rough idle, full lean, no cel

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Is SURE honestly that bad? They hadnt fixed the problems by now? I noticed the HTP 3.0 intake is only a ID of 2.87. Was hopinh for a full 3in ID. I also replaced the stock pcv plate with a stock one. Would that really be the leak? Is so I'm ready to shoot myself. Really didn't want to pull the IM off again. I have a boost leak tester on the way so ill be able to hopefully pin point the leak with a bike pump cause i don't have a air compressor.

Don't shoot yourself please.

You'll get it with a leak tester.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 Don't shoot yourself please. You'll get it with a leak tester.

Can I ask how youre so sure about that being the leak?

[btstarcher]

@Raider; is Sure really that bad? LOL

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Can I ask how youre so sure about that being the leak?

If you replaced that pcv box with a stocker, I cannot be sure.

What does the remainder of the fuel curve look like? The remainder of your trims?

Sure sucks btw.

Some of their parts are fine, just don't use any that are suspension or fuel related and don't count on any of their instructions being correct.

Their wiper plug and lanyards are no joke.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 If you replaced that pcv box with a stocker, I cannot be sure. What does the remainder of the fuel curve look like? The remainder of your trims? Sure sucks btw. Some of their parts are fine, just don't use any that are suspension or fuel related and don't count on any of their instructions being correct. Their wiper plug and lanyards are no joke.

Ill take some logs and post them up soon.

I already planned on staying away from SURE's major components. Was thinking a simple intake could be safe aside from the glue somehow being stuck inside the vacuum breather.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Ill take some logs and post them up soon. I already planned on staying away from SURE's major components. Was thinking a simple intake could be safe aside from the glue somehow being stuck inside the vacuum breather.

Don't get me wrong, the marketing, the packaging and the initial look of the parts is all very nice.. Just, imo, they pay more attn: to cosmetics than engineering and the owner is a total douchehat.

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Is SURE honestly that bad? They hadnt fixed the problems by now? I noticed the HTP 3.0 intake is only a ID of 2.87. Was hopinh for a full 3in ID. I also replaced the stock pcv plate with a stock one. Would that really be the leak? Is so I'm ready to shoot myself. Really didn't want to pull the IM off again. I have a boost leak tester on the way so ill be able to hopefully pin point the leak with a bike pump cause i don't have a air compressor.

Go read the sure fail thread and you decide if they are that bad...

Did you silicone the PCV plate?

[btstarcher]

Whether they're bad or not is irrelevant; the fact that a company would hang its customers out to dry as bad as they did should be enough for anyone here not to do business with them.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

I did read the fail thread and figured as long as i check over the intake thoroughly i should be safe. Wouldnt exactly trust a suspension or major engine part though.

I did not silicone the PCV plate. I slightly oiled the seal and crisscrossed the bolts as i tightened them.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Lets say it turns out the PCV plate is the problem. Does anyone have any opinions on this block off plate? Or another brand? I dont want to run more than one catch can.

Ford Duratec & Mazda MZR PCV Block-Off Plate

I would like the pcv being brass rather than a cheap plastic. I read another thread talking about how it doesnt need the bafflinr and that its somehow in the highest position possible. Anyone here run one of these things?

[radbrad]

I think some have used that one, but I believe most people will use this plate:

http://www.edgeautosport.com/manufac...focus-st-2013/

This one was developed by one of own mazdaspeed drivers and forum members. You can plug one of the holes, and if you ever need to add a second can, you have the ability.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by radbrad I think some have used that one, but I believe most people will use this plate: PERM Tuning PCV Plate Mazdaspeed 3 Mazdaspeed 6 2006 - 2013 This one was developed by one of own mazdaspeed drivers and forum members. You can plug one of the holes, and if you ever need to add a second can, you have the ability.

Thats the other one I was looking at but for some reason my mind didnt think about plugging one of the ports and just running it like a normal pcv. Ill keep that one in mind if my boost leak teat shows thats where my leak is coming from.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by radbrad I think some have used that one, but I believe most people will use this plate: PERM Tuning PCV Plate Mazdaspeed 3 Mazdaspeed 6 2006 - 2013 This one was developed by one of own mazdaspeed drivers and forum members. You can plug one of the holes, and if you ever need to add a second can, you have the ability.

I dont believe that pcv block off plate has an actual pcv valve. Would it be okay just running a check valve with the MD occ kit?

[mr.speedy3]

I've never seen that plate... I would have preferred it to stock plastic but I run a dual catch can setup. Did you not check the pcv valve when you had it out?

tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

I did check the pcv but I noticed I was able to slightly blow air one way and not at all through the other way. I though it was only suppose to be a one way valve but it was brand new ao I stuck it on amyways. Recently though I had a second injector go out on me so im just saying screw it and replacing the 3 that are still on from the factory.

Im also going with the CPE seals and was curious about how the studs that are included go on in place of the T40 torx bolts.

Also just want to get the whole pcv block off plate routing right. I only want to run one catch can and need to know if you have to run a inline pcv after the block off plate or am I safe with a check valve on the catch can line?

This car sure is more expensive than my cheap honda. Lol.

[mr.speedy3]

More expensive because not all Japanese sushi parts lol.

I run the pcv and check valve... Think of it as double protection lol. Make sure you get a quality, low crack pressure check valve for the occ, a local melted a cheap check valve. You can buy a decent check valve from Matt Damond, or go to ace and assemble your own.

Do you have replacement injectors? I have a spare set I could sell for a good price. As for the studs, definitely do it.

These were cleaned with meth and work just fine. I used them for testing.
uploadfromtaptalk1414893056202.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1414893039628.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1414893024616.jpg

And for eye candy... Seen this guy today
uploadfromtaptalk1414893079029.jpg

tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 More expensive because not all Japanese sushi parts lol. I run the pcv and check valve... Think of it as double protection lol. Make sure you get a quality, low crack pressure check valve for the occ, a local melted a cheap check valve. You can buy a decent check valve from Matt Damond, or go to ace and assemble your own. Do you have replacement injectors? I have a spare set I could sell for a good price. As for the studs, definitely do it. These were cleaned with meth and work just fine. I used them for testing. Attachment 180458 Attachment 180457 Attachment 180456 And for eye candy... Seen this guy today Attachment 180459 tapatalkin

I was going to use a MD catch can that uses the check valve on the IM side. Would that alone be safe? This is my daily and would love for it to make it through winter without having to take it apart all the time.

I don't have injectors yet. Been putting off ordering them from an online dealership. I know i need to sooner rather than later. I would love to purchase those injectors but a part of me is worried that used ones would fail soon as well but the cheap ass in me is saying to go that route. Decisions, decisions...

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL I was going to use a MD catch can that uses the check valve on the IM side. Would that alone be safe? This is my daily and would love for it to make it through winter without having to take it apart all the time. I don't have injectors yet. Been putting off ordering them from an online dealership. I know i need to sooner rather than later. I would love to purchase those injectors but a part of me is worried that used ones would fail soon as well but the cheap ass in me is saying to go that route. Decisions, decisions...

Ask MD about the check valve lol

As for injectors, they have 30k on em from a pu. If that helps any lol

Also say you buy my injectors, you can have them cleaned for $100 at 2k psi. That'll basically make them new. That'd still be 1/4 the price of new lol
tapatalkin

[mr.speedy3]

Gaskets, FYI.

uploadfromtaptalk1414941713414.jpg

tapatalkin

[mr.speedy3]

Woops, disregard, wrong thread.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Well, got the injectors cleaned and installed. Cpe seals also and replaced all the o rings and everyhing. Get it all bundled and no start... I swear I can never win with this car. I crank it and it makes a squealing sound and then after I stop cranking it makes a clicking sound. Inj pulse width is about 10-11 ms and hpfp psi is in he 1800s.

I wish it'd atleast start and run to throw a cel to give me a clue.

[mr.speedy3]

Double check you reconnected everything. And that you didn't nudge the ground on the starter (white clip points up towards the bottom of the intake Mani).

Is it clicking?
Or just absolutely nothing?


tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

I pulled my plugs abd they had quiet a bit of carbon on them so I replaced them but still no start. It'll just keep on cranking when trying to start. I have my accessport reading fuel injection amount and its reading 15-16 mg/cyl. I checked the ground on the starter as best i could. Im figuring the clicking was from my battery being low. I tried jump starting it but still just cranks away with no start.

Really at a loss here. Last time I took it to a dealer I got royally fucked and the car still had problems so Im having trouble with the idea of taking it somewhere again.

[Scare Dem]

Clicking does mean a weak battery and I know you tried jumping it, but can you put it on a charger?

Trickle charge it over night and see if that helps.

I had starting issues a month ago, but when I turned my key there was NOTHING. I just wiggled the wires on both sides of the starter and it's been fine ever since.

Good luck man.

[TRQ STEER FTL]

That's what i had to do. Reach under the IM and use my hands as eyes and wiggle everything that i could feel was connected to the starter. Nothing though.

Only CEL I'm getting is ABS U2023.

I need fuel, compression, and spark to start. I just changed the plugs so I'm sure that's good Last i did a compression check everything was gravy. Fuel is the only thing I'm curious about. The HPFP seems good. Anyone wanna check their AP to see the fuel injection amount per cylinder on start up?

Also this car sure is a pain in the ass, lol.

[btstarcher]

Ballast resistor maybe?

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Honestly I've never even heard of a ballast resistor. Lol. It was starting before i replaced the injectors. Ran like shit but it did run.

[btstarcher]

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post2569198 The thread references another thread with similar issues; not sure if it's applicable to your case but worth a try.

[mr.speedy3]

You can also get a fuel pressure tester for the itfp to ensure the itfp isn't dead. Is your hpfp reading 400 or so with the key on?

tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Hpfp is reading 1800s with key on.

Anyone know of a good auto ahop in the cleveland area? Ive got no more time to figure it out myself and need this car back already.

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Hpfp is reading 1800s with key on. Anyone know of a good auto ahop in the cleveland area? Ive got no more time to figure it out myself and need this car back already.

Have you joined your local Nator yet?

tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Its been all worked put thanks to a local guys help. Wiring harness issues for all. Thabks for all the help though. Great community here!

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by TRQ STEER FTL Its been all worked put thanks to a local guys help. Wiring harness issues for all. Thabks for all the help though. Great community here!

Where exactly? Was it the intake rubbing the ecu harness?

tapatalkin

[TRQ STEER FTL]

Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 Where exactly? Was it the intake rubbing the ecu harness? tapatalkin

No but that was an issue when i first took it to the dealership. Had it "fixed" and then had problems with plug pins that connected to the injector harness and had corrosion in the fuse box.

You would think the dealership would have noticed some of these things but that's why i will go back and will warn anyone who even thinks about going that way.