Rerouting the alternator wire.
 

Hey guys,

When I was doing some work on my car recently (doing a valve cover swap), I noticed there is a big fat wire that runs across the valve cover on the passenger side and seems to lead to the alternator.

I guess my first question is, how the hell does that wire come off the alternator? I didn't want to force anything and I couldn't find anything in the service manual about it, but it is something I can just unbolt or pop off?

That said, I really don't like having that wire run across it like that, has anyone explored the option to reroute this wire somewhere less visible?

Maybe even try extending that wire in order to give it more slack and avoid things like the accessory belt and pulleys?

Just a thought.

.........................................

wow.

I was going to answer you, but I got a headache thinking about it.

Do yourself and your car a favor, don't fuck with that wire.

LOL I won't be doing anything without research guys, this is why I'm curious.
However how the hell do you get this disconnected?
Is that wire only the alternator wire or is there something else wrapped up in that wire?

If I'm asking a stupid question, guys, don't be shy and put me back to earth.

Not being able to figure out how the wire is attached should be a damn good indication that you shouldn't fuck with it.

Think about what you're doing, man. You want to move the wire because it isn't visually attractive where it is now.

Hardly seems worth the risk of fucking shit up.

Just leave it alone. Get the idea out of your head and start thinking about something more worth while.

Well, I finally found the entry for the alternator wire in the service manual.
I didn't think to look it up as the "generator".

Anyhow, I didn't realize it's as stupid as a bolt type connector on the wire.
Why I couldn't figure it out is because there's a shield of some sort on the outside of it, so I hadn't bothered taking that off to look.
I guess now I know.

Since you're so fucking hellbent on doing this, I'll give you some valuable advice.

Disconnect the battery before you do anything.

If you're going to extend the wire, use the same exact gauge wiring as what is on there now. If you know how to solder, do that, or find someone who can. Use shrink wrap to seal your solder points.

ok ok so.....

you see this wire going across your valve cover

and you are like "man i totally dont like that going across my valve cover"

so.....you want to go through a bunch of work....possible electrocuting yourself in the process...just because you dont like the way mazda engineers routed some wires?

wtf is wrong with you

He has just spent a ton of work to make the valve cover look awesome..

He is just trying to move the wire away from it to make it look good..

well then he is a fucking ricer

LOL F-off... yeah I spent some time polishing out my valve cover, I just noticed that when I was doing the swap that wire is just lying there right across.
I have no problems extending that wires using the same gauge, I'm guessing it's 4 gauge or 2 gauge wire. I can definitely solder and heat shrink wire like nobody's business.

Why arent you thinking about doing a small wire tuck to hide more than just the alternator wire?

whatever dude....fuck what it looks like under the hood...only people that care about that are ricer show car fucks

It is functional in that if I want to take the valve cover off, I don't have to disconnect that honking huge wire.

Just take it off the bracket....it will come off.

Oh yeah, because we remove our valve covers like once a week.

Come on, man. This is stupid. Find a new project already.

good luck soldering 4 gauge wire btw. it's not as simple as a pieces of 20 gauge.

In B4 huge glob of solder, fried wires, and possibly a short out.

use a butt connector. less resistance and less likely to vibrate apart like solder.


before the solder fanboys jump on me, when repairing airplanes they don't use solder for a reason… vibrations can cause the wires to come apart. butt connectors are also supposed to be stronger than the wires they are connecting! the only up side to solder… its pretty.

Uh
Less resistance how?

i believe it has something to do with the amount of contact stripped wire/ inside of connector. i learned all this when i made a custom wiring harness for my SR20 swap. all from certified aviation mechanic. all he uses is butt connectors.

... more because he was paid flat rate than anything. You'll never convince me a proper solder joint doesn't rape a proper crimp joint in resistance and durability.

I wish you two were still in touch so I could check his phantom sources lol.

:edit:
Reasons the aviation industry uses butt connectors:

In order:

Use shrink tubing.
Who cares.
Use a different flux....
Learn how to solder properly.

:edit:

I hope you sealed all your connectors to avoid them falling apart from oxidation. :P

oh still in contact. he has done about 5 SR swaps and has a RB25DET S14.5


how is trying to bond 2 different metals together a good connection?
like trying to weld aluminum with a standard mig and wire… doesn't bond on a molecular level. under the hood, I'm butt connectors all the way.

pros and cons. in my eyes butt connectors did the job best.

and yes, i heat shrinked my harness and reloomed all of it to fit just right.

...

Listen.
You're not going to agree with me because they've worked for you and that's fine. I think you're wrong.

I'm not the only one. Google solder vs. butt connector and you'll be hard pressed to find anyone voting on the latter. Butt connectors are quicker and require less work to do well, but they're still inferior.

I disagree, zumin.

I've had too much experience over the years with this and I can tell you one thing for certain, I've had more problems with crimp connectors than a good solder joint.

Crimp connectors are also very susceptible to vibrations. In my opinion, more so than a good solder job.

I don't know anything about airplanes, but with cars, what i said above has always been the case.

butt connectors blow for anything that matters, ex: airbag systems, never work always throw a light for high resistance.

For reg stuff they will work fine, but i feel solder is better as well. Most chose butt connectors because the general public cant solder and its faster.

Solder Then Heat Shrink is ATOMIC PROOF...

LOL that is unless it's exposed to high heat (like an EGT sensor wire) or where it requires a certain length to calculate resistance (like a wideband O2 wire).

Either way, anyone know what gauge wire is used for that alternator wire and if it has any special requirements for it like shielding etc...

in school they taught us that butt connectors were more efficient in current travel because electrons flow on the surface of a conductor, not through it, hence why multi stranded wire will allow more current than a solid wire. soldering takes all those strands and turns them into one = less surface area. also butt connectors are much easier to install in place (i.e. under dash or other cramped area) and shrinkwrap butt connectors are sent from god.:arms:

also, whats the problem with wanting to move a wire? the entire wiring harness on this platform is just in the way of everything. it seems like anything that makes your car look better is flamed for no reason here. most of the built guys have at least one thing painted or powdercoated and no blood is shed. for god sake superskater has bright green wheels! just chill

See I would somewhat disagree with that, I always thought the biggest risk with butt connectors is the longer term exposure and corrosion, and most likely a lot of that depends on the quality and grade connector you're using.
Yet I have to say that your argument about a stranded piece of wire being turned into a solid piece is kinda off. When you use a butt connector, I would think you would have less surface area contact as you're at that point limited to the contact between one end of the wire and the outer surface area of the exposed wire. Also given that crimping isn't exactly even across that strand either.

Now take a soldered wire done properly where the outer strands and even the inner strands are coated in the conductive solder and joined together.
I would think that it's much better than any crimp.

well i dont see corrosion or exposure being an issue with either connection method, given that a suitable heat shrink is used to finish.
also, some crimps allow the wire to be twisted together and the crimp installed on top, securing the connection and maintaining the surface area of individual strands. a properly soldered connection however does penetrate the entire wire and cover all strands making them effectively one, how else would it create such a secure connection?

i see it in a situational basis. if you have an area where the wire may be tugged on, then you should solder for strength. but if less resistance is needed, you should crimp.

I will agree.. the right application for the right job I guess.

the crank sensor is also in that bundle of wire that you are going to extend

Yeah I realize that as well.. it's funny I took a better look last night.
I think I would obviously keep that wire there.
Do you guys know if a crank position sensor wire is resistance sensitive?

and how did u removed that wire ??

ckp is digital, so no

I haven't done anything yet..LOL
I'm still just in discussion and doing some research.


Right... is the CKP like the ones I've seen in FSDE (Protege) engines where it's a magnet or at least a sensor that detects a magnet signal?

i dont know the specifics on the mzr but it should be similar

Not sure if you were planning to cut OEM wire an solder in or buttconnect a new piece in for length, but if I were doing this Id just make a whole new wire thats longer.

How were you planning to re-route it? From looking at my car the best option would be to run it beneath the IM. The only other option would run it past the turbo.

Not sure I get why you are doing this though as your sig states you have a TMIC which would essentially hide this wire anyways, FMIC and I might get it since the area would be quite visible.

Even with a TMIC, this wire is still visible.

Call it petty esthetics, call it a lot of work for little gain.
I am just looking at this thinking: "What the hell was Mazda thinking?"

It sticks out like a sore thumb.