Thanks boss. That's what I needed to know lol.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Is that the trans mount that was breaking & dropping the trans, causing broken axles and other such excitement?

Between CS and JBR. Can anyone convince me? This will be my first mod followed by Autotech internals and an AP.

2010 MS3

I've heard nothing but "JBR is the best go with JBR" so that's what I'm going with lol I was torn between the two as well. Don't have any experience with either though!

Tapa Tapa Tapa

That's what I was thinking, but haven't really seen anything on the CS in this thread.

I'm going with JBR.

Hmm, I wonder why?

I can only speak for the JBR 70 and 88 duro.

Wife noticed when I installed the 70, she didn't even notice when I switched to the 88. I honestly didn't notice a difference between the 2 mounts in vibrations. The 88 just feels way more "planted" to the ground while accelerating as well. I use the car for daily driving as well, and the 88 is perfect. Still has a comfy ride. I also have a Balance Shaft Delete from JBR, and that will add more vibrations than someone without one, and I barely have any.

If you plan on only going with 1 mount (like I did) do yourself a favor and get the JBR 88 from the beginning. Tried out drag racing in this car the last month and went the first time with the 70a, felt like my motor was going to come through the firewall. Went back with the 88, no wheel hop (did have slicks this time as well, but wouldn't have did this with a 70. Plus JBR websites recommends other mounts as well if you go to the strip with just a 70, but not the 88).

The biggest thing is, make sure you torque the bolts to spec, or your going to notice a lot more vibrations and I'm sure premature wear. JBR is hands down a great brand.


And as you can see from my signature, I'm not one to give companies free advertising, but to answer your question, this is a good product.

you just sold me on the 88duro RMM instead of the 80 lol. Thank you good sir^

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Thanks for that. It'll be a DD but I plan on doing RMM, internals, AP, downpipe, and catback. It already has a SRI, not sure what kind, but I'll find out when I actually get the car this week. Just wanna do everything right.

This isn't the thread for it - but make sure you do AP and internals right off the bat :) both are incredibly important :) then jbrs RMM and RSB, :)

Tapa Tapa Tapa

So I know that I am going to get the JBR 88 motor mounts because everyone has convinced me they are the best ones on the market. My question is should I just start with the RMM or should I just upgrade all 3? I track my '12 MS3 twice a year and autoX it almost every month. As I have seen in this thread if I install each one properly and use red locitite the NVH will decrease with miles driven. I do not have an AP yet but seeing how everyone says it is one of the most important things I will look at investing in one as well. Thanks for the feedback.

Hey so I just ordered a cpe 75 duro stage 1. Are the vibs alot at first? Will I notice a huge improvement in shifting? Thanks in advance

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

Get at least the rear. Prolly will feel vibes, but don't be a puss. Leave em in a couple thousand miles.

Vibs will lessen over time I know but how much of an improvement will I have with the shifting?

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

@Raider I saw that you have all 3, how long did it take to for the NVH to be minimal?

I had the TRZ trans mount with JBR 88 dogbone for some time prior. I received used side JBR mounts that @kmac; had 500 miles or so on em before a 12 foot deep salt water bath from Hurricane Sandy. Once installed, my vibes diminished right away. Over time, 2000 miles maybe, I don't notice unless I get into one with no side mounts. Yeah I have noise. Some vibes. That beats the gen1 fun of trans mount bolt failure on stock mounts (google it) and the pmm squirting liquified fish-scented watery poo all over when it fails.

If you can afford it, get all 3. Use red Loctite on everything. Torque to spec. Not more, not less. Follow the instructions. Get with locals.

Fwiw my trans bolt got 1/2 tube of red Loctite. No problems yet.

No wheel hop. Just spin. Haha!

I think I posted this.

Attachment 152151

Lmfao @Raider;

Tapa Tapa Tapa

The 88duro JBR mount set is inbound to me... I'll post up thoughts and reviews for everyone when I'm done if there are some people still on the fence about it. I'm excited!

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Just realized the part about red lock tight... Isn't red supposed to be basically as permanent as it gets? Is that necessary? Lol

Tapa Tapa Tapa

None of it is permanent

The purpose of it is to keep the bolts from vibrating loose

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

I tried to get red lock tight out of something a while back and it destroyed the threads it was so "locked" haha had to tap and dye it. If it's necessary then OK, just wanna make sure I don't fuck anything up that's going into my block/tranny. Been down that road, unfortunately.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Probably just tightened whatever it was down too tight and pulled the threads. I've seen upper intakes with the white threadlocker do that sometimes (6g7x upper intakes). But it is always due to overtightening.

I'm definitely not saying it will come out of the threads easily...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Just put on the cpe stage 1 75 duro and it took about 15 mins on my buddies lift. Instant impressions are the vibes I was worried about are NOTHING! The only time you notice is from a stop in first or every time you make a hard shift and feel the engine stay put :-D

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

Putting on my 88duro trilogy tomorrow. So much stability to come. xD

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Let me know how the vibs are I might do all 3 now that tbis one is so mellow

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

Isn't the bushing for a speed3 88duro supposed to be red lol? Mine is black... Maybe I'm missing something. Hope I didn't get sent the wrong stuff.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

JBR trilogy came in today... I was under the impression that the bushing was supposed to be red for the 88duro RMM, etc. Just wanna make sure this is the right thing haha I also noticed that the top of the PMM around where the bushing is, is pictured elsewhere as having that aesthetically pleasing granite texture (like the RMM has), which it does not. Allllllso, thought that the smaller TMM piece was meant to have a JBR logo stamped on it. Just a little confused.... Lol. Attachment 153377Attachment 153378Attachment 153379Attachment 153380

Tapa Tapa Tapa

88duro RMM is installed. There are def noticeable vibes but that bitch stays planted when I launch haha I expect even more gains when I put the side mounts on I'll keep Ya posted.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Good to hear, just ordered mine today.

My StreetUnit RMM completely came apart on me.

Seems very Street Unit like lol :/

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Should've got a g unit one

My first install was last week. CP-E flex Stage 2 RMM. Pretty noisy at first, but has already settled down a lot.

What a difference. An entirely new car.


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They offered 50% off a new one if I ship the old carcass back to them, but it still sucks. At this point I'm just cleaning the car up to sell and not looking to spend more on it.

To my JBR 88 RMM peeps... Did you torque all 5 bolts to 70 ft lb? I did all 5 at 70 then reread the instructions, it said to do the supplied nut/bolt to 120. The vibes are worse than I thought they would be. Just looking for some feedback from you guys.

Man up

Give it time to break in. I have installed over a dozen of these for people, and there are rarely vibes. recheck torque. No Loctite, then maybe a bolt loosened. But overall, minimal, but they get way better over time.

Yeah, I was thinking about going back and rechecking it, but figured I'd ask first. I did loctite them. When I recheck, should I torque it to 120 or just leave it?

To spec.

And as above, man up.

I just took mine out and put in the cpe stage 2. I like them both but like the jbr a lil better. My shifts felt better with the jbr. I'll give the cpe more time tho. I got my vibes to go away by retightening where the two pieces connect. For the record, I never had to retighten my jbr, I tried, that fucker wouldn't budge.

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Well now I'm second guessing myself. To clarify, "spec" is 70 right? At least for most. What is this 120 nonsense lol

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Go on www.jamesbaroneracing.com and look at the instructions for the 88 RMM install. It says torque the nut/bolt that comes with the mount to 120. I went by everyone here on the forums that just said 70 all around should be good.

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For the jbr 88a rmm, all 5 bolts are 70 lbft.

The beefy jbr billet rmm is the one with a bolt that needs 120 lbft.

The instructions for the 88a are further down the page.

My fault then, I was reading the wrong one. Sorry guys.

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Ah ha! There we go. Cheers.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

I've had my MS3 almost 2 months now, I bought it used with 8500 mi on it. I seriously doubt the previous owner made any upgrades/mods to it but I guess there's always the chance he did. I've never driven any other Speed3's so I have no reference for comparison as to whether mine has better mounts or not. When I drive, I make an effort to shift smoothly but I've noticed when my husband drives, there's a slight clunking sound when he shifts from 1st to 2nd. There is some vibration at idle, at stop lights, etc but not enough to bother me; I realize this is not a luxury auto.

Since I'm a noob, is there anything i can look for, visual or tactile to determine the current stock or not stock status of the mounts?

I'm interested in the jbr 88 and will probably try to change out all of them before going on with other mods.

Look underneath at the bottom back of the motor and subframe to see if aftermarket. It is probably SURE and the bushing is shit.

Youd be surprised. Ive had my car almost a year and have less than 7k miles. Ive modded a bit; intake, internals, exhaust, rmm, ssp...

No vibes when I was stock. Vibes with rmm. Like raider said, get under the car and look. And if u do need a rmm, jbr88 is awesome.

I've got ~1,500 miles on my JBR 88 and the only time I notice it is when I'm in too high of a gear. It settled down a lot more than I thought it was going to.

I put the Cobb rmm on and there is some vibrations at idle but not bad, but when I turn on the AC pretty rough. Feels more like a beast to me though.

I've got a CP-e stage 2. Supposedly the least amount of vibrations out of all the RMMs. I've had it for a few thousand KMs and there's hardly any vibrations at all. Once you turn on the A/C that's when you notice a little shaking. Besides that it's awesome.

I have the JBR 88 trilogy mounts on my MS3 for over 1000 miles and these mounts are awesome. When I first put the mounts on the noise and vibrations were a bit harsh but nothing myself or my wife (who knows nothing about cars and just wants a smooth and quiet ride) couldn't handle. For the first 500 miles most of my mirrors were worthless just because of the vibrations but after that they have slowly started to settle. I noticed that my noise and vibrations were worst between 2500 and 3000 rpm. The most noise cam when downshifting and letting the car slow itself down.

However now that 1000 miles have been put on these mounts the noise and vibrations are minimal. I still sometimes cannot use the rearview mirror around that 2500-3000 rpm range. Downshifting noise is almost non existent. Plus I now feel the car more. You can feel what your car is doing and respond to it better.
@jbarone; FTW

Put the jbr rmm on my ms6 and nvh is only slightly noticeable at 200 miles or so. Good stuff!

I had problems with hard shifting from 1-2-3 but the rest are usually smooth so I replaced my rear motor mount with a Cobb and the problem is still there any suggestions

After having yellow and black goop all over the side of the engine, kinda figured the oem PMM was shot. Went with the JBR 70 PMM. Man, initial start up I thought I screwed something up because of how loud it was in the car. I loved it but it was really noticeable. I was a little worried that it was going to be like this from now with NVH but after a good couple hundred miles, i have very minimal NVH. Shifting is sooo much better, feel a lot less jerking (unless its just in my head) between shifts if i'm stepping on it. Next stop is getting the JBR 88 RMM from reading all your reviews on here.

So Trilogy Mount Package 80a Durometer or the Trilogy Mount Package 70a Durometer? How much vibration does the 80 cause over the 70?

Very little difference. My prefered combination is the 70 passenger and 88 transmission. Little to no difference in NVH from 70-88 when it comes to the transmission mounts. Passenger mount is minor.

-Jamie

Just go for the 88 Trilogy!

^^ or this ^^

I would not buy side mounts at all to much nvh. I also wouldn't buy a jbr 88. Cpe stage 2 or dammond mount performs just as good if not better and significantly less nvh over the jbr 88

Sent from my gs5

I actually do not notice my trilogy other then the cheap dashboard cam mount that has started to rattle.

Correct.

After break in there's little or no NVH. For the price you can't beat the performance from our mounts.

I have had the 88 dog bone for the past 25k miles and side mounts for the past 8k miles or so. Other then at idle with the AC on or taking off from a stop at lower RPM or engine braking I don't really notice any extra NVH, even then it isn't bad.

I am doing the first suggestion (80a on rear and transfer and 70a on passenger)

Lol little to no nvh my ass. I took my broke in cpe stage 2 off. Put on a broke in jbr88 and the nvh was terrible compared to the cpe.

Sent from my gs5

It is only noticeable in my ms6 in 1st and barely in 2nd (mirror vibes). I had a new stock mount before I switched. Not sure what to tell you. Jbr feels exactly the same as steeda did on my 06 fusion.

This was in my 3. Not my current 6. I posted a thread comparing the different rmm I tested on the 3

Sent from my gs5

You had good luck with cpe till it broke?

Which one ended up doing the job?

No I didn't break it. I decided I would do a comparison between. It and the jbr. As local friend of mine has a jbr88. He tried my cpe stage 2 for a week, I tried his jbr88 for a week. We then switched back. He didn't want to give me the cpe back. It have an order of magnitude less NVH than the jbr88. And performs better. I put over 100 autocross runs on the cpe without issue.
@agant13;

Sent from my gs5



Sent from my gs5

That's not really an apples to apples comparison. The reviews we've received on the 88 state otherwise but, everyone feels different about NVH.

The cost for of our mounts and the performance you get from them is pretty hard to beat.

The DM mount beats it.

Yes the level of NVH is dependent on what the person likes, it is something you can measure though. I think a dB meter and tool to measure vibration, could easily be used to decide which mount has less NVH.

I fail to see how that is not an apples to apples comparison. The only thing that changed on either car was the rmm. Yes the cpe is more expensive than yours, but it is still your competition.

Also of those reviews you have recieved, how many of those customers have used a different mount? How many went from a cpe stage 2 or DM mount to yours?

Sent from my gs5

well it's not apples to apples in my case, because cpe doesn't make the stage 2 for the speed 6, just the speed 3. They also only make the RMM not side mounts for the speed 6.

The durometers are not the same was what I was referring to and that makes a significant difference when comparing.

Just for the record, I'm not arguing with you and I respect and welcome your input and opinion.

I have tested them all except the MD. My biased opinion is the 88 performs better and for at $100 bucks its a steal. That's all I'm saying. I gotta be a salesman sometimes.

It's all personal preference. The older platforms I'm used to with g series mazda gearbox have front and rear mounts and had a lot more nvh than this platform when you replaced them... even still, there were guys running solid mounts for odd f/i applications who weren't complaining.

When somebody asks me why it vibrates so badly, I just say 'because racecar'

If my car was a dedicate track car then I would give no fucks about nvh. My car is a dd/track car. It still needs to provide some level of comfort.

In my testing I autocrossed on both mounts. The CPE performed just as good as the 88 and has significantly less NVH

Sent from my gs5

My wife is my NVH test!

I installed my JBR 88 RMM right after I got my car back from the body shop and my wife thought they broke something on my car. She rode in the car a couple of weeks later and asked what I did to fix it but still commented that it wasn't 100% back to normal. After several months she commented again that it was almost back to normal.

When I installed the 88/80 side mounts I drove the car for about a month before letting her ride with me and the only thing she noticed was the noise from the transmission. I used that as an excuse to swap transmission fluid. When I switched fluid I noticed it was actually short almost a full quart. Filling it with the correct amount of Ford fluid made a difference in sound.

Now that I have had the JBR trilogy for over 6 months I barely even notice them. I'm not saying if I was to switch to different mounts and then back I wouldn't notice a difference. What I am saying is that between them settling and what I have gotten accustomed to hearing/feeling, I barely notice them and my wife doesn't notice them like she did.

I use my wife as a comparison as she rarely rides in the car with me and it is my daily. She also comments about how stiff the ride is in my car and how loud the exhaust is. I think most of us would agree that the stock suspension isn't that stiff, my exhaust on the other hand might be considered loud to some.

Wife === litmus paper

I've had my JBR RMM for over a year and my JBR PMM for a little over half a year. If I had to do it all over again, I'd STILL go JBR over other brands. The build quality is amazing. The NVH settles down a lot over time. I can't even really tell anymore. Not to mention I went with an 88a RMM and a 80a PMM.

Can't wait for that last TMM. Definitely going 88a on that as well.

I should also add that I have been in a car with a full set up CP-E mounts and the difference between them new and at idle with the AC on vs JBR broken in and at idle wasn't noticeable to me. With that said the CP-E might be smoother then JBR but I would still pick JBR over CP-E due to cost and build quality. I also like the little added noise and vibes of JBR.

Just put in my jbr rmm 88a today and it took me about 30min.. Stock one was shitty.lol vibes are pretty nasty right now but I'm guessing they'll get better.

Installing JBR motor mounts, the torque specs in the directions from JBR differ from the shop manual torque specs for the bolts attaching the to the motor and the frame. Should the shop manual torque specs (higher) or the JBR torque specs (lower) be followed?

Use the lower spec.

What about for the transmission motor mount? No torque specs are listed in the JBR directions for that one

I thought they were when I installed mine. Could be wrong... Maybe I used the oem spec.

For ms6? Can't hardly get a torque wrench on any of the bolts. Just get them tight.

Strange, didn't have any issue getting a 14" HF 1/2" drive torque wrench on mine with a shallow 6pt craftsman socket. Car was on ramps, but would have probably been higher on a set of stands.

Thank y'all, installed, running great!

??WHAT??, say it louder
 

Sooooooo,

I have been driving the car with a TRZ TMM, JBR PMM, and The RMM I put on years ago, can't remember the brand its a one piece proly the medieval. I checked it once awhile ago when I felt clunks shifting hard and it was tight and intact (shoulda checked PMM,haha)

so, with the current setup, feels great from a perfomance aspect, and the vibes are there, for sure, but I am ok with the tactile vibes, not a driving issue

The NOISE, however is a deal breaker. Its horrendous intrudes on conversation, the stereo, masks other car sounds which are important to be aware of.

Its gotta go.

I'm going to try leaving the JBR in and putting the OEM TMM back in place as a test since my oem PMM is blown and the TMM appears intact.
if that largely corrects the noise (which is the engine vibes inducing something to vibrate in the midbass range, dashparts, firewall???)
then I guess I leave it , or find another TMM, or mod the TRZ ( TMM fairly simple, PMM fairly techy.

has anyone else tried to chase down the source of the noise, and muffled it ?? added Dynamat etc?

I had mad vibes. TRZ trans mount bushing after 40-50k was wore. JBR went in, vibes and sound settled.

I would pull the rear. Swap anything midevil.

right on
dunno for sure the RMM brand, its the one that had the rep for bad welds back in the day. mine was a wednesday unit

Duno how many miles on the TMM, looks newish, but with a small, hard bushing

Update
 

Genpu MMs:

• JBR RMM 88 & unknown durometer
• CP-E RMM Stage 2
• JBR TMM unknown
• CorkSport RMM
• JBR PMM unknown
• JBR RMM 80
• Sure RMM TorqR3 WARNING: read http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...3/#post1927730
• JBR PMM 80
• JBR RMM 70
• Cobb RMM
• CorkSport TMM
• Damond Motorsports RMM
• JBR PMM 70 & 88
• CP-E TMM
• TRZ RMM
• CorkSport PMM
• Street Unit RMM WARNING: read http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...3/#post1927730
• Ford Electric Focus RMM (RMM part number CM5Z-6068-A; bolt W500545S900)
• Minerva PMM & TMM (probably best to avoid, see http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...orwerkz-65851/ )
• Sure PMM & TMM WARNING: read http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...3/#post1927730
• AWR RMM 88
• Torque Solution RMM
• Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount
• Turbine Tech Differential Mount

Update using 2015 prices:

JBR RMM Urethane
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422448444
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422595395
Available from:
MS6
JBR RMM Urethane MS6
MS3
JBR RMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 80a $105), MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 88a $100, 80a $125, 70a $125), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 88a $100, 80a $125, 70a $125)

CP-E RMM Stage 2 Rubber
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422506769
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422528447
Available from:
MS6
CP-E RMM Stage 2 Rubber MS6
MS3
CP-E RMM Stage 2 Rubber MS3
MS6 (Yes: 70a xFlex) $139, MS3 1st Gen (Not found), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $198

JBR TMM Urethane
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422448506
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422947089
Available from:
MS6
JBR TMM Urethane MS6
MS3
JBR TMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 80a, 70a) $175, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 88a, 80a, 70a) $185, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 88a, 80a, 70a) $185

CorkSport RMM Urethane
MS6's Insert
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422448647
MS6's Full Replacement
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422448738
MS3's Insert
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422507038
MS3's Full Replacement
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422507092
MS3's Race
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422507132
Available from:
MS6
CorkSport RMM Urethane MS6
MS3
CorkSport RMM Urethane MS3 Gen1
CorkSport RMM Urethane MS3 Gen2
MS6 (Yes, Standard 70a) $115.99, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: Insert 70a $39.99, Standard 80a $99.99, Race 80a $125.99), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: Insert 70a $39.99, Standard 80a $99.99, Race 80a $125.99)

JBR PMM Urethane
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422753917
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422528515
Available from:
MS6
JBR PMM Urethane MS6
MS3
JBR PMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 80a, 70a) $175, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 80a, 70a) $185, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 80a, 70a) $185

Cobb RMM
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422528569
Available from: Cobb RMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes) $159, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $159

CorkSport TMM Insert Polyurethane
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422528621
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422357283
Available from:
MS6
CorkSport TMM Insert Polyurethane MS6
MS3
CorkSport TMM Insert Polyurethane MS3
MS6 (Yes) $54.99, MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $39.99

Damond Motorsports RMM
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422357478
Available from: Damond Motorsports RMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $145 in black or gold mount and black or red bushing

CP-E TMM
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422528720
Available from: CP-E TMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes, 75a) $271.30, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes, 75a) $271.30

TRZ RMM
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422528773
Available from: TRZ RMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $100

CorkSport PMM
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422357543
Available from: CorkSport PMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $229.99

Ford Electric Focus RMM (RMM part number CM5Z-6068-A; bolt W500545S900)
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422448355
Available from: local Ford dealership
MS6 (Not confirmed), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $43.92 + $1.10

AWR RMM Urethane
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422754244
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422528845
Available from:
MS6
AWR RMM Urethane MS6
MS3
AWR RMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $82, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $95, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $95

AWR PMM Urethane
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422529392
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422529447
Available from:
MS6
AWR PMM Urethane MS6
MS3
AWR PMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $172, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $172, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $172

AWR TMM Urethane
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422529506
MS3
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422529551
Available from:
MS6
AWR TMM Urethane MS6
MS3
AWR TMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $140, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $225, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $225

Torque Solution RMM Polyurethane
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422530287
Available from: Torque Solution RMM Polyurethane MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes, 75a) $134.99, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes, 75a) $134.99

TRZ TMM
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422529912
Available from: TRZ TMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $100

Damond Motorsports PMM
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422754716
Available from:
Damond Motorsports PMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $225 in black or gold mount and black or red bushing

Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount
MS6
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1423567923
MS3 Gen 1
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1423567980
MS3 Gen 2
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1423568024
Available from:
MS6
Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount MS6
MS3 Gen 1
Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount MS3 Gen 1
MS3 Gen 2
Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount MS3 Gen 2
MS6 (Yes) $359, MS3 1st Gen (Yes) $399, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $379

Turbine Tech Differential Mount
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1423568073
Available from: Turbine Tech Differential Mount MS6
MS6 (Yes) $289, MS3 1st Gen (Not found), MS3 2nd Gen (Not found)

This is GREAT! The biggest thing I can ask of you, is to update the whole OP, so I can copy and paste it all in. One thing I am seeing, is missing images. For theones missing, I am asking you go to their site and fined and link the newer image. Feel free to save and upload in your post here for permanent hosting.

Protege Garage is now FJ Motorsports, but there is no PMM from PG.

To prevent confusion, this is the Speed3 mount thread after all, you may wish to remove the bit that says "MS6 (Not found)," since most of the listed companies make mounts for the 6

This is actually THE motor mount thread, copied in both sections.

Wanna split it up, all I need is 2 posts. 1 MS6. 1 MS3.

Just wanted to update these more accurate information...

MS3:
• JBR RMM 70, 80, 88
• JBR TMM 70, 80, 88
• JBR PMM 70, 80

MS6:
• JBR RMM 80
• JBR TMM 70, 80
• JBR PMM 70, 80

I'm fine with the content being the same in both, certainly easier to copy/paste!

This being the case then, let's just change my earlier comments to reflect that most of those companies make mounts or inserts for the 6, the following are easily found-

CPE Speed6 Mounts-
RMM - 70a Rubber - http://cp-e.com/webstore/product/maz...r-motor-mount/

Corksport Speed6 Mount & Inserts-
RMM - Urethane - http://corksport.com/corksport-mazda...tor-mount.html
TMM Insert - Polyurethane - http://corksport.com/corksport-2006-...nt-insert.html

JBR Speed6 Mounts-
http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sho...ath=42_213_245
RMM - 80 Urethane
PMM - 80 & 70 Urethane
TMM - 80 & 70 Urethane

AWR Speed6 Mounts-
RMM - 70, 88, 95 Urethane - http://store.awrracing.com/engine-mo...07-rear-lower/
PMM - 70, 88, 95 Urethane - http://store.awrracing.com/engine-mo...assenger-side/
TMM - 70, 88, 95 Urethane - http://store.awrracing.com/transmiss...t-mazdaspeed6/

SURE Speed6 Mounts-
RMM - Urethane - http://www.suremotorsports.com/product-p/sure0547-1.htm
PMM - Urethane - http://www.suremotorsports.com/product-p/sure0551-1.htm
TMM - Urethane - http://www.suremotorsports.com/product-p/sure0550-1.htm
Urethane listed as Street, Aggressive or Track, duro not provided

I saw that @Inquisitive; listed the Ford Focus RMM. I'd like to contribute by adding the Ford part numbers.

Electric Focus RMM: CM5Z-6068-A
Bolt: W500545S900

@Raider;

I cannot update the OP, but you should be able to quote, copy and paste mine into the OP with your super-user privileges.

@jbarone;

Thanks for the durometer numbers. Just for clarity, it wasn’t that I didn’t know your numbers, it was that the MSF member didn’t put the numbers in their signature or personal profile. Like many vendors, you will find that I have visited many members already to get my descending ranking order. With threads like this it is often asked, “Which is the best?” This is difficult to answer as some consider best quality at any price, personal preference / bragging rights / street cred (popular brand), best value (quality at a good price), popularity (local Nator), cheapest price, etc. Like the Wiki and my other threads, this is just a list in descending Genpu purchased popularity order and not meant to be a slight upon JBR's good name. I have placed the durometer numbers in the images section.

@TiGraySpeed6;

Thanks for the links. Uploaded.

@tegxsi;

Thanks for the Ford part numbers and images.

I can easily edit the post 1, no problemo. But for some reason, the new update looks to be missing a lot.

TO get the details from the OP, you can choose to quote it. It will give you the details of the OP, and then you can edit as needed, then post it up all with everything from images to product links.