Motor Is out...
 

So kurt (subparpunk03) and I got crackin on the motor build today. I picked up the beater last night. 97 buick century custom ftw.

Anyways. We got started at about 10:30 or so this morning, and finished up at around 5. The motor is just about ready to come out. The 3 mounts, Tranny linkages and the axles are the only things holding it in.

I got some pics, but am super tired. Ill just hold on to them for now, but i expect to have the motor/trans out, and broken down tomorrow, It would have probably been out now, but i was attempting to not pull it, and just got to the point where i realized it would have been easier to pull it from the start.

im excited for pics..
thanks man.
good luck

i told you to just pull it out. good luck, i've been and have done what your doing. If you need help or advice let me know i'll drive up.

I took some pictures for everyone to oogle at. Shon is the master of DIY...

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild1.jpg

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild3.jpg

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild2.jpg

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild4.jpg

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild5.jpg

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild7.jpg
^^^ This thing is heavy!

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild8.jpg
^^^ Where did I put that hammer?

http://kbecker182.googlepages.com/shonbuild9.jpg

That is all for now. I am tired and I'm sure Shon is way more beat than I am.

I am, indeed, exhausted.

The engine is on a stand in my garage.

I will need to come up with a way to get the crank pulley bolt off. the pulley "bolt/lock" casting on the block didnt hold up to loosen the crank pulley bolt. So I am stuck until i get that off. Any ideas?

Tranny still attached? If so put a prybar in the flywheel. It will stop the crank from turning and you can break free the bolt on the pulley. Just pull off the starter and stick the pry bar in.

no, the engine is on a stand. The flywheel is off the motor.

use a chain wrench around the crank pulley, where it contacts where the chain comes back around cut a section of drive belt and put it on there, then you wrech down on the chain wrench and break the bolt loose simple as that.

the pry bar int he flywheel is scary, i have seen ring gears get broken like that, if you do that you need either the factory flywheel locker or a correct tool that snap on or matco sells,

chain wrench is the easist though.

my vote is to put a bolt in the crank (take off the flywheel and clutch), have a friend hold that bolt on the crank as u turn on the crank pulley bolt

Post a photo of the pully side of the engine, so I can have an idea of what we're dealing with.

congrats best of luck

So everything was good with the motor, you are just upgrading to forged internals? I am anxious to see those pictures along with some side by sides of the rotating assemblies.

the bolt in the crank on the trans side didnt work, it came loose before i could get the pulley bolt off.

got it out. 2 flywheel bolts in the crank and a bar holding them allowed me to get the crank pulley bolt off.

bro, you've come so far since the days of installing a k04-15 on your A4.

great job man!

BTW, is it Sean or Shon? I know your last name but I've always misspelled your first name if it is indeed Shon lol.

It is Sean. Long story short, i picked up Shon in highschool when a few girls i hung out with made brownies for my birthday, and for whatever reason wrote happy shon.

Wait till i get it back in and running to say ive come a long way :-P

good lord, i bet id be embarrased if i looked back to my first few posts on audizine. lucky for me, i spent alot of my "noob" time on a different audiforum where i blended in :) (AF)

Ha, just took a stroll through memory lane....

from when i chipped the audi:

"holy effin ess batman...

i just got my car chipped with GIAC this morning (GMPperformance.com, great guys) and all i can say is wow... the ride home was nuts... not like anything ive ever felt before... if your not chipped, your nuts, do it..."

I also was reading through some posts where i was concerned about replacing the snub mount on the audi... LOL.

good times pat. good times.

lol...no worries...I made some pretty silly posts in the beginning. I think I actually said I wanted to do nothing beyond chipping the car.

Good luck dude...slow and steady...no rush

EDIT: please allow me to recommend latex gloves......

i have a box of black non latex gloves.

the problem is, i always get annoyed and rip them off 10 minutes in...

Soon after im done, im planning to come up to MD to see you guys, and have cpe do the flashes (maf, map, FCF, and cut flash) and have you guys tune the fucker for 24psi.

Sean, when you come up to p3/cp-e, let me know, I'm meeting you there. That's only 2 hours from me.

you got it bro, definately past due.

Sure thing dude...love to tune your forged monster for 24psi....Z00m Z00m.
Just FYI: the grease absorbs into your skin..after some time you'll start feeling shitty with all that crap on your hands. Try to find the XL latex gloves..should be more comfy for your big mits.

Speaking from several engine swaps/build experience, put some towels on your fenders or you'll end up with nasty scratches.

x2 on the gloves, I was the same as you on my first swap, but I learned quickly damaged skin is not fun.

the head is off, and the stock rods and pistons are out...

Next step is to check the ring gaps, and mark the rings for each cyl. Then im gonna load up the rings and slip the pistons in. Wonder if autozone rents a rod guide

You mean ring compressor? What's a rod guide?

As soon as you are done could you come do my car??Thanks! Ill be waiting for that phone call..

Me? no thank you. have you tried calling p3 yet?

a rod guide screws into the rod where the cap screws in, and you use it to guide the rod onto the crankshaft.

Ah, didn't use one in my builds, just lined it up and gently tapped the top of the pistons once the rings were in.
Make sure you don't nick or scratch the crank journals.

rod guide?
you are worried about the studs at the bottom of the rods scratching the cylinder walls?
heres a little trick i use. just put some heater hose over the studs with some extra room at the ends(you know like reservoir tip style)
that way if they touch the walls, no harm done.

you will need to get your hands on a cylinder hone to allow the new rings to break-in and seat properly

Im getting it machine honed. The block is bare and in the trunk to be dropped off tomorrow. Ball honing is apparently frowned upon.

I cant wait to get it back. The goal is to have it dropped off for timing at the end of next week.

PS, the pauter rods use rod cap bolts, not studs.

I dont know if i mentioned this, but everything ive looked at as i am taking it apart has looked phenomenal. water injection ftmfw.

Picked up the block today!

Luckily my crank bearings came in today. So i put the oil squirters, BSD, oil pump, and crank back in.

Im borrowing a ring file from a friend, so i should be able to get the rings gapped, and the pistons in tomorrow. Then it gets piled in my work van to go off for timing.

Luckily, taking the crank out to get the block machined wasnt as big of a PITA as i thought, although, it is tedious work.

The new bearing clearances have to be checked, and the cradle torquing procedure is a process. torque 3 times, loosen them, torque twice more, and then give it a 90* turn. then you have to take it out to check the plastigage, and put it back on the same way if all is well. Luckily my clearances were DEAD on. Im just happy my new torque wrench is getting a workout ;)

Man, Ring gaps are tedious too. But its done. They are set.

The rods and pistons are in. The clearances on those were dead on too.

One thing i noticed is there is alot of crank walk. When i take it to the dealership on monday, Im gonna ask them about that, as i heard there was a shim kit to limit that.

That is awesome. I wish you lived in cali to help me when i do this haha.

I forget what the cutoff was, but the mazda guy (who joined the marines I heard, which is why we don't see him anymore), was saying it was a late 08/08.5 revision. Basically a few washers on the crank and cams? Damn i wish he could have gotten me the part #'s before he left. Might try talking to bagman1, he handles alot of parts for all the forums.

So today, I put the head on, and reassembled all the timing stuff. Put the cams in. Oil pan is on.

Next step is to drop it off at the dealership for them to set the timing. Then it should be close to going back in the car...

congrats dude

wow id like to build my own, but seems a bit over my head as ive never done it before. Ive got a 3071 going in as well.
I Read about the crank walk here:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...html#post33049

Also dont you have to have the crank rebalanced?