MZR DISI Heat Management

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by 86azms3 fuck it i'm doing it...you only live once.

If you look at the grille ( i remember you having a Gen2 correct?) you will see that a good upper portion of the smile is blocked off from behind. That plastic cover hides the crash bar, i've contemplated buying one of the slim bars, i believe UR and CP-E sell them, and taking all that plastic out to allow more airflow in the front grille. Not saying you need to spend more money to make this experiement worth it, but certainly something that should work well in conjunction with it.

Edit: fail, i see now you have an 09. Oh well maybe i'll have to be the one to try this ^^ out haha

[86AmishMs3]

And also with it open there is more fresh air for the heat to diffuse to the ambient when your stopped. Of course convection> diffusion

But also due to the high heat of the radiator you have forced convection...so i'm thinking even stopped it's a win win.

Originally Posted by Voltwings If you look at the grille ( i remember you having a Gen2 correct?) you will see that a good upper portion of the smile is blocked off from behind. That plastic cover hides the crash bar, i've contemplated buying one of the slim bars, i believe UR and CP-E sell them, and taking all that plastic out to allow more airflow in the front grille. Not saying you need to spend more money to make this experiement worth it, but certainly something that should work well in conjunction with it.

Negative genwon

[aggierandy]

Originally Posted by 86azms3 fuck it i'm doing it...you only live once.

I can't believe you YOLO'd us! LMAO.

RapaTapTap

[86AmishMs3]

Originally Posted by aggierandy I can't believe you YOLO'd us! LMAO. RapaTapTap

Oh...so that's what YOLO means? Guess I'm just getting old.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by daafisch i As for max fluid temps: Water - 260°F, Oil 300°F+. The oil that they run is Maxima RS1040 and they don't ever worry about oil related issues.

Fucking crazy awesome that these engines can handle those temps.
Not that it should, but good to know that it can.

[mrQQ]

by the way, don't know about AP, but VT has table "Fan On Engine Coolant Temperature"...

[chuckms6]

Originally Posted by mrQQ by the way, don't know about AP, but VT has table "Fan On Engine Coolant Temperature"...

Atr had that, it was ineffective so it was removed

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[8.5MS3]

Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 Has anyone upgraded there rad on here? I don't mind using a gen1 rad so long as I can make it work without too much custom work. I think it should be safe to say that if you track you should upgrade the rad.

Originally Posted by silvapain +1. I am interested in the KOYO radiator upgrade, but my CXRacing FMIC hot pipe barely fits as it is with the stock radiator.

I have one sitting in a box

Once my clutch is finished being built, the new mods go in, and the tune is done I will be more than happy to post logs and such

its still balls cold here tho....

[Dano]

Originally Posted by 8.5MS3 I have one sitting in a box Once my clutch is finished being built, the new mods go in, and the tune is done I will be more than happy to post logs and such its still balls cold here tho....

Do you know if the koyo is thicker than OEM?

Originally Posted by mrQQ by the way, don't know about AP, but VT has table "Fan On Engine Coolant Temperature"...

Originally Posted by chuckms6 Atr had that, it was ineffective so it was removed Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

^^^ Correct, forget about ECU fan control...not going to happen b/c the majority of the logic is in the external controller on the fan. The ECU just sends a few input signals to it AFAIK:

AC on
Car stopped
ECT

From there the external controller makes its decisions about on/off

full info in Ant's thread linked in OP.

[8.5MS3]

Originally Posted by Dano Do you know if the koyo is thicker than OEM?

Originally Posted by RallySportDirect OEM Core Dimensions: 26-3/8 x 14-1/2 x 5/8 in. Koyo Aluminum cores have more efficient cooling fins as well as the added capacity an thickness to help dissipate more heat. Koyo's Core Dimensions: Core Depth: 1.0in Core Height: 14.48in Core Width: 26.37in The major difference is the added 3/8" of thickness to the core. No issues with condenser core clearance as this will fit in the exact same location as the OEM core and work with the OEM condenser. It will install just like OEM and fitment will be of OEM quality with Koyo's. I personally have run 2 of the Koyo Performance radiators on my cars and never had any issues to speak of with temps. AC running in the middle of the summer and 100+ degrees temps and the temps stay normal. On track and racing same as well.

see above

[Dano]

This is my worry for my setup at least...I suppose most things can be worked out but I have about that much space between my fan and IC piping.

The major difference is the added 3/8" of thickness to the core.

[8.5MS3]

neoprene sticky pad on the pipe?

[Dano]

gheto?

haha I don't even think I fit into this catagory so IDK why I even posted...just for the general knowledge I guess.

what FMIC kit do you have and we'll wait to see how your fitment turns out...please be honest and tell us if you went gheto.

[Snyeed]

Ghetto

[8.5MS3]

Originally Posted by Dano gheto? haha I don't even think I fit into this catagory so IDK why I even posted...just for the general knowledge I guess. what FMIC kit do you have and we'll wait to see how your fitment turns out...please be honest and tell us if you went gheto.

Cobb FMIC

surprisingly my car doesnt have too many zip ties, and no duct tape

i will post pics

[Lex]

A thicker core may not add to where the fans mount with respect to the chassis. The endtanks where the fans mount are larger than the core. So the core can grow without moving the fans inward.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Ayy room to run pusher fans instead of pullers?
could free up some room if the condenser isn't an issue

[Dano]

yes pushers were briefly discussed a page back or so. There is 3.5" in front of my FMIC. zero room for a fan between the AC condenser and FMIC...well < 1"

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by 86azms3 And also with it open there is more fresh air for the heat to diffuse to the ambient when your stopped. Of course convection> diffusion But also due to the high heat of the radiator you have forced convection...so i'm thinking even stopped it's a win win.

Have you gotten ballsy yet? My intake manifolds coming out this weekend so I was thinking of tackling this while I was at it.

[86AmishMs3]

Originally Posted by Voltwings Have you gotten ballsy yet? My intake manifolds coming out this weekend so I was thinking of tackling this while I was at it.

Nah fiance said i coudn't have my balls and instead made me paint the bathroom. I'll try to commit to monday or tuesday, hopefully with data.

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by 86azms3 Nah fiance said i coudn't have my balls and instead made me paint the bathroom. I'll try to commit to monday or tuesday, hopefully with data.

Wrecked haha. Well mine might be done this weekend and we can compare gen 1/2 at the very least.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go FYI, I personally think one of the reasons I have been able to keep the stock block together is that I rigorously follow a few simply rules: 1.) Never beat on the car until ECT's are up to temp (no more than 5-10 PSI), because clearances aren't right and KR is not active. 2.) Never beat on the car if ECT's are high (over 200°F), my pulls are typically after highway cruising with ECT in the mid 180's. 3.) Never do back to back pulls. Mine are always at least 3 min of highway driving apart and typically much longer. 2/3 help avoid overheating the piston and butting the rings, which is what I would believe is the most likely hypothesis to explain why people are breaking ring lands... I do also run plenty of meth/eth for KR avoidance coupled with 2 heat range colder plugs than stock...

Compression check results:

Driver side to Passenger side (I forget the numerical order)

182-176-174-177

4.5% delta between max/min. I can live with that at ~500whp.




I love these motors...

[Dano]

Looking good!

BTW since I will soon be putting a new motor in and plan to use the " pull it through the front method", I am tempted to pickup a koyo. I'll already have the rad out anyway and am hemorrhaging money already what's another 400.
Lol


Tappin

[erevlydeux]

Necroing this shit, but does anybody in the NE area, or hell, anyone whose willing to ship one, have a spare radiator fan they'd be willing to give to me? I'd love to take a crack at figuring out a simple way to provide an override signal to the fan that is PNP for errbody.

[Dano]

there is already something in the works

[erevlydeux]

Originally Posted by Dano there is already something in the works

Doesn't mean two (or more!) people can't work on things in parallel and combine their efforts

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by erevlydeux Doesn't mean two (or more!) people can't work on things in parallel and combine their efforts

Get ballsy lol weekends are as long as you make them.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by erevlydeux Doesn't mean two (or more!) people can't work on things in parallel and combine their efforts

tis very true.

[erevlydeux]

Guess I can just build a pass thru harness and tap the pass thru for debugging.. easier than finding a spare rad fan

[Alpha]

I still wanna see some AWR radiator results before I scoop one up!

[Dano]

the news on the alternate aux fan controller can be found here. @BlueStreak; has been working on this for a few weeks and its almost ready.

I didn't 100% like the aux controller solution that Anthony had going so I asked Dave [bluestreak] if he could make some magic happen since he is practically building a dashawk type of device from scratch. The name Dashawk does't do that device justice but the easiest thing I could think of.

This lil thing will aid greatly in heat management.

Time To Go Forged.

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by Dano the news on the alternate aux fan controller can be found here. @BlueStreak; has been working on this for a few weeks and its almost ready. I didn't 100% like the aux controller solution that Anthony had going so I asked Dave [bluestreak] if he could make some magic happen since he is practically building a dashawk type of device from scratch. The name Dashawk does't do that device justice but the easiest thing I could think of. This lil thing will aid greatly in heat management. Time To Go Forged.

I see, but it looks like a PITA to install while requiring more of the driver's attention due to the lack of a thermostat switch.

The benefit of that way is complete control anytime, but you'd have to be constantly monitoring coolant temps to know when to flip the switch.

I'd rather just drive an know I'm at 200 or less at all times lol

Cool work though!

[jmhinkle]

I think I like the standalone solution better as well. I have the parts already anyways.

[breakfasteatre]

Originally Posted by Alpha I see, but it looks like a PITA to install while requiring more of the driver's attention due to the lack of a thermostat switch. The benefit of that way is complete control anytime, but you'd have to be constantly monitoring coolant temps to know when to flip the switch. I'd rather just drive an know I'm at 200 or less at all times lol Cool work though!

There is a thermostat switch. It is completely automatic. Although he hasnt posted photos of the board he made, you can adjust the low and high temp thresholds and it will turn the fan on and off accordingly.

@BlueStreak;

[erevlydeux]

The lack of it being plug-and-play is what detracts from its value in my eyes. Having to pull out your radiator fan assembly and scrape/solder to wires? Eek. I'm surprised that was the approach taken over tricking the on-board fan controller into thinking it needed to be on.

[BlueStreak]

Originally Posted by Alpha I see, but it looks like a PITA to install while requiring more of the driver's attention due to the lack of a thermostat switch. The benefit of that way is complete control anytime, but you'd have to be constantly monitoring coolant temps to know when to flip the switch. I'd rather just drive an know I'm at 200 or less at all times lol Cool work though!

Originally Posted by breakfasteatre There is a thermostat switch. It is completely automatic. Although he hasnt posted photos of the board he made, you can adjust the low and high temp thresholds and it will turn the fan on and off accordingly. @BlueStreak;

Correct. Its set and forget. Nothing manual. Give me some time

Originally Posted by erevlydeux The lack of it being plug-and-play is what detracts from its value in my eyes. Having to pull out your radiator fan assembly and scrape/solder to wires? Eek. I'm surprised that was the approach taken over tricking the on-board fan controller into thinking it needed to be on.

You're stealing my thunder! Thats for revision 2. I already looked into it and it wasn't as straight forward as I had assumed so I back tracked a little.

[erevlydeux]

Originally Posted by BlueStreak You're stealing my thunder! Thats for revision 2. I already looked into it and it wasn't as straight forward as I had assumed so I back tracked a little.

If you still have that radiator fan of yours out, you should check if there is a part number on the 3-pin connector that goes into the fan controller. I'd love try and find some mating pieces to build a harness and dink around on it.

[BlueStreak]

Ah. It's definitely back in the car now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dano]

Well I thought since Dave already posted in his thread it was ok to mention it.

Afaik all the "wants" will be included in the finished product. No hacking of hoses required.

You guys that want those china rad hose adapters and sending units that don't come in till 200 have at it!

Good things come to those who wait.

I hope Dave doesn't disown me.




Tappin

[erevlydeux]

Originally Posted by BlueStreak Ah. It's definitely back in the car now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

¡Ay que mala situacion! Anybody else got theirs our and wanna take some pics of the connectors?