Need help with DP install

[dizzydtrain]

haha glad it's working out for you now. I am doing my dp install this Sunday with my friends help at his shop so I will be using a lift and air tools. Hopefully I will have more luck with my car especially since it's less than a year old.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ Damn dude, that's some serious frustrations. I've been there myself, but over other shit, lol. Glad you got it sorted. I was lucky w/ my DP as we just took off my DNP mani (had put anti-sieze on everything), and that popped right out. Then took the hood off and some DP brackets, and snaked her out the top. So, one quart topped you off? If so, that's not too bad at all. Looks like you're getting some spike early on... may need to tweak your wgdc down a bit in that area. GL

Well, I didn't have a dip stick when I was at advanced auto and decided to pour it all in just in case. But I actually stuck what was left of the broken one when I got home, and it was actually over filled a lil bit.... Might as well add to the fail for the day, right?! Oh yeah... Plus I was so pissed I forgot to buy some degreaser which was obviously called for!

[Ace Protege]

wow. This thread went to shit. Take your time, think about what you're doing, and think about it again. Those are some things you must do when doing an install on your car. and FYI, that bolt you broke off is into your turbo, not the manifold.

[anthony8488]

I wish I had a impact gun for when i installed my DP

My biggest issue was finding that magic combination of extentions and universal with the socket on one bolt

best thing though is your finished Congrats!

[Fatguy729]

I will offer some knowledge instead of fail real quick... After cursing at the bottom 2 OEM nuts for the dp, I discovered some pb blaster and the locking nuts that came with the cnt dp are the best combo. I was able to hand tighten the new, not rusted nuts on ALMOST all the way by hand, and it took me maybe 10 1/8th turns to put 40-50 pounds torque with the stubby!

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 Well, I didn't have a dip stick when I was at advanced auto and decided to pour it all in just in case. But I actually stuck what was left of the broken one when I got home, and it was actually over filled a lil bit.... Might as well add to the fail for the day, right?! Oh yeah... Plus I was so pissed I forgot to buy some degreaser which was obviously called for!

A little over won't kill you, that's good news. You lost less than a quart, so no worries. I've been blowing my dipstick every time I go wot since going BT, even if it's just for one gear. Excessive crankcase pressure. After talking to a bunch of people, I'm copying Silver Demon's set up. Post #395 has a diagram of it (though he ditched the breather back to the intake as it didn't help, and runs a filter on it, which is my current set up). Parts list w/ linkies are in post #386 on the same page. In this thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...8/index10.html
I assume you have an OCC?

Before you do this, you could do what Skates did... He just drilled out the tiny 1/8" holes in his valve cover baffle, and runs a filter on it vta and has NP. Everyone that goes BT has this issue, and since you're pushing 21 psi, you may need to check it out as well. I'd buy an OEM dipstick and see if it holds okay. If it pops out after 1 run, address it w/ one of the two methods. Here is a pic of the holes Skates drilled (free to do... I would do this, but I work in my car outside w/ shit blowing around and trees and don't want to risk getting something in there:



He drilled those 6 holes out larger and he's fine.

[Fatguy729]

I do not have an occ. I was hoping my fp would hold up so I could get the Matt Damond kit next week, but I'll have to order internals asap. If they're in stock. Only thing I don't understand is why I'm hitting good afr with no knock with 1300 psi? I was wondering if this had something to do with the new ap update that states it fixed a fuel pressure issue?

However, if I have the issue with the new dipstick, I may see if this vacuum cap holds, and just keep the dipstick in my hatch. I used a 3/8"cap, it was noticeably too small, but it was easily worked on and held fine during 2 WOT runs. It didn't even back off slightly.

[Fatguy729]

So WTF? 3 logs from today... I haven't done a MAF cal yet.... Calculated load is lower, only 1 log shows low DIFP, BUT still no KR, AFR is fine, WGDC is great... this doesn't make sense to me unless the new Cobb update shows drastically different DIFP numbers that are different from the previously known standard.


BTW, I am killing myself listening for an exhaust leak.... How the fuck do you determine exhaust leak sound from turbo sounds?

[mazdaspdmike]

interesting. i think im going to aim for a tune under 20psi. lol

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 BTW, I am killing myself listening for an exhaust leak.... How the fuck do you determine exhaust leak sound from turbo sounds?

Use the paper trick. take a piece of paper and hold it against every exhaust joint. If the paper flaps around, you have an exhaust leak there.

[Fatguy729]

Well, I'm gonna search, but how hard is it to get the turbo off... Compared to, lets say a dp install LOL? I need to get that bolt out and retap that hole

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by silvapain They are M10x1.50 studs. I'd recommend replacing them; I had to replace three of the five that were damaged when doing mine. Tapayommoma

every time you remove a DP you need to replace studs and nuts otherwise they get so damaged during removal pray you DONT get them back on because a second removal on re used studs ........ living nightmare.

the nuts for sure have to be replaced they get completely mangled during removal

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE every time you remove a DP you need to replace studs and nuts otherwise they get so damaged during removal pray you DONT get them back on because a second removal on re used studs ........ living nightmare. the nuts for sure have to be replaced they get completely mangled during removal

well, only the one stud gave me shit. The other studs stayed on the turbo and were not damaged... or I wouldn't have been able to hand-tighten the new nuts. I tried to use a bolt that came with the DP, which wasn't hardened, and I torqued it WAY too much... Broke off in deh tarboz.

I'm simply wondering if anyone has taken their turbo off, and how much of a PITA that is gonna be! I'm reading people's BT builds, but most don't mention taking the stocker off!

[silvapain]

You start with removing the DP, then additionally disconnect the WGA, coolant, and oil lines along with the TIP. Then it's four studs just like the DP ones.


Tapayommoma

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 well, only the one stud gave me shit. The other studs stayed on the turbo and were not damaged... or I wouldn't have been able to hand-tighten the new nuts. I tried to use a bolt that came with the DP, which wasn't hardened, and I torqued it WAY too much... Broke off in deh tarboz. I'm simply wondering if anyone has taken their turbo off, and how much of a PITA that is gonna be! I'm reading people's BT builds, but most don't mention taking the stocker off!

i have bt and have removed stock turbo several times and each time replaced nuts, the ones i neglected and got damaged on removal then in turn damaged studs when reusing the nuts. it sucks balls trust me. i used a like 36" extension with an impact swivel(not a gun just swivel) and a deep wall 14mm

IMO taking off downpipe is worse then turbo removal except the oil feed line i HATE connecting that ...

[Fatguy729]

This is quoting the manual, and makes 0 sense to me... It doesn't mention anything about the exhause mani or WGA. It sounds like the stock turbo can come out from the bottom?


Turbocharger Removal Note
1. Remove the TWC. (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVALIINSTALLATION[L3 WITH TC].)
2. Disconnect the rear H02S
3. Remove the insulator (Exhaust manifold upper side). (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVALI
INSTALLATION[L3 WITH TC].)
4. Set the generator duct out of the way. (See 01-17B-6 GEf\IERATOR REMOVALIINSTALLATION[L3 WITH TC).)
5. Remove the insulator (Exhaust manifold lower side). (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL/
INSTALLATIOI\J[L3 WITH TC).)
6. Remove the insulator (WU-TWC top side). (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVALIINSTALLATION[L3 WITH TC).)
7. Remove the front H02S. (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVALIINSTALLATION[L3 WITH TC).)
8. Remove the WU-TWC. (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVALIINSTALLATION[L3 WITH TC).)
9. Remove the oil pipe and water pipe.
1O. Remove the turbocharger.


Turbocharger Installation Note
1. Install the turbocharger.
Tightening torque 38-51 N·m {3.9-5.2 kgf.m, 29-37 ft·lbf}
2. Install the WU-TWC. (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAUINSTALLATION[L3 WITH
TC].)
3. Install the front H02S. (See 01-15B-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REI\I10VAL/II\lSTALLATION[L3 WITH TC].)
4. Tight the water pipe installation bolt while the stopper of the water pipe is faced to the tu rbocharger.
5. Install the water pipes and, insert the water hose until it reaches the stopper.


Edit: I'm guessing that's why the say to remove the guard on the alternator? BTW..... TWC=DP HO2S= O2 sensors generator duct=alternator bracket


Edit AGAIN: Nevermind, figured it out!!!

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Fatguy, fuck that dude. Taking the turbo off is miserable!

Assuming that there is room (I'm not in front of my DP, but I think that there should bs room), go to sears and pick up a stud remover ratchet attachment for like $25. It is 2 cylinders that press together as you turn the wrench. You absolutely can get the stud out if you can get this bitch in there... Work fast (not that it is easy to move a hot DP) and get to the bitch why'll everything is still hot, and it will bs easier.

I'm on my phone, so I'm not gonna post a link, but I have a pic of the stud remover on one of the last pages of "cpe side mounts released" thread.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Custom Performance Engineering™ Side Mounts are RELEASED

Check out the last post... This thing is great if u can get it in there!

[Fatguy729]

I really don't think there will be room... I'm on my phone too. I'll check out the link later

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Ok, so I just checked out your pictures, and it looks like the one giving you problems is the upper rear. If that is the case, assuming the ex mani is not in the way, the stud remover should work.

[Nitr0EngiE]

to remove manifold you gotta remove the supports for turbo to move it down low enough to clear the studs on the turbo turbine inlet. which you will have to unhook the oil return to lower it if you do this you will have direct access to entire side of turbo and you can leave all coolant lines and oil feed connected

then temporarily put the two bolts that hold turbo on bracket to the engine back to support thr turbo while you wrench it, and this requires 2 people btw, to move turbo and position it while you unhook it. and someone above to pull mani off.

[Fatguy729]

ugh, FML.

[SleeperHatch]

Looked at your logs...tune down the boost and you might be fine without a fuel pump or internals your hitting 19-20psi and your FP is lower than it should be tune down to 17-18 and do a log and see how its holding. I was lucky with the bolts on my downpipe I didn't even need PB Blaster, just some good ole' redneck strength and a wrench.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by SuperSpeed3 Looked at your logs...tune down the boost and you might be fine without a fuel pump or internals your hitting 19-20psi and your FP is lower than it should be tune down to 17-18 and do a log and see how its holding. I was lucky with the bolts on my downpipe I didn't even need PB Blaster, just some good ole' redneck strength and a wrench.

Well, It's a load tune, so turning down boost is a lil more difficult. I'm kinda worried that my AFR's aren't actually where they say they are, with my DP leaking. I tried to do a MAF cal, and my trims look actually worse.


This has just altogether sucked balls, and I'm afraid to drive my car at WOT. Even when I get my internals, I think the stupid DP is leaking, so I need to fix it.... WHich seems as if it will suck even bigger balls!