I doubt you'll have any problems with the NVH, it's really not that bad. Besides, the improvements brought to the party are substantial enough to be worth it.

got the SURE RRM. blue. you can see the difference between the stock and it and i put her on, it wasnt too bad. i definitly recommend a lift or car jack something to lift the engine a tad. and as well something to give you leverage.

I stuck a Pry bar between the back of the mount and the Black bar running across the car this allowed me to move the mount Forward towards the Engine Block. and TADDAA!!!

Vibes are barely noticeable when driving or Idle, but they are DEF noticable when you turn the A/C on. but Honestly nothing you cant live with.

With just a RRM and CAI(so far in the car) HOLY SHIT!!!!!!!!!!!
I FEEL LIKE IM DRIVING A TOTALY NEW CAR!!!!!!!!!!!! LOVE IT!!!

For an MS3, walking the "thin line between performance and comfort" is easy to do, IMO.

Get a CP-E Stage 2 RMM and call it a day. ;)

Never noticed this thread, but I've had experience with a lot of the MS6 mounts. Basically a 60-70 rmm and the TT FMM are all most people will ever need and they will not induce much discomfort at all. A few rattles may appear, but that is about it. Side mounts on an MS6 will make life absolute hell, BUT you will need at least the passenger mount when you get into 500HP range. Dustin just ripped his apart on a 3rd gear pull the other day. You can probably still get away with the 70 AWR mount there and be plenty safe, but I had the 88 mount once and made it around the block to pull it back out. Anything above 70 seems to be intolerable to me to drive on the street. I feel bad for the MS3 guys that need tranny mounts because the noises alone would make me sell the car.

When you mentioned the 70 AWR mount above, are you speaking of the RMM? I'm considering that for my MS6 but there are not many reviews throughout this thread on that particular mount. I also like the fact that if I don't find the 70A to be stiff enough, replacement bushings are pretty cheap.

70 Duro is more than stiff enough on one mount. The RMM doesn't do a whole lot in the overall scheme of things, but replacement is necessary and it eliminates some sloppiness in shifting. The TT FMM is very important along with the passenger mount at some point.

I love my TTFMM...

I need a TTFMM.....

Hey, when the OEM RMM goes does it transfer more or less vibrations from the engine to the chasis?

Have anyone here switched from a trz tmm to a JBR one? If so, was there any difference in vibration or performance?

I'm still debating whether to make the switch or not.

Thank you VERY much. That helps a lot.

I would imagine more as the engine may sit cock-eyed or the softer rubber will crack within the mount causing odd noises. The engine would also move a lot causing the turbo to hit the firewall under moderate to heavy shifting.

You would know.

Ok, time to replace mine then!

Which one would guys you recommend for daily driving with OEM clutch - something more durable but not too much stiffer than the stock RMM?
Or maybe only some new inserts with the stock one?

I have the cp-e 75a duros and it's perfect for DD; also eliminated my wheel hop completely.


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Guthrie, I think you have a 6, so anything in the 70 range is plenty for the rmm. AWR's works great.

currently got cs inserts. have had them for a few years and they're great for a cheap, non obtrusive add-on.

i'm about to order both side mounts and most likely a replacement rmm as well. definitely keen to have something solid as i'm doing the odd track day, but still want to maintain minimal nvh levels.

using jbr mounts as an example; if i went 70's all round along with a tt fmm, could this be a lower nhv alternative providing similar stiffness to 80/88's all round (but without the tt fmm)?


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Are your side mounts trashed?

If you want minimal NVH and your side mounts are still OK, just start with the CP-E Stage 2 rear mount.

i believe they're okay at the moment, but the car is first of the gen1's, 06/06 build.

as i'm putting more power through and with more aggressive driving on track days and autocross etc, the primary aim is to avoid dropping the engine, second is hopefully keep nvh as low as possible.

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Well I track my car regularly (and have since I got it), and all I'm rockin' is a CPE Stage 2 RMM (after having used the CS inserts as well as a conventional "Stage 1" with both available durometer bushings). I think it strikes the balance you're looking for (at least it does for me).

:)

Take it for what it's worth.

After putting all three mounts in, I can tell after driving my car and your car, you get less vibrations with the jbr tmm. Performance wise, its about the same.

I might be in the city next weekend during the day time so you can maybe test drive it if you want.

Thanks! I'm gonna get the JBR TMM next. Lol, i've been debating whether to get it or not for quite a long time.

Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the OEM passenger side motor mount for the MS3? Can't find this information anywhere. Can only find for regular 3 mount.

Got a noob question and sorry if its a repeat question...what exactly does the RMM do and why is it so important? (Sorry, im completely new to the whole modding scene):banghead:

Helps curb wheel hop, thus better traction, throttle response, etc.

Time to read that welcome PM you got when you signed up, too. LOTS of links, son.

Ok thanks. I went through the motor mount thread but i couldnt find what it actuall does and why everyone is reccomending to put that on before anything.

Has anyone used the cobb RMM?

From factory manual: 55.0-77.3 ft-lb

Yeah so my sure rmm is not doing too well. I hope sure can do something about it..

Just installed the JBR 80 durometer rmm on my ms6. I used the instructions for the awr rmm worked perfect.
It has some vibs, nothing to bad, but who cares its a sports car. not a luxury car. I dd my car and love my new rmm!!!

JBR trilogy
 

just installed the JBR trilogy(80 duro) with an ACT 6 puck clutch and street disc. i was ready for the vibrations but was not ready for the rattling sound from the trans and vvt chain. it almost sounds like a diesel at idle and again approaching wot. i am torn because i like the performance but am not sure that i can grow used to the sounds. i will give it a few hundred miles to break in and see if anything is changed. im not expecting it to change much.

I have the same setup and it is almost like the engine sounds like it is right next to me. I am either used to it by now or it has gotten better once everything settled.

If you have timing chain rattles, it's not the mounts. But any research will show you do hear more. Ive got the trilogy, stiffest mounts and with 3000 miles or so, no big deal to me. Give it a month of hard driving. Besides, better than the oem ones failing and the engine falling out.

yeah i was aware it would sound louder i just wasn't sure exactly how loud. i think it is just gear rattle but someone else mentioned that you can hear the chain some as well and i didn't know if that was contributing - probably just gear rattle.

i will give it some time i really dont want to have to take any of them off. the greatly reduced wheel hop is very nice. it was bad with almost 90K on original mounts...

I have a newbish question for all. I'm trying to justify the benefits of running a stiffer PMM and TMM.

I already have a CP-E 60 RMM, what should I expect if I were to install a stiffer PMM and TMM? Is it overkill?

Expect no wheel hop. A lot better throttle response. Less engine movement. More RACECAR noise and vibes. However, depending on brand, ymmv.

I already have CP-E 60, I was just going to finish it off with a matching set of PMM/TMM 60duro.

Thanks!

Alas, I've come across a straight up comparison of the JBR 70a and the 88a dogbone for all you who are on the fence about how much NVH you think you can handle.

Thanks @HawkeyeGeoff; for the honest words.

"To be very, very honest with you...the 88 Chrome Molly has LESS NVH than the 70a RMM. It sounds counter intuitive....but basically what happens with the Billet design is that you tighten it down to the specified torque and a few weeks later the material wears in and it becomes loose again. I believe this will happen with the 80a as well. Anyway, I went through this process several times, including two separate times trying red loctite, and when it comes loose, good lurd. It's like driving a fully bolted race car.

I would highly, highly recommend going with the 88 duro simply because of the design of it seems to not come loose if you loctite it the first time. The vibrations are basically non-existent after about 2 weeks of driving it(IMO less than the 70a even when it was tight, but it could be I just was super frustrated with it). The only time you have vibrations is sitting at a light at idle (which can be totally negated if you turn your idle up to ~800) or when the A/C compressor is on, those can be annoying but it's way worth it to feel so solid when you are shifting.

Anyone that has the 88 will tell you to go 88....and anyone that doesn't probably hasn't driven an 88 duro rmm lol. Not to mention it's cheaper, but that's totally besides the point."

Helped me out so I figured I'd share.

:unitedstates:

He is right. The 80 kept loosening up. Went 88 and it is fukkin awesome!

@jbarone; has changed all RMM's to the dogbone/molly design http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...a-rear-145954/
just ordered a set of 80's through edge :drive: pretty certain my SURE street mount is fucked...

Oh shit! This is genius!!

Checked em out. Feel like I should consider a lower durometer now, but still feel like everyones sold me on the 88a now.

^^This^^ is so well put and exactly why we redesigned the 70 and 80 duro mounts to be in a similar housing like our 88. ALL aluminum mounts, whether they're made by SURE, Corksport or CP-E suffer from the material wearing and coming loose over time. You simply can't get the big forks from a billet mount to clamp tight enough.

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...MS3-RMM-70.JPG

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...MS3-RMM-80.JPG

We have been the leader in motor mounts for the MS3 for a while and now the MS6 too. We continue to do R&D and testing to improve them and we have some new features coming later this summer.

Hey @RhoadBlock;

Think we could get the OP updated with the new design picture of the JBR lower duro mounts?

Show me the pic you're wanting. I noticed none of CP-E's pics are showing up anymore either. I'll try to update that as well soon.

@RhoadBlock;

Here is a link to the new pics and descriptions of our updated mounts. 70 and 80 duro mounts. The billet 70 and 80 mounts are still supported just not being sold anymore.

Mazdaspeed 3 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication

Thanks,
Jamie

@jbarone; Thanks. I didn't realize that about the billet. I'll try to get the new pics up soon.

Has anybody noticed that they get more second gear pop-outs after installing a PMM?

I was running the JBR70A (first version) before, I've noticed more popouts now with my JBR70A PMM.

I'll probably just gonna upgrade to an 88duro in the next few weeks, but was just wondering if this is a common thing?:smashfreakB:

i have not seen anyones reviews on the corksports 70dura rmm? are those anygood? or should i just go with awr 88 rmm ??

I just installed the JBR 88a RMM last weekend, right before driving over 400 miles in 2 days. I gotta say, my first impression after install (short 10 mile drive) was that the NVH was a lot more than before, but shifting was absolutely amazing. It put the power down amazingly, and shifts weren't sloppy at all.

During the first 150 miles (highway) the vibes weren't that bad (because I was cruising at a constant speed). Got some vibration around 950 rmp, and then some around the 3000 rpm mark. My wife didn't mind it even slightly. The next 50 or so miles were around town, lots of stops/starts and shifts, and it was brutal. Lots of vibes, lots of harshness. I got a pretty bad headache, and it wore me down quick. Then the next 200 or so were mostly highway miles, and it was here that I think the mount really started to break in. NVH dropped considerably, though it's still louder in the cabin than before (which I love, because racecar). I still get a little bit at 1k and 3k rpm, but it's not bad. The car feels so much better that it's almost a completely different car between gears 1-3. And that's just after 400 miles. If it breaks in further, I'm going to forget that the thing is even on my car!

I almost went with the 80a from JBR because this is my daily driver, but I'm glad I didn't. I've learned a bit of patience while the mount breaks in, but patience is a virtue.

EDIT: This thing is really breaking in fast now. After about 50 more miles around town, I can barely tell it's on my car except around 900rpm, and even then it's just a little vibe. Wait. Scratch that. I can also hear it when I go WOT, which is frick awesome. LOVE LOVE LOVE this thing.

when it comes to good quailty and over good part whats better the jbr 80 duro or the awr 88 duro .. i heard there about the same in stiffness. but the awr is like $80 so does that mean its made cheaper?

Nope. Go JBR, you will love it.

Neither is made cheaper than the other. The AWR is and OEM shell with the bushing replaced. Ours is completely built in house by us.

The duro may be the same between the two but, the big difference is the size of the bushing. The AWR is much larger and does not perform anywhere close to as well as ours does. For clarification...I'm not saying anything is wrong or bad about AWR. Strictly commenting on performance comparisons.

well iam sold with jbr then. cuz thats what iam looking for something that will perform and last. thank you.so ur 80a is pretty much the same as there 88a

If you look just above your first post I did a quick review if the JBR 88a that I just installed. It took a few days, but it's awesome. And cheaper than the 80a. But whichever you go with, JBR is awesome and his stuff is fantastic. (pick up a license plate frame while you're at it)

Yes very similar.

I got one last week and love it. I had Corksport inserts before, but like the Cobb much better.

I was going to make a new thread, but since everyone is posting in here about the mounts, I'll throw in what I finished up with this weekend.

I had the old, original SU rear mount. I bought this long before anything was out on the market. It served it's purpose, but it was dated and pretty much cooked. The vibes from that mount were horrible, from the go, after it was worn in, and especially since it had started showing signs it was failing. I suffered with it this long since the car is not my daily. But my god what I have been missing out on with the stage 2 mount from CP-E. The stage 2 mount is by far one of the best mounts I have had the opportunity to install.

Out with the old and cooked POS...lol!!

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps2fd3dac1.jpg


In with the secks...

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...psf2d79aa9.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...psed0a1ab5.jpg

I have about 50 miles on it right now, and this is the best the car has felt (as far as vibes/harshness) in a long time!!

Yeah, does anyone have the corksport 70? I'm between this and the jbr 88. My car is completely stock and will be for a while, I just want smoother shifting with the least amount of nvh.

Why not the JBR 70 then?

Or the JBR 80 if you're in between the 70 and 88?

All of our mounts are proven to be solid and you can save yourself some money going with ours too.

@SilverDemon; what TMM and PMM are you running?

I'm getting tired of the NVH with my TRZ RMM and TMM, and I'm looking for something as close to as solid as my current setup as I can get, with less vibes around 3K RPM.

The TRZ TMM I had for 50k miles+. Swapped for JBR sides and have less vibes than with just TRZ.

The TRZ trans mount only has only half a bushing and there is metal to metal contact as a result. The TRZ rear mount is pretty much the same.

Right now I still have the fail TMM and PMM from SU. I switched the rear mount to the CP-E stage 2 about 300 miles ago, it made a huge difference, and will be switching the side mounts out to CP-E when I have the available funds.

I read a few posts in threads that the 70 has just as much vibes as the 88. If that's the case why wouldn't I get the 88, seems like that's what everyone gets

Well because that was before the design change. It was the billet style 70 duro that it was being compared to the 88. Everyone usually gets the 88 because racecar.

Thanks for the input guys, I've decided I'm going to go with the 80, ill be ordering it tonight

Installed the new COBB RMM last night, 85A Duro , and I must say, ive been missing out.
I have not used or had any other mounts, so therefore i cant compare any of them what so ever. The fact that the way the car drives, feels in the steering wheel, shifts, its almost like a brand new car again. The vibes are a little tough down low, idle to 1400~ ish, but after that point they are non existant. The car feels amazing.

And FWIW, when i took the stocker out, it was broken, and never even noticed until then.
So, huge HUGE difference.

yeah after doing my mount a wk ago. its like a whole new car!. is Rmm 80a all u really need for a daily driver. cuz i love it.

:iconcur: Put mine in two days ago and it feels like a different car. I can't believe the amount of traction this car has now even in 1st. My exhaust even seems a little more aggressive sounding.

The vibes are pretty bad on mine below 2k as well, but from what I've read that goes away eventually.

I just installed the COBB rmm and all in all its awesome. Slight vibration at idle and low rpm threw slow driving. Big improvement in shifting response. Love it

I just did Cp-e, all three mounts (stage2 rmm) in 60 durometer. The cab vibes are crazy now but the hook up is awesome. I hope they settle soon, it's hard looking in the rear view mirror.

Just replaced my SURE TORQ PMM w/ JBR 80 duro. All I can say is...fucking.amazing.difference.

I know i'm going to get flamed for this but.... #datsmoothshiftlife

Thanks to Jamie for amazing products! @jbarone;

Just ordered the JBR 88. Because my girlfriend's vag.

Anyone running the JBR Speed6 70 duro passenger mount? I have the newer AWR one, but it still vibes to much. Makes the car interior plain fucking awful to drive in. Curious if the JBR is the same, better or worse since it is oriented differently. I half tempted to go back to some form of a stock side mount like the cheap ass Anchor.

BTW, the cars with sunroofs buzz and rattle far worse than those without. That is the only difference in Dustin's car and mine and he has far less buzzing than I do.

I have the JBR 70, after the initial break in, vibes were only slight, initially my dash was driving me nuts, but it went away. Still got the odd vibe that was rmm related.

I ended up removing it for daily duties as it (as well as most pmms I assume) transmitted a lot of noise into the cabin and car droned on the highway. Will be installed for track duties.

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I have the highest duro all 3 and have less vibes than I did with TRZ' trans mount and JNBR 88 RMM.

I have seen it posted here before people report less vibes with the stiffer mounts, too.

@RhoadBlock, maybe the newer Corksport rear motor mounts and transmission mount isnerts worth mentioning as well.

Can anyone confirm that the Gen2 factory TMM fits the gen1? I'm pretty much sure it does considering that the aftermarket mounts are not different, I just want to make sure then gen2 mounts don't have any weld or bushing that would interfere with something in a gen1. I have a CS TMM insert which fits the gen2 mounts and I want to be 100% sure before I spend the money on the actual mount.

The gen 1 trans mount is not the same as the gen 2.

@jbarone, I know that the trans mounts are different, but does a gen1 factory TMM fit a gen2 and the other way around?

No.

Nvm misread

Have my JBR RMM for few months, done 1500miles with it, idle vibrations gone, but I really hate those in beetween 2500-3000, my dash is shaking a lot along with windows, anything inside glove box, apart of that, this JBR is really awesome, shifts great, but don't like those vibes, so I'm looking for somenthing with less noticable vibes, as my car is DD. Which way should I go?

With just the RMM? Something is loose. I have all 3 and do not have that problem. You might have a failing side mount.

Side mount is new. Haven't vibes before RMM at all.

Stock side mount? I would look at the sides. A rmm does not do that.

Yes, new stock PMM, have installed that one few weeks before RMM, and car was without any vibes. Will do video after work.

1500 on the MS6 rear mount is not much. Remove it and reinstall it to be sure it's good then give it more time. This is the only rear mount that I'm aware of that has not failed. I would stick with it.

-Jamie

The Motor Mount Thread
 

Already reinstalled it when I fitted new DP. Will give it another few months to brake in even more. Thanks Jamie

So with it being Feb. 24, 2014. What are the results with everyones rmm now that you all have probably gone past the break in period? Any vibrating still?

Isn't is the 24th on most parts of the planet?

LOL edited. thanks!

My JBR 88 duro dogbone, minimal. Love it. Have all 3.

I just installed the cpe stage two. Mount is amazing totally worth the money

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Its not so bad. Only at times when your taking of at a light. But normally I can't tell

So I literally just bought my 2010 with 17k miles on it this past Saturday and I already notice how sloppy the shifting is. The little thunk it makes when you click it into gear and the amount of inertia you can feel going on in the engine bay makes me realize that I will be modding my rmm.

Was looking at the cp-e 65/70 range as this is my daily so I have 2 questions:
1. Is it a difficult install without a lift ( can I just use a few jacks)
2. How much will my vibs go up?
3. Will this help with the little thunk I get while shifting?

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1. No.
2. Some, but not a ton (IMO).
3. Yes


For what it's worth, the Stage 2 c-pe RMM is where it's at. I know it's more expensive than their "Stage 1" mount but I've had both durometer Stage 1 mounts and now I have the Stage 2 mount, and the Stage 2 is well worth the price premium.

Thanks for the input im looking at a cpe stage 2. Anyone think I should go a different route for a dd?

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Hey guys... I have no idea what brand these are. Can't find any label or stamping. Help? Attachment 151677

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Street Unit. Discontinued I think. Seen lots of failures. Use em as doorstops.do not put them on your car.