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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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does anyone know the ngk part number for the colder range spark plugs for our car thanks.
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When I spoke to the NGK tech he said to tap the bent part of the plug to the stock gap. It won't lie exactly orthogonal to the electrode but it's the best you can do for colder plugs. It's probably not that big of a deal. I gapped my at 0.32 but then reduced that to 0.30 b/c i was worried about spark blowout if the gap was too big.
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check my sig.
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Aren't those gapped at .044"? I thought the max you could change the gap was +/-.01".
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thanks. Gap ? I would just check the gap on the stockers and gap to the new ones to the same specs.
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Yeah I think stock gap is .028 to .032. I could be off by .001 but it's somewhere in that range though.
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Stock Spark Plug Info Spark plug type L3K9 18 110A, L3Y3 18 110 Spark plug gap 0.7—0.8 mm {0.028—0.031 in} Spark plug resistance [25°C {77 °F}] 3.0—7.5 kilohms | ||||||||
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The NGK tech told me that I could just tap the top of the plug down until it was gapped properly. I know people say that it won't be flat and the spark won't be even, etc. It's the only option for colder plugs with stock gap. I had mine at 0.032 but then went down to 0.030. I never noticed any difference from stock or the regap. Just felt better about it...
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hey i called my local parts store with that number they have nothing. anyone know why or maybe they just didn't carry them. I've only called one. sucks cause i work at a mazda dealership as a tech and we have NGK plugs but don't have or carry those in stock and they say they can't get them for me either. i know i can get them on line but i was looking to just go pick them up from my local parts store.
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What exactly is uneven spark, by the way?
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the plugs on PG have to be adjusted? or am I reading this wrong. I was going to purchase the NGK plugs from PG but i assumed they just needed to be put in.
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The ideal setup is for the bent top of the plug to be completely perpendicular to the electrode for maximum arc so that the electrode wears evenly. The plugs mentioned are presumably that way at 0.044". Gapping them at 0.032" would bend the top down and it would no longer be perpendicular. FWIW, I don't believe any of this. I'm just disclosing everything I've heard and been told about it.
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So just replacing the stock plugs with the NGK plugs won't blow my shit up, right?
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Assuming you gap them correctly, no. If you don't, you'll get misfiring or rough idle (assuming the engine even starts to begin with). But it's really not hard to do at all, so I can't imagine you'd screw it up that bad. Changing and gapping spark plugs is about the same difficulty as changing your oil.
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I think spark plugs dot com cross referanced these plugs from a Mazda 6. If there is any truth to that they may be easily had at the dealer level also.
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Dadas correct, it is no big deal to buy whatever plugs you like and gap them to factory specs, or maybe a bit less gap for better spark. Because the tip if bent a bit, it is not as great as if it were straight.. .030 should be just fine. Clubplug.net is the best place to purchase plugs that I know if. I ordered my NGKs from there, and came in just 4 days. | ||||||||
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mine came gaped at 35 and I just left them there
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ![]() So what does getting colder plugs do for you...? I was going to start a new thread but figured this would be a good place to have this info...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you don't have them already I would order them. I really dont feel like explaining it all right now but if you raised the boost or power output is going up way passed the stock out put some step colder plugs are always a good safety and performance precaution.
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I put them in and didn't notice any difference while driving or at idle. Starting the car is a little different. Hard to explain how but it seems like it starts quicker. The OEM plugs are actually supposed to be really good plugs (I actually heard they were NGK somewhere but mine just said FoMoCo on them) so I didn't expect a drastic improvement.
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![]() I was getting spark blow out and detonation while on stock plugs so since it was cheap swapped those out. I dont need anymore blown turbos or injectors. | |||||||||
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I running stock boost right now... So, colder plugs is strictly just a safety measure?
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Thanks for the info guys...
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so bottom line whatd we gap at?
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.03
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He said bottom line, I was just making it easy for him so he didn't have to think for himself | ||||||||
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merge thread with other spark plug sticky? two spark plug stickies?
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i gap mine @ .026 and all is well. i'm on my 2nd set now
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i just got these plugs...so far so good. they're gapped to .030
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__________________ 09 Black Mica - 18" OZ Ultraleggeras - Cobb SRI - Cobb Turbo Inlet - Cobb AP Stage 2 - Cobb FMIC - Turbo XS TBE - Turbosmart BOV - 35% Tint - Stock Rubber | ||||||||
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yeah 9$ is about right for them
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with the new NGK numbering system (4 digit numbers) its a 6510. Its the same plug as the LTR7IX-11, but with the new NGK catalogue number. As well, stock cars can benefit from this too. If your car is detonating at all, this will help clear it up a bit. My car is BONE stock, except for these plugs, and I dynoed 203awhp and 238tq on a VERY conservative Mustang dyno. For reference, that dyno has routinely dynoed STi's rated at 300hp at 210-212hp. Lots of them have been on the rollers and they all are the same. So I figure my car is working well with these plugs in
__________________ 06 Speed6, camber balljoints and alignment, StarSpecs, Konigs, Corksport full intake system, PTP pump internals, Cobb Ap. 91 Talon TSi, 5spd AWD, GT3076R, fmic, 3" exhaust, Jackal EMS, methanol injection, JIC C/O and more. | ||||||||
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