NATOR Style DownPipe!!!

[bioevolve]

Got around to doing the Nator Style Downpipe!!! YAY!!!
Stock gutted Downpipe in addition to my already Stock Gutted Test Pipe. Did this with the manifold still on. I know some have taken off the manilfold for easier access.

Disconnect battery. Soak as many bolts and nuts with PB Blaster spray.
Disconnect sensor connectors.

Stock Gutted Test Pipe, shield removed, prep'd for painting.


Stock Gutted Downpipe, shields removed.


Cut everything off of it, prep'd for painting.




Moved my L/A IC out of the way alittle.

Remove Firewall heat shield, Top & bottom manifold shields, Sensor #1 and top DP shield.




Un-bolt DP nuts, bracket, testpipe yadayadayada. Reuse same gaskets.

DP and TP are painted with 2 heavy coats of 2000 degree ceramicy paint.
Put everything back on in reverse order, make sure you have the sensors off before putting in the DP!!!!
Wire brushed all joining peices.
Test fitted the sensors.


I love my RED HI-TEMP RTV!!! Used some DEI Cool Tape for the sensor wires.










De-Foulers in.









Connected battery back up. Baked on the paint: 10min idle, 10 min cool, 20min idle 20min cool, 30min idle, cooled for tomorrows test drive to work.
Hopefully I will have a chance to dyno it before my Pro Tune, to see if any power is gained.


Stock DP $25 ebay
Stock TP $25 ebay
Paint $10 autoparts store
Cool Tape $10 autoparts store
RTV $5 autoparts store
Foulers $5 autoparts store

$80 Catless DP with some work lol. Already had the tools and other small stuff.

Update addition to the how-to:

It's in the automotive help section, comes in a pack of two. 42002.


They both have this size hole.

You drill out the second one with a 1/2" bit.

Put them together like this.


Then put the O2 sensor on top of them. (second O2 sensor that is lol).

[DSIT995]

Another cool Mod/Project by Bio

Very Nice

[Addikted To Boost]

any issues during removal or reinstall? I think the main reason for gettin aftermarket is just the general shitty flow characteristics of the stock one, but maybe this will help some. That sharp downturn then the fucked up flow into and out of the cat really sucks. But let us know what the butt dyno says.

[madvillain]

Nice!

[predapio]

I swear Bio, I would have sworn you were gonna bust out the powder coat oven and

bake the dp and tp....knowing you, a light bulb just went off; and we'll see that thread

next week.

[bioevolve]

Originally Posted by Addikted To Boost any issues during removal or reinstall? I think the main reason for gettin aftermarket is just the general shitty flow characteristics of the stock one, but maybe this will help some. That sharp downturn then the fucked up flow into and out of the cat really sucks. But let us know what the butt dyno says.

Just sensor removal was slow, working it back and forth.
Yeah, the flow is not a prime canidate for anti-turbulance/bubble effect lol.
I know the gutted TP gave some oumph lol, but well see.

Originally Posted by predapio I swear Bio, I would have sworn you were gonna bust out the powder coat oven and bake the dp and tp....knowing you, a light bulb just went off; and we'll see that thread next week.

I didn't have time, I was supposed to have been done last night, but I couldn't find my O2 sensor socket and had to wait till morning to get one at the autoparts store. I'm only limited to mostly late nights with my mods lol. So it doesn't interfer with family time lol. But today it did and someone got mad hahahahaha.
I do have about 2lbs of that 1200 degree powercoat in black, but don't know if it can with stand our EGT's.

[bioevolve]

Test drive this morning to work was brutal lol. 40*degree AMB (for Florida that's way cold).
Less Lag, a heavy half throttle and I'm already at 18+ psi with 21psi spikes.
It's more peppy and responsive in the sense of power to gas pedal effect.
At WOT I got my boost/load/fuel cut back around 4000-5000rpms lol, 22-24psi spikes.
Fuel trims are good, AFR is normal. No CEL nor smoke yet (fingers crossed).

Butt Dyno gives it 2 thumbs up!!!!
There is definitely power feeling, now gotta set an appointment for dyno. Oh, and find another OTS map that best fits the setup now.

[Cataphract_40]

how did you go about gutting the pipes?

[bioevolve]

Originally Posted by Cataphract_40 how did you go about gutting the pipes?

Hammer, long flat tip screw driver, a box and some time.
Just hit screw driver with hammer, chipping/digging into the catylist. Box under it to catch all parts and dust. Hitting from different angles helps alot, eventually it will crumble and fall off the side walls. There you gotta break those peices even smaller to get it thru the openings.

[D08SPEED3]

So basically you just removed both cats but gutting it? If i was to cut of my cat from dp and weld in piping then flash it to clear the cell will this gain me some decent power?[/B]

[bioevolve]

Just scrapped the insides out of the stock parts lol. Like pumpkin carving, sorta.

Yes, decent power. The foulers are there to help with CELs.

[flyrevs2]

you are apparently running the AP, so my question is this: how / why did you get boost/load/fuel cut ? I don't understand this, since the AP raises the cut point up quite a bit. THis morning it was real cold (about 2 deg.) and after my car was warmed up I got on it in 5th at about 80 mph and hit some kind of cut as well. This is the first time it has happened to me, since the AP. I'm running stock boost levels fyi. and have a CPE fuel pump. Not trying to thread jack, just sayin since I had a cut similar to yours. Thanks

[bioevolve]

I think it's because we are hitting a calculated load level. In ATR you can up it. Which I haven't messed with yet.

[Dash08]

You obviously smoke weed.

2 THUMBS UP!!! Keep up the good work!!

[boardjnky4]

would the car pass an inspection?

[flyrevs2]

how's the smell with no cats ?

[bioevolve]

Originally Posted by boardjnky4 would the car pass an inspection?

Probably not lol, but if you know someone in that section, then yes lol.
Florida there is no inspection.

Originally Posted by flyrevs2 how's the smell with no cats ?

I really don't smell anything different at the back of the car, but there are fumes of sort coming in the cabin and around the hood area. Probably the paint still baking and/or burning that PB Blaster spray stuff off.

[Docnox]

I think it depends on the state. CT doesn't have inspection either, I don't see why you wouldn't pass.

And with emissions, lots of places don't do the sniffer test anymore. Soooo if they plug your car in, you have no CELs, and it thinks you're catted up, you'll definitely pass.

[bnoon]

Just something that wasn't shown in pics is that you need to pull out not only the main ceramic/metal media from the cat, but you also need to make sure that there's not any steel wool pieces left in there. They use a steel wool type material to seal the cat "brick" to the metal body of the cat (two pieces, one fore, one aft). Did yours not have that stuff in them? Would hate to have it block something down the line.

Been driving catless cars since 1986 in Iowa. :-)

[bioevolve]

Nope, it didn't have any type of wool/steel screen. Just the honey comb substrate. Unless it is brittle as the substrate it's attached to, then it broke apart with the substrate.

[Hectik1]

Really good right up bioevolve! I have been wanting to do this but the sensor removal is what scares me. I already have a gutted 2nd cat so this might give me the push to do the main cat!

[bioevolve]

The sensors both locked up on me, but if you work them back and forth they will come out. Some threads might be missing or damaged but not to bad lol. It will go back in after some cleaning to the threads and some filing. They will hold tight again. Just don't over power them trying to get them off, some people have broken them right off doing just that.

[miguelbates]

Originally Posted by bioevolve The sensors both locked up on me, but if you work them back and forth they will come out. Some threads might be missing or damaged but not to bad lol. It will go back in after some cleaning to the threads and some filing. They will hold tight again. Just don't over power them trying to get them off, some people have broken them right off doing just that.

totally know what you're talking about lol if you break one i know where to get them at oem price. lol bio i <3 your nator abilities...if you were a super hero that would be your superpower hahaha. nice job and i bet you have a double digit hp increase. another fine job by bio lol

[bioevolve]

Originally Posted by miguelbates totally know what you're talking about lol if you break one i know where to get them at oem price. lol bio i <3 your nator abilities...if you were a super hero that would be your superpower hahaha. nice job and i bet you have a double digit hp increase. another fine job by bio lol

We will see today on the Dyno. I know if you just have an aftermarket DP as the only mod the the gains would be about 25whp, but when you already have mods on the car already then it just becomes a percentage gain.
Example:
Aftermarket Downpipe (only mod) 25whp gain Stock 250whp to 275whp
DP above plus other exhaust and intake mods about 8whp gain (3%) Modded 290whp to 298whp.
That's about fully bolted, but there is a peak with just bolt-ons using Stock ECU or OTS Maps.
Now Tuning all that is a different story, the percentage goes higher!!!!!!!!!!

Hopefully it will yield more lol. Fingers Crossed!


Update:
PWNED Self lol.

[karl-hungus]

good luck, bio!!!

[bioevolve]

Well I Myth Busted my own calculations!!!!!! PWNED Myself hehehe. Will post up a link of today's dyno shortly.

[bioevolve]

Link to thread uploaded:

Yet again went got another dyno!



NATOR STYLE DP FTMFW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[free_refil]

Absolutely amazing, who woulda thought there would be that much gain from just gutting the stock DP? Freakin' awesome...

[karl-hungus]

bio, do you think you could gut the dp just by taking the tp off? long screwdriver, hammer & a shopvac?

[bioevolve]

That is gonna be hard, you would have to take the bottom sensor out so it wouldn't get damaged. The screw driver would have to be bent about 30degrees to get to half the sides of the cat area. You can try it, might be just as much work as taking it off. Best if you take it off the car and do it or just buy an extra one lol.

[Biggu]

that liquid to air inter cooler is genius! perfect for a MS3 thats for sure.

[bioevolve]

Originally Posted by Biggu that liquid to air inter cooler is genius! perfect for a MS3 thats for sure.

Well not for the price I paid for it lol. Feel sorry for anyone that buys one at full price.

[mouse0330]

Rich, after this project with our ms3, I hope you will help me with the GTR.lol

[bioevolve]

Definitly will help with the GTR!!! Get those Actuators on soon lol.

[ZoomByU]

i painted the headers on my motorcycle and when i first started it and baked it i thought it was on fire somewhere from all of the fumes! lol. it goes away after a few good drives.

[Ghost Rider]

I will have to try this

[mouse0330]

Originally Posted by Ghost Rider I will have to try this

just do it

YouTube - DO IT, DO IT - full, perfect quality

YouTube - DO IT, DO IT - full, perfect quality

[prenedo]

so you can just chisel that shit out??? I'm gonna try that on my RP and sell my ebay one if it works.

[bioevolve]

Yep, the TP will be the easiest to chisel out. Just make sure you get everything in the lol.

[J-villa]

toker ingenuity has paid off once again. Nice work son.

Now you got me wanted to follow in your footsteps.