about 10 min with the AC on no hotter no colder then I took it out and tried just driving regular. No change then took it up to 100 MPH still no change. What do you guys think the problem is. I have a synapse fmic its.about.3 to 3.5 thick
Did you have the heater on with the AC on? When you check your fan turn the AC on full blast so the fan turns on.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:09 AM   #54
 
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HOW-TO: Auxiliary Fan controller
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:16 AM   #55
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
That Koyo is pretty cheap. But it does not say anything about a higher holding capacity. It just says better quality than OEM.
Koyorad Racing - Products : High Performance Racing Radiators
A2696 is the plastic/aluminum aftermarket replacement with similar performance to the stock OEM radiator with a 16mm thick core. The Koyorad KH061816 is an all-aluminum performance radiator with a thicker 25mm core.



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Old 07-03-2012, 10:54 AM   #56
 
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Originally Posted by hnda etr View Post
Koyorad Racing - Products : High Performance Racing Radiators
A2696 is the plastic/aluminum aftermarket replacement with similar performance to the stock OEM radiator with a 16mm thick core. The Koyorad KH061816 is an all-aluminum performance radiator with a thicker 25mm core.



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Had a koyo radiator on my 240... Shit worked well, maybe too well. Lol.

I had virtually no heat in the winter time. Lol

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Old 07-03-2012, 03:07 PM   #57
 
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Any idea of fitment issues between the years? They list this as an 07-09 part, but I would lover to have this on my 11.
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:31 PM   #58
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aluminium is the way to go. itll heat soak a lil bit at idle since its so conductive however as soon as fresh air starts hitting it itll cool down fast. with pure distilled and water wetter my temps range from 180-140. if i start coasting for awhile ive seen my temps go below 130 on a cold night.

p.s dont burn yourself. ALL of the radiator will get hot
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http://koyoradracing.com/news.asp?id=93

Someone musthave seen this thread LOL
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:15 PM   #60
 
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Im surprised corksport hasnt released something aswell.

I know they sell/sold one for the protege at one time.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:36 PM   #61

 
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$380 and claims 100% fitment? Not bad, not bad at all.

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Old 07-03-2012, 06:36 PM   #62

 
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$380 and claims 100% fitment? Not bad, not bad at all.

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Old 07-03-2012, 07:18 PM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
I've contacted all their distributors - all sell it at the same $380 price...

I contacted koyo racing about fitment, and they said the only thing you may need to do is trim the hoses 1/4" because larger core means the piping sticks out a bit further.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:34 PM   #64
 
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glad i came across this thread ... was also experiencing higher temps while on a road course, probably not as high as the fmic guys .. but pretty much up until right now, i thought it was just my car's cooling system not being 100%

temps will start out ok the first 1 or 2 laps .. but then after it hovers around 214ish give or take a few degrees

so i guess a new rad is in my near future ...
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:55 PM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by hnda etr View Post
I've contacted all their distributors - all sell it at the same $380 price...

I contacted koyo racing about fitment, and they said the only thing you may need to do is trim the hoses 1/4" because larger core means the piping sticks out a bit further.
That 1/4" may affect some ppls fmic pipe routing... Something to think about.

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I would wear a pink unicorn shirt, and still call someone a faggot. Since when did MSFers begin to give fucks?...
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:25 PM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by Boosten Ya(josh) View Post
Did you have the heater on with the AC on? When you check your fan turn the AC on full blast so the fan turns on.
today i was watching my temp coming home from work and it was at 241, i have my bottom plate on to scoop air and my fan is all good. i was talking to a guy who said something about it being the timing. i dont really know what to do. i was just going to throw a stock map on for a bit and see if the tune is causing it. idk why it would thats all i could think of doing next along with buying this water wetter shit
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:28 PM   #67
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When was your last flush and fill?
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:38 PM   #68
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
When was your last flush and fill?
i honestly couldnt tell ya. i'll try it
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:06 PM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by Carl View Post
today i was watching my temp coming home from work and it was at 241, i have my bottom plate on to scoop air and my fan is all good. i was talking to a guy who said something about it being the timing. i dont really know what to do. i was just going to throw a stock map on for a bit and see if the tune is causing it. idk why it would thats all i could think of doing next along with buying this water wetter shit
241*!? your in the ....
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:31 PM   #70
 
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Originally Posted by easy View Post
The truth hurts but I have always liked that song
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:38 AM   #71
 
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Originally Posted by Carl View Post
The truth hurts but I have always liked that song
You haz caught teh ghey...
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:38 AM   #72
 
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Originally Posted by hnda etr View Post
You haz caught teh ghey...
Ya right thats an AMERICAN CLASSIC haha
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:06 AM   #73
 
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Is your coolant brown?
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:13 AM   #74
 
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Originally Posted by Boosten Ya(josh) View Post
Is your coolant brown?
its green and i have to watch my hot cold gauge climb 2 notches away from hot bc i dont have my other car. i am getting so fucking mad at this car its one thing after another. everyone keeps saying its my thermometer but i cant get a cheap one anywhere. the cheapest one around butt fuck decatur is 180. ahhhhhhhhhhhh i am drunk and pissed. i want to ghost ride this bitch in a river and just go buy my raptor right now!!!!!!
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:22 AM   #75
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Change thermostat and coolant. Problem solved.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:27 AM   #76
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Change thermostat and coolant. Problem solved.
Man i hope you are right. I didn't have any problems until dp install and got a new base tune.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:42 PM   #77
 
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So I just read this whole thread. Right after I did my coolant bypass I sliced a line and lost my coolant. Fixed it and afterwards I noticed my temps reaching 210 on idle and between 180-190 cruising. It used to sit at 187 constant. But its starting to be more stable now. I think I had some air in the line but it seems to be evening out. But if I'm hitting 190 cruising on a hot day (85-90*) I'm perfectly fine? I was freaking out seeing 210 on a stand still. Thought when my gf's dad cleaned out my coolant he shorted the fan or something.
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:20 AM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by exentix View Post
So I just read this whole thread. Right after I did my coolant bypass I sliced a line and lost my coolant. Fixed it and afterwards I noticed my temps reaching 210 on idle and between 180-190 cruising. It used to sit at 187 constant. But its starting to be more stable now. I think I had some air in the line but it seems to be evening out. But if I'm hitting 190 cruising on a hot day (85-90*) I'm perfectly fine? I was freaking out seeing 210 on a stand still. Thought when my gf's dad cleaned out my coolant he shorted the fan or something.
lol i'm at 241 at stand still and driving, i would guess its the air in it.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:23 PM   #79
 
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Originally Posted by Angr-E1 View Post
I see there is a ms3 replacement KOYO radiator but is there an ms6 replacement? I've searched but have only found a replacement for the v6 Mazda 6.
Ron Davis aluminum radiators for racing, offroad, performance street car, and other custom applications

They make racing rads for the speed 6 I think you need to call them to order though...
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:46 AM   #80
 
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Originally Posted by Angr-E1 View Post
Yeah I saw that one but that fucker is damn near $600. The Koyo one for the ms3 is half that. I might just have to say fuck it and buy it.
2X the price for a reason.

Built for racing, not as an oem replacement that may be slightly thicker.

The ron davis rads are thick, very well built, and come with nice big fans and shroud.

The koyo comes with no fans or shroud.
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