Oil use
 

Does anyone have experience with a balance shaft delete after a complete forged build? I'm not sure about how much oil to run now that the BS carriage is gone. It takes a little over 7 qts. to fill to the line but is that too much? We're having oil usage issues that don't make sense! The car runs very strongly on Wiseco pistons /Pauter rods / C-pe Elevate turbo. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks

Heavily modified 07 Speed3

7 quarts with Balance Shaft removed. You're good.

I feel sorry for your car, 7 quarts is fine.


Sent while comparing belt buckles and guns and bragging about Bush n shit

Don't feel too sorry for it...it cost me about $20,000+to get it to the point where the pistons knocked the oil squirters out and down into the crankcase! The mashing of the squirters mandated the BS delete (after 1500 miles on the build) This little car's appetite for oil is only surpassed by its lust for money. Ya sure we shouldn't just run the 5.5 qts?

The balance shaft eats up the space where that extra quart and a half goes, use 7.

Using bad grammar from my cell phone.

Not sure if troll....but why the fuck didn't you bend the oil squirters out of the way since you're using Wiseco pistons? It's not like it's not a known issue. And the balance shaft displaces about 1-1.5 quarts of oil, so obviously when you remove it you'll require more oil to get it to the fill line. It's one of the main reasons you would want to remove it: more oil capacity.

no matter what modifications you do inside the engine, their needs to be enough oil so the strainer tube can suck up the oil.

Always check the dipstick.

I didn't do the build...just bank-rolled it. Didn't know from shit about bending any stinking oil squirters...obviously the builders didn't either!!...should have researched it better myself first, I guess...expensive lesson learned! Now what? Why is it using 1-1.5 qt / 500 mi on Wiseco pistons & CM rings? At oil change, the catch can is 3/4 full! WTF? Compression check is optimal...no visible leaks...turbo is clean...crankcase fix was done at build...only a tiny puff of blue smoke every once in a while, usually while decelerating to a stop....WTF?

You may be able to tweak the squirters from under the car with the oil pan off...

The squirters were removed last summer, along with the balance shaft and other debris captured by the screen and mag drain plug, thank God. This oil thing just started a few weeks ago? We're just driving and watching it to see what happens. So far, no improvement. That's why I asked the Forum for ideas. Is a tear down inevitable?? God help me

So you have been driving without oil squirters for how long?

There was some discussion about this one here a while ago, you could find the thread and read up on what many other people thought about that.

Last summer? The builder says he was told the new (stock bore) pistons would go right in and that the squirters would not be a concern...by Wiseco, I think he said.

Are the squirters not what keep the walls and wrist pins lubed? Seems like no matter the bore, you would need them. I would imagine the rings are toast

Link to thread about oil squirter delete.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...delete-150324/

I was wrong lol now I know

Thanks to all and especially to JSmith for the link to the old conversation on squirters! I read them all with childlike curiosity...and didn't learn a fucking thing...except everyone seems to have their own ideas about the subject. I'm screwed as far as the squirters go...they're gone, and the motor has 20K+ on it since their departure! I need to know why it's using oil like a Liberian tanker. I change the oil (5w30 Edge)about every 1K mi and it is as black as a whore's heart! Is this nonsense to be expected from such an investment?

All right asshole. I was giving you the benefit of the doubt and showing you what other people would have told you to fuck off and search for.

Whoa...you got me wrong JS! I am genuinely grateful for your help!! I meant that I didn't learn anything because , when it comes to this shit, you're right.., I'm a lame asshole...not because you didn't point me in the right direction, but because I couldn't figure it out! I meant no offense to you or your kind attention. I'm just not a very good writer. You've, so far, been the most help on the Forum and I thank you and apologize for any misunderstanding. Don't hold it against me, Ok?

Do a leak down test. Compression tests have been inconclusive at determining a failed ringland. Use google to search the site for other instances of failed rings or full OCC, or leakdown tests. It could be something simple.

You would be the first (that I know of) to DD this engine without oil squirters, so any pictures of a tear down would be appreciated.

That whole oil squirter delete thread was pretty much an inconclusive as to the effects of removing the oil squirters. Did you block off the oil squirter lines when you removed them?

Well it's the builder's fault for not rotating the assembly to check for clearance during the build. That's what you pay them for: to understand what you do not. My machinist bent mine, but when I tore the engine down a few weeks ago they were still broken off. That's not why you're using oil; there's something else going on. And you're fine without the squirters. They provide additional cooling, but forged pistons aren't as prone to detonation anyway. What was the compression by the way? And check with the machinist on the ring gap he used. Also, do a leakdown test. See what's going on.

Hey guys, thanks for staying with me...I have been trying for 2 weeks to contact the speed shop in ABQ, NM that did the 1st tune on the new engine and the BS/squirters delete.(did not do the build) They wont return my calls. I know they're still in business but, apparently, they don't want to talk about this. When they discovered the damaged balance shaft and the dislodged squirters, they found them in the bottom of the pan, three of them. I don't remember what they said about the forth, if they removed it or what. I don't remember what was said about blocking the holes...I only remember how happy I was about not having to pay to rebuild my brand new "bullet-proof" motor! And thanks again JS the builder has confirmed a date to do a leakdown and to do whatever needs to be done (ie. rings, etc) to find out for sure what's going on and to put it right. The speed shop here in Knoxville, TN scoped it and found no damage Compression was 180-185, I think. Changed the oil today...took 7 qts. exactly. 1cup of oil in the catcher. It's running great, cooks out right on up through the curve...somebody did something right somewhere along the line. Maybe it's just bad luck for me?

So wait, how is it using oil if all the oil was accounted for? What exactly is wrong?

Do you have a way of logging data? Accessport maybe? People smarter than I could inspect, and possibly comment on the tune via a WOT log. Read up on what parameters to log, and how to run the log before you post one up.

I assume that there is nothing out of the ordinary via spark plug inspection? One doesn't look different than the rest?

FYI, if you throw $25 bucks in and donate to the site more people might be willing to help out. It really is a small price to pay for access to the for sale section and GF nudes.

I have a Cobb V2 Access port that was used in the tune last summer in ABQ, but I misplaced it in the move back to TN! Still looking and will post when found. The dipstick was reading 1.5 qt low after 800 mi (and about 1 cup was in the catch can) when I changed the oil yesterday. So...about 1.4 qt is not accounted for. I donated $25.00 last Feb, JS, but I will donate again, you're right..it's a small price to pay for all the help. Thanks again guys DH

So the motor is burning 1.5qt every 1k miles, but you say its running great?

I'd suggest doing the leakdown test that everyone mentioned earlier.

Leakdown test coming this week. Builder says he will tear it down if he has to. He says he built it "loose" to improve wear and that the ring gaps were as recommended by Wiseco. He spoke with Cpe about it as well during build. It was a brand new, stock block(no sleeves?) that was used, not a rebuild. And it is running great...really.