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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The BEGI ic piping is also run right along on top of it and the thing is hot as shit to the touch. I know its the hotside... but still its got to be affecting it... plus even with the coating im afraid it might melt the piping.. Whats everybodies thoughts on heat wrapping this stuff... or rigging something to combat all that heat now that the shield is gone. I kind of wish Id coated it now. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score IMHO regarding wrap: Pro 1. Heat is energy and every attempt should be made to conserve heat between the head and the turbo. 2. Heat is the enemy of everything else in the engine compartment Con 1.Header wrap has the reputation of shortening the life of the tubing because of the elevated temperatures that result. I do not know if this is deserved. Personally, I'd wrap the manifold AND fab a heat shield. -enganear |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Stainless will tarnish and crack under heat wrap.. My Helix DP on my WRX did. It may not have been the highest quality stuff but it wasn't ebay junk. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score wrap it! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if anything I would say maybe get it coated if not wrapping it shouldn't be a problem as long as you check it every few months or so I guess. Or like suggested fab up some sort of heat shield. I may be able to fab something for you, My dad owns a sheet metal fabrication company. |
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| Wrapping was cool.. in the 80's... Today, we have Jet-Hot Ceramic coating... It's your best friend these days.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score my friend with the "stock" manifold, tim the one where the FMIC was crooked(its straight now) when I touched the coated intercoler pipe up by the manifold it was hot..ouch!..lol he had the stocker manifold so maybe this is no big deal..
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| Not Ranked : 0 score what i did....... i used the cloth type heat wrap, but i did not wrap the header. i wrapped it around the turbo outlet and rubber coupler. its been on for 6 months...no problems at all. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score my biggest issue is with that damn intercooler piping. I need piping that doesnt run right over the length of the manifold. I like the heat shield idea the best. That shit just looks too good back there to wrap it. The thought of it looking like some 1970's basketball players knee all ace bandaged up makes me want a cry. Next I'd want to put a headband on the turbo..lol |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lol funny |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score maybe the cpe one will work when it comes out but the core looked really small on the car I saw it on yesterday. I didn't see an underhood shot of it though just the exterior of the car. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score IIRC the cp-e is supposed to be good to 450 hp. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score whens it supposed to be available.... have there been any spy shots? and where are they gonna run the piping. So far... the turbo xs, and the atp garrett setups look like their gonna be sitting right on top of the manifold.... or as Driver said.... TOUCHING the mani. The corksport I dont want because of design. Itd be the worst. The Cobb will probably never come out. The Begi is probably the best of the bunch and I have concerns with it. Plus I fear the power restraints. Corky Bell said efficient to 350whp.. Im running out of gaddam options. Next step is to fab something. im frustrated here. |
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PS.... if you could make it out of clear material so I can still show of the header it would make it even better.... perfect...lol | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score well clear would be expensive if you want aluminum. There are a pair of CP-e fmics in south Africa right now from what I heard. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score i was joking about clear...i didnt know it was even possible. Anything to block that heat would be marvelous, Ive got aluminum foil back there now, for the time being. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When I have my end tanks built I will get some pictures up of our FMIC. Its huge and doesn't even come close to the manifold. |
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-enganear | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score does the pg manifold get any hotter than the stock manifold??....
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I recommend Titanium Joe . -enganear | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Jesus, this is funny. Ok, I will IR temp the Stock manifold with the shield on, with the shield off, then with my ceramic coated PG manifold. If I can, I'll also have my friend at the fire department thermal image all three. Just one problem,.....KEN....I STILL DONT HAVE MY GASKETS, SILICONE IC HOSE, OR CP-e DP!!!! As soon as I get all my shit, I'll do some thermal testing. Shit, I'll even do an under hood temperature test.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm a bit fan of coating over wrapping. Wrapping traps a majority of the heat between the outside metal, and the exhaust wrap. This heat then wears down one side of the metal faster then the other, which can eventually lead to issues down the road. (Depending on quality of metal, wrap/spray coating used) Coating is done on the inside and outside of the piping, helping to both shield the metal from some heat, as well as equally distributing the heat load for reduced fatigue. Of course wrap is cheap, coating is not. You also can't coat a DP with a catylatic converter. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Coat, then wrap.... then coat and wrap some more! |
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Jet Hot and the company I used will tell you that coating the inside on turbo applications is not recommended I'm not an expert on cat converters but I can't see how coating a CP-E catted downpipe with 2000 degree coating would not hold up
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Really? Wow I didn't know that. I always assumed the whole point of coating was because you got both the inside and outside. I think the internal coating has to do with non metallic cats (on the whole catyatlic converter discussion). |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think that as the inside coating starts to "eventually" flake off they don't want to hear any shit for it entering the turbo and/or motor and ruining either/both.... And let's face it - no matter how good of a coating it is, it will eventually take enough of a beating to breakdown under those extreme conditions.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score trapping heat in a catalytic converter is a very bad idea it causes the internals to melt and eventually can clog the exhaust system which on a turbo car can actually cause damage to the turbo itself. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So what do manufacturers use for turbo coating? Do they just coat the outsides of the housing? I thought for sure they also coated the inside...maybe thats just the compressor side? |
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You can coat the down pipe on the outside. Performance coatings recommends coating the inside on a turbo application.
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| As long as you do heat cycles on internally coating parts, they wont flake.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score is it worth it to get a DP coated? |
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| Naw, usually turbo and manifold is all you need to coat. Everything after that is just a waste of money.
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MSF -The HARDCORE Of Mazda High Performance Tech! Flex Limited Ecoboost - Not Stock ![]() Gen1 MS3 - COBB FMIC V2.0 | COBB SRI | COBB AP Stage 2 W/MSF_V1.08y | COBB 3" Downpipe | COBB CBE | Devil's Own Stage 2 Meth Injection | AST 4300 Coilovers | Haltech Fuel Pump Internals | Rota Torque 18x8 w/ 235/40/18 | ACT 6 PUCK Sprung/Streetlite ![]() | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Though coating will have diminishing returns the further you go down the exhaust stream.... Anytime you can keep the exhaust energy in the piping, and not dissipating out into the surrounding air, is a good thing. Remember, its not just keeping the heat away from the rest of your car, it's maintaining that heat and velocity in the piping itself. I'm crazy about heat though. I'm the guy who will have an upgraded radiator, coat his manifold, turbo, and DP, and probably wrap the IC piping. Hmm that reminds me...I wonder if mazdamotorsports has a radiator for the ms3. |
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From a thermodynamic standpoint you want to maintain heat going to the turbo. Loss of heat = loss of power. After the turbo it does not matter. The separate issue is avoiding the cooking of everything else nearby. -enganear | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When my PG mani returns from Mississippi with its Extreme Sterling coat I will be able to give a more informed answer to the question.
__________________ My grocery getter: 2007 MS3 GT with CP-E Xcel, CP-E DP, CP-E cat-back with 12 inch oval muffler, CP-E Full Control Flash, CP-E Nviscid, mrlilguy CDFP, 3.25 ETS TMIC, Forge BPV, NGK plugs, JB Racing Stage 2 short shift kit, Meth Stage 3 w/2.5 tank, Cobb rear sway, Cobb springs, SteedSpeed Exhaust Manifold, SU mount, 18x8 48 off SSR with 245/40/18 RE-11's, Inalfa Moonroof, Huper Optik tint ....Farm truck 3.3L Whipple over Compound turbos toy 4x4 Diesel |
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