New Eagle Rods for MZR DISI engines!

[R.MS3]

Alright... I'm thinking about a rebuild and I'm researching options for now. Someone posted about these new Eagle rods that are coming out so i tried to get more info from them.

Looks a good damn deal once they're ready:

Since they are new we do not have any feedback for that specific application to relay to you. However, those rods are produced with the same material and design as all of our other 4 cylinder rods so we can establish a pretty good estimate. A very safe and conservative estimate would be 900 hp. We have seen other 4 cylinder engines using our rods past 1100, so I think 900 is a safe estimate. They will be ready for sale within a few weeks. Pricing is $427 per set (suggested retail). There are two part numbers depending on what pin size you need. If you need a 22mm (.866" pin) use part number CRS5927M13D. If you need a 22.5mm (.886") pin, use part number CRS5927M23D.

[jracer]

i saw those rods at the PRI show in orlando.. they look nice..

YouTube - Connecting rods for Mazda MZR from Eagle Specialty Products ID10289

YouTube - Connecting rods for Mazda MZR from Eagle Specialty Products ID10289

[Lex]

Guys who install the bottom shelf (cheaper) rods. Take these to machine shop and make sure the big ends and the small ends are within spec. I installed these kind of rods before and their machining from the factory is sometimes not the greatest.

[jracer]

i was thinking the K1 rods or maybe these for my build..
my goal is like 350-400 hp.. you think they will be ok ?

[Alpha]

Unlike choosing a turbo, it's always better to build a bottom end to handle DOUBLE what you want at that range. Do it right, do it once, and it'll be cheaper, better, safer, and more fun in the end. Trust me.

A few hundred dollars more now, or thousands later when you find out if they were "OK" the hard way.

[phate]

Originally Posted by Lex Guys who install the bottom shelf (cheaper) rods. Take these to machine shop and make sure the big ends and the small ends are within spec. I installed these kind of rods before and their machining from the factory is sometimes not the greatest.

True, offshore rods may need the machine shop to resize them.

Originally Posted by Alpha Unlike choosing a turbo, it's always better to build a bottom end to handle DOUBLE what you want at that range. Do it right, do it once, and it'll be cheaper, better, safer, and more fun in the end. Trust me. A few hundred dollars more now, or thousands later when you find out if they were "OK" the hard way.

Are you kidding? For offshore rods, Eagles are very, very good. The rods they make for domestics (4340 forged H-Beams) have been proven to 1700+hp in a blown V8. I have no doubt the same craftsmanship extends to rods for imports and other 4 cylinder cars. If rods fail, its usually due to other parts failing, or a shitty tune, first. $430 + $100 at the machine shop vs $900 for a set that might hold more. I know what I'm choosing.

Build it "right", and you don't need the most expensive parts. Stock Cleveland rods (with aftermarket bolts) have been proven to live at over 9000rpm and 600+hp and they were cast.

[R.MS3]

$370 shipped... at least they look beefier than k1 rods. Model# is not the same as the two on the original post, MZR ca only be our Turbo engines right?

Eagle Rods Mazda MZR 2.3L CRS5927M3D - eBay (item 230563336858 end time Mar-13-11 1711 PDT)

[phate]

Originally Posted by R.MS3 $370 shipped... at least they look beefier than k1 rods. Model# is not the same as the two on the original post, MZR ca only be our Turbo engines right? Eagle Rods Mazda MZR 2.3L CRS5927M3D - eBay (item 230563336858 end time Mar-13-11 1711 PDT)

My mind...is blown. (If that's the right part.)

*and that company offers free ground shipping.

[FamiliaGT]

Ive heard people having issues with Eagle rods before, but personally, Im using a set of their H beams in my forged 323 build, and they have yet to let me down. Not yet making any crazy power, but for what I am doing, they have shown no problems. I just took them to a machine shop, had the spec's checked out and balanced (All where correctly machined), and even before balancing, they where very very close to each other.

Just my $.02

[R.MS3]

Yes, the best bet with these cheaper rods is to indeed bring to a machinist and have them compare to "spec". Some AMS guys run these on their Evo's that are north of 600whp.

So in short, the Ebay rods are the right ones but you should give them out to a machinist before putting it in the car.

[jracer]

i am looking at th eagle rods for my build..
i have a few friends that use them in there cars with 400-500 hp (4 -cylinders turbo) with no problems..

[jracer]

eagle rods = 580 grams
K1 rods = 555 grams
does heavier = stronger ?? i know its a very small difference...just asking..

[Tokay444]

No. Design = strength.

[holeinmypocket]

Originally Posted by jracer eagle rods = 580 grams K1 rods = 555 grams does heavier = stronger ?? i know its a very small difference...just asking..

K1 = 555 grams

Eagle Rods = 580 grams

Pauters = 644 grams

Does anyone know how much a set of carillo SA's weigh just for comparison?

JIMMYMAC I know you have a set of carillos...where are you?

[zx2man]

Well I dont know this subject matter too well, but I have heard of Eagle rods for long time, and seen dsm,evo,dodge srt4,honda guys run em and they seem to hold up very well. If people are correct in terms of spending hundred or so dollars for machine work, then they will be fine...shit..thats awesome fuckin deal.

To the engine know it alls out there, what would be the best piston suited for this rod? High strengh and no piston slap.

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by holeinmypocket K1 = 555 grams Eagle Rods = 580 grams Pauters = 644 grams Does anyone know how much a set of carillo SA's weigh just for comparison? JIMMYMAC I know you have a set of carillos...where are you?

Resurection bump for Carrillo weight?

I'm considering a nice bottom end build and 30+ psi.

[Tech/Sales@EM]

I have pricing for all of the above if your interested PM me.

K1 = 555 grams

Eagle Rods = 580 grams

Pauters = 644 grams

Carillo = SA 543
H 549-549 Depending on Options

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM I have pricing for all of the above if your interested PM me. K1 = 555 grams Eagle Rods = 580 grams Pauters = 644 grams Carillo = SA 543 H 549-549 Depending on Options

Awesome! PM comin your way!

[SSinstaller]

Damn, the pauter rods are heavy. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside..

[Alpha]

Carrillo H beams are stronger than the SA's right?

[Tech/Sales@EM]

Originally Posted by Alpha Carrillo H beams are stronger than the SA's right?

yesir

Originally Posted by Alpha Awesome! PM comin your way!

replied with a novel

I have pictures I can send you of this type of stuff. Send me your email addy

[Nitr0EngiE]

the pauter being heavier means they are stronger and you have to account they are chromolly not steel so the material weighs less yet the rod still weighs more so the pauter are considerably stronger more weight/mass in material and stronger material

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE the pauter being heavier means they are stronger and you have to account they are chromolly not steel so the material weighs less yet the rod still weighs more so the pauter are considerably stronger more weight/mass in material and stronger material

I hear that... Probably overkill for most as I'm just looking for 500-600 AWHP and 700-800 HP strength so the SAs are lighter for my goals it seems.

[pinkcheese]

I run eagle rods in my current build and have had no issues with them. Checked for the proper dimensions myself to verify and they were spot on. Glad to see they finally came out for the DISI block I am going to consider these for my new DISI engine build over the CP rods. Especially sense they are offering different pin Dia.

[06Speed6]

The carrillo pro-h rods are supposed to be unbreakble because the crank will break before the rod does, its rated at 2500-3000hp.

And wtf is the difference between the "chromolly" steel in the Pauter rod and the 4340 steel in the Carrillo rod? Nothing its the exact same thing. The Pauter rod has more material because it is either a lower quality material or the design requires more material than other designs. Trust me, they didnt just throw in an extra 100g of material in their rods, as compaired to a 2500+hp rated Carrillo, because their design and materials are so badass and you cant have too much of a good thing.

[Tech/Sales@EM]

Originally Posted by pinkcheese I run eagle rods in my current build and have had no issues with them. Checked for the proper dimensions myself to verify and they were spot on. Glad to see they finally came out for the DISI block I am going to consider these for my new DISI engine build over the CP rods. Especially sense they are offering different pin Dia.

Carillo and Eagle offer rods for both 22.00mm and 22.5mm wrist pins

[dougefresh_]

Cool, good info in here. Wish I was visiting the thread a year from now :/

[Tech/Sales@EM]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 The carrillo pro-h rods are supposed to be unbreakble because the crank will break before the rod does, its rated at 2500-3000hp. And wtf is the difference between the "chromolly" steel in the Pauter rod and the 4340 steel in the Carrillo rod? Nothing its the exact same thing. The Pauter rod has more material because it is either a lower quality material or the design requires more material than other designs. Trust me, they didnt just throw in an extra 100g of material in their rods, as compaired to a 2500+hp rated Carrillo, because their design and materials are so badass and you cant have too much of a good thing.

Exactly the weight is competently irrelevant. All it does is prove that they had to add more weight to the rod to achieve a higher strength. Yes they are strong and priced competitively but if your looking for a top notch rod their are better solutions. Arrow and Carillo come to mind.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 The carrillo pro-h rods are supposed to be unbreakble because the crank will break before the rod does, its rated at 2500-3000hp. And wtf is the difference between the "chromolly" steel in the Pauter rod and the 4340 steel in the Carrillo rod? Nothing its the exact same thing. The Pauter rod has more material because it is either a lower quality material or the design requires more material than other designs. Trust me, they didnt just throw in an extra 100g of material in their rods, as compaired to a 2500+hp rated Carrillo, because their design and materials are so badass and you cant have too much of a good thing.

im not an engineer and i dont know if 4340 steel IS another name for chromolly. if it aint then chromolly should be lighter and stronger and therfore just plain stronger and when these companies made rods thay are not all shooting for the same HP rating so who are you to say they put more material due to lack of structural strength in the design.

and from most experiences you get what you pay for. and im comparing pauter to eagle or k1 and they are hands down seem stronger..... now carillo i have no idea..

someone with some extra cash should squash this squabble round up 1 or 2 of each rod and put them under a strong enough press and maybe we can see which ones crack or bend first.

and arent the eagle rods casted ? where as pauter is billet and machined from one piece which would make them stronger period even if they were the same material? casting allows for weak spots on the surface or maybe even pockets ? I would just fear they cracking apart due to structural weakness in material. something one piece would bend before it cracks and breaks off like my factory rods just simply disintegrated because it was casted.

[kmac]

Originally Posted by jracer i am looking at th eagle rods for my build.. i have a few friends that use them in there cars with 400-500 hp (4 -cylinders turbo) with no problems..

If I made 500+ hp on stock rods and hardware I'm sure they will be fine with machining.

[Tokay444]

Nitro, if you're talking about the stock rods, they're not cast.
And here's a small lesson for some people about design vs strength.
Take a round bar. A solid round bar. Test it's flexibility and strength by bending it until it breaks. Now take that exact same material, same length, and machine a precision hole right through the centre, concentric to the outer diametre.
That rod with the hole will now be lighter(a lot lighter) and much much more resistant to bending and breaking.

[troubled81]

Just to make this more difficult to choose K1 offers both 22 and 22.5 as well.

Also, the machine shop that did most of the work on my motor suggested that I shy away from Eagle rods. The reason he stated was that my motor wasn't a drag strip only piece. In his experience eagle stuff would hold up ok in a drag race style of use (easy life, followed with 11seconds of stress and then back to easy) but any form of racing were the motor was stressed continually almost always resulted in failure (this was his experience not mine, I haven't used them so I don't know)

I ended up going with the K1 rods (as he has had good luck with them outside of drag racing, mind you in V8 stuff) for 20 dollars more than the eagles and CP piston which fit without having to bend the oil jets. Over all I feel that this setup gave me the strongest motor to dollar ratio.

[Mizzle]

I'm just curious..
If there's a block making 500whp on a stock bottom end, why do we need rods again?

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by Mizzle I'm just curious.. If there's a block making 500whp on a stock bottom end, why do we need rods again?

Because we're not breaking blocks... We're breaking rods. They've always been our weak link.

[rigor]

eagles will be more than fine

[Tokay444]

That stock blocked 500whp motor is using stock rods.
They ARE NOT the weak link.
The weak link is the tune, and direct injection fuel flow limitations.
Again, NOT the rods.

No one has bent or broken a stock rod from too much power (yet).
It's always been a hick up in the tune or something else mechanically going wrong that's done it.

[troubled81]

would love to know why mine did a rod in on a stock tune.....

[Tokay444]

Because the stock tune has flaws.
It certainly wasn't from too much power.

Was it cylinder #3?

[pinkcheese]

Honestly I can say that on daily stressing an engine on eagle Rods I have had no issues. Been going almost 20k miles now Street and track miles and I have even pulled the block out several times during and inspected the rods visually and nothing was wrong with them. They are holding up well. Something I suggest to people which I didn't mention before is check the rod bolt material, I ugraded mine to ARP 3/8th 2000 series from what came with them which was a lesser grade, Quick $40 upgrade for more piece of mind.

I've knocked quite a bit during tuning a few times due to mechanical error including a 10PSI overboost one time and the rods were still holding up no bends flawless compression and leak down tests. This is just a testiment to how well these rods are holding up. Although I could imagine a stronger rod would offer more protection against knock in V8's especially an old time machinest who prolly is using a carb where knock is more susceptible.

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 That stock blocked 500whp motor is using stock rods. They ARE NOT the weak link. The weak link is the tune, and direct injection fuel flow limitations. Again, NOT the rods. No one has bent or broken a stock rod from too much power (yet). It's always been a hick up in the tune or something else mechanically going wrong that's done it.

Right, but in terms of our rotating assemblies/blocks... The rods are always the first to go IF a tuning or fueling issue arises.