Originally Posted by 86azms3 (Post 1954761)

fuck it i'm doing it...you only live once.

Originally Posted by Voltwings (Post 1954768)

If you look at the grille ( i remember you having a Gen2 correct?) you will see that a good upper portion of the smile is blocked off from behind. That plastic cover hides the crash bar, i've contemplated buying one of the slim bars, i believe UR and CP-E sell them, and taking all that plastic out to allow more airflow in the front grille. Not saying you need to spend more money to make this experiement worth it, but certainly something that should work well in conjunction with it.

Originally Posted by 86azms3 (Post 1954761)

fuck it i'm doing it...you only live once.

Originally Posted by aggierandy (Post 1954780)

I can't believe you YOLO'd us! LMAO.

RapaTapTap

Originally Posted by daafisch (Post 1950479)

i

As for max fluid temps: Water - 260°F, Oil 300°F+. The oil that they run is Maxima RS1040 and they don't ever worry about oil related issues.

Originally Posted by mrQQ (Post 1960384)

by the way, don't know about AP, but VT has table "Fan On Engine Coolant Temperature"...

Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 (Post 1951627)

Has anyone upgraded there rad on here?

I don't mind using a gen1 rad so long as I can make it work without too much custom work.

I think it should be safe to say that if you track you should upgrade the rad.

Originally Posted by silvapain (Post 1954558)

+1. I am interested in the KOYO radiator upgrade, but my CXRacing FMIC hot pipe barely fits as it is with the stock radiator.

Originally Posted by 8.5MS3 (Post 1960452)

I have one sitting in a box

Once my clutch is finished being built, the new mods go in, and the tune is done I will be more than happy to post logs and such

its still balls cold here tho....

Originally Posted by mrQQ (Post 1960384)

by the way, don't know about AP, but VT has table "Fan On Engine Coolant Temperature"...

Originally Posted by chuckms6 (Post 1960399)

Atr had that, it was ineffective so it was removed

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Originally Posted by Dano (Post 1960475)

Do you know if the koyo is thicker than OEM?

Originally Posted by RallySportDirect (Post 1707619)

OEM Core Dimensions: 26-3/8 x 14-1/2 x 5/8 in.

Koyo Aluminum cores have more efficient cooling fins as well as the added capacity an thickness to help dissipate more heat.

Koyo's Core Dimensions:

Core Depth: 1.0in
Core Height: 14.48in
Core Width: 26.37in

The major difference is the added 3/8" of thickness to the core.

No issues with condenser core clearance as this will fit in the exact same location as the OEM core and work with the OEM condenser.

It will install just like OEM and fitment will be of OEM quality with Koyo's.

I personally have run 2 of the Koyo Performance radiators on my cars and never had any issues to speak of with temps. AC running in the middle of the summer and 100+ degrees temps and the temps stay normal. On track and racing same as well.

Originally Posted by Dano (Post 1960542)

gheto?

haha I don't even think I fit into this catagory so IDK why I even posted...just for the general knowledge I guess.

what FMIC kit do you have and we'll wait to see how your fitment turns out...please be honest and tell us if you went gheto.

Originally Posted by 86azms3 (Post 1954771)

And also with it open there is more fresh air for the heat to diffuse to the ambient when your stopped. Of course convection> diffusion

But also due to the high heat of the radiator you have forced convection...so i'm thinking even stopped it's a win win.

Originally Posted by Voltwings (Post 1962657)

Have you gotten ballsy yet? My intake manifolds coming out this weekend so I was thinking of tackling this while I was at it.

Originally Posted by 86azms3 (Post 1962722)

Nah fiance said i coudn't have my balls and instead made me paint the bathroom. I'll try to commit to monday or tuesday, hopefully with data.

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go (Post 1951513)

FYI,

I personally think one of the reasons I have been able to keep the stock block together is that I rigorously follow a few simply rules:

1.) Never beat on the car until ECT's are up to temp (no more than 5-10 PSI), because clearances aren't right and KR is not active.

2.) Never beat on the car if ECT's are high (over 200°F), my pulls are typically after highway cruising with ECT in the mid 180's.

3.) Never do back to back pulls. Mine are always at least 3 min of highway driving apart and typically much longer.

2/3 help avoid overheating the piston and butting the rings, which is what I would believe is the most likely hypothesis to explain why people are breaking ring lands...

I do also run plenty of meth/eth for KR avoidance coupled with 2 heat range colder plugs than stock...

Originally Posted by Dano (Post 2007738)

there is already something in the works ;)

Originally Posted by erevlydeux (Post 2007744)

Doesn't mean two (or more!) people can't work on things in parallel and combine their efforts :D

Originally Posted by erevlydeux (Post 2007744)

Doesn't mean two (or more!) people can't work on things in parallel and combine their efforts :D

Originally Posted by Dano (Post 2007908)

the news on the alternate aux fan controller can be found here. @BlueStreak; has been working on this for a few weeks and its almost ready.

I didn't 100% like the aux controller solution that Anthony had going so I asked Dave [bluestreak] if he could make some magic happen since he is practically building a dashawk type of device from scratch. The name Dashawk does't do that device justice but the easiest thing I could think of.

This lil thing will aid greatly in heat management.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...6/#post2007570

Originally Posted by Alpha (Post 2007976)

I see, but it looks like a PITA to install while requiring more of the driver's attention due to the lack of a thermostat switch.

The benefit of that way is complete control anytime, but you'd have to be constantly monitoring coolant temps to know when to flip the switch. :o

I'd rather just drive an know I'm at 200 or less at all times lol

Cool work though!

Originally Posted by Alpha (Post 2007976)

I see, but it looks like a PITA to install while requiring more of the driver's attention due to the lack of a thermostat switch.

The benefit of that way is complete control anytime, but you'd have to be constantly monitoring coolant temps to know when to flip the switch. :o

I'd rather just drive an know I'm at 200 or less at all times lol

Cool work though!

Originally Posted by breakfasteatre (Post 2008009)

There is a thermostat switch. It is completely automatic. Although he hasnt posted photos of the board he made, you can adjust the low and high temp thresholds and it will turn the fan on and off accordingly.

@BlueStreak;

Originally Posted by erevlydeux (Post 2008140)

The lack of it being plug-and-play is what detracts from its value in my eyes. Having to pull out your radiator fan assembly and scrape/solder to wires? Eek. I'm surprised that was the approach taken over tricking the on-board fan controller into thinking it needed to be on.

Originally Posted by BlueStreak (Post 2008216)

You're stealing my thunder! Thats for revision 2. I already looked into it and it wasn't as straight forward as I had assumed so I back tracked a little.

Originally Posted by BlueStreak (Post 2008253)

Ah. It's definitely back in the car now.


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