next mod?
 

So i'm torn right now on whats next for the Speed3. I have an sri, tip, and catback, and right now my pump is holding about 1750/1800 consistently at WOT. I'm stuck between getting an AP from freektune or stratified with an OTS+ style map, or spending that money on a test pipe, fuel pump internals, and a STS. My question is: is the AP worth getting right now when I could only run an ots stage 1 or 1+ tune? Or is the test pipe and pump worth getting first, and waiting on the tune for a bit

edit: Considered full downpipe but I don't have the $$ right now

Internals and AP, then continue modding. Do a custom tune last, so you don't need to retune.

HPFP Internals + AP are the next step. I wouldn't do anything else. Furthermore, if you don't have the money for an Ebay downpipe, you should probably not be modding your car. Everything you do to the engine is likely to sacrifice some motor longevity.

I wasn't considering an ebay downpipe as a legit option for a downpipe to be honest. Am I stupid for not looking at ebay parts?

Def +1 on the pump internals as a necessity. Don't be an idiot.

Only reason internals arent at the top of my list is that they haven't dipped into danger yet. But i guess it's a "they'll work great till they don't" type of thing. Thanks guys.

Doesn't matter. They're justa precaution. You're at the point where you need to decide if you're jumping in or staying out of the water. Ain't no dipping toes and shit.

It sucks to spend that much money on shit that doesn't directly make you more power, but it is what it is.

As far as a downpipe, yes.

I disagree only on the basis the that ebay downpipes I've personally seen and/or installed fit terribly. The one I installed required forceful removal of the hangers and clamps to meet it up with the cat back, and I know @Travisms3; has fitment issues with is so much that it pulls the exhaust tip well into the bumper.

As a pipe it works out fine, but fitment is complete crap and I wouldn't run it. A catless CNT is only a couple hundred bucks, go that route if any.

I have an Ebay DP (M2 brand) that cost me a little over $100USD, and it works perfectly with zero modifications except for a more robust v-band clamp.

I have an Ebay DP (M2 brand) that cost me a little over $100USD, and it works perfectly with zero modifications except for a more robust v-band clamp.

YMMV, of course.

The latest batch of M2/Manzo for MS3's seem to have some fitment issues. Mine was a little short too, I had to get a little creative with a stock donut gasket and stock hardware to get it to mate up to the stock catback. Just pulling catback forward made it hit the underbody.

Truff. I had fitment issues. It pulled my whole exhaust forward because it was short, which makes it *almost rub*. The hangers do not line up, and I had to cut them off because they were knocking on the body hangers. And the lifted 02 bung is too high, and gives me a check engine light for a rear 02.

With that said, for $150 bucks I'd probably do it again. If I cared a little more, I'd go CNT as suggested.

I haven't heard of any issues for the MS6. I've seen a ton for the MS3.

Gotta go catted; ran catless on previous car and I didn't dig my bumper to bumper traffic custom fit gas chamber.

Then if CNT is available now, I'd go with that. Check with them before you order it though. When I wanted them it seemed common for them to be backordered.

They are still backorder pretty much all the time, call them and see what the lead time to fill the order is.

Yeah I just checked it out and it's backordered. Gonna call tonight and see what the fill time is.

Good luck w/ your progress man, but I am confused why you are still searching for a downpipe. You are only doing it for shits and giggles, correct?

You should take to heart @Mike@Stratified;'s input on post #3. That there is some damn good reading.

I heard there is also the Donation Mod. I've heard that you don't even need CDFP internals before going w/ that mod.

Yeah just for shits and giggles, and future planning. Internals and AP first

Good plan ... golf clap.

The thing new people continually fail to understand is that coming from stock, you need more air flow to make more power, and that means you need more fuel. I bet with the stock intake and a good tune, you could actually outrun what the stock HPFP can do. That right there should tell you that a custom tune/AP, and internals are the most important mods for your vehicle.

More power isn't going to just magically appear if you add more flow mods...all those mods will do is give you more headroom that you aren't using because you don't have internals yet.

How do you know your fuel pressure without an ap?

Honestly been using the Torque app.

Although getting the AP and internals does not give you the instant gratification that flow mods do, it is pretty liberating. You will have fun messing with AP, logging, monitoring, etc. Then you are free to add pretty much any of the basic shit and prepare for a tune.

I have just reached the point where I am preparing for a tune, changing plugs and fixing a small exhaust leak. I will tell you, I am more anxious and excited to get a tune than I was for any of the other mods.

I followed what these guys suggest as a mod path and have not had any major issues.

Have fun with it and be patient.

I figured. You can't use that to reliably tell you the fuel pressure at WOT. The ap can. There are a couple other options too. But ap is the most common

Can or can't? contextually Can't makes more sense, but do you mean the torque app is reliable or is not?

Fixed. You cannot reliably use it because the refresh rate is too slow. At least that's the accepted line by those who keep up with that kind of stuff. (That doesn't include me. I've never tried it.)

Torque reads the same fuel pressure the AP does (on the high pressure side). You just need to make sure that you have no other live displays open and only log fuel pressure and RPM (basically the bare minimum in my opinion), so that no other PID's are being polled. In theory, even the cheap ELM327 OBD adapters should be capable of like 20 points per second. In practice, this is never achieved, but you will get enough to be able to see significant low pressure events.

I was able to use Torque to determine that my fuel pressure was indeed dipping on my completely stock 2012 Pu, on the stock tune. I attached an example that I captured using torque and my ELM327 adapter. This is actually what first led me to buy an AP. Don't discount Torque, it's a very powerful diagnostic tool for how little it costs.

I was making the mistake of polling quite a few PIDs, and as i look through the logs I am noticing only about 7 or 8 points per second, yet the general curve of the points doesn't seem to indicate low pressure. But, all of this aside, internals are a def need.