Rumbling noise and shaking after wot in 4 gear
 

Monday i wot the car 3 times to pass a series of car and after the second time, i noticed a noise like if i was riding on a very bas road. During the third pass, i was sure it was comming from my car...

I'm afraid it could be a broken tranny gear or bearing?

The sound and rumble doesn't appear at low speed or disapear as soon as i remove any load on the drive line (release gaz)

It seem worst in 5 or 6 gear but i didn't try to rev it above 3000 rpm, i had a 3km remaining to reach home so i did it gently at a 40-50mph speed. Each time i put some load, it started to make it.

The car is running a GT2871R at 23PSI with 25-26 peaks (Summer tune used in winter)
I have upgraded 88 duro passenger and tranny mounts
Stock bloc and axles...

I confirmed that their was no knock during the rumble with Torque APP and i don't ear the crank tikling sound of a bad rod bearing when making a light load in first gear.

I checked motor mounts yesterday and when i try to go forward or reverse in first gear while holding brakes, the motor won't move much so i think it isn't my mounts.

What about a drive axle? but in 4 gear, the torque isn't hard on it because of the gear ratio even if the engine crank make a lot of torque. I'M not pulling hard in low gear and not making hard lunch with it...

After installing mounts i was earing a bearing noise from the tranny when clutch is released in neutral but i heard other cars making the same noise with hard mount. Could it be a clutch or tranny bearing issue that just finally went out ?

My other option is the tranny itself or diff...

Is there some tests i should do to eliminate some possible cause and make sure is in the tranny before i remove it from the car?
Tomorrow, i will check both drive axle...but to check the tranny, i'm out of idea without looking inside...

If i have to go there, i will be looking for an how to for the best and easiest way to remove the tranny and best parts to rebuild it if the case is in good shape

I'd put it up on stands in your garage and try to pinpoint it. Visually and the likes.

Look for a boost leak too....

Have anyone else around to help?

it definitely not a boost leak when you ear and feel a rumble in the car and steering wheel. And again, it's only appear at speed and as soon has you create some tiny load to the drive line...

I was planning to lift it in the garage, maybe tonight, and run it in the air, while trying different gears and check where it comes from. I'm just not sure if the wheel in the air wouldn't affect the test...(VS when the car is sit on the suspension and axles are almost strait with the tranny and wheel hub

It's worth a try without load on the motor.

busted motor mount or axle.... only 2 things I could think of off the top of my head...

lifted it yesterday

the 2 mounts easily reachable are fine. Axle seems ok too, no loose and not frozen at an angle.

When running the car on the lift, i can hear a bad whinning noise from the tranny and above 40mph it start shaking and the noise is way louder. It seem to comes from the Differential area of the tranny :(

i flushed the oil to check and i'm not sure of the results...It looks bad but their is no magnet on the plug so i dont know if it is normal to see grey metalic in that oil..
I will have to remove it to inspect inside and i hope that it is the shaft bearing not the diff. to be shut...

See the pics:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps83fb1b7f.jpg

All black/grey is magnetic metal picked up quickly with a magnet on the oil bucket


http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...psc8ac80ae.jpg

oil at rest

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...psf170fd10.jpg

oil just after i picked up the metal in it

Has the trans fluid been changed before this? It would be normal to see some metal in fluid, especially if it had not been changed before. You don't want to see large pieces or fluid FULL of metal shavings. If the diff is whining, it could be the differential. It could also be an axle. Check all of the motor mount bolts.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/11/ymynuru9.jpg
This is what it'll look like if you ate a gear.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

not changed seen day 0 and it is now 70k miles. I was just ready to change it before it broke (already bought the oil) ...

I assume i should see brass in the oil but their is also magnetic some that is either comming from gears/bearings or diff ?
If you check on my finger, you could see a larger one right in the middle that look like a metal chip...

I carafully checked RMM mounts with a pry bar and it is very solid and also the passenger mount and nothing bad in that area either.

Sunday, i will remove axles to make sure they aren't stuck at an angle and create the vibration but with the noise it really seem to comes from inside the tranny case.

Unfortunatelly i didn't listen to it before to see if the noise was still there because of the 88 duro mounts...Anyway if the axles arent bad, it is for sure inside even if it is a PITA to remove just to check...
Could i run the tranny and diff without axles? (If i put back some oil and tape axles hole of course) this way i will be sure that the tranny is bad before removing it?


If it is just the bearing I will rebuild it but if it is the diff i expect it would cost much!!! I will probably consider another used tranny ...
I know second gen have faster gear ratio but is it bolt on ? (I expect it to be)

I checked gear ratio of MS6 also and it seem to be the same as ms3 gen1 but i wonder if their is a special casing for bolting the T-case and a special differencial VS my MS3 tranny?
I ask myself because i have seen one for sale very cheap with a 4e gear synchros shut. If it use the same diff, i may buy it and swap my synchros in it or use good parts out of both with new bearings and seals ?
My tranny didn't had any synchros issue since that

Possibly destroyed the TOB?

TOB ?

Tits of Batman


I kid... throw out bearing.

Does it sound the same as it ever did when not in gear and the clutch isn't in?

curiously, since i put the harder mount, i hear the sound of a TOB but only with clutch released in neutral, as soon as a push the pedal a little bit, the sound was going away.

I forget to check if it was still doing this...

It could be something bad with the TOB or the PP...i will need to remove the tranny to see it

humm finally, i found it....flywheel is so loose that it bounce side to side and up/down...the TOB is shot but the smal bearing inside the crank to support the input shaft is completly destroyed and the shaft was just supported by the bearing case...It looks like someone removed the tranny and put it back while scrathing the crank bearing...and i drove 60 000miles like this...or the bearing just fall apart by too much use...

So i learned that a dualmass flywheel isn't reparable and very expensive so what about solid FW like fidenza and ACT ? i'm afraid to lose some ease of starting with a lightweight but is there solid FW that isn't made in aluminium ?

My other problem, is to open the tranny. With the way i look at bearings, i'm sure the input shaft bearing is worn out. I tried to open it without removing the ball spring and now it is stuck half open...i cannot close it back or completly open it. Do someone have any idea ?

Here is a small video of my FW:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps51c6c170.jpg

MVI_2925_zps824ed47e.mp4 Video by Jeff23spl | Photobucket

Flywheel Dual Mass Video by Jeff23spl | Photobucket

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps51c6c170.jpg

just an update after loaded some pictures

here is the grinding noise and metal in the oil source

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps94cbb2f3.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps0b8af667.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps5ed080b2.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps9fd2fe09.jpg

It is funny to see how quiet it is now :) it didn't feel like a stock car anymore...maybe i should try to but back the harder tranny mount and see if it is acceptable this time.