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![]() | | #121 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed 3 LSM [SURE Motorsports Aeros SRI] | [SURE Motorsports Sidewinder TIP] | [Tial QR] [Custom CAB] | [JBR 80 Duro RMM] | [JBR Mud Flaps] | [35% 3m Tint] [Escort Passport 9500ix] [JBR EGR Delete] | [JBR Occ] | [JBR Heavy Shift Knob] | [JBR Shifter Bushings] [SURE Shortcut] | [SURE Counterweight] | [TWM Full Replacement Shifter] [Denso ITV-22] [Cobb AccessPORT - Freek Tune] [328hp/345tq - StreetTunedMotorsports Mustang Dyno 4/30/2013] [CP-e Catted Downpipe] | [CP-e Triton Exhaust] | [Autotech Internals] | [UR FMIC] | [KW Variant 1 Coilovers] | [Corksport Camber Plates] |
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![]() | | #122 | ![]() |
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I'll attempt this on my MS6 and report back with before and after AP reads. But before I do that; this is the correct procedure is it not? 1. Turn car to "on" position (engine off) and wait 15 seconds 2. Unplug connector 3. Turn on car and check for CEL 4. Remove CEL using ATR
__________________ 05 MPS 6 - Stratified Tuned - 305Kw atw/550nM GTX3071R, FORGED UP, DVC-30: WMI, Stage 2 OCC, CPe: Ex Mani, 4" TIP, 3.25" MAF, SRI, HPFP, Injector Seals, REM, SURE: Rear Diff Front mount & Brace, TIG's; Tial EWG, ETS 3.25" TMIC, Custom 3" TBE, 3-Bar MAP sensor, TurboSmart BOV, AWR SEM, JBR SS + Bushings, Perrin EBCS pro, Spec Stage 3+ Clutch, Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel, Custom Head Unit, Car-LED Tails, 6000K HIDs, Auto Head-light Kit, Mugen Visors, LED conv., Pedders "Super-Lows" Last edited by Rayd; 07-23-2012 at 09:07 AM. |
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![]() | | #123 | ![]() |
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__________________ DIY SRI, DIY WAIC, VCTS Mod, Gutted Stock DP, Cobb AP, SURE TIG, KMD Internals, Denso ITV22's SURE Dreadnaught, DSS Left Rear Axle, Custom in car SSP, JBR SSP, Powered by Max Shift Knob Megan Racing Coilovers 13.7@ 96 w/1.8 60ft (SRI, AP) 13.4@ 102 w/1.9 60ft (SRI,AP,WAIC,TIG, Internals, ITV22's) ![]() | |
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I did this yesterday and noticed that BATs drop as you cruise instead of rising like they used to. I'm all for anything that can lower BATs in this CA heat. |
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![]() | | #125 | ![]() |
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I got nervous. I plugged it back in. I think I'll just buy the plate and not wonder if my trap door is closed all the way.
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If it was stuck open in any way, you would be having problems prior to unplugging it. Since you weren't having problems before doing this, what makes you believe it's doing it now? Just because you unplugged the connector doesn't mean the valve is gonna magically fuck up. Shit doesn't work that way. | |
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![]() | | #127 | ![]() |
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ish...I don't like doing things unless I fully understand how things work.
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So then read back on this thread until you fully understand have the valve works.
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Couldn't find it anywhere in the thread... what causes the egr to open? Does it just do it every x seconds? Or is it proportional to the throttle being applied? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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The ecu.
__________________ ![]() ![]() Tokay Racing BeCuse Seals. BeCuse you need these. Demodded. Mwho? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I get that, but what are the conditions that causes the ECU to open it?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Dash08 Tokay444 I added to the Community Requests for features in AP/ATR to allow us to disable the EGR. This way no unplugging or block off plates needed. Post #417 (on the last page). You think this is possible? Community Requests for features in AP/ATR
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![]() | | #134 | ![]() |
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This is not a complicated system. | |
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So has anyone pulled out their plate or pipe to see if any build up occured? Pics if so so we can see the to shut some people UP
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![]() | | #137 | ![]() |
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Shut who up? Of course there will be buildup if the thing is still trying to work.
__________________ ![]() ![]() Tokay Racing BeCuse Seals. BeCuse you need these. Demodded. Mwho? Last edited by Tokay444; 07-28-2012 at 09:41 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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![]() | | #138 | ![]() |
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There won't be any more build up after the valve is disabled. It's the reason we delete the egr in the first place. To keep that shit out of the motor. | |
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I thought he meant buildup on the egr side of the block off plate.
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Why is this stupid thread still going. I didn't even read the last page. Here's whats going to happen. You will unplug your egr and turn off the light. Then when it starts to leak, you will get a lean code and not know your egr failed b/c you turned off the code. So you will be chasing an intake leak you dont have. Spend the f'ing 20 bucks cheap asses. Lastly, on the 2001 new lsx cars did not have an egr from the factory. Seriously, I doubt every state inspector knows were all the emission components are on every car. Just removed the god damn thing and tune the codes out. Tape the connector someone so no one can see it.
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Might as well explain why it would start to leak. It's solenoid activated isn't it? Your saying there's enough pressure to push the door open?
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![]() | | #142 | ![]() |
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__________________ DIY SRI, DIY WAIC, VCTS Mod, Gutted Stock DP, Cobb AP, SURE TIG, KMD Internals, Denso ITV22's SURE Dreadnaught, DSS Left Rear Axle, Custom in car SSP, JBR SSP, Powered by Max Shift Knob Megan Racing Coilovers 13.7@ 96 w/1.8 60ft (SRI, AP) 13.4@ 102 w/1.9 60ft (SRI,AP,WAIC,TIG, Internals, ITV22's) ![]() | |
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__________________ ![]() ![]() Tokay Racing BeCuse Seals. BeCuse you need these. Demodded. Mwho? | |
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Your post is inaccurate and heavily misleading to less knowledgeable members. And, as far as your remark about smog officials not knowing everything. Come talk to a few at a California test only station. You'll change that tune in no time. Perhaps you forgot that Ca. has the most stringent regulations in the entire country. | |
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Lol at removing the egr. Please explain what you will do with the coolant and exhaust leaks. Please if you dont know what you are talking about, shut the fuck up. Last thing we need is people that think they know what they are saying confusing others looking for real answers.
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Hmmm, planning on doing valve cleaning and 60K tune up on CX-7. Going to get versatune but didnt plan on deleting EGR on it just cause it the wife’s, however now I am thinking I will do this as it is easy enough. Dont want to install OCC as I can barely remember to empty mine, but this will help keep most of the crap out of the IM. And I will make this simple for all of you. Doing this will not allow any more leakage that what is already there (if there is any). So if a little bit is getting by while it is closed then it will get by whether you do this or not. That little bit of leakage is nothing to worry about as it wont be carrying much anyways and likely would slow overtime anyways. But it will prevent it from ever opening so you won’t get full on 1/2 diameter of flow. IMO the reason why it was never done this way before is because the first EGR delete was done by Whoosh and he blocked his off. I copied what he did about 4 years ago. Thanks OP. Makes it easier for me as im not really modding the CX-7 but will feel better about not having EGR after doing valve cleaning. Hoping I can get MPGs up from the 14-17 were getting now… |
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Peace of mind established. | |
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As I stated I did my MS6 way before these kits were even on the market and my IM was clean as a whistle. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ya, ive never seen what the valve looks like. Didnt really understand how it could be 100% air tight but ya, it should be otherwise it would cause problems as you stated...
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Just watch your vacuum if you're worried about it "leaking".
__________________ ![]() ![]() Tokay Racing BeCuse Seals. BeCuse you need these. Demodded. Mwho? |
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Why doesn't someone take an EGR valve out, stick a shop vac on one end and put their hand on the other end see if anything leaks and settle this once and for all.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. ETS TMIC, Cobb SRI, Cobb TIP, TWM SS w/Bushings and TypeR knob, Cobb Shift Weight, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb RSB, Autotech HPFP Internals, Denso Iridium ITV-22, Cobb AccessPort, Port and Polished IM, VTCS & EGR Delete, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, GS EBCS, CP-e Catted Downpipe. Coming Soon: Stratified Tuning Guardian Angel and Lex Tuning. |
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![]() | | #153 | ![]() |
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I seriously don't think we're going to accomplish that feat in this thread. | |
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What I'd really like to figure out is a way to wire in a circuit that makes the ECU think the EGR is there when it isn't and doesn't throw a code. Removing the need to have an AP clear the code. Some of those guys out there (Australia, Europe etc) aren't running an AP and are using alternative tuning solutions (like VersaTune, Piasini etc). Much like the solution someone came up with to add a relay to the VTCS valve circuit. I'm just someone who would rather use a mechanical solution as opposed to a software solution. Maybe someone can shed some light on the sensors and actuators in our EGR valve and we could design up a circuit with some male/female connectors that you would hook up inline and basically mechanically disable your EGR as well as remove the code.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. ETS TMIC, Cobb SRI, Cobb TIP, TWM SS w/Bushings and TypeR knob, Cobb Shift Weight, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb RSB, Autotech HPFP Internals, Denso Iridium ITV-22, Cobb AccessPort, Port and Polished IM, VTCS & EGR Delete, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, GS EBCS, CP-e Catted Downpipe. Coming Soon: Stratified Tuning Guardian Angel and Lex Tuning. |
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![]() | | #155 | ![]() |
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I wonder if it's as easy as running some kind of resister on the plug; like a circuit loop or something. Tagged for some good info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Even with the mechanical solution (block off plate) you still need the electronic solution of canceling the code.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score it is, but completely unnecessary if you have an ap, which you should with this car. if you feel you need a resistor, just measure the resistance of the egr motor and calculate the wattage, then find a matching resistor.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm just discussing in openly right now, but AP's don't work with Aussie and Euro MPS's and I'm unsure if VersaTune has the ability to ignore codes (maybe someone could chime in).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. ETS TMIC, Cobb SRI, Cobb TIP, TWM SS w/Bushings and TypeR knob, Cobb Shift Weight, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb RSB, Autotech HPFP Internals, Denso Iridium ITV-22, Cobb AccessPort, Port and Polished IM, VTCS & EGR Delete, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, GS EBCS, CP-e Catted Downpipe. Coming Soon: Stratified Tuning Guardian Angel and Lex Tuning. |
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So you're saying a paperclip won't work... Lol jk. You're right though, AP is the way to go (for USDM). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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![]() | | #160 | ![]() |
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I've said this before, but having to rely on an AP (which IMO is a mus have for our platform) to ignore a code is like putting black electrical tape in front of the blinking 12:00 of a VCR.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. ETS TMIC, Cobb SRI, Cobb TIP, TWM SS w/Bushings and TypeR knob, Cobb Shift Weight, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb RSB, Autotech HPFP Internals, Denso Iridium ITV-22, Cobb AccessPort, Port and Polished IM, VTCS & EGR Delete, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, GS EBCS, CP-e Catted Downpipe. Coming Soon: Stratified Tuning Guardian Angel and Lex Tuning. |
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