oil in intake
 

Hey guys im working on the timing chain tsb but while i was in there i wanted to check my plugs and some other things, so i have two questions.

1. I have a oil catch can and it does fill up but i still have oil in my intake track and charge pipes. I can see it at the very end of the turbo inlet and in the turbo outlet and also sitting at the bottom of the tb. Car dosnt smoke, only a little puff at wot. Why is this happening?

2. I have one step colder plugs in the car and i just pulled them and they look really worn out, gap its at about .040, only had them on for about a year. Is this normal for the step colder plugs?

Iv attached some photos maybe itll help.


Thanks for the help

Gapped at .040? Damn, did you put them in that way or did they open up.....they shouldn't open up that much.

What's your mods?
Last time you've done a compression test?
Stock tune or running an ap tune? If tune, what tune with how much boost?
What oil are you running?

The above is a start.

I did not put them in that way ( i believe they come pregaped?). Yes mods, cobb ap stage 1+ with maf calibration, turbo inlet pipe, filter and, air box, bsd, egr delete, oil windage tray, deleted the vane in the intake manifold (for the love of god i cant remember what its called), step colder plugs, oil catch can plumed corksports way,and boost is at 15 psi, no compression test done, checked afrs after running stage 1+ no problems there,and i run amsoil (just did an oil change).

Amsoil in what 5w-30?

Do a compression test. It sounds like you might have blow by.

I would recommend making the switch to Rotella T6 5W-40 with an OEM Mazda or better filter.
Put in a new set of Denso ITV22's or NGK plugs gapped at .028

Even if they say pre-gapped, check for yourself to make sure. When I ordered my Denso's

each spark plug had a differant gap

Yeah, the plug thing is pretty ridiculous. Very hit or miss. Pregapped on the box=more reason to verify yourself.

I was always nervous because they put all these warnings like " pregaped, DO NOT GAP" on them and i dont want to break them. And yes 5w- 30 amsoil.

Ok....always measure no matter what, measuring is harmless.

Also your mod list doesn't justify to have one step colder plugs, when you go one step colder to soon you will foul early....which it looks like you have. One step colder is if your car is knocking bad.
You really should compression test if you're getting that much oil flying into your system....it looks like it's bypassing your catch can system which the only way would be through the rings into the intake valve and track....have you looked into your intake manifold or throttle body? Look into those areas.

sent while granny shifting and not double clutching like I should.

MS6 Spark Plug Reference List - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
See im confused now cuz this is one of the posts i first read and they say, along with cobb, to run a step colder plug?! When do you really need them?

Also just to clarify im running the denso itv22.

Did a compression test today 190 across all 4 cyl, all held pressure for 5 min with no appreciable difference. Took my intake manifold off to and there's oil sitting in the bottom of it too.

Possibly pcv valve has failed. If your running a occ make sure it's plumed correctly.

I just redid the catch can and piping, running it with the valve cover vent and pcv teed together then ran to the can, then from the can to the port on the turbo inlet pipe, with the intake manifold plugged. This is how cork sport runs it.

The oil in your intake is from the valve cover breather. That's a good bit of oil though so I'd say you have excessive blow-by but your compression test was fine so idk. It shouldn't get in there anymore now that you teed the valve cover into the catch can.

And that's a retarded gap on those plugs. Also you don't need colder plugs with your mods.

Get new stock heat range plugs and gap them to .026-.028

the ngk's are pregapped to .040.... so you need to gap them down regardless of what it says. the densos i believe come in at .032 so if you are nervous about gapping them down this plug requires less bending and will probably make you feel better about doing it.

Ok so ill go back to stock plugs do you guys prefer denso or ngk?

I run stock heat range NGK's and they work great. Can't comment on Denso's, never ran em, but like snailD said, The NGK's will require more work to gap.

Get yourself a proper gap gauge if you don't have one:

http://www.scooterwest.com/file/000/...g_gap_tool.jpg

Avoid feeler gauges, as they can damage electrodes.

i have both lol. Does anyone run auto lites? I ran them in my 2.3l turbo merkur all the time.

op whats your tire pressure?

I didn't know anyone on here had even heard of a Merkur. AutoLite 764's FTW in that car. But I'm not a fan of AutoLite's in any of my other cars.

Yep same i ran in mine, shes going threw a full resto right now. Here a few photos.

So far this is what i have ordered for the timing chain. Believe my auto part store can lend me the two tools for the cam and crank.
MZR VVT Replacement Kit Mazdaspeed 3 Mazdaspeed 6 2006-2013

I'm running the autolights, so far it's been fine the last 15k, haven't had issues. I was misfiring in random cylinders but I managed it being the injectors. I pulled them out 2 months ago to do a compression test and they still looked healthy.

sent while granny shifting and not double clutching like I should.

Hmm good to know.

You don't need step colders with the power you're making.

So rule of thumb is to watch knock retard in ap and if its very high run colder plugs?

I'd monitor your WOT KR, and not your part throttle KR which usually looks pretty high on the min/max on your AP.

If you're running into a lot of KR at WOT, you might want to have your tune looked at. Take some logs.

ok can do that, once shes up and running again lol

Finished the vvt!! Car is so much quieter now and with the new plugs and fuel pump car feels sooo much better. So glad i did this! I will check for oil in the intake in a few days. Thanks for all the help guys.