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 Old 02-13-2012, 10:07 AM   #41
 
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Answer is easier. Just get 88 durameter dogbone. Once it settles after a couple of hundred miles or so, the vibes are barely noticeable. I hardly feel any change when A/C kicks in/out. If there are strong vibes after it settles, that means the bolts need to be re-torqued.

My daily commute is 40 miles each way and I would not use the dogbone if the vibes bothered me.

And jbr install instructions cover everything you need to know. There are only five bolts involved.
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 Old 02-13-2012, 10:32 AM   #42
 
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lol not much love for the TRZ up there; "hundred bux ea. here's a pic." then again I'm biased and love mine.

Good thread though and thank you for another "definitive" thread. I think the summary that was provided a few posts up was very useful too (or would be to someone looking to purchase mounts).
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 Old 02-13-2012, 03:48 PM   #43
 
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I am looking at upgrading the RMM on my MS6 come spring. Looking at CP-E and SURE. Can't decide between the CP-E rubber and the SURE urethane. Thoughts?
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 Old 02-29-2012, 06:30 AM   #44
 
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Torque Solution MS3 RMM added to OP.

Be sure to mention me if you feel anything should ever be added to the OP.
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 Old 03-06-2012, 09:57 PM   #45
 
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opinions on Sure vs JBR RMM? besides $135 vs $90. which is "better," more effective, more dependable?
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 Old 03-07-2012, 05:45 AM   #46
 
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both great companies, both great products
heck you could choose by color, or by throwing darts, and you couldn't go wrong between those two.

You'll be pleased by the improvement regardless of the decision.
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 Old 03-07-2012, 05:54 AM   #47
 
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JBR has 3 different duro's for the transmission mount now.
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 Old 03-10-2012, 04:16 PM   #48
 
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Just finished installing AWR 88 durometer mounts all the way around. Install very easy, no hangups and took around 2 total hours. Increased vibrations at idle a lot, 1K - 2.5K RPM also vibrates a ton in all gears. Hope it smooths out after a few thousand miles. All in all, completely confident know with motor movement.
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 Old 03-14-2012, 01:01 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by wankular View Post
I would add a sidenote about using red loctite for the CPE trans mount, in case anyone buys a used one without instructions. Avoid that whole fiasco again.
They have also started including a thin metal backing plate that will physically prevent the bolts from backing out. Between that and red Loctite those bolts aren't going anywhere!! If you don't have the plate I'll bet you can get one from them cheaply, if not free. Or go to a metal shop and get one fabbed up.


Reviews and thoughts on the MM's I've used.
TRZ RMM & TMM: I had these on my '08, put them both on at the same time so I can't speak directly on one or the other. TONS of noise & vibes. Seriously, I thought we'd F'd something up royally!! I got used to the vibes & noise, but never much liked it.

CorkSport RMM Inserts: Probably better than folks give them credit for being. Got light mod's and don't want noise & vibes? Get these, you can find 'em used for $20-30. I had them on my Stage 2 car for several weeks without any troubles.

JBR RMM Billet in 80 duro: Quite a bit of vibes, I didn't like it. The bolt that came with mine (it was a lightly used piece) was only a Grade 2 bolt and snapped before I got to the recommended 120#, spend an extra $4 and get a Grade 8 bolt. Mine also seemed to fit a bit loose and clunked when I went on/off throttle. I checked the bolts numerous times and they were all tight. *EDIT* See JBR response below. I did buy mine used and the bolt I got was definitely a Grade 2 bolt, seller may have done a switcharoo on me.

CP-e 60 TMM & 75 RMM: I had the TMM for one day before I got the RMM. VERY nice piece, vibes & noise non-existent. RMM I got was used and already broken in, again it's a super nice piece with little to no noise & vibes. Want top shelf quality and can deal with very slight (if any??) vibes & noise? Get these. If/When I swap the passenger side MM, I won't won't look at anything other than the CP-e piece! My ONLY complaint, there wasn't a sticker in the box to put on my toolbox!!

CP-e Stage 2 RMM: I had the Stage-1 75 duro mount in my car for a while, but still was getting some nasty wheel-hop. I found a new-open-box Stage 2 on another site that I got a good deal on. I've only made a couple of pulls but my wheel-hop seems gone now. The Stage-2 RMM does add some vibes & noise over the Stage-1 mount, but still less than I found on competitor's urethane based RMM's, I suspect they'll settle some with use.
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 Old 03-14-2012, 07:53 PM   #50
 
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Uh, 70 ft. lbs. on the JBR (it's a SS bolt now so it's about a Grade 5,) and the vibes are negligible.

my .02
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 Old 03-15-2012, 04:33 AM   #51
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Always has been a stainless bolt, same bolt included with the CP-E or any other billet style mount and as mentioned, not a grade 2 bolt. Whomever the mount was purchased from sold it to you with a crap bolt.

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 Old 04-25-2012, 04:30 PM   #52
 
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just trying to get any follow up input from those with the SURE RMM (street). has the vibration dissipated at all? or have you gotten used to it?

thanks in advance.
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 Old 04-25-2012, 06:44 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by 6Y MAZDA View Post
opinions on Sure vs JBR RMM? besides $135 vs $90. which is "better," more effective, more dependable?
to follow up on this...i ended up going with SU RMM 62 duro i believe. got it for free from the previous owner of my car. vibrations are very very minimal.
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 Old 05-02-2012, 05:24 PM   #54
 
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Great thread.

I haven't done anything on my car yet (tint doesn't count IMO), but the engine mount issue is well documented and discussed, so it's something I've thought about frequently. I am fairly (maybe a bit generous) good with easy-ish car repairs and what-not... can anyone tell me (generally speaking) what tools I should have on hand to swap out the engine mounts?

Thanks in advance..
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 Old 05-05-2012, 12:49 AM   #55
 
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Originally Posted by nicholas.oday View Post
Great thread.

I haven't done anything on my car yet (tint doesn't count IMO), but the engine mount issue is well documented and discussed, so it's something I've thought about frequently. I am fairly (maybe a bit generous) good with easy-ish car repairs and what-not... can anyone tell me (generally speaking) what tools I should have on hand to swap out the engine mounts?

Thanks in advance..
....soooo, I read some directions on the JBR website. Turns out I MAY have asked an asshole question. Oops. Must buy JBR RMM....

'merica
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 Old 05-06-2012, 10:52 PM   #56
 
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Default DIY?

dSt DIYMMI Do It Yourself Motor Mount Inserts - Liquid Urethane

nN control of duromoeter rating though. Still probably better than neoprene.
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 Old 05-07-2012, 02:50 AM   #57
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That's not for ms3...
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 Old 05-07-2012, 10:45 PM   #58
 
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sez universal. replaces the neoprene in any motor mount.
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 Old 05-07-2012, 10:47 PM   #59
 
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you can read?
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 Old 05-08-2012, 06:51 AM   #60
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Nice try, fuckhead. Yes, I can read, and no, those wont work.

Originally Posted by crtguns View Post
sez universal. replaces the neoprene in any motor mount.
Originally Posted by crtguns View Post
you can read?

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 Old 05-08-2012, 07:06 AM   #61
 
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Somebody double-check me here-

I thought this stuff was the kind you shoot into the voids of the mount to fill em up and solidify the mount. Works on any mounts with void area.

Not personally a fan of the concept, it's just a band-aid fix at best, and for the time/effort involved you get better performing, longer lasting results from a "real" replacement mount.
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 Old 05-08-2012, 07:09 AM   #62
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Yeah, we did that crap in the 3rd Gen Proteges with epoxy. Works for a couple years, then breaks loose.
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 Old 05-09-2012, 01:30 PM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by p057 View Post
...Once that was put in, put everything back up and drove it down the road. LOVED it. soooo smooth. and NVH was NOTHING. I mean, the tiny ass amount of vibes was so little. I am really disappointed that people were telling me to go softer. too soft.

Seriously, pussy. Now that i put 60 miles on it, i barely feel it anymore and i kinda wish i went with a higher durometer count than that...

As far as the mount itself, if you really feel that you dont care (and have the means) about cutting the prong-things at the frame and would like to save a few bucks, go the AWR mount route. get a higher durometer count. 88 is really just minimum you should go at all. i would love to jump up to 95 DM ...
I ran 95 durometer motor mounts all the way around in my old MSP (RIP) and vibrations were pronounced, but not insane. Definitely not bad enough to offset the dramatic improvement in response and feel. I had gotten the weight down to around 2750 lbs... The MS3 is around 400 lbs heavier, and the MS6 is approximately 800 lbs heavier... I can't see the vibes being that harsh at all; especially in the MS6.
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 Old 05-10-2012, 11:27 PM   #64
 
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I have an unusual amount of "clunk" at low speed driving, especially on less-than-perfect roads, and from what I have read on MSF it sounds like my RMM could be the culprit. I had the dealership give the car a once over right before my 40k warranty was up (several times before as well) and mentioned I thought I heard quite a bit of "clunking", but each time they said all was well. This is my DD and I put a lot of highway miles on it, along with occasional spirited driving, and I just cannot decide of I should go with the CS inserts or something like a 70A JBR. I have some simple mods planned (SRI, short shift kit, tune, maybe some suspension upgrades) so I would rather touch the RMM only once if possible. Anyone want to share some wisdom with me? I should probably mention this is for my '09 MS3...

Thanks for reading!

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 Old 05-14-2012, 03:39 PM   #65
 
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i pretty sure if you read the previous post it pretty much sums up everything you need to know....just saying
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 Old 05-15-2012, 09:14 PM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by gyoku2006@gmail.com View Post
i pretty sure if you read the previous post it pretty much sums up everything you need to know....just saying
I will have to disagree, seeing as how the previous post mentions nothing about the CS inserts.

Additionally, I completely understand the arguments made regarding "the higher the better" in terms of DM count. However, and I feel this bears reiterating so someone can offer a HELPFUL opinion, I am on the highway the majority of the time and only occasionally put my foot in the car. I am prepared to replace the RMM (or go the CS inserts route) and I would like to hear from anyone who might have had experience in both, and what their driving impressions were. I have read through this thread in detail (I ain't got shit else to do right now - my left knee is toast and I'm counting money I haven't made yet) and I have to say, unless I missed someone's post earlier about the two specific solutions I discussed, I'd say I satisfied my duty in reading.

Just saying
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 Old 05-16-2012, 06:00 PM   #67
 
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Originally Posted by atvfreek View Post
I have cs Rmm inserts and they work pretty good. Basically no additional vibes.

I also just purchased a jbr 80 duro and took it out after 150 miles. A little too harsh for my taste and DD. Might through it back in and try breaking it some to see, but for now the cs inserts it is.

Tappin
there, cs inserts
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 Old 05-16-2012, 06:22 PM   #68
 
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Originally Posted by nicholas.oday View Post
I will have to disagree, seeing as how the previous post mentions nothing about the CS inserts.

Additionally, I completely understand the arguments made regarding "the higher the better" in terms of DM count. However, and I feel this bears reiterating so someone can offer a HELPFUL opinion, I am on the highway the majority of the time and only occasionally put my foot in the car. I am prepared to replace the RMM (or go the CS inserts route) and I would like to hear from anyone who might have had experience in both, and what their driving impressions were. I have read through this thread in detail (I ain't got shit else to do right now - my left knee is toast and I'm counting money I haven't made yet) and I have to say, unless I missed someone's post earlier about the two specific solutions I discussed, I'd say I satisfied my duty in reading.

Just saying
Originally Posted by gyoku2006@gmail.com View Post
there, cs inserts
The CS inserts are actually very good for what they are. Very good feel, and it will take care of that little bump you feel between shifts. For the money, you can't go wrong. Only reason I upgraded was because I do some track days and wanted something a little more heavy duty (although the inserts probably would've done fine)
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 Old 05-16-2012, 08:58 PM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
Uh, 70 ft. lbs. on the JBR (it's a SS bolt now so it's about a Grade 5,) and the vibes are negligible.

my .02
Well, here's your two cents back... From Page 6 of the JBR install doc located here.... http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

"Place a flat washer, lock washer and nut on to the supplied stainless bolt. Tighten and torque to 120 foot-pounds using a 19mm socket, socket wrench, torque wrench and closed end wrench."
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 Old 06-01-2012, 05:21 PM   #70
 
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im intersted in the trz rmm and tm. cuz im a lady and i love me some vibes ~. when i go to the site they have them listed for 2004 to 2010. since i have a 2012 ms3 will these parts fit my car?
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 Old 06-09-2012, 09:04 PM   #71
 
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Well fuck, so I pop the hood today to finish cleaning up a wiring project after running the car hard as fuck last night on the freeway, and I see this oily shit all over the place that looks like its coming from the valve cover gasket right by the passenger side motor mount.

Wiped it down, started the motor, reved it, let it run, no oil comes out.

I noticed this oily shit is pooling in the little rubber dish that is the motor mount.

Took a real good look and it look like the mount was ripped, pushed down on it and a thick gooey oil started pouring out.

Sooo I take it the passenger side mount is supposed to be fluid filled?

Just ordered a new CPE mount cause its ripped regardless but are they supposed to be fluid filled?
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 Old 06-09-2012, 09:39 PM   #72
 
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Originally Posted by radioflyer View Post
Well fuck, so I pop the hood today to finish cleaning up a wiring project after running the car hard as fuck last night on the freeway, and I see this oily shit all over the place that looks like its coming from the valve cover gasket right by the passenger side motor mount.

Wiped it down, started the motor, reved it, let it run, no oil comes out.

I noticed this oily shit is pooling in the little rubber dish that is the motor mount.

Took a real good look and it look like the mount was ripped, pushed down on it and a thick gooey oil started pouring out.

Sooo I take it the passenger side mount is supposed to be fluid filled?

Just ordered a new CPE mount cause its ripped regardless but are they supposed to be fluid filled?
yup, flooid filled indeed.
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 Old 06-09-2012, 10:45 PM   #73
 
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Originally Posted by tddvrrn View Post
yup, flooid filled indeed.
Suweeet. If I like this mount I'll get all 3
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 Old 06-10-2012, 01:12 PM   #74
 
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Originally Posted by radioflyer View Post
Suweeet. If I like this mount I'll get all 3
that is the only mount on mine that is stock, and i modified it with some aluminum to reduce its movement.. i am surprised you don't have a RMM, they're usually the first to be replaced.

i love the car with a TMM and RMM. it just feels so much tighter, more connected.. you get the idea. motor mount upgrades in this car make such a huge difference, especially since they improve shifting, which is the one weak point i found with my stock car.

have fun!
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 Old 06-10-2012, 02:24 PM   #75
 
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I had the street unit RMM, and it was driving me crazy. I drive 85% solid traffic back and forth to work. The stock mounts allow you to be significantly more lazy with the clutch pedal. The OEM mount is just begging to burst again so I wanted something solid without oil in it.
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 Old 06-28-2012, 09:41 AM   #76
 
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Ordering the JBR 80a RMM today. Any thoughts/impressions about this particular one?
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 Old 06-29-2012, 09:39 AM   #77
 
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Either brilliant or incredibly stupid question incoming:


Should winter weather be included in my considerations for RMM, and if so in what regard?

--

I'm just getting into modding my MS3 and as recommended will be doing this first. I want to thank everyone who's contributed so much helpful information here, and OP for consolidating it all to the top.

I'm still not sure which brand to get; however, I do feel confident that whichever I decide upon I will likely be happier with the results than stock.

--

I haven't seen much information during my research about a Sure or a Torque RMM.
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 Old 06-29-2012, 11:36 AM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by viisual View Post
Either brilliant or incredibly stupid question incoming:


Should winter weather be included in my considerations for RMM, and if so in what regard?

--

I'm just getting into modding my MS3 and as recommended will be doing this first. I want to thank everyone who's contributed so much helpful information here, and OP for consolidating it all to the top.

I'm still not sure which brand to get; however, I do feel confident that whichever I decide upon I will likely be happier with the results than stock.

--

I haven't seen much information during my research about a Sure or a Torque RMM.
The latter lol. Jbr dogbone if you dont mind some vibes.
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 Old 07-01-2012, 02:12 PM   #79
 
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Great sticky. I have an mz3 and my PMM broke....AGAIN. Looking to replace it and thinking about the AWR one. Anyone who's been riding with it for awhile care to comment? I saw the post with the guy showing his broken one and the install already.
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 Old 07-03-2012, 12:09 AM   #80
 
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just installed the CPE second generation RMM for my 2012 MS3, it was simple and there are obvious improvements as as a result and the machining of the two piece mount is really great. A very good mod BUT you need two people to install this, although it is simple, one person lines up the bolts, the other pushes the engine. This wasn't made clear in any directions. The install guide just talks about needing to fiddle with the engine a little, shows just one set of hands, etc.
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