Need help with DP install

[Fatguy729]

Ok, I spent about 5 hours at my buddy's shop today trying to install my DP. It is still sitting on his lift right now, half taken apart... Its a CNT catted DP. I had a few issues, including not having a O2 sensor socket (which I ended up buying). O2 sensors came out nicely, got the test pipe off, heat shields removed.... FUCK THE NUTS/STUDS THAT HOLD THE STOCK DP ON!!! I've only tried the first and what I thought would be easiest bolt...

Now, I was trying to get it off, and it was being a huge bitch, and I could not figure out how to get leverage on it. I was following Haltech's Cobb DP review and noticed he said it was cool to use an impact gun/wrench. so, I start backing the stud out (yes, the stud came with the nut).... and it gets to a point that seems like its moving freely. I get my hands on it, and cannot budge it. So I put the impact gun back to work.... still moving, but not backing out any more... WTF!?!?!?

It was time for him to close shop, I was fucking pissed to say the least! I don't know what the fuck to do to get that stud out, and from what I could see, I have no idea how the fuck to get to the rest of the nuts....it seems almost like there is a nut on the other side of the stud that is moving along with the stud!? here's a couple pics I snapped with my cell before I left.

[Ace Protege]

Just keep going. It's ok if the studs come out, and it's normal for it to get easy to turn and then hard again. I used an impact with a swivel on that particular one. Soak it in PB blaster if you want. also, remove the heatshields, it makes things a lot easier when you can see what you're doing.
and once you get the CNT one one start all the nuts/studs(not all the way, just get them started) and for the bottom two you need to tighten one a little, then tighten the other a little. go back and forth till you get them as tight as you can. you'll need a 14mm stubby open end wrench to get at the one. I ended up cutting a normal 14mm in half to make it easier. the top 3 are very straight forward, just tighten them normally.

[Fatguy729]

Thanks for your response, however, I did keep going, and going .... and going! The stud/nut got so hot from turning so much that a tiny lil bit of smoke came from the stud!... ANd I soaked the piss out of it with PB

[emag remrofni]

Threads are stripped.

[trf5000]

Yea man, I think you shit is stripped. Your gonna have to get that stud out and re-tap the hole.

[wolly6973]

Maybe it is just wedged in there. Get the rest of them off and see if it is still stuck.

Impact + Swivel socket is how I did all mine except for one which I had just used a breaker bar + swivel + extensions on.

Remove heatshields like Ace said, makes it TONS easier.

[Ace Protege]

Well it's gotta come out. lol
Is it just spinning? try removing the others and get the DP to wiggle. once you wiggle the DP it should fall out if it's un threaded all the way. Yeah, I remember the pain from doing this install. Just did one last week. Still have the busted knuckles. haha

[Fatguy729]

Thanks everyone, I hope its not stripped. Will update tomorrow. Thankfully I own my business so I can take as many days off as I want LOL

[silvapain]

They are M10x1.50 studs. I'd recommend replacing them; I had to replace three of the five that were damaged when doing mine.


Tapayommoma

[Fatguy729]

Quick question. I see some people will keep the same tune on their car to compare data. When I installed my fmic, I immediately reflashed to the ots fmic map. Should I try my current tune for a few miles? Or flash to a stage 2 map before starting it up?

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by silvapain They are M10x1.50 studs. I'd recommend replacing them; I had to replace three of the five that were damaged when doing mine. Tapayommoma

the cnt actually came with new bolts.... Not new studs/nuts.... Bolts. I was wondering if I should trust those, or reuse the stock (if they turn out to be ok when I'm done)

[manelscout4life]

I just reflashed after adding the dp. I just compared it with the new map on as well.

[iracer7]

Reading threads like this is why a corksport dp has been sitting in my closet for over a year lol

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 the cnt actually came with new bolts.... Not new studs/nuts.... Bolts. I was wondering if I should trust those, or reuse the stock (if they turn out to be ok when I'm done)

I'd use studs over bolts. There's not much room behind the outlet flange for the excess bolt length to go through.


Tapayommoma

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by iracer7 Reading threads like this is why a corksport dp has been sitting in my closet for over a year lol

yeah, this is the first part that has given me any kind of shit so far... At several points throughout the last 2 hours I was working on it, I said "I should have just bought a fucking test pipe"LOL. Fuck I have full confidence that I could do that in an hour or less. But the cnt was an awesome deal for 330 shipped w/OEM adapter.

[pearl_ms3]

I have done so many that i can take off the stock one in a couple hours. The trick is a combination of small/large extensions and swivels.

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[iracer7]

Well I've paid $150 for the dp and $110 for the test pipe. I don't have any special sockets or anything and I don't feel like buying all of them then get pissed off when something doesn't come out right. I emailed an exhaust shop and they told me to stop by but I haven't gone because it's about 30 minutes away...wish they would just give me a straight answer of whether they'll install it or not.

[mazdaspdmike]

Originally Posted by iracer7 Well I've paid $150 for the dp and $110 for the test pipe. I don't have any special sockets or anything and I don't feel like buying all of them then get pissed off when something doesn't come out right. I emailed an exhaust shop and they told me to stop by but I haven't gone because it's about 30 minutes away...wish they would just give me a straight answer of whether they'll install it or not.

Just find any shop that does installs on anything, not specifically exhaust because it's not like they're fabricating anything and ask if they'll do it if you're not confident in doing it yourself. If you have a few buds who can turn a wrench it helps. Ace Protege and I have done two on my car alone and I've done another on another members' car. I haven't heard of many guys having issues with the studs, but I also never used an impact gun on the studs... always a ratchet and breaker bar so that I could judge better what resistance it was giving me and whether or not I should back it in or keep going.

Like Ace said, we took off my heat shielding on top and if you recall in my PM I also mentioned that you should do that. It opens it up a lot and gives you more room to see what's going down.

Most of the guys in here have already offered the advice I'd give you, and Ace pretty much gave it word for word because he was the friend helping me install both of mine. There's no real trick to it and these cars are finicky, no one is just like another. Keep at it, replace the studs if you need to, and in the end you should be happy! I know I am!

[iracer7]

Originally Posted by mazdaspdmike Just find any shop that does installs on anything, not specifically exhaust because it's not like they're fabricating anything and ask if they'll do it if you're not confident in doing it yourself. If you have a few buds who can turn a wrench it helps. Ace Protege and I have done two on my car alone and I've done another on another members' car. I haven't heard of many guys having issues with the studs, but I also never used an impact gun on the studs... always a ratchet and breaker bar so that I could judge better what resistance it was giving me and whether or not I should back it in or keep going.

Has to do with them being afraid deleting a catalytic converter....$50,000 fine or something like that. I could tell them it's a race car and not for street use, but they would have to buy into that.

[Fatguy729]

Yeah I pmed you earlier when I made the thread... I was just trying to get a quick response before I go back at it tomorrow. I left really pissed off, screaming and throwing shit

Edit... A good exhaust shop USUALLY has a paper you have to sign saying your car is for offroad use only. Along with some legal shit saying you are responsible for any negative shit from the EPA. Honestly, unless you post in VIP, the EPA could google downpipe, and probably nail thousands of people on many forums... Just saying

[mazdaspdmike]

Originally Posted by iracer7 Has to do with them being afraid deleting a catalytic converter....$50,000 fine or something like that. I could tell them it's a race car and not for street use, but they would have to buy into that.

Tell them you're building it for track use, its your word against theirs and you're the customer, see what they say.

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 Yeah I pmed you earlier when I made the thread... I was just trying to get a quick response before I go back at it tomorrow. I left really pissed off, screaming and throwing shit Edit... A good exhaust shop USUALLY has a paper you have to sign saying your car is for offroad use only. Along with some legal shit saying you are responsible for any negative shit from the EPA. Honestly, unless you post in VIP, the EPA could google downpipe, and probably nail thousands of people on many forums... Just saying

Yeah... everything in here is what I'd offer as advice, so... good luck I suppose. If you have any other issues let me know and just post it up in here, we're here to help ya mang!

Yeah, unless you're in Cali or other states that really enforce it, they're not gonna give a shit, lol.

[Fatguy729]

ok, so I ran into a major issue... had one of the bolts break off in the manifold (the bolt that was previously mentioned. I got the rest down good and it SEEMS there aren't any leaks.


Now for the seriously major issue....hopefully not

When I finished up the install, I decided to check my oil. What do you know, the handle breaks off the top of the dipstick. It won't go back on without falling down the tube. So, my mechanic friend who let me use his lift says "oh that'll be fine till you get another one!"....

So I drove around for about 35 miles, no issues. I stopped for gas and popped the hood, everything looked great. I decided to do some WOT logs on my way to work cuz I wanted to see if my stock fuel pump would hold up to the stage tune. I will have those later, cuz I'm at work with no AP Manager.

After doing 4 pulls, I come up to a light and my hood is smoking.... WTF? I look under the hood and there is oil fucking everywhere. It's running fine, I got nothing above .3 knock during my pulls... Only thing was I was getting hesitation before boost kicks in.


Question is.... is our oil under alot of pressure during boost? Cuz that was a fucking ridiculous amount of oil, but it seems like it all originated from the dipstick area. I bought some vaccuum caps and put one on there.... WTF?


Here's pics of the oil....







Here's my dumbass mistake of torqing the bolt too hard....

[wolly6973]

People running higher boost have problems popping their dipsticks out and spray oil like you did. I imagine with no cap on there you have the same problem.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by wolly6973 People running higher boost have problems popping their dipsticks out and spray oil like you did. I imagine with no cap on there you have the same problem.

Thank god... I was freaking the fuck out, remembering all the blown engine threads I've seen. I know it wasn't anything serious like that, but THAT WAS ALOT OF OIL to be coming out of the dipstick!

[wolly6973]

Yeah, just make sure you fill it back up!

[Fatguy729]

I bought a quart of Royal Purple when I bought the vaccuum caps!

[manelscout4life]

how many psi were you running for that to happen.

[rfinkle2]

Best of luck Fatguy.

Days like this always feel better in the morning.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by manelscout4life how many psi were you running for that to happen.

OTS stage 2 FMIC map (gen 1 load based). I haven't looked at my logs... I was monitoring KR and AFR during my first WOT pulls. Like I said, I had about 35-40 miles on the tune/DP.


After calming down and thinking about it, I bet my engine/turbo was oil starved when all that oil was spraying out of my shit like a fucking fountain!

[JS + MS3]

Good luck man

[Fatguy729]

oh and I didn't take a pic of the oil all over my hood ducting.... looks like my engine

[Fatguy729]

good news... found a cheap dipstick 14.50 ... might see if the dealership has one I can just go pick it up. They would probably have to order it anyways.

Mazda Parts Center - Call (800) 650-4896 for up to 30% Off on Genuine Mazda Parts and Accessories

Edit : Just choose the car (mazda 3) and type dipstick in the keyword search.

[Fatguy729]

Well, Things actually look decent. I have high BAT's Cuz I literally drove around town for 35 miles to settle the trims, than do some logs. For some reason I didn't have WGDC on the log list, probably cuz I was doing MAF cal runs the last time I was logging.

datalogs 2-5 are with no dipstick, and 6 is with the vaccuum cap in place. I'm actually relatively happy with the logs considering no KR and its doing decent in the high BAT range.


**EDIT: most are 4th gear pulls, one is a 3-4 gear pull, i think 2 of them are 3rd gear pulls... I KNOW number 6 was a 3rd gear pull


BUT internals will have to be ordered within the next couple weeks.


What is a good thing to look at to see if I have a exhaust leak (datalog wise)

[Fatguy729]

Sorry I had no time to chop them up for your viewing pleasure

[emag remrofni]

I had to lol @ the oil pic. Much fail in this install.

Try and keep out of WOT till you get internals.

[atvfreek]

I laughed pretty hard at the oil pics myself.... Your logs do look pretty good, I would do a MAF recal to get your LTFT a little closer. Also to monitor the exhaust leak, your AFR's and LTFT will usually get out of whack, and you'll probably hear it when it starts to leak.

[Fatguy729]

I hope I can someday laugh at todays events. I have an excuse to get a new manifold now. Maybe I'll laugh after that. I feel like a huge tard that's for sure. And yes, as I like to say, the fail is strong with thus one! I can't believe I had to start this fail thread

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 I hope I can someday laugh at todays events. I have an excuse to get a new manifold now. Maybe I'll laugh after that. I feel like a huge tard that's for sure. And yes, as I like to say, the fail is strong with thus one! I can't believe I had to start this fail thread

Hey shit happens man. These downpipe bolts are a PITA. Hard to get to and frozen solid. At least your o2 sensors came out without fail.

[Z-Indy]

Hahaha! That's a mess man!

Glad that you finally got it worked out.

[dougefresh_]

Damn dude, that's some serious frustrations. I've been there myself, but over other shit, lol. Glad you got it sorted. I was lucky w/ my DP as we just took off my DNP mani (had put anti-sieze on everything), and that popped right out. Then took the hood off and some DP brackets, and snaked her out the top.

So, one quart topped you off? If so, that's not too bad at all. Looks like you're getting some spike early on... may need to tweak your wgdc down a bit in that area. GL