rough idle, full lean, no cel

[btstarcher]

Agreed, might just be MAF calibration is way off. Especially at idle, but at WOT you're running pretty lean too.

[Swinger13]

boost leak test and compression test

GOGOGO

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Its a cobb intake. Runing a cobb ots map. I don't currently have hpfp internals since they swapped in a new oem fuel pump. Running a OTS map with streetunit tmic. i believe the map says it should be matched with a hpfp upgrade. Is a vacuum leak test the same as a boost leak test? i will go out and compression test when i get a chance though.

[btstarcher]

I don't think it's compression, but a boost leak test might help. There's a how-to here somewhere. But I would work on calibrating the MAF as well, if you don't see a leak. Since you're running lean, I think a leak would be found somewhere between the MAF housing and the turbo, so check all those clamps, especially where the TIP attaches to the turbo.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Ill double check all the piping and clamps. Ill probably tru cleaning the maf before i jump into trying to recalibrate it. If a vac smoke test is the same as a boost leak test then i don't believe there is a leak. Someone else commented on something with the TPS would that need recalibrating as well perhaps?

[btstarcher]

I don't think you can calibrate the TPS but you can alter the tables in ATR just like you can the MAF. I'm not sure what you did with the "smoke test," but it doesn't sound like the same thing; with the boost leak test you connect an air compressor to the intake in place of the air filter and fill the intake with compressed air. Then spray soapy water around all the clamps and see if any bubbles form.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

I believe they compressed smoke into the brake boost line and removed the filter and blocked it off. Dealership did the smoke test, not me.

[btstarcher]

LOL well that didn't really check anything except the intake manifold and the cold pipe connections, possibly the hot side boost tube. Nothing before the turbo though, where the leak probably is.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

I went ahead and removed everything from the intake to the turbo and reassembled it all and visually inspected it all and found no signs of damage or anything that could cause a leak. Put it all back together and its still the same. The only other two things i could think would leak would be the JBR IM gasket or the whole PCV assembly i replaced. Ill be ordering a oem gasket and was wondering if it would be okay to use a little bit of sealant on the PCV black box. Also forgot to use any kind of thread sealant for the EGR tube but going to get teflon tape for that as well. Could it be the IM gasket is leaking on me or would that cause a different A/F ratio problem?

I'm running out of options here as i still believe this is a vac leak of some sort somewhere. Just cleaned the MAF and letting it dry before reinstalling. Just trying to eliminate the easy stuff before i go and tackle the big things. Any other input would be helpful. Thanks for all the help so far.

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL I went ahead and removed everything from the intake to the turbo and reassembled it all and visually inspected it all and found no signs of damage or anything that could cause a leak. Put it all back together and its still the same. The only other two things i could think would leak would be the JBR IM gasket or the whole PCV assembly i replaced. Ill be ordering a oem gasket and was wondering if it would be okay to use a little bit of sealant on the PCV black box. Also forgot to use any kind of thread sealant for the EGR tube but going to get teflon tape for that as well. Could it be the IM gasket is leaking on me or would that cause a different A/F ratio problem? I'm running out of options here as i still believe this is a vac leak of some sort somewhere. Just cleaned the MAF and letting it dry before reinstalling. Just trying to eliminate the easy stuff before i go and tackle the big things. Any other input would be helpful. Thanks for all the help so far.

So what is the issue exactly? Is it the same as the beginning? Or is it different now?

If you're leaking at the intake manifold yeah, you'd have very bad afrs lol. But unless you forgot the tig or maybe didn't torque it on right, I wouldn't suspect that. Maybe a crack in the manifold, but that should show in a boost leak test. What about your occ? Are your check valves good? As for the pcv. I want to say I put silicone on mine when I built the block, but don't remember lol.

tapatalkin

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by btstarcher I don't think it's compression, but a boost leak test might help. There's a how-to here somewhere. But I would work on calibrating the MAF as well, if you don't see a leak. Since you're running lean, I think a leak would be found somewhere between the MAF housing and the turbo, so check all those clamps, especially where the TIP attaches to the turbo.

Doing these tests will tell you a lot; if not, everything you need to know. You can also check the plugs too while doing a comp test.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

I recently installed new plugs but i will get on to doing a compression test real soon. My OCC is no longer installed. I'm using the stock PCV to intake hose. I wish i could say with confidence that the dealership reinstalled my manifold with correct torque sequence and within spec but the last 2 out of 3 times i picked up my car i had my intake hanging loose and my intercooler piping hanging loose the second time. Big boost leak both times obviously. The second time with the intercooler hanging off i had them do a smoke test to find the leak but the funny thing is no smoke was coming out through the hose. I was hitting 4psi with it hanging loose, removed intercooler and put on the hose correctly and here Iam now. I'm doubting the mechanic installed the manifold with the spacer at the lower bolt. If that's I'm assuming that could have cracked it or could it be something simple as it not lining up correctly cause of the difference of thickness?

I'm getting 14.5-14.8 afr while driving on the highway. If i engine brake my boost gauge hits -10.2 psi but at idle it sits around -8.5psi. It builds quickly when just giving minimum amount of throttle. When id drive id try to keep boost as low as possible but now i have trouble just keeping it in vacuum most times. Sadly as the week is beginning my free hours are very minimal. I was hoping to just spend the insane amount of money they were charging and have my problems over with but that's not the case.

[Lacey28]

You said u removed the intake mani? Did u remove the black box? There is a rubber grommet that seals the box to the mani so it doesnt leak

[cthomp]

I have seen stuck purge solenoids cause similar issues with Afr. Monitor your stft when they are high pop your fuel cap and see if they drop. If so replace it

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Rubber grommet for the black box on top of im is good. I went ahead and pulled the im and noticed quite a bit of oil all around the inside of the manifold. I inspected the valves and besides the fact that they were all dirty, cylinder number 4 (closest to the intake side) was really gunked up. not dry soot like the other cylinders. It was wet and thick gunk. I checked the intake, tih, and intercooler and they were all dry.

Could this be because the new PCV and cleaned egr tube is doing its job now? Before that i had my occ for 4k miles and had virtually no fluid in it. Gonna inspect my im for cracks but the only thing i noticed was the bolt closest to cylinder 4 under the runner was not tightened at all.

Was also missing my gasket to the egr tube with the 2 bolts and the spacer for the lower bolt that i had when i installed with the thermal gasket. Im going back to stock gasket just to see if that'll make a difference. Gonna put teflon tape onto the threads of the egr tube. Just really need this fixed. Id like to do the boost leak test but i don't have a compressor. Ive read people doing it with a bike pump and that's probably what ill have to do.

[btstarcher]

EGR dumps into cylinder 4. Delete EGR.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Would that effect my cold start ups or anything? Thats why I didnt do the coolant bypass for the tb. Would the oil catch can help this at all? I also noticed that on cold start ups the afr are good at 14.7 is that cause its dumping more fue .in open loop?

[btstarcher]

All it would do is prevent shit from the EGR from getting into the intake.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Quick update: When ahead and took everything apart. Went back to OEM TB and IM gasket, cleaned my IM and MAP sensor, installed JBR EGR block off kit, Installed SURE boost tubes, Disabled P0401, replaced purge solenoid valve and cleaned hose, reinstalled OCC, ran compression test. Cylinder 1: 182 2: 176 3:165 4:180

As of right now it's better but not perfect. Idle AFR is a fluctuating 14.5-14.9. Vacuum at idle is around 9.5 which i believe is just a tab bit off. When im coming to a stop in neutral the AFR could be anywhere from 15-16 but will settle back down after a second or two. Buying a boost leak tester but gotta figure out a way to use it because i don't have a air compressor. Should i be worried about the numbers on my compression test? 3 has a pretty big dip even though 4 has the cruddy valves.

Thanks for all the help i received so far. I just wish i hadn't spent the money to have a dealer replace my fuel pump and injector. Could of done that myself if i had the time. I had autotech internals in my old fuel pump, would the be garbage now or would anyone be interested in them?

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Quick update: When ahead and took everything apart. Went back to OEM TB and IM gasket, cleaned my IM and MAP sensor, installed JBR EGR block off kit, Installed SURE boost tubes, Disabled P0401, replaced purge solenoid valve and cleaned hose, reinstalled OCC, ran compression test. Cylinder 1: 182 2: 176 3:165 4:180 As of right now it's better but not perfect. Idle AFR is a fluctuating 14.5-14.9. Vacuum at idle is around 9.5 which i believe is just a tab bit off. When im coming to a stop in neutral the AFR could be anywhere from 15-16 but will settle back down after a second or two. Buying a boost leak tester but gotta figure out a way to use it because i don't have a air compressor. Should i be worried about the numbers on my compression test? 3 has a pretty big dip even though 4 has the cruddy valves. Thanks for all the help i received so far. I just wish i hadn't spent the money to have a dealer replace my fuel pump and injector. Could of done that myself if i had the time. I had autotech internals in my old fuel pump, would the be garbage now or would anyone be interested in them?

They can be reused. Post in the for sale and they'll resale quick. Or swap em back in lol.


tapatalkin

[mr.speedy3]

What's your status man? I'm swapping in a new harness this weekend... Lol

tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Just a fyi for anyone gettig the cpe fuel pump, it clicks pretty loud. I was wondering what the hell this new noise was when I forst started it up. Ao far I got new thicker clamps and boost tubes along with the xpe pump. Runs slightly better but I swear theres still a small leak somewhere. Idle afr wont sit still, from 14.3-14.9. Better it runs rich than lean though.

[radbrad]

I'm having a similar issue. Funny thing, it happened after I took apart my vented occ, cleaned everything, put it back together. And then the next day I tried to start it and I would have lean idle AFRs, and they crept up to 20-22 ish.

One thing that is different is a horrendous squeal that I've never heard before.

Tonight I am pulling the batt, and intake to inspect the turbo. Check the spark plugs, and recheck all my occ hoses, check valves, etc.

Also, no cel

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by radbrad I'm having a similar issue. Funny thing, it happened after I took apart my vented occ, cleaned everything, put it back together. And then the next day I tried to start it and I would have lean idle AFRs, and they crept up to 20-22 ish. One thing that is different is a horrendous squeal that I've never heard before. Tonight I am pulling the batt, and intake to inspect the turbo. Check the spark plugs, and recheck all my occ hoses, check valves, etc. Also, no cel

That makes.. 3 of us that I can find with this issue lol.... I've tried so much and still trying more.. Next is injector harness, if not, ecu.

tapatalkin

[radbrad]

Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 That makes.. 3 of us that I can find with this issue lol.... I've tried so much and still trying more.. Next is injector harness, if not, ecu. tapatalkin

I've read through your thread many times trying to get ideas. But your idle AFRs seem to be okay, and your wot logs look bad.

I have not taken my car on the road yet being I have, what sounds like, a metal on metal squeal/whistle. It sounds extremely bad. Compressor blades making contact with compressor housing? I'm not convinced the turbo has shit the bed, but I'll be checking that tomorrow.

Tonight I took the intake manifold off and found a hose clamp that rubbed a wire exposed. I'm going to repair the wire and go from there. I also found a pin hole in another hose that I replaced. I'm hoping that is where the whistle is coming from.

This is the first issue I've had with no cel, so it's hard to pinpoint the issue. I know you know this @mr.speedy3;

I'll be soldering the suspect wire and heat wrap it tomorrow night and put it back together.

I'll post my results tomorrow or Monday.

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by radbrad I've read through your thread many times trying to get ideas. But your idle AFRs seem to be okay, and your wot logs look bad. I have not taken my car on the road yet being I have, what sounds like, a metal on metal squeal/whistle. It sounds extremely bad. Compressor blades making contact with compressor housing? I'm not convinced the turbo has shit the bed, but I'll be checking that tomorrow. Tonight I took the intake manifold off and found a hose clamp that rubbed a wire exposed. I'm going to repair the wire and go from there. I also found a pin hole in another hose that I replaced. I'm hoping that is where the whistle is coming from. This is the first issue I've had with no cel, so it's hard to pinpoint the issue. I know you know this @mr.speedy3; I'll be soldering the suspect wire and heat wrap it tomorrow night and put it back together. I'll post my results tomorrow or Monday.

If it runs past that, make your own thread so we don't thread jack this one lol.

I've removed my intake manifold 3 times since this issue happened. 3rd time being this morning.. Lol.


tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Also when i was checking for leaks i noticed my recirc hose was looking a bit dry rotted so i went ahead and ordered a new one and when i went to remove the old hose it pulled the metal sleeve right out of the cobb tip i had. I tried and tried to remove the sleeve but it just got damaged and I ended up ordering a CS stage 2 tip and intake. Installed it all up but still have a mystery leak. So far though i hate this product.... Its so quiet compared to the cobb tip. I was use to being able to hear the turbo at -2psi. Now i can hardly hear it at all. Hate to be the ricer for sound but it was great hearing that loud sucking.

I would like to buy a different intake+tip in the future but was wondering if anyone had opinions on one as loud as the cobb combo? I prefer the aluminum tip with a oem positioned bracket but am open to suggestions. My cobb tip got ruffed up in the engine bay with no bracket to hold it. I would like to sell my old autotech internals as well as what i can salvage from the cobb intake+tip but wheres the for sale section? All i can find is the vendors for sale section.

[radbrad]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Also when i was checking for leaks i noticed my recirc hose was looking a bit dry rotted so i went ahead and ordered a new one and when i went to remove the old hose it pulled the metal sleeve right out of the cobb tip i had. I tried and tried to remove the sleeve but it just got damaged and I ended up ordering a CS stage 2 tip and intake. Installed it all up but still have a mystery leak. So far though i hate this product.... Its so quiet compared to the cobb tip. I was use to being able to hear the turbo at -2psi. Now i can hardly hear it at all. Hate to be the ricer for sound but it was great hearing that loud sucking. I would like to buy a different intake+tip in the future but was wondering if anyone had opinions on one as loud as the cobb combo? I prefer the aluminum tip with a oem positioned bracket but am open to suggestions. My cobb tip got ruffed up in the engine bay with no bracket to hold it. I would like to sell my old autotech internals as well as what i can salvage from the cobb intake+tip but wheres the for sale section? All i can find is the vendors for sale section.

I have a HTP aluminum tip mated with a Cobb sf intake. I sounds like the turbo is spooling while still in vacuum. Maybe the HTP is what you are looking for.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by radbrad I have a HTP aluminum tip mated with a Cobb sf intake. I sounds like the turbo is spooling while still in vacuum. Maybe the HTP is what you are looking for.

I was looking at the 3in HTP but not fond of the idea of having to get a smaller battery box. Also looked into the SURE bigmouth even though SURE doesnt have the best rep around here. I'am defiantly looking for something more vocal. The CS is dead quiet. Sucks i gotta have 150 post to sell stuff. I have my cobb tip+intake, autotech internals, and maybe a brand new CS intake+tip for sale if i decide on going a different route.

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL I was looking at the 3in HTP but not fond of the idea of having to get a smaller battery box. Also looked into the SURE bigmouth even though SURE doesnt have the best rep around here. I'am defiantly looking for something more vocal. The CS is dead quiet. Sucks i gotta have 150 post to sell stuff. I have my cobb tip+intake, autotech internals, and maybe a brand new CS intake+tip for sale if i decide on going a different route.

Are you VIP? Can't tell on the phone. But you can't Run a 3" htp with the stock battery box. I did.

tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 Are you VIP? Can't tell on the phone. But you can't Run a 3" htp with the stock battery box. I did. tapatalkin

I just became a VIP but its still a 150 post requirement to sell. I can buy though, lol. Ill probably go with a sure bigmouth and the aeros ID300 with a JBR battery box. I just miss the sound of the turbo sucking like a bat out of hell. Still gotta figure out my lean issues though. In a 17psi map I'm lucky to hit 15psi. Stuck at 14psi and runs at about 13 afr at wot.

Part throttle is good so i can continue to make it to work and probably wont mess with it too much more till it starts warming up again.

[radbrad]

I would recommend that you fix your issue before swapping parts. Unless your current parts are fubar'd.

Look into the HTP tips and intakes. They are nice, the customer service it top notch. Or for that matter, just look at the forum vendors and support the companies that support the platform.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by radbrad I would recommend that you fix your issue before swapping parts. Unless your current parts are fubar'd. Look into the HTP tips and intakes. They are nice, the customer service it top notch. Or for that matter, just look at the forum vendors and support the companies that support the platform.

I do plan on fixing my issues. I die a little when merging onto the highway and not hearing the sound I'm use to. I still have plenty of time till i end up swapping. Wont be till next year till i move onto gaining power. Just would like it to run perfectly before anything.

[mr.speedy3]

The Sure intake would work, an intake is an intake. But I'd read the stay away from sure post that was made and see if any failures were noted. Look around the forsale section, intakes have a terrible resale value lol. You can usually find a decent one for a good price.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Thats thethread I had read that worried me about SURE. Id probably go HTP jut cause the TIP has a bracket. A bit of a pain to also have to commit to a battery box and smalled battery.

[radbrad]

The HTP 3.5" TIP does not have a mounting bracket. It is basically help up by the coupler to the turbo. Also you will need to remove the cover of the ecu and drill out the holes of the batt box to move it closer to the drivers side.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

I was talkig about the 3in tip. 3.5 is overkill on the k04.

[btstarcher]

Stay away from Sure.

[rfinkle2]

It is the plate that you replaced the stock one with.

(i.e. the pcv plate is leaking)

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Stay away from Sure.

Is SURE honestly that bad? They hadnt fixed the problems by now? I noticed the HTP 3.0 intake is only a ID of 2.87. Was hopinh for a full 3in ID.

I also replaced the stock pcv plate with a stock one. Would that really be the leak? Is so I'm ready to shoot myself. Really didn't want to pull the IM off again. I have a boost leak tester on the way so ill be able to hopefully pin point the leak with a bike pump cause i don't have a air compressor.