MS3 Fuel Cut - How to fix???.
 

Ok , I got my Cobb Dp installed and it ripps. No problems at all until today, at WOT in 3rd and 4th (haven't tried it in 5th or 6th) I'm getting fuel cut. I guess it is temperature related because it was only about 38 deg. f when i got my fuel cut. before today it was 50 deg. plus and no fuel cut.
here's my mods: Cobb turboback exhaust, MS-CAI, tip, forge bPV that's it. I thought i was running out of fuel so I put my CP-E fuel pump on- same thing so fuel pressure is not the issue.
Running stock boost - no tuning.
Any suggestions ? I have a cobb AP (not installed presently) but really don't want to go above stock boost. DOes the Cobb have something to eliminate fuel cut, even if I stay with a stock map ? thanks for any help.

You are most likely getting a load cut, the accesport will up the limit on the ecu so i would install that for now

Remove the oil cap and pee in it. :D:

That was helpful... shouldn't you be working on your "paper"?

yea install the ap. just do a stage1 map witch is like 18 psi peak so its really not too much higher then stock. last case scenario you DL ATR and adjust the load on the cobb map so it boosts like stock

Thanks, but how can I tell if's it's load cut or fuel cut ?

Datalog with dh or ap... monitor fuel pressure, load, and boost.

load cut is fuel cut. Load cut is what its measuring, fuel is what its cutting.

If you have a upgraded pump then its your ECU cutting off the throttle because the load is to high.

Be careful when you install the AP though. I know in cold weather you will get more boost. In 40 degrees stage 2 on my car will boost up to 24 psi. Which is retarded.

Like 18 suggested..try stage 1...or learn how to use ATR (its not hard) and manually pull down the load tables on a stage 2.

If you really want to run the stock map in the winter, I would raise the load/fuel cut values on the stock style map with ATR. Iam assuming that your not hitting crazy high loads on the stock map- if you are then lower the load targets as was mentioned.

It may not be necessarily cutting fuel it may just be throttle most likely, why would you choose not to install the ap and fix your problem?

There are lower "safeguards"/cut values on the stock style map. I am running it this winter. Since I know somewill will question the safeguards comment, I am talking about the throttle closing at lower boost levels as well as lower boost and fuel cut values.

When I floor it it 3rd gear and up and hold it my car will violently cut boost then a second alter it will come back. I tought Ive been having fuel cuts but my fuel pressure doesnt drop below 1600 at full boost. So could it be that my car is over boosting(peak boost for 3rd gear was 18) . I have fuel pump internals, downpipe and an exhaust along with a a bpv, short ram inkate and turo inlet. Do I need to get a tune because the cars stock tune isnt going to support the mods I have. Thanks for the help

You definitely need a tune!!!!!

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Yes, you need a tune. A few parts ago.

Nice revival brownie.

http://data.whicdn.com/images/32457725/large.gif

Would a aceessport tune fix the problem or a pro tune? And what is the problem that I'm having?

You need an AP or VersaTuner to tune the car period, so get one or the other. An OTS map will help, but a professional e-tune would be best.

Without logs, I can't say for sure, but I imagine you're overboosting. You have additional airflow that the car has no idea is there.

OK thanks I'm gonna go ahead a purchase the acessport

Good call. I believe some of the e-tuners sell AP's new with OTS maps included. That would be a good idea if you're going to put off a full e-tune. Check out Freektune, Hypnotic, or Stratified.

Yea an ap is an necessity with modding

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I'd recommend @justin@freektune.com he knows his stuff with these cars

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Let me help you.

@Justin@Freektune; youngins need you again, sir.

Freek ftw. Justin is good shit.

If you need help, I offer the Accessport which includes my ots plus tune. This is a specific base map for your vehicle and a revision to ensure the vehicle is running properly and safe.

If you wanted to do a full tune, that is also an option at a discounted price with purchase :)
Freektune - Mazdaspeed 3/6 COBB Accessport V3

This is your best bet

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Hey guys, i just registerd here after plenty of solutions you guys provided through your posts with equal problems ive encountered on my own ms3-07
This is an old post i know but i suffer the same dilemma with boost cuts /fuel cuts.
IF this is already solved im sorry for the inconvenience.
But for Justin Who i know is a jedi in this.
I to have a ms3 with
Full turbo back 3", 100 cell cat, autotech hpfp, hks filter and a stage 1 tune from a local rather well - known here in Sweden. But its only a pre-made from his supplier wich i believe is Celtic tuning.
It worked totaly fine until i got my downpipe. Then it starting overboosting to 1,5-1,6 bar wich translates to.. Hmm 23-25 psi circa.
The solution ive solved by problem with sofar is via hardware. Ive bought a mambatek actuator wich open the wg at 0.8 bars, at wich i dont get the cuts, no matter how many People for extra load i have in the car during accel, or just driving aloe.
It still surges up to 1.0 bar for a Flash when under full accel but quickly goes to the set spring bar from the actuator.
I also got a spring for 1.2 wich is the correct (?) boost level for a standard stage 1 tuned ms3, but during load in 3rd and up it cuts.
Will just a AP from freek solve everything like magic? Does the ots tune just like black magic make the var usable again?

IF my english grammar is way of, ill just blame the swed in me ��

Post a log. Without looking at a log my only conclusion is that either your tune is shit (and if it's an EcuTEK tune then it is) or the WG arm doesn't move freely.

The factory WG actuator also has a 0.8BAR/12PSI spring in it, btw. So changing the WG actuator with a Mamba one is not a real solution. Since this started happening after you added the downpipe also check the hoses going to the EBCS and make sure they are properly hooked on both ends in the right ports.

Thanks for the reply, i dont know how to post a log of the car..do you mean like a graph or the detailed parts i have?
Ok, because my stock wg actuator was almost solid stuck, a 0.8 bar spring is fairly easy to move with your hand but this was almost solid stuck, so i through that was the fault in the system, im thinking about a Cobb AP or freektuning, altho if im not a complete tard they look and works almost the same?
However it had a hefty price tag so i really want to be sure a better tune is the solution.
The ebc is Grimmspeed ebc and the hoses and tubes are fastened.
It just seems like the ebc cant react fast enough, since i just have one cat it spools up really fast.
Ive also tried the simple thing to bypass my fuel pump resistor box, for a elimination process if it didnt got enough fuel during boost but to no good..

The most effective way to log is with a Cobb AP or Versatune, but you can also download the Torque app on your phone along with a OBDII Bluetooth dongle and log with that.

Are you tuned for the Grimmspeed ebc? If you are running it in interrupt mode (3 port) without being tuned for it, that will definitely cause you to overboost. If it is running in bleed mode (2 port) you should be fine. Make triple sure its hooked up right.

Also when upgrading your downpipe, you increased the flow of the exhaust system by a considerable amount. Because of that, its possible that the "tune" you have is not accounting for this increased flow.

I highly recommend that you get an AP and a quality tune by one of the highly regarded tuners on this forum. It's best to get tunes by people that know this platform extremely well. These cars are considerably different than other platforms in some ways. Don't cheap out and let Joe Shmoe at some shitty ass mom&pop "performance" shop fuck around with your car. Get it done right by the right people or have fun blowing up.

So im in freektunes page and was about to order a ap, when i Came across some addons to the ap, like the option of "full tune" what does that include?

And as some answer to your ebc q, nope i have it in 2 port bleed mode, and yes my bet is that my current tuner is just an "all cars tune" and not really like freektune, statisfied or versa that ar focused on the speed.
So my Guess is that my current tune isnt corrected after my downpipe Flow.
Problably why i get such spikes and cuts.

So again, Whats the ap option with the most worth when im going to order it?

Thanks again for the support and help guys :P:silly:

I think there are even OTS tunes that address some specific mods, intake and exhaust being the most common.
I'd rather get a full tune which is going to be tailored on your own setup, so if something needs to be dialled up or down in some specific areas you will also get that.

Thanks man, appriciate it, gonna write all mods down and order a ap with full tune, it must be worth if all this shiet disappears. Really again, appriciate the help

1. Directly address the issue by posting a datalog and getting a custom tune for your mods.

2. Check the gap on your spark plugs. Make sure they are in the .026" to .028" range.


It is a known issue with the higher boost tunes that adding a 3" downpipe will increase boost by about 2 psi. It will overboost until accounted for with adjustment in the tune. You may see load cut by cutting fuel. You may also get spark plug boost blow out, in which the higher boost is actually blowing out the spark. In that scenario, under max load at WOT around 4,000 rpm, the spark gets snuffed. The engine temporarily stumbles, then recovers as the boost falls and the spark comes back.

If you are gapping the plugs at .032" or the gap has opened up, especially if over .035" this will happen, even if the tune is right and boost is higher than 16 psi.

My modest canned Hypertech reflash sees 18-19 psi at max load with my catless dp/rp and was boost spark blow out prone until I gapped the plugs at .026". Tighter gap produces hotter spark.

Thanks mate, luckily i actually recieved a gift from a friends before this problem of mine occured, so i actually got the gear to test the plugs, i bought some iridium plugs just before summer 2017 ended so they are quite new. But if the gap are bigger than you say they should be, how do i correct it? any safe way besides a hammer to knock it with because that will prolly crack the ignition brigde ( or whatever its called ) :P

Gapping tool. The part extending out on the left is used to grip the ground strap electrode and gently bend it to increase or decrease gap. Do not scrape the fine wire iridium center tip. Touch it with the wire gauges but do not apply force or scrape it.

Thanks mate, i have some similar tools, im going to gap my plugs tomorrow and report baack :)
Appriciate it!

i got these tools, so they will prolly suffice i think!

Don't use the coin type. It scrapes along the surface of the iridium tip and could damage it. Feeler gauges are fine. You still need something to leverage the strap electrode to change gap. You can carefully tap if it needs to be closed, but if you over do it, you need something to gently pull the strap back. Don't push or pry against the center electrode.

The black part in the photo I posted allows you to push or pull the ground strap without touching the center electrode.

As stated above, don't use the coin type gaping tools.
This is how I do mine (please excuse the eastern european accent):


0.65mm is .026", 0.7mm is .028".

Thanks guys, really helpfull, ill try to do this the forthcoming week and se if it does any magic, might not delete my cuts but thats anyway one bit thats corrected :) <3

i just have a 0.6mm and 0.7, nothing in between, should i go for the .6 or .7mm feeler? :squareeyed:

Go with 0.7mm. I'm gaping mine at 0.65 because 30+PSI of boost.

Damn lol 30 psi 😍😂 thats gotta rip! Thanks again ill keep in touch!