Need help after build,
 

OK I am stuck...first off I have a 07 speed with fresh build, wiseco pistons , manley rods, and bolt ons, car is tuned. Ok so the issue is when I first started the car it was crazy rich.. afr was 12s, stft was -25% and all. I recheck for leaks and did a boost leak. Nothing found. Cleaned the maf and checked the purge valve(seemed good) now after all that I :thinking:started and ran abit longer and things have improved but still not right. afr is 14.7ish stft around-.1 or so ltft -.8 if I recall, but vac is 6 or so.. so it seems I have a leak but I have checked and rechecked and cant find anything.....anyone have insight please

When you say tuned, can you be more specific? Base map from a tuner, self tune, previous map, etc? Also what do your flow mods look like (intake size, dp,etc)? Is your ap throwing codes? Who built and timed the motor? This will help greatly

Sorry lack of info. tuned local, been using him for about a year. and I even tried a previous map, no change. 3.5htp, catless atp dp, no codes and was built by a mazda tech with all proper tools ie cam alignment tool and all. nothing has changed but the rods and pistons. and gaskets of course.

what im most lost at is the vac is only -6 and the hpfp is 800psi at idle...400ish is where it was normal for me

Is he e-tuning you or dyno/street tune? Im assuming you arent on any aux fueling? As far as your build, eas any honing ir decking done? Clearances, crank, and head inspected? Proper boost leak AND leakdown test done? Unmetered air is a son of a bitch. As far as afr, I wouldnt call 12 crazy rich by any means, but that's just me

honed, decked yes. both etuned and street, all was inspected as it should.

Ok, whos tuning you? Can you post some logs for us to look at?

I will try asap, I was just told maybe a bad primary o2 but I cant see that...

Bad o2 would ready wacky afrs. Post a log, that will help tremendously

here are 2 idle logs, cant really drive yet also changed o2 and no change to issues

doesnt seem like anything is oscillating wildly, but Im no expert. has your tuner looked at your logs? Might want to consider donating and going VIP, there are added benefits. Maybe one of the gurus can take a look and see something that I might not be seeing. @Code Monkey; @btstarcher; @Captain KR; @Justin@Freektune; @Lex; @Scare Dem; @PapaSmurf; @dale_gribble;

So you're having AFR issues and chose to post logs without AFR logged.

Interesting.

:D

A lot of unanswered variables, but seeing that MAF voltage, your vacuum does not seem that out of whack. I think your MAF cal is just a bit off.

I have donated, don't know if its a yearly thing, and I thought it was logging afr but I will redo it.

i just cant see why the ecu is demanding 800s for hpfp at idle

Is it commanding that?

Yes, its about right with the des. pressure.

why are you commanding 800psi at iddle ?

did you change MAP sensors during the building process?

Are you cold starting? When you crank up try and do the gas pedal trick so it's not cold starting. Probably why your FP's are around 800ish. My car also targets that HPFP Desired press. at some point during the cold start-to-normal-idle process. Your MAFv seems a little high for operating temp idle. My 3.5 idles at 1v or less. Yours is @ 1.23v. That may not seem like much, but that is going to be close to twice the amount of air flow between 1v and 1.23v. If the throttle plate is open any at all it could be a reason why your vacuum and mafv are the way it is.


Also, you may just want to monitor just about everything under the datalog list in your AP.

Looking more at your logs your spark advance is ALL over the place. At idle you should be around 10-11°. I hope for your sake that is a condition of another problem and not an out-of-time VVT.

First place I'd start is: double check your MAP and MAF calibrations in ATR. I would also comb over all the fueling and rpm targets. Let's rule out software first since it would be the easiest to fix.
Second Place I'd look is to put on the AP and scan for codes for good measure
Next place I'd look is at the MAF area - look for leaks between it and the turbo and the throttle body. That includes IC piping and also lines going to and from the EBCS - If you can boost leak test it with your favorite or available method
IF that didn't resolve any issues or nothing was found I'd look for leaks at the turbo both compressor and exhaust housing side
You may want to check all the electrical connections - I'd check MAF and TB and MAP and go from there
Only thing else I can suggest that my sidetracked ENM can muster would be to check VVT timing

Last thing - if none of that works - you selling any parts?

Fixed, turned out somehow the crank pulley spun alil and timing was off just enough to mix stuff up

You mean the crank pulley was off the 20 tooth mark of the crank position sensor?

Or when you timed everything and torqued it your timing was off?

In before reused friction washers/crank pulley bolt resulting in slipped timing.....

What I was thinking too... Even if you didnt do the 90* torque of the crank I feel like it wouldnt partially slip...

Or if you had the timing wrong from the beginning but with the cam locker and the tdc pin I dont see how you could have it wrong.