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MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines.


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 Old 08-15-2013, 03:48 PM   #41
 
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The point i was trying to get at is why is your car that hot in the first place. I could have just been boosting the hell out of my car, and i have a FULL FMIC in front of my car, and i have not had my temps get that high maybe about 205 or so unless i let the car sit for a little while afterwards or in traffic will i see temps like that. When i had my mazda6 and my fan switch went out it started out with the fan running consistently after i turn the car off. took it to the dealership and the replaced the relay i believe and it never did it again. But ook if that is normal then we'll just move on...

Have you done any of the other test yet?
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 Old 08-15-2013, 06:25 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
The point i was trying to get at is why is your car that hot in the first place. I could have just been boosting the hell out of my car, and i have a FULL FMIC in front of my car, and i have not had my temps get that high maybe about 205 or so unless i let the car sit for a little while afterwards or in traffic will i see temps like that. When i had my mazda6 and my fan switch went out it started out with the fan running consistently after i turn the car off. took it to the dealership and the replaced the relay i believe and it never did it again. But ook if that is normal then we'll just move on...

Have you done any of the other test yet?
I do leave in California remember so its always hot.and no im working on getting those done.a friend had said he was going to get a mechanic at the dealership to help me but at this point I doubt he is going to come through for me so im having my mechanic borrow the tools he needs from a shop he used to work at.im waiting on an update from him when we can do it
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 Old 08-16-2013, 02:01 AM   #43
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If you are losing coolant, a ghetto test is warming the car up, let it idle, and hold your hand in the exhaust stream for a bit. If your hand smells sweet you have a cracked head or a bad hg. Your hand will condense the coolant since its cooler than the exhaust.
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 Old 08-16-2013, 08:26 AM   #44
 
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To add to the ghetto way of doing things: If you have bad head gasket or cracked head wait til the car is cool enough to take the radiator cap off and top off the radiator so you can see the fluid. Then while the cap is off start the car.. If the fluid shoots out like a volcano then you have pressure in your coolant system mostly from your pistons pushing air into your coolant system. It usually takes about 30 secs to a min to rise and over flow under normal conditions. depending on the temps either inside of the motor and/or outside.
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 Old 08-16-2013, 08:38 AM   #45
 
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Lol,,,the ghetto way sounds like I might end up with burnt hands.I'm gonna wait on my mechanic to borrow a leak down and probably a block tester too and see where we go from there

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 Old 08-16-2013, 07:51 PM   #46
 
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Alright.so update on whats going on. Had the leak down test done and at TDC I am not loosing anything at all hence the head and head gasket are fine. The car failed the block test hence its something to do with the block.by the look of things all signs point towards a cracked block letting oil into cylinder number one when its at BDC. Also might explain why oil is getting into the coolant
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