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Opinions on different sets of mods. First off I've done a ton of searching on these forums and google but I haven't found a direct answer to the question I have. I have a 09 MS3 that I bought brand new about 2.5 years ago. Somehow I've only managed to install a Cobb STS last spring and I'm starting to get a little bored and I'd like a boost of power. So I've been weighing all my options, and I've basically come down to two scenarios. Option 1: Cobb SRI Cobb TIP Cobb AP Cobb TPE (or just downpipe)(*future) Option 2: Cobb SRI or CPE Nano Cobb TIP or CPE TPE Cobb AP CPE TMIC On top of either option I'll be picking up a RMM, most likely a SURE from the cost perspective along with Shifter Bushings. Now the one thing I want to note is that I'm still under warranty and although my dealer has said "a mod will only void a warranty claim if that part is found to cause a problem" I still want to play it safe. Which is why I'll be taking off my bolt-ons prior to going to the dealer. I like the idea of option 1 because of the fact that I can get maps straight from Cobb and they "should" work very well as I'll have Cobb parts. The only problem is once I get bored again and I want to install the downpipe/TBE I don't plan or ripping it out everytime so adios warranty if anything goes wrong (although I haven't read many warranties being voided with downpipes, just threats). Now I like option 2 (especially with the wicked sale on the TMIC) however from looking at Cobb's site the only TMIC map says a TBE is needed. That along with the fact that if I go CPE for intake I don't have a map designed for the intake (unless I make a map which I'm a little hesitant as I'm a tuning newb). On a side note Cobb did a poll on their forums ages ago asking about intakes and which one they should develop a map for (CPE had the highest amount of votes but nothing since. Now some of you may say why don't you get the TMIC and a TBE, and I would like to avoid that as well from what I've read about then needing to replace FP. Basically I'd like to gain a "bit" of power to keep me satisfied for a while, do so as safely as possible, and not spend so much money that the wife catches me haha. Edit:I forgot to add another thing I'm cautious about is the temperature where I live and whether that will affect my fuel trims and if one route would be better then another. It was -25 C or -13 F this morning and we've had a couple -40 C or F days this winter. From combing through hours of post I haven't come across posts that talked about mods in weather this cold and how it effects FT's. From the posts I did come across it seems that cold weather screws with FT's a bit and I'm guessing the colder it gets the worse it is. Summers aren't bad though and we'll hit a couple 35+C (95F) so it's not like I live in antartica (Edmonton, AB to be exact). I know that the stock ECU limits boost in cold weather but with the AP does that still apply? I don't bag my car when it's cold (until it warms up anyways) but I want to confirm that I'll still be able to keep the AP installed in the cold months without having to go to a stock map and then having to remove the mods if my FT's are all fugged up. Sorry this is so long winded, I tend to ramble. |
intake, AP, tip, tmic route sounds like it would be good for what you're looking for, just go for it. |
1. RMM 2. SRI/TIP 3. AP ...done trust me I wish I just did those 3 instead of messing with the downpipe. If you really want more... 4. upgrade fuel pump 5.TMIC 6. TBE But you will really enjoy the car with just the first 3 I mentioned. Plus easy install/uninstall and no worries about reliability with only those 3. |
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AP, intake, tip, TMIC, RMM, rsb and $10 donation to msf. Your obviously familiar with the first 5, but let me explain the last two. I'm sure u know what an rsb is, but the difference is night and day on this car! It makes even the most mundane drives ten times more enjoyable. There are a few options out there; I like my jbr. When u get these mods, somewhere down the road something will go wrong or u'll want to go further, and that ten dollar donation will save u tons of time, flaming and headaches. It is a very important mod that u can obviously afford. Btw, all these brownies claim that they have searched thoroughly, and then ask the same shit that has been posted over and over and over... Someone asks this question almost everyday here... Though usually in not so many words. |
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Took care of donate mod, I knew I should have done password recovery with paypal sooner lol. Did more searching and found this thread http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/sho...-with-TMIC-map so that answers my question of which map to run for the TMIC. Now I just have to decide if the TMIC is worth the $350, err convince myself my wife won't catch me buying all this stuff for my car. |
350 for tmic is a great price. I have mines on order. Knowing myself, I knew I was eventually going to get it, so Im buying it while its cheap. When u order parts, just make sure u know the delivery date and watch for the delivery guy. My fiancee doesn't know about all the recent parts I just bought, lol. Id rather spend money on my car than a wedding. If she found out, she'd kill me. Lol. |
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Also, if you don't want to get the full downpipe, get test pipe - cobb says it increases the VE enough to run more boost (for me hopefully 19-20 psi), so with a tune you should make good power without having to go through a full downpipe install. If you don't want your exhaust to sound different, go with a resonated test pipe. FWIW, I noticed a lot less drone when I switched back to my stock TP, so I'm getting a resonator welded in my UR TP/RP before it goes back in. Meth is also something to consider, if you want to get aggressive with your timing. idk, you'll have to do research on it to figure out if it's worth the hassle to you. edit: CK is spot on with the rear sway comment. I stocked my car out for the dealership recently - if there was one mod I could keep, it would be the sway bar. The steering doesn't feel that much heavier, but the car is just so much more composed than it was before. Everything is sharper, and to boot, the car is rock solid on the highway - tracking isn't better per se, but the car does respond to small inputs with greater precision. When I first installed the rsb, I thought "what's the big deal?" - the more I drive the car, the more certain I am that the rsb has been my favorite modification. Literally has no drawbacks (even with power modifications, there's increased torque steer, annoying cut when the swas cuts in, traction control pissing you off constantly, increased wheel hop, etc.), is easy to bolt up, and sharpens up the car like you would not believe. |
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Yeah, people don't bring up the rsb much, which I think is too bad. It is fairly inexpensive, effects ride very little (unlike most suspension mods from what I've been told), and also, doesn't have any major long term effects on the car and doesn't require any other mod to make it work... And while it is great improvement on high speed turns, the real fun to me is with everyday driving, flinging it around 90* turns which used to be absolutely boring. It makes the steering feel much lighter too, (in a good way) on hard turns. TMIC is a good thing, and like fengrs said, $350 is a good price. I don't know how the summers are wher you live, but last summer here, when it was 90*+, I was like, "where did my turbo go?" with the stocker... Also, unless she sees the bill, you can't really tell you have an aftermarket tmic. And yeah, I've added a ton without my GF (of 7 years... might as well be my wife) finding out... Hope she can't tell when I go BT in a few weeks! lol |
Thanks for all the replies guys I really appreciate the quick responses. I started to look at some RSB's and I'm amazed that although prices are very similar the adjustment points seem to vary a lot. James Barone, Corksport, Tri-Point, Cobb, and Hotchkis are names I've come across so far and I know there's more. OMG grease-able sway bar bushings on the Hotchkis!!! My MS3 squeaks like crazy in the cold and I've had the dealer replace the sway bar bushings twice (once just 2-3 weeks ago). We talked about grease-able sway bar bushings but I kind of forgot to look any further. I'm going to try greasing the stock ones tomorrow and if it takes away the noise I'll be buying front and rear sway bars. I'll leave that for the other forum section. Yeah summer here can reach 90+ for a few days, many 80+ days as well though. |
OP: Just curiouis as to why you are a Cobb fanboy, or it looks like that from your wish list. Cobb does make some good stuff, but I've always believed that the best mods may end up coming from a wide variety of manufacturers. I have nothing against Cobb. But in each instance when I did my homework, I found something else that met my needs better, and usually for less money, although not always so. Look around, read, search, take your time. You should consider doing your mods serially, and not a large number of them at the same time. If you install multiple products all at the same time and encounter an issue (and everyone does at some point) it gets hard to try to figure out what is acting up and what needs to be done to resolve the issue. For what it may be worth, consider mods in this order: 1. A good intake, SRI or CAI - I prefer the latter, but that is a matter of personal choice. 2. A boost gauge or some form of engine monitoring equipment like Dash Hawk. 3. Catted or catless dp/rp combo, retaining stock exhaust (stock CBE flows extremely well). I like the design of the TurboXS if you can go catless). 4. Rear Motor Mount (maybe the SURE) 5. Tuning option - I like the combination of power, simplicity, drivability and safety of the Hypertech. It gets you 95%+ of the maximum potential of the AP on the stock turbo while doing it safely and with much smoother light to middle power throttle response, and does it very, very safely. 6. One step colder plugs (only once you are at least 50 hp above stock levels). I say don't waste your money on a TIP. It has not been proven to really increase power. I say wait on a larger intercooler or FMIC, the stock part does a pretty damn good job under most driving conditions. Intercoolers do not make more power, they only delay heat soak and can produce turbo lag if plumbing is too long or if IC capacity is too great. I also say keep your stock BPV. BPV's don't make power either. Mine operates extremely smoothly and at almost 50,000 miles I absolutely cannot make it leak or act up even at 19 psi target boost on the Hypertech tune and catless dp/rp. Just thought you'd want another perspective from someone who is not a fanboy of any manufacturer. I don't think any two mods I have came from the same company. |
No I'm not a fanboy of Cobb at all. The main reason I've been looking at an AP is the HUGE number of people that recommend them. I took the time after reading your reply to check out the Hypertech which I had never looked at. I have to say I like what I see, it seems like it would be perfect for the low amount of modifications I plan to do to my car. HOWEVER I want to be able to monitor which would mean picking up a dashhawk. Now I'm looking at more money for two tools that do the same job as one. Plus if for reason I do go further with modding I have to go through the hassle of selling the HT, buying the AP and having a dashhawk I don't need or selling it as well. If it logged at all I would have ordered one before I even responded to this thread. Now in regards to the Cobb SRI over anything else (and I plan to stick with an SRI for cost and my instint to hit puddles) it is only because there is already an OTS map for the Cobb intake. I'm still keeping my options open though as I would prefer not to break my battery tray like so many Cobb owners have. I do appreciate another vastly different opinion though, it's nice to know there are so many other options out there. |
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