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 Old 05-27-2017, 05:21 AM   #1
 
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Default Rebuild - Info

Hi !

I had done a leak down test yesterday and finally I have a lost of 40% on my cylinder #3 here the number :

cyl 1 : 95%
cyl 2 : 94%
cyl 3 : 60%
cyl 4 : 94%

So a rebuild is needed ...

I want to know what should I modified to avoid another problem in my cylinder 3 ... here the stuff I will order :

- GTX2867 + Tuned
- JBR Tru-3.0 Wide Path Full Aluminum Intake System
- Corksport Injector Seal
- JBR Under Piping + TR8
- JMF Intake Manifold
- Upgrade Boost Controller
- Supertech P4-MAS88-10H13 - Pistons
- Supertech CR-MZR23T-H150.7 - Rods
- Multiple parts : Stage 3 MZR Motor Build Kit MS3/MS6 2006-2013

If you have suggestion about parts ... or something else (I'm here to learn)

I want to build something solid for a long time ...

Thanks for your help
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Last edited by Atomic41; 05-27-2017 at 06:04 AM.
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 Old 05-28-2017, 05:18 AM   #2
 
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Nobody know Why our cylinder #3 dead more than the other ???

Is it the exhaust manifold wrong balance or the intake manifold ...

Nobody Can help me With that ??
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 Old 05-28-2017, 07:27 AM   #3
 
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There was a huge thread on here where I think both were tested extensively to answer that question. I want o say that maybe user phate or Djouinstein (sp) did it if that helps your search.
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 Old 05-28-2017, 05:19 PM   #4
 
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Do you have the link to this thread ???
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 Old 05-28-2017, 06:20 PM   #5
 
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Don't forget the balance shaft is beneath cylinder #3 . Which (IMO) leads to oil starvation. I dont have a thread link for this. But, I have remove my balance shaft.

The BSD is your choice. As I suggest researching it to make your own decision.

Also, the intake manifold provides more air (leaner) in cyl #2 and #3 .
Source:
Your Intake Manifold and You

If you are going through all this effort, i would strongly suggest porting the IM (as I have).
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 Old 05-28-2017, 07:51 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by mach69 View Post
Don't forget the balance shaft is beneath cylinder #3 . Which (IMO) leads to oil starvation. I dont have a thread link for this. But, I have remove my balance shaft.

The BSD is your choice. As I suggest researching it to make your own decision.

Also, the intake manifold provides more air (leaner) in cyl #2 and #3 .
Source:
Your Intake Manifold and You

If you are going through all this effort, i would strongly suggest porting the IM (as I have).
I'm thinking JMF IM ... better than just a Ported stock IM
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 Old 05-29-2017, 06:06 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by mach69 View Post
Don't forget the balance shaft is beneath cylinder #3 . Which (IMO) leads to oil starvation. I dont have a thread link for this. But, I have remove my balance shaft.

The BSD is your choice. As I suggest researching it to make your own decision.

Also, the intake manifold provides more air (leaner) in cyl #2 and #3 .
Source:
Your Intake Manifold and You

If you are going through all this effort, i would strongly suggest porting the IM (as I have).
so maybe if I go with these :

XS Exhaust Manifold
JMF Intake Manifold
BSD

I have modz that will help my rebuild engine to avoid the problem I got on my cylinder #3 ???
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 Old 05-30-2017, 05:24 AM   #8
 
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is it true if I go with these modification :

FullRace Exhaust Manifold
JMF Intake Manifold
BSD

I have modz that will help my rebuild engine to avoid the problem I got on my cylinder #3 in stock form engine???
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 Old 05-30-2017, 06:45 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by mach69 View Post
Don't forget the balance shaft is beneath cylinder #3 . Which (IMO) leads to oil starvation. I dont have a thread link for this. But, I have remove my balance shaft.

The BSD is your choice. As I suggest researching it to make your own decision.

Also, the intake manifold provides more air (leaner) in cyl #2 and #3 .
Source:
Your Intake Manifold and You

If you are going through all this effort, i would strongly suggest porting the IM (as I have).
The BSD mod has not proved to do anything for the MZR engine other than increasing oil capacity which helps the oil cool better because their is more of it to disperse the heat.

Cylinder 3 suffers a lot due to the flow imbalance from the exhaust and intake manifolds.

Good luck with your build. You can keep the the balance shaft if you want, I did with my build. I did change the exhaust manifold and port out my intake to help the flow. The next step would be to for the Focus ST manifold.
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 Old 05-30-2017, 06:56 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by pwdunmore View Post
The BSD mod has not proved to do anything for the MZR engine other than increasing oil capacity which helps the oil cool better because their is more of it to disperse the heat.

Cylinder 3 suffers a lot due to the flow imbalance from the exhaust and intake manifolds.

Good luck with your build. You can keep the the balance shaft if you want, I did with my build. I did change the exhaust manifold and port out my intake to help the flow. The next step would be to for the Focus ST manifold.
Which one you choose for your EM ???
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 Old 05-30-2017, 08:32 AM   #11
 
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XS Power V3 - Not the best but it will do for my power goals and it doesn't have the neck down of the stocker
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 Old 06-05-2017, 01:31 PM   #12
 
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- GTX2867 + Tuned = MazdaSpeed 3/6 Garrett ATP Big Turbo + Custom Tune Package [MZSPD_ATP_Package] - $1,750.00USD : Stratified Automotive Controls
- JBR Tru-3.0 Wide Path Full Aluminum Intake System
- Bosch 3MAP sensor
- CPE Injector Seal
- JBR Under Piping + TR8 Intercooler
- JMF Intake Manifold
- Grimmspeed boost controller
- Supertech P4-MAS88-10H13 - Pistons
- Supertech CR-MZR23T-H150.7 - Rods
- Full Race ProStock Turbo Manifold : Full Race Prostock Turbo Manifold MZR DISI Turbo Mazdaspeed 3 6 MS3 MS6
- gasket + etc : Stage 3 MZR Motor Build Kit MS3/MS6 2006-2013


a good setup with this parts ???
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 Old 06-15-2017, 11:56 AM   #13
 
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If I order a brand new 2.3L Turbo DISI engine from Mazda Canada ... they will take it from Chicago USA (I will have it 5 to 8 days) but I want to know ... do you think this engine will have the new VTT revision ?? or this engine is built since 2007 and wait ???
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 Old 06-16-2017, 08:04 AM   #14
 
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They should have the new VVT and the new chain.
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 Old 06-16-2017, 06:57 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
They should have the new VVT and the new chain.
Is it a Good move ???

Or a rebuild is a better option ???
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 Old 06-16-2017, 07:08 PM   #16
 
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New motor you will have oem components for oem power and oem longevity. A rebuilt motor gives you an option for an upgrade to handle more power.
What are your goals?????????
What is your favorite color???????
Do you like hairy or shaved pussy????????
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 Old 06-17-2017, 02:41 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Atomic41 View Post
Is it a Good move ???

Or a rebuild is a better option ???
Rebuild. Here is why:
1. the factory engines come with a very narrow ring end gap. This is part of the cracked ringlands issue that haunts this platform since ages;
2. done right, a rebuilt engine will drive on the street like any factory engine and will be able to withstand significantly more power when you want to without running into mechanical issues when you throw more torque at it;
3. it may take more time but it's at least $2k cheaper (well, in my case a new engine is 10k EUR or about $11k, and rebuilding an engine including new OEM parts and labour is about half of that. Int he US/CAN the engines are cheaper and the labour is at least 50% more expensive, so you'll have to do the math yourself.

If you can't find a reputable engine builder in your area just go to a dealer, even if the labour will be a bit more expensive. I rebuilt the original engine twice at the dealer (which now is a spare) + another one which is now on the car.
Find a dealer who has a mechanic who knows how to build engines. I asked to build them to factory specs except for the piston ring gap, which they wanted to be 0.12-0.16mm and I asked for 0.4mm.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 07:05 AM   #18
 
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Btw I spoke with my engine builder and he said the balance shaft has nothing to do with oil starvation. The oil squirters still push out the same amount of oil, the balance shaft only adds extra oil capacity which is nice for track days.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 08:01 AM   #19
 
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So this part with a rebuild engine is a good way to go :

- CPE Injector Seal
- JBR Under Piping + TR8 Intercooler
- JMF Intake Manifold
- Grimmspeed boost controller
- Supertech P4-MAS88-10H13 - Pistons
- Supertech CR-MZR23T-H150.7 - Rods
- gasket + etc : Stage 3 MZR Motor Build Kit MS3/MS6 2006-2013
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 Old 06-17-2017, 08:28 AM   #20
 
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As I've said before, I'd look into Pistons and rods that are known to do well on our platform.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 09:39 AM   #21
 
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I want 4032 allow pistons ... so which one do you recommend ?
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 Old 06-17-2017, 10:09 AM   #22
 
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Well that brand is not 4032 just an FYI. SP are good.
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

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 Old 06-17-2017, 10:49 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Atomic41 View Post
I want 4032 allow pistons ... so which one do you recommend ?
The ones from SP63.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 04:23 PM   #24
 
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Do you check the part number supertech made 4032 allow piston for our engine
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 Old 06-18-2017, 10:13 AM   #25
 
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I don't have any experience with the Supertech pistons, but the SP63 4032 pistons are doing very well in my engine and one of my friend's engine which I ordered all the rebuild parts for.
I'm not saying it's not a good part, you asked what we recommend and re recommended the SP63 pistons based on our previous experience, that's all.
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 Old 06-18-2017, 06:23 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
I don't have any experience with the Supertech pistons, but the SP63 4032 pistons are doing very well in my engine and one of my friend's engine which I ordered all the rebuild parts for.
I'm not saying it's not a good part, you asked what we recommend and re recommended the SP63 pistons based on our previous experience, that's all.
the stage 1 engine from SP63 is it a good option ???
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 Old 06-19-2017, 10:53 PM   #27
 
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I only have experience with them as a parts vendor but I've heard mostly good things about them. So yes, a stage1 engine from them ready to use may be a good idea.
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 Old 06-20-2017, 05:39 AM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
I only have experience with them as a parts vendor but I've heard mostly good things about them. So yes, a stage1 engine from them ready to use may be a good idea.
I wrote them 2 emails ... no news ... they are suppose to answer to their email ???

if not there is a way from a email address I could have comeback from them ?

Thanks for your help
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 Old 06-20-2017, 07:18 AM   #29
 
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Porting the stock IM for flow balance is worthless because it is the way it is designed. The TB is installed past #4 , it cannot flow correctly. Keep looking for a custom IM.

Let us know what you will find at cyl #3 ...(good chances for a ringland....) You can increase ring gap to help but don't over do it because you will get engine blow-by.
You can also check if you can get knock from the tune or if it is from fatigue.

Edge rebuild kit has everything you need and sometimes a bit more...you pay for that ''little more'' too. It isn't bad to replace everything but oil strainer, fw bolts aren't mandatory. Often chain guides are fine too. If the crank isn't shot and the engine isn't 300 000miles, you may keep the used oil pump and go for a stage2. Gen2 probably don't need a new VVT either.
You should get a timing tool kit if you plan to do it yourself. You would need one and read about timing/vvt how to...
I personally got my crank and pulley keyed for peace of mind.
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 Old 06-20-2017, 07:58 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
you may keep the used oil pump and go for a stage2.
What you mean by stage 2 for the oil pump ???
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 Old 06-20-2017, 02:08 PM   #31
 
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Edge makes 3 rebuild kit. The stage 3 include oil pump but the stage 2 just don't...
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 Old 07-26-2017, 01:16 PM   #32
 
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Update :

- CPE Injector Seal
- HTP Hot Side Under Piping + TR8 Intercooler
- FOST IM + Adapter
- Grimmspeed boost controller
- SP63 4032 Pistons => SP63 4032 Series Pistons For Mazda MZR-DISI - SPEED PERF6RMANC3
- Manley H-Beams Rods
- Edge Stage3 Parts : Stage 3 MZR Motor Build Kit MS3/MS6 2006-2013
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 Old 07-30-2017, 07:10 PM   #33
 
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I want to know what is the best core for a FMIC on our car ??? I want the best possibility core for the MAX cooling solution ...

I look to a TR8 but maybe there is something better with more fin and best cooling solution possible

I need to change my flywheel + clutch I want to know which flywheel do you suggest to me ? I think I will go with OEM Clutch ... but I don't which type of flywheel to have the same feeling of the OEM but the price because this LUK is way to high I know it's a dual mass ... do we have other option for a dual mass on the market ...

THanks for your help
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 Old 07-30-2017, 11:43 PM   #34
 
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There is no "best FMIC core", it's the best for your setup. TR8 has a decent volume and a decent cooling capacity which I think you can use up to like 500bhp.

If you want to stick with the factory clutch then get a Fidanza FW. Otherwise SouthBend is the answer.
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 Old 07-31-2017, 05:28 AM   #35
 
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so all the FMIC core on the market for our car are the same and offering the same performance in term of cooling option ... if I look like Spearco, Precision ... their core aren't better than Treadstone ?
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 Old 07-31-2017, 05:43 AM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
There is no "best FMIC core", it's the best for your setup. TR8 has a decent volume and a decent cooling capacity which I think you can use up to like 500bhp.

If you want to stick with the factory clutch then get a Fidanza FW. Otherwise SouthBend is the answer.
Sounbend will I have more torque support ?

The flywheel that come with the STAGE2 will I have the same chatter like the fidanza ? if I want a chatter less flywheel which one I must choose ?
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 Old 07-31-2017, 02:40 PM   #37
 
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I can't tell about the chatter of the Fidanza, but the chatter of the SB FW is bearable and not annoying at all. It's louder when you're outside the car, like on a side, when you move to the front of the idling car you can't notice it. Inside the car it's also audible at low RPMs but once above like 1800-2000 it's gone. And yes, SB have quite a bit of torque support.
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SP63 87.5mm 4032 9.5:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, Clevite AL main bearings, King rod bearings, CP-e safe seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
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 Old 08-01-2017, 06:27 AM   #38
 
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Which type of BPV I can use for my Cold Section piping with my DM FoST IM ?

I got right now a TurboSmart BPV and I want to know if I can reuse it ?

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 Old 08-01-2017, 01:30 PM   #39
 
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Could I get better cooling with this unit : https://turboneticsinc.com/store/ind...product_id=104
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 Old 08-02-2017, 07:03 PM   #40
 
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Nobody can help about this ... any idea ...

Nobody can help ... any idea

Treadstone < Precision < Spearco

or

treadstone = Precision = Spearco
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Last edited by Atomic41; 08-02-2017 at 07:03 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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