PLEASE READ!!! NEED HELP ASAP Another Engine gone!

[kingpin748]

Originally Posted by CSlater21 75% or more of these engine issues/blows are caused by the driver, not the car.

I think that the engine is the issue. Mazda cheaped out on the rods using the term "forged" in its looses sense.

My engine should not blow because I put a TBE on it. I should not have to think "I can't floor it until after 3500RPM or my engine could blow".

[Darksun280]

I see you viewing the thread lym you got no comments just gonna keep groaning me LOL

[kingpin748]

Originally Posted by Darksun280 I see you viewing the thread lym you got no comments just gonna keep groaning me LOL

I'm going to groan you. This thread could be interesting if we don't fight.

Can't we all just get along?

[Lymerock]

Originally Posted by Darksun280 I see you viewing the thread lym you got no comments just gonna keep groaning me LOL

I'll groan you if your post is worded in such a way to instigate a highschool fight.

First, Ive said my .02, second you and others disagreed, thrird, I dont have more to say and I dont need to make people agree with me.

Im just interested in what others might say, so I check up on this thread. We know where you stand, you know where I stand.

I dont hate you for disagreeing with me, I enjoyed the posts the other night, I'm just bored with it now and waiting for the next fun thread to come along.
Thats why I didnt bother to respond till you called me out.

[Darksun280]

Originally Posted by kingpin748 I'm going to groan you. This thread could be interesting if we don't fight. Can't we all just get along?

Hey I just said it was stupid what Lym said cause no one on this planet it going to blow a motor leave a bunch of after market equipment on the car and take it in to the dealer and leave the chance of getting voided whether its the mods fault or not. Before you know it lyme's cheerleader arken whatever comes in the the thread with some pom poms and a mini skirt and starts flying off the handle.

[Darksun280]

Originally Posted by Lymerock I'll groan you if your post is worded in such a way to instigate a highschool fight. First, Ive said my .02, second you and others disagreed, thrird, I dont have more to say and I dont need to make people agree with me. Im just interested in what others might say, so I check up on this thread. We know where you stand, you know where I stand. I dont hate you for disagreeing with me, I enjoyed the posts the other night, I'm just bored with it now and waiting for the next fun thread to come along. Thats why I didnt bother to respond till you called me out.

I like high school fights and I've gotten pretty good at them as you can see. But I have no beef with you I actually much prefer the taste of that arken cry baby and gamblore. Where are those two I'm feeling frisky right now.

[Darksun280]

Not going to lie I should probably clean up this thread. If any one wants it cleaned up vote I'll take care of it later.

[Awddsm97]

Originally Posted by Darksun280 Cause Its the right thing to do. How can you even look your self in the mirror in the morning with an attitude like that towards Mazda USA and the dealers? Lyme and Arkenzo are the only two decent human beings left on this site I can see. Well theres about to be 3 decent human beings left cause I'm calling Mazda USA RIGHT NOW and letting them know every mod I have on my car so if in the future if my motor blows they will judge me appropriately and if they see fit even void my warranty.....wait a second... hold on.... Oh that's right, they already VOIDED my drivetrain warranty for a intake when my motor fell out the car. Well at least for a second there I was considering doing the right thing. Hopefully its just the thought that counts. When my second warranty kicks in I'll turn my self in then I promise. I won't be able to sleep easy at night until I do what these two random guys on the internet told me to do thats for sure.

I don't think they are trying to say that they are better than anyone else here. The point is simple, If you mod your car beyound your knowledge and experience level and blow the motor then you should be prepared to pay when the time comes. I have modded my brother's care carefully and tastefully. He fully understands the limitations of the motor ect and drives accordingly. As a matter of FACT I have 2 spare motors in my garage in case he messes up. I am not going to tell you that the dealership is going to do what's in your best interest. It is wise to protect yourself from being screwed. If you install an exhaust and Mazda voids your warranty and refuses to fix your A/C, that I do not agree with. However, if you mod your car and drive it not knowing if you are detonating or even if the car is running as it should you get what you deserve.

[phailerider]

some mazda dealerships void complete warrantys for absolute bullshit people.

weve had guys voided for boost gauges and intakes. a bpv. i was refused service on my ac for a vibrant exhaust. they said they didnt want to work on it... id voided my warranty by removing a cat. whats that have to do with my a/c?

this is how the game works....

they try as hard as possible to fuck you...you try as hard as possible to fuck them. its the luck of the draw. win some lose some. screw... or get screwed.

this has nothing to do with the "right thing". this is just how the game is played. to suggest that we play fair and square when mazda doesnt.... is pure pollyanna.

[kingpin748]

Originally Posted by Awddsm97 The point is simple, If you mod your car beyound your knowledge and experience level and blow the motor then you should be prepared to pay when the time comes.

I think that's a good point but I'm not sure that applies to the argument here. Mazda fucks us, why shouldn't we fuck them back.

Originally Posted by palerider to suggest that we play fair and square when mazda doesnt.... is pure pollyanna.

Had to look that up.

Pollyanna

[ElBartoRex]

there has to be some correlation that can be drawn from these motors going. Something collectively that we can figure out to narrow down the cause if this.

[phailerider]

lincoln log rods,in high compression turbo charged motors may have something to do with it.

[ElBartoRex]

so the theory of 'it's not the car, it's how you drive it' does not apply?

so basically if you have bolt-ons on the car you are driving on borrowed time?

[Awddsm97]

Originally Posted by kingpin748 I think that's a good point but I'm not sure that applies to the argument here. Mazda fucks us, why shouldn't we fuck them back.

It does in a way. Getting what you deserve (warranty wise) and trying to FUCK Mazda are two diffrent things in my opinion. Let's not forget that most times it's sleazy dealers that give Mazda a bad rep.

[Awddsm97]

Originally Posted by ElBartoRex so the theory of 'it's not the car, it's how you drive it' does not apply? so basically if you have bolt-ons on the car you are driving on borrowed time?

There is no reason that a bolt on car should not survive daily driving. The motor is not "weak" or poorly designed. Motor failures are usually caused by over rev or detonation ( for the most part). Modding the car for more power gets you closer to the detonation threshold. If you don't know how to care for a modded car it's best not to mod until you understand what you are exactly doing.

[ElBartoRex]

Originally Posted by Awddsm97 There is no reason that a bolt on car should not survive daily driving. The motor is not "weak" or poorly designed. Motor failures are usually caused by over rev or detonation ( for the most part). Modding the car for more power gets you closer to the detonation threshold. If you don't know how to care for a modded car it's best not to mod until you understand what you are exactly doing.

so how do you care for your modded car that is so different that these people that have been popping motors cruising at 45mph (according to them)?

[kingpin748]

Originally Posted by Awddsm97 There is no reason that a bolt on car should not survive daily driving. The motor is not "weak" or poorly designed. Motor failures are usually caused by over rev or detonation ( for the most part). Modding the car for more power gets you closer to the detonation threshold. If you don't know how to care for a modded car it's best not to mod until you understand what you are exactly doing.

I can't say I agree with that in regards to our car. Most of the guys with blown motors were driving normally at the time, not at redline. And everyone on the list is break these shitty rods.

What else should we be doing to a car with TBE, FMIC, and intake to properly care for this car? What exactly is everyone doing, or should I say not doing, to destroy their motors?

[bioevolve]

They broke at normal driving because they were already stressed and damage previously. It just finally let loose at those times. Stress fractures then getting progressively worse then boom.

Dealers screw us every chance they get, why not screw back? It's only fair, the nature of things.

[wisniaPl]

I would return to stock and fuck mazda ...and I would smile driving car wiht new engine, because bullshit they give us is amazing......

[Darksun280]

Originally Posted by wisniaPl I would return to stock and fuck mazda ...and I would smile driving car wiht new engine, because bullshit they give us is amazing......

lol i forgot they wouldn't touch your car cause it had no resonators.

[Lex]

It could also be some lemon engines. Manufacturing processes are not 100%.

[wassup61]

What really matters is the conditions under which the grenade happened as well as if the motor has seen other stresses in the past such as a stall due to hydrolock, or if the OP had any spark retard immediately before the faliure.

WE NEED TO KNOW THE CONDITIONS UNDER WHICH THIS HAPPENED!

[wisniaPl]

Originally Posted by Darksun280 lol i forgot they wouldn't touch your car cause it had no resonators.

after something stupid like that you look, and think different about dealership......took them 1 month to replace my cats.....so i cant imagine replacing my engine It propably will take them 1 year....they tried to fuck me so If i have to I will fuck them with pleasure Just my 0.02 cents

[ElBartoRex]

Originally Posted by bioevolve They broke at normal driving because they were already stressed and damage previously.

so, can someone please define 'stressed and damaged previously' ? I keep hearing people throwing out blanket statements like that with no specifics. I am really interested in what people think about this.

[Super Unique]

I have heard countless times about spark knock and pre ignition which are separate issues, but isn't the knock sensor there to serve the purpose of cutting spark advance with it detects that threshold? If it's not working correctly is there a problem with the ECU effectively detecting and controlling these events? This would obviously apply to those of us who are running their engine stock or very nearly stock.

[arkenzo]

Darksun280 , with the attitude you show in this forum , it's quite clear that you have the small penis syndrome....It's ok...You'll eventually find a girl who likes you for who you are, which is an uneducated douche bag with a fat mouth.

Hey look, even rice agrees


Hehehehehe

[crazyitalian041]

ok back on topic briefly and back to the bs after... these engines popping is driving me insane... did it go through the block? did you hit fuel cut and stay on it?

commence more bs.

[JimmyMac]

I should take a poll and see what oil people were running when they blew their motors.... I'm just curious....

I won't add this to the list until I have more info and/or until it gets a review by the dealer.

[Darksun280]

Originally Posted by arkenzo Darksun280 , with the attitude you show in this forum , it's quite clear that you have the small penis syndrome....It's ok...You'll eventually find a girl who likes you for who you are, which is an uneducated douche bag with a fat mouth. Hey look, even rice agrees Hehehehehe

After two days of you laying low and cowering in the back ground you finally muster the courage to post and thats all you could come up with? That post was weak man. Please do me a favor I'll act like I didn't read it so you have a chance to edit it and maybe come up with a snappier/more interesting come back. Or wait did those 1-2 combo posts I put out on you really throw you that much off your game?

[Awddsm97]

Originally Posted by kingpin748 I can't say I agree with that in regards to our car. Most of the guys with blown motors were driving normally at the time, not at redline. And everyone on the list is break these shitty rods.

This happens because the damage has already been done. When you detonate there is a possibility of slight bearing contact. That contact can make the bearing out of round and cause excessive bearing clearance not to mention that rod bolts can become streched as well. So this damage can be progressive and when it fails it's almost unpredictable.

Originally Posted by kingpin748 What else should we be doing to a car with TBE, FMIC, and intake to properly care for this car? What exactly is everyone doing, or should I say not doing, to destroy their motors?

Personally, I have a few things I do that have been learned over the years. I use a heavier weight oil ( this helps maintian the oil film during and detonation events prevents bearing contact). Verify no boost leaks. Keep knock in check. Adjust driving style for conditons. Example, if i have been in stop and go traffic and the road opens up I don't " Gun it" immediately. Why? I know the TMIC is heavily heat soaked and if I do run it hard my chances of seeing detonation are very high. Again, know your car and how it works. When I dyno'd the car I pulled plugs every run. Again I was looking for any signs of heat or detonation. I also allow for cool down between runs.

Now have about you tell me some facts as to why these motors are so poor? I'd love to hear some theory not statistics. I'd want to see proof of a snapped rod. Not a rod that let loose and was damaged when it passed throught the block. I am talking a documented rod that snapped due to excessive power. It seems that claims are passed as fact and I would love to hear your stance on that.

[dadasracecar]

My rod was bent in two places and snapped about an inch below the wrist pin. The associated pisted was completely gone but the other pistons showed no signs of detonation whatsoever. The other plugs looked fine as well.

[Awddsm97]

Originally Posted by dadasracecar My rod was bent in two places and snapped about an inch below the wrist pin. The associated pisted was completely gone but the other pistons showed no signs of detonation whatsoever. The other plugs looked fine as well.

What cylinder number was it? What the big end still connected to the crank shaft? What about the condition of the bearing? I am very interested to know more. Excellent information.

[arkenzo]

Originally Posted by Darksun280 After two days of you laying low and cowering in the back ground you finally muster the courage to post and thats all you could come up with?

You really have no life, you counted the days I didn't log onto MSF? Bahahaha, you are one funny douche.

[Darksun280]

Originally Posted by arkenzo You really have no life, you counted the days I didn't log onto MSF? Bahahaha, you are one funny douche.

Its only cause I miss you when your not around

[booya620]

What about the gas people are using. I think(not sure) that the west coast seems to predominately have gasoline rated at 91 octane, where as New England usually skips 91 octane and jumps from 89 to 93. The higher octane gasoline that is being consumed the less chance of detonation. So I think we need to know what gas is being used when these cars are blowing. Not just what was put in the car last, but for the last 2-3 weeks. If someone was short on money, they could have filled up at 89 octane and put $10 in 3 times since at 91, and still have been running a mixture equivalent to 90 octane at time of detonation.

for those worried about protecting their motors:
1 monitor for knock
2 after modding get on a dyno and have afr checked in wideband at part and wot (make sure its safe)THIS SHOULD BE DONE BEFORE HARD DRIVING OR BOOSTING THE CAR.
3 run the highest fuel available when planning on running full boost
4 heavier weight oil
5 Spark plugs 1-2 heat ranges colder than stock. It will give a colder burning spark and will help dissipate heat, this will help prevent knock and pre-detonation.

[kraz3y]

Originally Posted by Darksun280 lol i forgot they wouldn't touch your car cause it had no resonators.

mine has no resonators too haha maybe they didnt notice it?

[gtlaw]

Originally Posted by booya620 What about the gas people are using. I think(not sure) that the west coast seems to predominately have gasoline rated at 91 octane, where as New England usually skips 91 octane and jumps from 89 to 93. The higher octane gasoline that is being consumed the less chance of detonation. So I think we need to know what gas is being used when these cars are blowing. Not just what was put in the car last, but for the last 2-3 weeks. If someone was short on money, they could have filled up at 89 octane and put $10 in 3 times since at 91, and still have been running a mixture equivalent to 90 octane at time of detonation. for those worried about protecting their motors: 1 monitor for knock 2 after modding get on a dyno and have afr checked in wideband at part and wot (make sure its safe)THIS SHOULD BE DONE BEFORE HARD DRIVING OR BOOSTING THE CAR. 3 run the highest fuel available when planning on running full boost 4 heavier weight oil 5 Spark plugs 1-2 heat ranges colder than stock. It will give a colder burning spark and will help dissipate heat, this will help prevent knock and pre-detonation.

if you can't afford the highest octane avaliable you should probably be driving an oldsmobile bravada or hyundai elantra not a MS3. if your stupid enough to use lower octane fuel I'm glad your engine blew up

[Super Unique]

Mine gets nothing but 93 octane from chevron or hess.

[kraz3y]

wish we had 93 in cali

[arkenzo]

Originally Posted by kraz3y wish we had 93 in cali

QFT