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I r also aerospace machinist. Which is why I had to be so adamant about powder forging NOT being casting. |
Canada |
:D |
I r a machinist too ! |
I wish i was a machinest, am not that good. I just sorta know how to use some of the tools/machines and have them avalible to me. |
Well i got the braided clutch line from i forget who... and it only had one nut with its edge rounded off so i had to fix that... http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2870.jpg Next i needed to get the old pilot bearing out of the clutch so pack the bearing full of grease http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2875.jpg Pack a long 1/4" drive 10mm socket full of grease and hammer it in. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2871.jpg Repeat untill it comes out http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2877.jpg Next use the front motor hanging bracket as your tool to hold the flywheel well you install and tighten the flywheel bolts/clutch. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2879.jpg Clutch installed http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2881.jpg Now to prime the motor for the first start i rigged this $10 drill pump into the oil pressure sensor port and a tee'd in a 6 dollar gauge to make sure that i actually am doing something. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2882.jpg the tee fitting setup http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2883.jpg new oil for the transfer case and trans http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2884.jpg Motor waiting for its home... http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2886.jpg |
Yeah that is acool trick packing the bearing with grease and using hydrualic pressure to force it out, and wow your pretty anal with the oil priming, another way to prime -with the engine installed back in the car is to pull the injector and coil pack wires and bump it until the oil pressure gauge registers pressure....I do that on every oil change. Devil's advocate/forgive me but why not replace the rear main seal, and did you replace the ttyl flywheel bolts????? |
Heard flywheel bolts aren't ttyl. Stand on the gas when cranking. Injectors shut off. |
that is a new rear main seal actually, and i did buy new bolts. With flywheels i don't like to gamble. |
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2895.jpg Worst V-band in the world getting fixed.... again http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2899.jpg http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2908.jpg http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2907.jpg http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2911.jpg http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_2915.jpg |
well i have driven about 150km and things are going good. the motor is running nice, i modified the cobb Stage2+SF+TIH 93 v200 to have 12psi of boost (0% wastegate duty cycle) a 5000rpm redline. So far the logs have looked good. due the the head work i think (i forgot to mention i did bowl work) the computer had to add 10% to the long term fuel trims. Since i haven't been beating on it i have just adjusted the MAF cal in the lower values (32 and under). What is cool is that this car is building boost instantly, anything over 10-13% throttle = boost. one log showed 13psi at 2700rpm at 40%thottle car; wants to move. The plan is to start doing full throttle stuff in about 350km. With the electric dump and a meth kit i am hoping this might be the fastest stock turbo MS6 next year. |
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:biggthumpup: |
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But this. to prime motor for oil on MS3/6 hold gas pedal to full down and turn car over, Car is not suppose to start. BUt should produce the 10lbs of preassure to make oil light go off. |
Tech/Sales@EM I need the alignment tools... please somebody with PM privileges tell him that I need the tools... Thanks, JJ |
no start vvt so i am sure ill get blaster for bringing up an dead thread, but. i went through very write up on this site and i have no other choice. i am at the cranking portion of the job were i have completed everything using a forum write up from here, and using the help of a fellow speed member! the car will try its hardest to crank but nothing happens it chugs along and nothing. new battery no blown fuses. used the sure align plat(but the tdc bolt bent) new spark plugs pre gaped at.32 ngk irridum whatever from autozone I am out of ideas any constructive help besides thanks for post on an old thred or be would help |
So it cranks, correct? Did you prime the fuel pump. I wouldn't think it would have lost pressure but your never know. Turn ignition on for a few seconds (until you hear the fuel pump priming), then repeat 10 times. I learned this from the all knowing beard. |
i did as you suggested still nothing. also i am getting the infamous p0091"spillvalve"code now so idk wtf is going on. |
so for the edit. i did as you suggested. and to nothing. i am also throwing a fantastic p0091 aka"the spill valve" code. now i have 86k on the pump but up graded internals. so im kinda stuck all around now |
is the crank position sensor in the correct spot? did you put it on with the Crank bolt in so your on TDC? and than align the Crank position sensor on the white spot on the Crank pulley! |
it was when i did the rebuild. but i got a p2088 code and i have dug in more and found it the cam psoitiong sensor and now, i bought one and no dice! i am starting to worndering if i need a new engine harnes? and i am still unsure if my car is in anit thief mode, i did the map flash and now a red car with a crazy lookin key on theou help me inside and proced to reflash the stage one maps. any ideas. i look at som code data and possible solutions. I also aligend the crank position sensor and then moved to as sugested in a wrtie up. |
So I had a local shop do this job for me but it is still ticking in rhythm with the rpm. Granted it runs better then before the chain was replaced but the noise is almost more defined. It is still sluggish and when shifting or coming out of gear the rpm drops slow almost like it sticks for a split second. I'm a noob not a gear head and have run out of ideas. Any help is appreciated. |
Well this thread doesn't know if it wants to be a VVT/timing chain or engine build thread. Quick timing chain question: Is replacing the chain guides standard when the timing chain & tensioner get replaced? Hardly any of the "full VVT replacement" kits I've seen include new chain guides and the pics earlier in this thread of the old ones at twice my mileage hardly seem bad. Also, some kits have 14 replacement valve cover bolts (that seal) but these alone is over 1/4 of the cost of the kit. Any chance these are reusable? I'm only at 57k and the valve cover has never been off to my knowledge so I'd like to think they're still good. Kits also recommend getting a new gasket and O-ring for the fuel pump. They're cheap so I probably will swap them out while I'm in there but I'm not sure if that's necessary. |
I am having a similar problem as to what captian said. This is the 2nd time i have taken it all out and replaced it all. The thing i did differently was that the first time i didn't loosen the exhaust cam gear which the chain ended up being loose when the engine was off and feeling threw the oil fill hole. Now i did it again but this time did the exhaust cam loose and i even gave the chain tension 2 extra clicks tighter from the get go. Chain was tight threw out the turns in all 3 places. So i put it all back together and wahla it worked! I was like POOIHF:OSIEHF YESS!! Then boom I am driving and my hard work and HIGH on yes i fixed it gets a swift kick to the taint and a what felt like a huge rod up the fart box and now if im not in the throttle say more than 1/4 almost half throttle it doesn't slap but if i go over that and hit like 5+ psi of boost it slaps.....>GRRR any ideas anyone. I feel as the timing could be messing with that as when its under boost (now i don't know but i have an idea) the vvt does what "advances or retards" could this cause the chain to come loose and slap? I know there is no bent rods and nothing else i can honestly see. I am a mechanical engineer and I fully understand how this works but the "Tuning" and stuff like that eh im a little slow and leave to others that know it, as im not lazy to learn it but far to busy to. So yes any ideas of whats causing this problem OH one thing i forgot the crank sensor. If it is off say by .020 or like a fraction of the center of that tooth "the 20th tooth or something like that i remember, sorry going off top of my head at work" could that cause something to the effect of this issue im having? Oh and yes i know i need a better tune it only has a pile of crap stage 2 Cobb OTS. thanks |
hmmm those two chains next to each other, make me wonder how in the heck the chain could hit the valve cover... are you telling me the tensioner can't handle 6mm of slack? Great write up, I just am having a hard time believing that much chain stretch would justify a whole new chain or cause valve conver slapping issues where a new one wouldn't... Super greatful for the writeup tho since like I will surely have to do mine soon, as my car passes 100k mark |
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Valve Adjustments Hey guys, I'm doing my timing chain and was checking my valves. Is it common for the exhaust valves to be out of spec? They all were around .35mm. The car has 116k miles. The intake valves were all in spec. |
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