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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So does anyone have suggestions. Im sure I did something stupid. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score you gotta turn the key position to "ON" and then back off...back to "ON"... SEVERAL times before it will start. I did this like 8 times and even then it didnt start right away...had to crank it a bit. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I cranked it about 50 times the way your saying. I think I put it together wrong, do you have any other ideas. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score When you put it together will the plunger move freely and easily like the stock internals did because it real tight and kinda sticking, thats why I think I put it together wrong |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Take it all apart and start over.
__________________ In reality I love lenny |
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__________________ (RIP) 08' MS3---MODS:COBB AP- COBB SRI AND TIP- COBB RSB- COBB KNOB- CP-E TMIC- LIMITED EDITION HKS BOV- CORKSPORT DP AND TP- TRZ REARMOUNT- MD OCC- PTP IM COOLER KIT- COSWORTH BSD- EIBACH PROKIT- TWM SHIFTER BUSHINGS- JBR SHORT SHIFT KIT- 13' CWP MS3 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have three times but I cant get the piston back out it is stuck is it supposed to stick in the 18mm nut or should it come apart easily, maybe I jammed it in backwards. I thought I put it in right. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score bump for taking it apart. i also i had to physcially crank the car like 10x before enough pressure built up and the like. also make sure u reconnected all of your electrical harnesses. go over everything take a pict for us and report back
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT Black Mica #4126 KILLAH Built/SPEED PERF6RMANC3 (SP) 10.6:1 Pistons ~ SP 11mm H11 Head Studs ~ K1 rods ~ SP CNC Head Work ~ Crower 65lb Valve Springs ~ Fully Keyed/Pinned Motor ~ GTX35R w/Tial .82AR Hotside ~ JMF IM w/1000cc PI Injectors ~ SP 75mm TB ~ SP In-Tank FP w/Dual DW300's ~ AEM FPR ~ SP Custom PI Fuel kit ~ CPE 4" MAF ~ CPE SAFEseals ~ TR1035 FMIC ~ CPE Atmosphere DP/Ex Manifold/Oil/Water Lines ~ Tial MV-R EWG VTA'd ~ Denso ITV-24's ~ CPE Dual CBE ~ CPE BT TIP ~ CPE RMM ~ JBR TMM ~ JBR PMM ~ TTFMM ~ CPE RDM ~ Sonic Tuning CO's ~ LED Tails ~ Sonic Tuning HID's ~ Whiteline RSB ~ ACT 6 Puck w/unicorn dust First K04 in the 12's First MS6 in the 11's Certified RichTune E-Tuner |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mine acutally started right up.. Dude maybe you put the round peice that gows over the piston in backwards. Was the "big" part facing out and the little part facing in just like when you pulled out the old one? I got stcuck on this becuase the was the piston and the round thing where in the bag where backwards kinda misleading...
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i also got this wrong at first but i realized it when i couldent screw the plunger back into the pump so he def diddent do this.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT Black Mica #4126 KILLAH Built/SPEED PERF6RMANC3 (SP) 10.6:1 Pistons ~ SP 11mm H11 Head Studs ~ K1 rods ~ SP CNC Head Work ~ Crower 65lb Valve Springs ~ Fully Keyed/Pinned Motor ~ GTX35R w/Tial .82AR Hotside ~ JMF IM w/1000cc PI Injectors ~ SP 75mm TB ~ SP In-Tank FP w/Dual DW300's ~ AEM FPR ~ SP Custom PI Fuel kit ~ CPE 4" MAF ~ CPE SAFEseals ~ TR1035 FMIC ~ CPE Atmosphere DP/Ex Manifold/Oil/Water Lines ~ Tial MV-R EWG VTA'd ~ Denso ITV-24's ~ CPE Dual CBE ~ CPE BT TIP ~ CPE RMM ~ JBR TMM ~ JBR PMM ~ TTFMM ~ CPE RDM ~ Sonic Tuning CO's ~ LED Tails ~ Sonic Tuning HID's ~ Whiteline RSB ~ ACT 6 Puck w/unicorn dust First K04 in the 12's First MS6 in the 11's Certified RichTune E-Tuner | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I cycled the key a few times and it fired almost immediately.
__________________ In reality I love lenny |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score We hooked a dash hawk up and it showed the fuel pump psi at 57. We turned the ignition on and off several times, and there was no increase in pressure. We unhooked the coilpacks, started the car and the psi went to 61, then 64. Cranked it several times, the psi did not increase any more. Reconnected the coilpacks, and still the pressure did not increase. It seems for some reason like the fuel pressure is not high enough to start the engine. Is this possible?
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 LSM Should have gotten a speed6 2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT Black Mica [sold] Built motor, Etc. 383 hp 401 tq GTX2867R @ 25 psi |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score it may be a bad internal... and im not saying this to be funny considering yesterdays thread. these things can seize if the tolerances arent right. id take it apart one more time..... if you cant get it apart. i dont know what to say.... other than, get it out of your car and get another plan with a different pump. ive never heard of it seizing tho unless it had run for a minute. eh im in circles with this post but i'll still submit it |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i may need to send up a bat alert for mr johnathon martin....aka mrlilguy. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well we have come to the conclusion it is bad internals, I all ready called Ken he is taken care of me Does anyone know where the crankshaft position sensor is
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 LSM Should have gotten a speed6 2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT Black Mica [sold] Built motor, Etc. 383 hp 401 tq GTX2867R @ 25 psi |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score disregard the above post lol... thats the cam sensor |
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| Fux Wit It ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Li
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| Not Ranked : 0 score LOL yeah I would hope the crank sensor is near or on the crank randy
__________________ ![]() Carry on citizens.... [CENTER]Pump Gas Champ 10.9 @ 12810.6 @ 129 E85 (IC coupler popped) 10.7 @ 133 auto 1G DSM 2013 C6 GS FBO and alotta Nitrous |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OK the stock pump is back in and everything is hooked up, now we are getting a p0335(crankshaft postion sensor) and the fuel pump is not building pressure. Does anyone have ideas
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 LSM Should have gotten a speed6 2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT Black Mica [sold] Built motor, Etc. 383 hp 401 tq GTX2867R @ 25 psi |
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i got camshaft position sensor codes when that was loose and nobody knew where it was at the time. i was holding the baby and trying to be helpful, and knew i was wrong as i hit submit. i dont know about the crankshaft sensor.... is it one of the ones right around the pump? seems weird that it would be up there too. i doubt they were anywhere near the crank. im gonna go pop the hood....lol drove the gti today, and i need my fix anyway. | |
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__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 LSM Should have gotten a speed6 2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT Black Mica [sold] Built motor, Etc. 383 hp 401 tq GTX2867R @ 25 psi |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it was unplugged that would be the reason why the car wouldn't start..
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It is located near the crankshaft, its hard to say that is the problem. Hard to say that is the reason the car is not starting. We put the stock internals back in, and it still would not start. (yes, we primed it several times, enough to kill the battery) Clearly the problem is we can not build enough fuel pressure. I think the question is, can anyone think of another reason? I think the fuel pump recirculates inside itself when it reaches a certain pressure, could the fuel pump relay circut be messed up somehow?
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 LSM Should have gotten a speed6 2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT Black Mica [sold] Built motor, Etc. 383 hp 401 tq GTX2867R @ 25 psi |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Was the car running fine before the install?
__________________ 2008 MS3 Forge BPV, COBB SRI, AP ATR Stg 2+SF v107 FMIC, RPMC turbo inlet, Exhaust Depot DP, CP-E CBE, KMD internals, TT, DH, OF conversion, TRZ Poly mount, Exhaust Depot FMIC,TWM ss w/bushings, ITV22, AIS meth injection |
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--> So question One for me is, Does anyone know what pressure should be read before idle, can we assume if the fuel PSI is reading 50-60 when turning the car over means the pump could be the culprit? Or simply that's all it should have until we actually get the engine started.. We were certainly no where near the crankshaft sensor itself but from looking at a wot box install instructions, the harness the wires go through for the crankshaft sensor looks like it's right there near the pump. I think whatever is causing the P0335 code to throw could be stopping the car from starting. --> So question number two for me is, How could we test if the crankshaft sensor is working or not working. 7mile tested the fuses thoroughly so it would seem to be either a harness/connection or the sensor actually having a problem. Additionally, small vacuum tube coming off of the turbo inlet going to some type of sensor or electrical --- doohickey on/near the turbo was broke. Now basic logic dictates this has nothing to do with the car starting because... well I think we all kind of just assumed it doesn't.. --> Question three, could that tube be part of the issue for starting and can anyone confirm what is is exactly. I need to find a shop manual. Ken@Pg, if you happen to read over this, It looks like these internals were simply not machined correctly, The plunger would not move through the sleeve freely and it does not look like there's any type of damage or obstruction.. it's just a smidge too tight. I initially thought internals may have been installed wrong but after looking at it more closely, I don't think you can actually get the nut to thread if it's in backwards as was mentioned in a previous post. If Anyone has any other ideas I'm all ears, and again... Josh/7mile.. sorry this time around this whole thing = failed.. I'm more than happy to take another stab at it when we have more time.. just let me know when. It was great to meet both of you. -GG | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yes it was running great |
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Sorry, but i can't answer any of your other questions..
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score We are going to find out whats going on, one way or another.
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 LSM Should have gotten a speed6 2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT Black Mica [sold] Built motor, Etc. 383 hp 401 tq GTX2867R @ 25 psi |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 60psi is what the pump in the fuel tank is delivering. depending on how exactly the fuel injectors work (if they function like a diesel injector), 60psi might not be enough to even open them to inject fuel (no clue here - depends on what Mazda engineers wanted for limp home - if they even cared about limp home functionality) sounds to me like your CDHP isn't doing its job (aftermarket and stock) So did you install internals, then remove them and reinstall stock on the same pump or did you have a second pump that you installed internals on? Did you look closely at the camshaft pump lobes for damage? Pic for reference: |
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As far as I could tell the lobe looked fine. Oil was certainly being delivered to the spring/shaft as when we took it off the pump to put the OEM internals back in we made a bit of a mess. -GG | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score a crank sensor unplugged would not allow the car to start. if you're looking at the crank pulley, its the sensor about 2" Northwest of pulley. a cam sensor unplugged would not allow the car to start. there is one over the drivers side intake cam valve cover area. the VCTS sensor unplugged won't let the car start either. its located on the passanger side over the exhaust cam, iirc. hope this helps. the car would start, even with a seized pump, always. injectors will operate in limp mode at 60psi, but don't go into boost if you're using just an MBC. if you're using the stock boost solenoid, the car won't let you go into boost.
__________________ Black Mica '07 Mazdaspeed3 Mods:CP-E FMIC - ProtegeGarage Tubular Exhaust Manifold - TurboXS Hybrid BOV, Downpipe, and Custom Catted Racepipe - mrlilguyCDFP - ATP 3" Turbo Inlet - ATP Boost Cut Killer Module - CP-E Rear MM - WelderWerkz Short Shifter - AEM UEGO Wideband - ProSport Blue Boost/EGT/Oil Pressure Gauges - GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer - PimpWheels Black/Red Edition - Falken Azenis RT-615 - Yakima Roof Rack w/ Fairing Reppin' ProtegeGarage for life! |
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-GG | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if the pump was seized before even running the car it was installed wrong it needs to be inserted very carefully and precisely or it will jam the tolerances are just that tight. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are fouled?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This part leads me to believe he damaged the pump somehow installing the internals. But I'm guessing.
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So we really need to find a wiring diagram and understand how the crankshaft sensor wires run. I'm pretty sure the sensor itself is not going to be our issue because we just didn't go anywhere near it. wires from A - Z however could be an issue. -GG | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey just throwen this out there.. You did reinstall the fuse in the fuse box so the car would start rite?
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