![]() | ![]() |
![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() |
|
| |||||||
| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
|
Welcome to Mazdaspeed Forums . You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. *When you join MSF as a registered user, there will be No Ads. *Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum *Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements. *Registered members also get access to the live chat box! |
![]() |
| | | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
![]() | | #41 | ![]() |
| jbr makes fall-a-parts. ![]() Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Cambridge Ontario Canada
Posts: 13,163
(View Stats)
iTrader: (11)
Rep Power: 13536 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 25,744
Thanked 26,388 Times in 7,871 Posts
Groans: 793
Groaned at 496 Times in 321 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score If something is going to go from too much power on a very solid tune, with nothing going wrong, just too much power, it'll like be in the form of lifting the head.
__________________ ![]() ![]() Inb4 85% silicone core. It's better than aluminum. What's you buddy's ex wife trap? I <3 SP63, but that port job though... "The coolant must be evaporating." Bye Felicia "Exclusivity" - CP-enis Demodded. The Seals Last edited by Tokay444; 01-16-2012 at 11:54 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
| | |
![]() | | #42 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,711
(View Stats)
iTrader: (18)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 5,256
Thanked 2,986 Times in 1,411 Posts
Groans: 24
Groaned at 109 Times in 61 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
Forged rods will take a HELL of a lot more abuse and sustain more room for error than our factory rods. If that were true there wouldn't be aftermarket internals lol Every popped motor, regardless of what caused it to go, has resulted in a bent/broken rod because it's the weakest rotating part we have from the factory. What are you trying to prove?
__________________ PERM'D/FORGED - EFR 7163 Street Sleeper ![]() | |
| | |
![]() | | #43 | ![]() |
| jbr makes fall-a-parts. ![]() Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Cambridge Ontario Canada
Posts: 13,163
(View Stats)
iTrader: (11)
Rep Power: 13536 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 25,744
Thanked 26,388 Times in 7,871 Posts
Groans: 793
Groaned at 496 Times in 321 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score That our rods aren't as weak as you're making them out to be. A beefed up rod will put up with a little more abuse, but it's not a safety net for a bad tune. You're still gonna fuck your couch if you mess up your tune.
__________________ ![]() ![]() Inb4 85% silicone core. It's better than aluminum. What's you buddy's ex wife trap? I <3 SP63, but that port job though... "The coolant must be evaporating." Bye Felicia "Exclusivity" - CP-enis Demodded. The Seals |
| | |
![]() | | #44 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,711
(View Stats)
iTrader: (18)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 5,256
Thanked 2,986 Times in 1,411 Posts
Groans: 24
Groaned at 109 Times in 61 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
I'm just saying that rods are usually the first to let go in most situations and that upgraded rods offer the most "Insurance" benefits among any other internal part. (Crank, pistons, etc)
__________________ PERM'D/FORGED - EFR 7163 Street Sleeper ![]() | |
| | |
![]() | | #45 | ![]() |
| Speeeeeed ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posts: 6,530
(View Stats)
iTrader: (24)
Rep Power: 7491 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 6,190
Thanked 14,562 Times in 2,807 Posts
Groans: 41
Groaned at 23 Times in 19 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score What everyone is trying to tell you is that no tune is ideal in all situations. The fuel will be different from tank to tank, the weather is always changing, and sometimes you get knock and you cant explain why. If tunes could be made perfect, then yes you would probably be correct that the oem rod is plenty strong.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG |
| | |
![]() | | #46 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Iasi/Romania
Posts: 3,528
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 1237 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 1,288
Thanked 2,138 Times in 1,236 Posts
Groans: 111
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Btw, what's the story with cylinder #3? I don't remember seeing anything on the forum about that or a solution. can anyone point me to some info about this?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
| | |
![]() | | #47 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,711
(View Stats)
iTrader: (18)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 5,256
Thanked 2,986 Times in 1,411 Posts
Groans: 24
Groaned at 109 Times in 61 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
Flow imbalance with the stock intake manifold causing #3 to run lean... Maybe a combination of both.
__________________ PERM'D/FORGED - EFR 7163 Street Sleeper ![]() | |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Alpha For This Useful Post: | mituc (01-16-2012) |
![]() | | #48 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,730
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 23,548
Thanked 10,450 Times in 794 Posts
Groans: 30
Groaned at 28 Times in 17 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
I seem to recall people throw Cylinder Misfire codes for #3 more than any other, as well.
__________________ ![]() 2008 GT MS3 - 307 WHP/338 WTQ ATP GTX2867R - HTP 3" Intake - Cobb FMIC pipes + Treadstone TR8L - Cobb Catted Turboback - Cobb XLE BPV - Denso ITV22 plugs - Corksport Injector Seals - KMD HPFP - Cobb AP - CP-E RMM - Southbend Stage 3 Enduro Clutch/Flywheel - Bilstein B8s + Swift Springs - SPC Rear Camber Arms - Hotchkis RSB - MD OCC Kit - Enkei RPF1 - Bridgestone Potenza S-04 235/40/18 1995 Miata Dunlop Direzza Star Specs 185/60/14 - Koyo 37mm radiator - NAPA blank rotors - StopTech Street Performance pads - 949 Racing XIDA CS Coilovers - IL Motorsports suspension bushings - Racing Beat FSB - 949 Endlinks | |
| | |
![]() | | #49 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: windsor ontario canada
Posts: 126
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 4
Thanked 43 Times in 24 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score It was #4 for me and i can 100% assure you it isn't the balance shafts fault that the bearing spins. i will have to take some good pics of the rods to show you guys that when these rods bend the beam it causes the big end to pinch tighter. I was lucky that i caught it before the cap gave in and spun the bearing becuase i can show you how good these bearings looked for 104000km of use. For me i am starting to think that this is a hydrolock issue caused by fuel system issues but i am still looking into this so i will leave it with this 1-3-4-2. |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to troubled81 For This Useful Post: | dougefresh_ (01-25-2012) |
![]() | | #50 | ![]() |
| Daily Driver ![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 2,614
(View Stats)
iTrader: (9)
Rep Power: 880 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 576
Thanked 1,428 Times in 757 Posts
Groans: 52
Groaned at 82 Times in 51 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I blew #2 when my factory motor blew up and my KMD fuel pump internals were the cause they were failing during a WOT pull and the car sputtered a bit and went BOOM, while WOT my rod came out the block and busted my Passenger axle bracket...... when i built new motor and went to install axles i could not get the bolts in and it was because the bracket was fucked. |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Nitr0EngiE For This Useful Post: | dougefresh_ (01-25-2012) |
![]() | | #51 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Nor Cal- Pittsburg
Posts: 973
(View Stats)
iTrader: (15)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 74
Thanked 1,255 Times in 453 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 4 Times in 4 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score When you guys says hydrolock, I relate that to when water gets into the motor and causes it to seize. That is your typical definition for that. When you guys are talking about bending rods, and or burning rod bearings causing rod knock/failure, I relate that to something else entirely. These rods caps do not have a tang on them for the bearings to sit, and or snap into if you will. What happens is when there is an excessive load on the motor and your get any type of movement, be it thrust from the crankshaft, or the rods starting to go out of round the bearings will basically come together around the journal and melt together. When that happens, more often than not you will burn that journal on the crank as well as block that oil passage. That can eventually lead to creating enough tension as the rod will no longer want to turn/rotate and start to bend and or break. For the most part, you would be able to hear that onset of rod knock, but depending on your driving style (music, exhaust, or just the fact you may not know the sound), you may not even hear it. The COBB AP will be a great indicator if your timing is wack and your are detonating. It will be absolutely visible on a log file. Obviously another way to tell is if you do pull the motor out and disassemble it. Look at the under side of the piston as well as the wrist pin. If you have severe detonation, that wrist pin is going to be discolored from the heat. Now the oil squiters will be able to help with that somewhat, but it will be a tell tale sign of that. Usually you will see an area on the wrist pin that shows where the rod has essentially changed outside diameter from the heat. I have done some individual cylinder testing with EGT/AFR. I have seen these motors run very similar to a Honda motor (they have the same firing order), and cylinder number 3 is the one to keep an eye on. COBB does have the individual cylinder trim for timing, but no fuel at this time. Hopefully they will be able to write code for that in the future. Jason
__________________ JRL Tuning 510-459-7229 www.full-race.com |
| | |
![]() | | #52 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Moscow, Russia
Posts: 520
(View Stats)
iTrader: (4)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 208
Thanked 566 Times in 123 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 23 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
Stephan, waiting for a message from you)
__________________ Mazda 6 MPS Velocity Red, cp-e nano, cp-e TIP, BNR Stg3, Custom FMIC, cp-e HPFP, HKS Twin Power DLI2 ignition, HKS M35LF spark plugs, EGR block-off, catless 3" dp with welded in resonator, AutoExe Grounding Earth System, Grimmspeed BCS, AWR competition radiator, JBR SSP, 355mm 4-piston JBT Big Brake Kit, Rays RE30 wheels, Advan v103 tires, etc.. | |
| | |
![]() | | #53 | ![]() |
| Banned ![]() Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,173
(View Stats)
iTrader: (6)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 61
Thanked 959 Times in 473 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 28 Times in 11 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes been out of the office and will be out of town the next month. I will still have answers for you by tomorrow tho before I leave. |
| | |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Pistons and Rods or just Rods | ms3-87 | MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline | 38 | 04-14-2010 02:55 PM |
| Eagle Rods | ilusch | MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline | 3 | 10-10-2009 06:40 PM |
| FYI: Carrillo Rods vs. Factory Rods | JimmyMac | MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline | 45 | 02-20-2009 10:07 AM |
| New American Eagle Outfitters Coupon Codes - 15% Off Storewide at American Eagle Outfitters | Haltech | Hot Deals Section | 0 | 04-10-2008 03:00 PM |